MoN3yb4Gs
Well-Known Member
Thanks man!
It's really no sweat man. Just gotta get the right place for yourself!
10 x 15 Stealth Attic Growroom.
- Thread starter MoN3yb4Gs
- Start date
It's really no sweat man. Just gotta get the right place for yourself!
MoN3yb4Gs
Well-Known Member
Sure Hulk, sry I've been slackin' Here's some shots for ya bro.
I'll be working on installing my screens in the back on the wall you can see in this pic for next round so that my buds grow up the wall, and back toward the lights. Hell yes! =)
These buds are as long and just about as big around as 400 watt hps bulbs...
I'll be working on installing my screens in the back on the wall you can see in this pic for next round so that my buds grow up the wall, and back toward the lights. Hell yes! =)
These buds are as long and just about as big around as 400 watt hps bulbs...
oldmandroman
Active Member
how did u get your buds that big what size liht did u use and how long did u veg and wat kind of nute
MoN3yb4Gs
Well-Known Member
I suppose alot is credited to genetics. But I don't want you to think I didn't earn my keep! =)
I've use a two to one ratio for spectrum; Two 400 watt HPS, and one 400 watt metal halide. 1200 watts total.
These plants were only vegged one week before being switched to 12/12. They were forced to a vigorous flowering feeding schedule using the CANNA nute line. DON'T FORGET TO FOLIAR FEED YOUR PLANTS!
I'm at about 45 day flower, and their almost ready to come down. Just want you to take note, this is why I chose aero in the first place. SOoo much faster than soil.
Now, let me clarify. NOT BETTER than soil just MUCH faster.
I've use a two to one ratio for spectrum; Two 400 watt HPS, and one 400 watt metal halide. 1200 watts total.
These plants were only vegged one week before being switched to 12/12. They were forced to a vigorous flowering feeding schedule using the CANNA nute line. DON'T FORGET TO FOLIAR FEED YOUR PLANTS!
I'm at about 45 day flower, and their almost ready to come down. Just want you to take note, this is why I chose aero in the first place. SOoo much faster than soil.
Now, let me clarify. NOT BETTER than soil just MUCH faster.
wonderblunder
Well-Known Member
I would say it definitey depends on the feeding schedule in the previous week or so. Were they flushed weekly throughout flower?
MoN3yb4Gs
Well-Known Member
They have never been flushed before these several of days, meaning they circulated in the flower nutes constantly while budding. Fed every week to ten days
though basically when ever I topped off the reservoirs.
Now they are in 100% pure reverse osmosis water, with the prescribed amount of "the final flush"
though basically when ever I topped off the reservoirs.
Now they are in 100% pure reverse osmosis water, with the prescribed amount of "the final flush"
wonderblunder
Well-Known Member
I think it sounds fine to me. I have had some crops that were NEVER flushed at the end, and it was fine. I prefer to let my plants dry out a little before chop. Not sure how you would apply that in hydro....
fatman7574
New Member
I do not flush. IMHO Plants should finish the same green color they have been throughout the growth process. No other colors should appear (no yellow, blue, red, purple light green or yellow) and no loss of any leaves, young or old. Any color but the natural green color is an indication of nutrient deficiency not flushing. If you want to make buds taste great you cure them, you don't deprive them of nutrients and call it flushing.
Look at any plant tissue sample analysis. The plant matter is chock full of nutrients regardless of any "flushing" you might due. Plants continue to grow not just up until they are harvested but they normally continue to grow and ripen after they are harvested. Some people talk crap about flushed plants producing white ashes and non flushed plants producing black ashes unless plants are grown with organic fertilizers.
A mineral is a mineral regardless if it comes from a prevoiusly stored source or not. Organic nutrients are just mineral nutrients that were stored by a plant or animal in its tissues. IE it is still just a mineral. Nitrohgen in the air is just a mineral regardless if it is taken in by root nodules and turned into ammonia. It is still just minerals. The macronutrients are present in plant tissue in quantities from 0.2% to 4.0% (on a dry matter weight basis). Flushing does not change this appreciably and what little change it causes decreases potential final potency and yield.
Micronutrients are present in plant tissue in quantities measured in parts per million, ranging from 5 to 200 ppm, or less than 0.02% dry weight. These are not removed by flushing at all. These levels do not vary much except that organically grown plant tissue actually contains more micro nutrients generally so if any thing that would mean if the nutrients caused the bad tastes then organically grown pot would taste worse then chemically grown pot. So there are just a minute amount of fertilizer salts in pot regardless of the method of growth or whether they are flushed or not.
Obviously flushing is doing something to alter the taste that does not involve the fertilizer minerals present in the finished product.
Then there is the is curing/ripening which is that time when the plant converts chemicals. By ripening in controlled storage you can "ripen/cure" them to perfection. fast dried pot tastes nasty. Simply grow under full nutrition until harvest. With small plants such as yours harvest by simply cutting off the roots. Hang until in a cool low humidity are with an exhaust fan until they dry enough they will not immediattely mold in sealed in a jar. Cut down to managble pieces (manicure) that can be put in jars or cellophane bags. The resins do not stick to cellophane, they do stick plastic bags. Cellophane can be bought at any large crafts shops cheaper than buying seal a meal bags. Seal bags and jars, open and leave open a few minutes every two or three days for about 15 to20 days and then open once every 7 to 10 days after that and leave open a few minutes untill they reach the flavor you like and until they are dry enough that the stems will snap instead of just bending.
This method slows the process of drying but greatly improves the taste as the buds use up partially processed chemicals and such. By flushing you are hurrying the process by not only stopping growth but by reversing the process and actually causing needed nutrients (not extra nutrients) to be drawn out of the plants by osmossis. You draw out not just nutrients but about anything/everything else that is water soluble except the calcium.
Concentrations of salts and chemicals dissolved in water simply cross through the roots membrane until the water contains the same concentration as the plants. That is the idiocy of flushing. Use RO water to suck by osmossis all the vital juices out just so you do not have to cure the bud, but can quick dry it and quickly convert over the crystals over to nasty crap. Not me. It took many weeks to grow, so waiting many weeks to cure is just fine.
http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Drying-And-Curing-Marijuana.html
http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseedbank.com/Growguides/general-marijuana-info/drying-curing-marijuana-buds.html
http://www.marijuana-seeds.net/Curing-the-Marijuana-Plant.html
Look at any plant tissue sample analysis. The plant matter is chock full of nutrients regardless of any "flushing" you might due. Plants continue to grow not just up until they are harvested but they normally continue to grow and ripen after they are harvested. Some people talk crap about flushed plants producing white ashes and non flushed plants producing black ashes unless plants are grown with organic fertilizers.
A mineral is a mineral regardless if it comes from a prevoiusly stored source or not. Organic nutrients are just mineral nutrients that were stored by a plant or animal in its tissues. IE it is still just a mineral. Nitrohgen in the air is just a mineral regardless if it is taken in by root nodules and turned into ammonia. It is still just minerals. The macronutrients are present in plant tissue in quantities from 0.2% to 4.0% (on a dry matter weight basis). Flushing does not change this appreciably and what little change it causes decreases potential final potency and yield.
Micronutrients are present in plant tissue in quantities measured in parts per million, ranging from 5 to 200 ppm, or less than 0.02% dry weight. These are not removed by flushing at all. These levels do not vary much except that organically grown plant tissue actually contains more micro nutrients generally so if any thing that would mean if the nutrients caused the bad tastes then organically grown pot would taste worse then chemically grown pot. So there are just a minute amount of fertilizer salts in pot regardless of the method of growth or whether they are flushed or not.
Obviously flushing is doing something to alter the taste that does not involve the fertilizer minerals present in the finished product.
Then there is the is curing/ripening which is that time when the plant converts chemicals. By ripening in controlled storage you can "ripen/cure" them to perfection. fast dried pot tastes nasty. Simply grow under full nutrition until harvest. With small plants such as yours harvest by simply cutting off the roots. Hang until in a cool low humidity are with an exhaust fan until they dry enough they will not immediattely mold in sealed in a jar. Cut down to managble pieces (manicure) that can be put in jars or cellophane bags. The resins do not stick to cellophane, they do stick plastic bags. Cellophane can be bought at any large crafts shops cheaper than buying seal a meal bags. Seal bags and jars, open and leave open a few minutes every two or three days for about 15 to20 days and then open once every 7 to 10 days after that and leave open a few minutes untill they reach the flavor you like and until they are dry enough that the stems will snap instead of just bending.
This method slows the process of drying but greatly improves the taste as the buds use up partially processed chemicals and such. By flushing you are hurrying the process by not only stopping growth but by reversing the process and actually causing needed nutrients (not extra nutrients) to be drawn out of the plants by osmossis. You draw out not just nutrients but about anything/everything else that is water soluble except the calcium.
Concentrations of salts and chemicals dissolved in water simply cross through the roots membrane until the water contains the same concentration as the plants. That is the idiocy of flushing. Use RO water to suck by osmossis all the vital juices out just so you do not have to cure the bud, but can quick dry it and quickly convert over the crystals over to nasty crap. Not me. It took many weeks to grow, so waiting many weeks to cure is just fine.
http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Drying-And-Curing-Marijuana.html
http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseedbank.com/Growguides/general-marijuana-info/drying-curing-marijuana-buds.html
http://www.marijuana-seeds.net/Curing-the-Marijuana-Plant.html
fatman7574
New Member
So what strain did you grow? They look nice and without a lot of heavy side branching. They look like they would make a nice SOG at 6 to 9 per square foot.
wonderblunder
Well-Known Member
Nice info Fatman. So when you are saying "organic nutrient" they are carbon based, and follow the chemical(chemistry) definition of "organic"?
Nutrients can also be broken down via heat as well and released in a highly soluble form, which is very easy to lose with more heat or erosion and what not.
On your question MoneyBags:
I don't really know. I imagine it varies by genetics, conditions, and grow technique. I would def wait for those trichs to turn to your desired level. I usually start my flush, once they stop responding to feedings and they are just "ready". Each strain, plant, etc, may be a little different. Looking good in there.
Are those lights for both sides of the setup, or just the one?
Nutrients can also be broken down via heat as well and released in a highly soluble form, which is very easy to lose with more heat or erosion and what not.
On your question MoneyBags:
I don't really know. I imagine it varies by genetics, conditions, and grow technique. I would def wait for those trichs to turn to your desired level. I usually start my flush, once they stop responding to feedings and they are just "ready". Each strain, plant, etc, may be a little different. Looking good in there.
Are those lights for both sides of the setup, or just the one?
fatman7574
New Member
Yes fertilizer compounds can be broken down and changed into other compounds chiefly by oxidation. Most fertilizer metal salts are pretty much involitable. So if they do not burn at smoldering temps and they are not volitile they are also not the taste culprits. Below shows the simple burning of gas with air (oxygen and nitrogen). The nitrogen is not destroyed it goes through the process unchanged as it does in a joint or bowl.
CH4 + 2O2 + 7.52N2 → CO2 + 2H2O + 7.52N2 + heat
Another way of looking at flushing etc is to look at nutrient mobility in relation to a deficiency chart. If the nutrient is highly mobile and you "flush" and see a defficiency symptom of one of those highly mobile nutrients appear then your flushing is causing not a "flushing" of an excess of that nutrient but is instead a causing a nutrient deficiency by both removing what the plants could have easily accessed (high mobility) from another part of the plant but also by withholding the nutrient itself. If the sign is that of a defficiency of a poorly mobile nutrient then it is because the "flushing" is withholding a nutrient that the plants needs that is not transferable from another part of the plant, yet alone not being in excess. Only if no signs of any defficiencies appear are you simply flushing "excess" nutrients instead of flushing and withholding still needed nutrients. A plant should neither have to cannibalize itself or be expected to try to finish maturing through the most important period of its budding cycle defficient in nutrients just to save the effort of proper curing the buds after harvest.
Freely Mobile
Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium, Chloride, Flouride
Moderately Mobile
Magnesium, Sulfur, Molybdenum, Aluminum
Poorly Mobile
Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Calcium, Boron
Earl
Well-Known Member
Looking good there buddy.Sure Hulk, sry I've been slackin' Here's some shots for ya bro.
I'll be working on installing my screens in the back on the wall you can see in this pic for next round so that my buds grow up the wall, and back toward the lights. Hell yes! =)
These buds are as long and just about as big around as 400 watt hps bulbs...
You really must be "moneybags",
to build a set-up like that.
Hope you get it all rockin n rolling
like your master plan calls for.
I have harvested without flushing, and then with flushing,
and I will never go back to not flushing.
Get the cure on,
and let us know how it turns out.
.
MoN3yb4Gs
Well-Known Member
I managed to get my hands on two different kinds. These were actually a couple of mystery clones. I picked up along the road. What I do know is one is originally from Humboldt co. and the other had #27 or something like that on the tag.
From what I can tell the Humboldt strain looks to have a more leafy characteristic, with smaller denser nugs. Looks, and smells like fire! The other strain has much larger buds, not as dense, or pungent, but a heavy yielder. The final weigh isn't in yet but both strains look like they'll pull their weight.
- I did flower one of each of these strains side by side with the aero grow, as to note distinct differences in plant growth. . .
I am planning to do my next grow by SCROG.