300W LED or 1000W HPS?

dscj71

Member
It takes 800 Watts of LED to equal the same amount of lumens of a 400watt H.P.S. LED is only half efficient than H.P.S. but LED kick ass on the spectrum. So i use both in my grow together.
 

Smokenpassout

Well-Known Member
If you run a single plant in a 5 gallon bucket your'ee good with 300 watt LED. If you plan to run 4 of those go with the HPS.
 
If you run a single plant in a 5 gallon bucket your'ee good with 300 watt LED. If you plan to run 4 of those go with the HPS.
From my experience most LED's are pretty shit. The GOD budmaster model I now have I cant recommend enough. Its easily replaced two of my hps lights
 

ballist

Well-Known Member
From my experience most LED's are pretty shit. The GOD budmaster model I now have I cant recommend enough. Its easily replaced two of my hps lights
What size HPSs are you replacing. You need about 650watts of high quality led to replace a 1000watt hps. I would love to know what you yielded under the different lights.
 
2 x 600w. To be fair Ive only just finished the one crop using the 675G.O.D model.(it got switched to the GOD from the xg on the second week of flower) Id previously used the 675 xg model which was half the price of the GOD and cropped around the same amount as a 600w. From 2 x 600w around 35 to 40oz (in coco). The 675xg gave me over 17oz on my first try of it even though I had trouble making them drink because of the lack of heat. Ill let you know what the 675GOD pulls, but ive done the two smallest of the 9 plants under it and they have both weighed over 4oz.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
It takes 800 Watts of LED to equal the same amount of lumens of a 400watt H.P.S. LED is only half efficient than H.P.S. but LED kick ass on the spectrum. So i use both in my grow together.
wait what, if an 1000w HPS can put 350 PAR watts into the canopy [assuming 35% efficiency] and a 1000w led puts 420 Par Watts into the canopy[assuming 42% efficiency].........
Which one puts more light and not in the ratio, that you suggest,.

Your "ratio" might only apply to the cheapest of the LED's which have terrible efficiency and like above stated, never meant for growing necessarily....only copied to be that way....even then it is a bit flawed....ime, this ratio has been disproven, even with cheap no name unknown info diodes and especially for supplementation. :peace:
 
Thanks for all the replies. I did my research and have no confidence in LEDs...will upgrade to 1000 hps in the near future.
That was the position I was in, looked for years to find a decent led, but they were all shit in comparison to hps. All I can say is my local grow shop now sells out the budmaster 2s as soon as they are in stock. Im surprised no one on here seems to know about them??
 
Im new around here so dont want to seem like Im plugging budmaster. Please someone with more respect from others here can you look into the budmaster 2s, as you guys are really missing a trick. These are huge in the uk at the moment
 

Smokenpassout

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies. I did my research and have no confidence in LEDs...will upgrade to 1000 hps in the near future.
LED's have many advantages. They grow quality plants too. But in LED's you gotta be able to afford a quality unit with some real wattage, like a california lightworks 440 or better. People want to buy a 100 watt led ufo, and put it over two big plants, and then say LED is crap. If you want brute strength, higher yeild, for allot less money, go hps. If you want quality, a little less yield, low temps, allot lower cost to operate, no flir detection, and have twice the spending budget, go LED.
 

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
Lumens may not be a perfect measure, but I recommend you use the lumen rating and try to hit a minimum of 5000lm/sqft, ideally around 7500lm/sqft. That should also size you to the PAR levels you want if you make a halfway decent light selection.

Don't size a system based on watts unless you are building a heater instead of a grow room. We need to measure the light output not the energy used.

A higher efficiency system should be sized to less watts but the same light levels as a lower efficiency system. If buying new, compare the initial costs vs the operating costs for the time-frame you plan on running the system. With LEDs getting better so fast I think it's foolish to expect to run a system for more than 3-5 years. Determine your time-frame then you can compare the true costs of a system (initial investment + operating costs) and make the wise selection.

There is no best choice, it depends on how long you plan to run, what outdoor temps are like when you run, and how much electricity costs where you are located. The most expensive options don't pay off before their lifespan is over unless you live in a place with very high electrical costs.
 
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