A somewhat complicated question regarding "The Perfect Temperature" (CO2 MITES, ETC)

Hello all.

Sorry to double post this, I made a post in Newbie Central and I just chose to put it there because I am pretty new to this (2 simultaneous grows that are my "first"). I didn't get an answer, but I kind of think it's a somewhat advanced question really, certainly not a bare-bones basic question that's for sure. Unless I'm just over-thinking it way too much, I think it's a great question too. One that after days of searching I haven't been able to find addressed anywhere. I was hoping it would maybe be seen more, and by more advanced growers, in this forum.

What IS the perfect temperature, TAKING INTO ACCOUNT both the optimal supplementation of CO2, WHEN trying to prevent and/or at least slow down spider mites?

From what I understand, 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit (something like 26-29 Celsius I think?) is called the ideal temperature when supplying optimal levels of CO2. But does that temperature play just the same CO2 or not for spider mites?

My current lights-on temperatures are in the 79-84 F range, and I've got a mite problem. It's pretty late in flower too, to where I'm thinking I want to control them the best I can through temperature and humidity and some vacuuming and other manual methods, and get through this grow and maybe bug bomb or something afterward.

If I were to go forward with the installation of an air conditioner and and maintain my target temperature somewhere closer to 70 with lights on, would that end up defeating some of the purpose of supplying CO2?

when dealing with the devil (spider mites) nothing is easy.. temp and humidity in the future will help prevent mites. temp around 76 and humidity around 50-60 works good for me. i even lower my humidity down to 35 the last several weeks to promote more resin production.. lots of fans help also to prevent, but best product ever is at home depot called "ORGANICIDE" if you use it properly you will never! get mites.. granted your a clean person.

as far as CO2 is concerned that is debatable that it even makes a difference in the bloom phaze. maybe the first few weeks when it is forming flower nodes but after that save your money

I can vouch for what reggaerican said about Organocide- food safe and effective. You can drench the plants and they have no issues with it.

Awesome, I'll have to give that a try for sure. Does it alter the taste or anything? Er, I'd have to guess that'd be a priority for something food-safe. Awesome, definitely gonna try it.

I have done a side by side comparison (I used it on my outdoor grow, but not my indoor) and there is not a taste left over. I stopped spraying about 14 days before harvest, and at that point I only applied once every two weeks. The bottle recommends 10 days, but I figure a couple extra wouldn't hurt.

it can efect the taist if used in late bloom cause it is a fish oil based product. best not to use the last 2 weeks as home grown said but used weekly as directed on plants and a double strength all around room will get rid of all mites and mold issues as wll as other indoor pests

Spider mites flourish in hot, dry conditions. If you have a hot, dry room and no air movement, you WILL get mites. As far as CO2 is concerned, unless you have already setup your room properly for CO2 enrichment, don't waste money on it now thinking you will control mites... you won't. They are def tough little buggers and it takes an almost toxic level of CO2 to try and kill them- on order of >10,000 ppm, which is also not good for you, either. Your best bet at this point is prune leaves that are heavy with them and spray with organic/food safe sprays. I pioneered the technique of using steam to wipe them out and it is some work, but def gives good results. If you search for my posts in the 'bugs subcategory forum' you should find my posts. Many growers suggest spraying periodically (every 5-10 days)with Azamax as well which is also plant based, but it is not cheap. Good luck!

thats what i like side by side comparrisons wish more would do them because they r more accurate to solve a debate or method

HomeGrown&Smoked said:

I have done a side by side comparison (I used it on my outdoor grow, but not my indoor) and there is not a taste left over. I stopped spraying about 14 days before harvest, and at that point I only applied once every two weeks. The bottle recommends 10 days, but I figure a couple extra wouldn't hurt.

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I saw that post on steam while I was searching, Mac. Brilliant, I'm definitely going to pick up one of those up early next week and give it a try, and just to have one on hand. Brilliant.

So does it not matter at all what the temperature is when supplying CO2 then, as far as the effectiveness of the CO2 supplementation? Is that whole 80-85 thing (I've also heard up to 90 is fine) just optional with optimal CO2 supplementation? I could get an air conditioner and go for my target temperature in the low 70's, and the CO2 would be just as effective as it would be in the low to mid 80's?

Just to be clear, the CO2 wasn't a proposed mite control measure at all. I've already got that going. What I was more wondering about is if it's presence at optimal levels changes anything about the mites' ideal temperature range, like if 80 degrees is all the same to the mites CO2 or not; and if lowering my lights-on temperatures (well lowering them all, I'd have to lower lights off accordingly too) to slow the mites down will reduce/diminish any of the benefits of the CO2 supplementation.

You want to keep your room temps around 72-78 tops if possible. Of course people will argue that plants grow outside just fine in higher temps...and they do grow, just not as well. When temps get too hot, the stomates on the leaves close up to retain moisture in the plant. When the stomates are closed very little plant growth occurs. Ask anyone in horticulture, they will confirm this.
Also remember that CO2 can ONLY be used effectively by the plant when light is present, not at night. Running CO2 does allow you to run with a warmer room temp, just don't push it. Average background outdoor CO2 levels worldwide are around 320ppm if I remember right, and your target indoors should be around 1500ppm. Also keeping your temps a bit lower helps protect against molds and rot. The term 'Jungle Rot' will def apply to your grow if temps and humidity get away from you. Good Luck!

I read for every 100 ppm you go above 500ppm you allow the temp to rise 1 degree. so going from 5 to 15 you would rise ten. but your allready on the high side.
i would drop temps at night and allow to rise during day when lights on.

reggaerican said:

as far as CO2 is concerned that is debatable that it even makes a difference in the bloom phaze. maybe the first few weeks when it is forming flower nodes but after that save your money

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Wrong answer dude. It is well documented that co2 is a huge benefit.

Bastard mites! sorry to hear about your infestation.
Please remember that co2 will add density to buds, ie weight. So please make sure your humidity is under control especially in late flowering.
Co2 at 1200-1500ppm will allow you to run temps a few degrees warmer. That literally means a few degrees, nothing crazy. Its not a workaround for poor air quality.
Kill mites with co2? ya apparently at 10k ppm you can kill off mites....and other carbon based life lol. Thats just got bad news written all over it. I wouldn't try it for safety reason unless I had a proven air tight flower chamber and the ability to emergency exhaust the room from outside the room. Maybe someone who has done this can elaborate.
As far as diminished returns, all plant shock will reduce returns. That includes mites, humidity and heat stress.

Awesome, thank you all very very much. I can actually get the temperatures down to more like 76-77 with the current setup, but that's somewhat dependent on the weather. I wanted to put the air conditioner in so I could really have total control, but I was over-thinking the whole CO2/temperature thing a bit much. I should be able to get it in early next week, and I think I'll be able to get some of that Organocide today so I can apply it this evening. Hopefully they don't get chewed up much more at all.

Also definitely going to pick up one of those steamers. Mac are you still using one of the same Rowenta steamer from Bed Bath And Beyond I think it was? Or have you refined the method any further, come up with anything new?