400watt HPS COCO indoor grow

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info which I already fully understand about exudates etc. I also full understand about the casparian strip and the endodermis if you'd like to give a science lesson about that too?

All I'm saying is that with chemical nutes if you closely monitor what's being fed to your plants and don't overdo anything then there is no need to flush. This is from experience not from a book.


If you pile your plants with countless amounts of chemicals containing high levels of P and K for example 0-50-50 for prolonged periods of time this can have a negative effect on the plant and cause bad taste.

I personally use a 6-3-8 the whole way through from start to finish with added Ca and Mg along with some silica and a couple of hits of PK1314 at the right time.

Coco being an inert medium is easy to monitor your feed going IN vs your feed OUT to stop any reverse osmosis in the rootzone.


Granted not everyone monitors this way.

But if you do it stops you from over feeding which stops the reverse osmosis in the rootzone which most people suffer from with chem nutes because they don't understand how they work.





J
certainly wouldn't mind giving you a lesson, if you need one let me know...

if you had read the 'lesson' then you would have understood that i'm not saying shit about your flushing, i have an issue with you saying that whether grown organically or chemically the same things are taken in by the plant...if your science is as thorough as you claim, then you wouldn't be saying that...maybe you do need another lesson or two...

and if you've clearly stated that you don't feel the need to flush due to experience, suggesting that to inexperienced growers without as much enlightenment as you've got wouldn't be the best thing to do now, would it...
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
also, blackhawk, I can show you pictures which show the difference in bud ripeness in which i covered half of one cola and didn't cover the other half. let me know if you want to see them and i'll put them up. The half that was covered for a total of 24 hours (starting from sunset, harvest during the next night at around 10 pm) has some ridiculously beautiful colours, and a much larger proportion of amber trichs, the half that wasn't has much more milky trichs than amber. these photos were fortunately taken with a friend's 18MP DSLR (don't hold me for quoting the MP, i'm not a camera guy so not sure about the real value of stats like MP, optical zoom, digital zoom etc but it was a fucking fucking good pic, all pics taken with these camera could be zoomed in on my mac and the colours of individual trichs can be seen). certainly does make a difference, i have heard that the changes are more noticeable in organically grown plants though, not quite sure why...i am sure that keeping the plant in the darkness during the normal light period stimulates the plant to sort of go into 'rapid mature mode' where it feels that the season is getting over and its life (and future propagation) is in danger...in a last ditch effort to propagate the species, it tries to do whatever it can to grab some pollen that might be floating around and create some seeds...this involves maximum sticky resin production to catch pollen, and as the maturing process is sped up the trichs turn amber a lot faster than they would otherwise...naturally this can't be done in the middle of flowering as it will stress the plant into becoming hermaphroditic when the light is turned back on (irregular light schedule) but in the end it doesn't matter as the only time it's going to see light again is when it's harvested :D
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
also, blackhawk, I can show you pictures which show the difference in bud ripeness in which i covered half of one cola and didn't cover the other half. let me know if you want to see them and i'll put them up. The half that was covered for a total of 24 hours (starting from sunset, harvest during the next night at around 10 pm) has some ridiculously beautiful colours, and a much larger proportion of amber trichs, the half that wasn't has much more milky trichs than amber. these photos were fortunately taken with a friend's 18MP DSLR (don't hold me for quoting the MP, i'm not a camera guy so not sure about the real value of stats like MP, optical zoom, digital zoom etc but it was a fucking fucking good pic, all pics taken with these camera could be zoomed in on my mac and the colours of individual trichs can be seen). certainly does make a difference, i have heard that the changes are more noticeable in organically grown plants though, not quite sure why...i am sure that keeping the plant in the darkness during the normal light period stimulates the plant to sort of go into 'rapid mature mode' where it feels that the season is getting over and its life (and future propagation) is in danger...in a last ditch effort to propagate the species, it tries to do whatever it can to grab some pollen that might be floating around and create some seeds...this involves maximum sticky resin production to catch pollen, and as the maturing process is sped up the trichs turn amber a lot faster than they would otherwise...naturally this can't be done in the middle of flowering as it will stress the plant into becoming hermaphroditic when the light is turned back on (irregular light schedule) but in the end it doesn't matter as the only time it's going to see light again is when it's harvested :D
tha

ts why m giving 48 hours of complete darkness in the end before chop.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
i'd advise against 48 simply because it's very humid here...these higher temperatures and humidity really encourage bacterial pathogens to attack the plant...plants that are kept in darkness for 48 hours, regardless of strain (if it's not a 100% sativa) involves too large a window for mold/rot/something else to sit there and multiply. you might think it does nothing, but you don't want to have to throw a bud or two away for that reason would you? 24 hours will do the job thoroughly. but in the end the choice is yours. it could also be the case that the strains i tested this method on had buds a bit too dense for 48 hours. do what you feel like!

best vibes

ElChupa
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
certainly wouldn't mind giving you a lesson, if you need one let me know...

if you had read the 'lesson' then you would have understood that i'm not saying shit about your flushing, i have an issue with you saying that whether grown organically or chemically the same things are taken in by the plant...if your science is as thorough as you claim, then you wouldn't be saying that...maybe you do need another lesson or two...

and if you've clearly stated that you don't feel the need to flush due to experience, suggesting that to inexperienced growers without as much enlightenment as you've got wouldn't be the best thing to do now, would it...
Plants uptake positively and negatively charged ions which are INORGANIC. regardless of their source.


http://www.ipni.net/publication/envb.nsf/0/22E42BA77D7347E5852579E4006E886E/$FILE/09062-01-Enviro-Brief-01.pdf



J
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
i'd advise against 48 simply because it's very humid here...these higher temperatures and humidity really encourage bacterial pathogens to attack the plant...plants that are kept in darkness for 48 hours, regardless of strain (if it's not a 100% sativa) involves too large a window for mold/rot/something else to sit there and multiply. you might think it does nothing, but you don't want to have to throw a bud or two away for that reason would you? 24 hours will do the job thoroughly. but in the end the choice is yours. it could also be the case that the strains i tested this method on had buds a bit too dense for 48 hours. do what you feel like!

best vibes

ElChupa
Humidity in my grow cab stays around 40%-50% during light on and off. The fans take care of it. As when lights are off my temps are in higher 70s, I don't think it wd cause mould. But I dunno. M still thinking.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
Plants uptake positively and negatively charged ions which are INORGANIC. regardless of their source.


http://www.ipni.net/publication/envb.nsf/0/22E42BA77D7347E5852579E4006E886E/$FILE/09062-01-Enviro-Brief-01.pdf



J
lol this has almost no technical (detailed?) information whatsoever...the usage of the words 'almost exclusively' is contestable...as it is the molecules that fall outside of the 'almost exclusively' that make the difference...L-amino acids, carbohydrates, ions of fulvic acid, etc. More than the effect that these amino acids and enzymes have themselves, it's the fact that they trigger changes (slight hormonal changes) in exudate production which naturally triggers changes in nutrient uptake. these hormonal changes also cause a slight change in terpene production in the plant. this is a continuous process which happens every second. while it's not like fluctuating drastically every second, it changes over time, time being anywhere from an hour to a month to years depending on the plant species.

regardless, if this is an ego battle to prove that one of us is right, count me out...I am merely trying to correct your statement that whether grown organically or chemically, the 'things' that the plant takes into its roots are the same. They are very similar, as far as ions like N03 are concerned, as you mentioned, as a nitrate ion is always a nitrate ion. But if it was exactly the same, then there wouldn't be such noticeable differences in the final product (yield flavour smell) when comparing organically grown bud to chemically grown bud. It isn't unique to cannabis, the same thing applies to homegrown tomatoes and strawberries, and probably to everything else, although i haven't grown anything else personally.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
Humidity in my grow cab stays around 40%-50% during light on and off. The fans take care of it. As when lights are off my temps are in higher 70s, I don't think it wd cause mould. But I dunno. M still thinking.
sorry i'm such a terrible grower when it comes to figures like RH, i only know it's humid cause my face tells me so ;)
but if you want, perhaps you could try 24 hours, then at night open it up and use a light to see if theres any parts of the plant which are noticeably brown and squishy. that is a sign of bud rot. mould is not something i have personally experienced, i think i mentioned earlier that i have; what i have experienced is bud rot, but only on one small teeny tiny portion of the plant, literally like 2-3 calyxes. anyways if there are no probs after 24 hours, it's unlikely there will be after another 24. you will notice that after the first 24 hours, your leaves will be drooping, that's just the effects of phototropism ;)
 
so guys, a little over 50 days or a little under 8 weeks, here are the latest pictures.

please see and tell when they would be ready and as for somango when should i start the flush or leach?

SOMANGO
View attachment 2597744View attachment 2597749View attachment 2597748View attachment 2597747View attachment 2597746View attachment 2597745View attachment 2597758

NLXJACK
View attachment 2597757View attachment 2597755View attachment 2597754View attachment 2597751

BOTH
View attachment 2597756

SOMANGO is at 19 inches and NLXJACK is at 26 inches from mud.


They look amazing! Cant wait to see harvest pics :D
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
Did first flush just now. Somango has most of bottom and top cola leaves yellow n curling. N almost every leaf is started to yellow.
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
that's great blackhawk...that means your plant is being deprived of all of the nutrients it needs...it's relying on whatever long chain sugar molecules it's stored up, and the chlorophyll are dying; this will result in a much nicer smoother taste in the end. : )
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
it also certainly wouldn't hurt to mix a spoonful of powdered jaggery per gallon of water when you flush...i've found that giving the plant carbs in the form of sugars in the end really helps the taste...of course this is in an organic medium, so i'm not sure how well it would work for you, but wouldn't really hurt. if you overdo the jaggery, expect ants.

best vibes

ElChupa

happy harvest
 

kingfisher021

Well-Known Member
how are the trichomes looking blackhawk? ive been keeping an eye on to see if i can spot any amber - but yet to see even one amber trichome - and with the 20x loupe i have its difficult for me to tell if they are clear or milky
 

Blackhawk149

Active Member
how are the trichomes looking blackhawk? ive been keeping an eye on to see if i can spot any amber - but yet to see even one amber trichome - and with the 20x loupe i have its difficult for me to tell if they are clear or milky
All are milky. Can't see any amber. Don't have a loupe. I just magnify the pictures from my macro lens. I have heard that many auto strains don't show amber at all.
 
Hehe so you will get to try out a lil bit of the somango on 4/20 that is so cool :mrgreen: . My easy ryder is on day 42 and i can see loads of pistils shooting up everywhere so im pretty happy too!
 

elchupacabra

Well-Known Member
trust me, once you cover it for 24 hours and see, you'd be surprised how many are amber...i had a skunk plant that stayed clear, not even milky, for quite a while, 24 hours of darkness later, 25% amber 50% milky 25% clear...

for those of you growing outdoors, you may experience a slight reduction in growth rate, it's purely due to the heat...watering your plant with cold ass water in the morning does wonders in eliminating this...also, black pots are not ideal, any lighter colour will also make a big difference...

looking forward to seeing your plants blackhawk, good luck

best vibes

ElChupa
 
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