1st Grow - Hubbabubbasmelloscope in DWC & Water Farm

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
What does rusty spots have to do with what nutes you use?

Just trying to put myself in the right mindset here

When you have a persisting problem work backwards and say what have i been doing constantly to piss them off. ;) what are the constants
Temps, Humidty , air exchange, nutrients lights dark time ect ect
I agree
RH def plays a role
and you are right
if the rh was super low and the plant was trying to gulp down water and sucked down a bunch of nute
but
her plants just isnt eating at all
and barely taking in water

my guess is some type of root or stem disease
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Right its not drinking cause its too salty for it or i could be way off
I agree
RH def plays a role
and you are right
if the rh was super low and the plant was trying to gulp down water and sucked down a bunch of nute
but
her plants just isnt eating at all
and barely taking in water

my guess is some type of root or stem disease
And then since it cant drink the roots tend to die off when that happens pythium takes hold which is in the air that is being bubbled in :)
 

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
Right its not drinking cause its too salty for it or i could be way off

And then since it cant drink the roots tend to die off when that happens pythium takes hold which is in the air that is being bubbled in :)
I am thinking that if she pulls back the hydroton to expose the base stem it will be rotting and or mushy

as for her ppm
I think it is pretty low
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
True it very well could be a root issue

But if it is what caused it? Imo with humidity that low the plant burnt itself up trying to pump the water it needed but the fertilizers build up in it.
Then when weakend it can be attakex by pythium

Diseases rarely affect healthy plants


Basically when i attack a problem i figure its not going to get better by throwing stuff at it first.

If anything i take away till i know whats up.

When i get a problems the first place i check is the roots, then temp and humidity and ph,
Then what im feeding . Usually in that order :)

Not saying you are wrong at all by adding calmag but when a problem is present that presents itself like excess to me i try to lessen first .

It all just takes time as well i cant tell you how many noobs i watched put their plant in the ground because they expect an instant change lol
I only mentioned adding calmag so she could eliminate it as a cause lol. I agree it’s not needed and honestly I’ve never used it except once just to see for my self it wasn’t. I’ve had issues with blotching but due to to much calcium and magnesium in my water. I agree she needs to add hydroguard and have said that a few times ;). I honestly can’t see humidity being an issue at 40%, my room is a tad lower bringing in cold dry air. I do think lowering PH will help. I’m at a loss as to what’s happening. I do know that my first and last DWC grow was a disaster. I had major root issues so switched but not at all suggesting that. There was a period where no beanies were being run as well. So I’m pretty sure her roots are suffering and as stated I would double the dose, it worked for me lol.
 

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
If it is rot i would suggest hydroguard as im unfamiliar with +life but if its the same stuff then id use it too :)
Bacillus a somthing
+life is a series of Bacteria and fungi that work in concert with each other to create a diverse ecosystem of microbe life working in unison to nurish root health and enhance sugar productivitely within the plant

kinda like hydroguard x's 100
 

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
It was at 350ppm this morning - same as its been since Friday
but has the water level changed since friday?
if so that would mean your plants are eating
or are you checking and the ppm is raising as the water levels drop
or are the water levels not dropping as well?
if your ppm are still @350 but your water has dropped 2gal that means you plant is eating
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
but has the water level changed since friday?
if so that would mean your plants are eating
or are you checking and the ppm is raising as the water levels drop
or are the water levels not dropping as well?
In the DWC, the water level only dropped about 3 cups between friday and Sunday ... and the ppm was still the same
 

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
@cjsbabygirl313

think of nutrients as a brick in a bucket of water and the water and brick are equal
now as the water evaps the brick sticks out of the water.....that means the nutrients are not being consumed

if the brick remains the same as the water level as it evaporates....as little as it might be that would mean the brick is deteriorating at the same rate as the water evap or nutrients are being used at the same rate
that means the plant is eating
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
that 24oz
that is good enough
when you raise the water back then what is the reading?
Good enough in that you think it will get better with time leaving it as it is? Again I am no expert by any stretch but that plant has issues and while I don’t know what, I’m pretty sure she needs to change it up. I do think your right regarding dropping the water if only to try it and I think the life can’t hurt and only help but, and sorry if wrong, was it not suggested she run a lesser amount than indicated by manufacturer? The reason I say double it is from experience, it was a math mistake made while high but it worked lol. I do have a thread here that documented my struggle with rot a few years back but I don’t like reading it ...... it brings back the horror lol.
Edit: it’s like a monster is eating the legs off your favourite pet :(. Slowly lol
 

Homie Da Clown

Well-Known Member
Just keep pushing forward, top feeding to get some more roots in the water. Add some calcium if it makes you feel better. + life has the same thing in it as hydrogaurd, and more. Drop the water level 1/2 inch under the netpot if you want... Increase that top watering to 3x a day tho if you drop the water level.

.
 
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Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
@Homie Da Clown ... The ppm dropped only to about 330 when I added the water.

@Wisher2 ... ok, I understand (I’m getting there fellas - I promise! :-) )

@Budley Doright - yeah some horrors are best left forgotten lol*
Yes they are. It made me totally rethink what I was doing and like I said earlier, if I was going to continue with a flooded system I figured a chiller was necessary. And I’m still thinking of changing lol.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Just keep pushing forward, top feeding to get some more roots in the water. Add some calcium if it makes you feel better. + life has the same thing in it as hydrogaurd, and more. Drop the water level 1/2 inch under the netpot. Increase that top watering to 3x a day tho if you drop the water level.

.
Life does not have any of the type of bacteria hydroguard has FYI. Totally different type. I have not looked up anything about life other than what’s in it but have done quite a bit of research regarding Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens and it’s been proven to increase root mass in ag crops up to 30% in testing, I was trying to source the same bacteria in another product, hence the dance with the devil comment a few pages ago lol. Not saying it’s better btw just not the same ;).
 

Homie Da Clown

Well-Known Member
Its got 10x the biology in it that hydrogaurd does... but bro one beenies is better than no beenies.
Whats your point?
Do you think the lack of bacillus Amyloliquefaciens caused the root mass to under-develop?
She caused a damping off in the root crown, and the + life as well as hydrogaurd need time to heal that spot HOPEFULLY...
Like wisher said this is the pitfalls of DWC...
DWC is super fast growth and awesome yields, but they can be finicky...
You ought to try running 4 diff systems! If it wasnt for the fact that I have my shit down to a science and Wisher hooked me up with the cns17, I could never make it...
 
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