there is no best strain. Figure out what kind of high you want, read reviews on strains and base your opinion on that. I like sativas and skunk strains. If you're looking for an easy to grow strain try Northern Lights.
what you'll need for hydro:
a hot knife (craft store), tote(s) about 50 liters, net pots, rockwool, clay pellets, and a high output fishtank air pump bigger the better. Cut 6 holes into each tote you're using for the net pots, fill the pots half full of clay pellets. I usually put the seeds into the rockwool then leave them on a plate until I see roots out the bottom. To reduce watering, I put water on the plate so the plants can absorb the water as needed. If you don't, you'll be watering them daily or more. But too much water will also kill them, don't let them get too soaked, just a little on the bottom is good.
For germing them, I put them into a cup of water for 24 hours, at the end of the 24 hours, I poke them. The ones that float are duds, the ones that sink after the poke are usually good to go. Then I put them into a paper towel. They usually crack after 48 hours total. Skipping the water in a cup step, it can take a week or longer to crack.
You'll need nutrients, they are in 3 parts or 2 parts. I like 3 parts, you can customize it better and use it on other house plants. You can use hydro nutes in soil, but you can't use soil nutes in hydro. The nutrients will come with a grow schedule that will tell you how much to feed your plants. If it doesn't, the schedule will be online, just print it out and tape it to where you mix your nutrients. Always mix nutrients as directed or you will create lockout and the plant will die if you don't correct it. Usually you mix micro then grow then flower. Mix each nutrient up before adding the next one or you will get lock out. Although the nutrient sheet says to give seedlings and babies food, DON'T. The cotyledons provide food to the plant, the schedule was made for all plants. Wait at least 2 weeks before feeding (they are babies for about 2 weeks), and then when you feed cut the dosage by 1/4th for 2 weeks then up it. I usually don't use full strength until I'm in flower just to be safe.
Lighting, if you're going to do it properly get a 600 watt HPS system. But you could also use a 400, but 200 watts makes a huge difference and little difference on the electricity bill. High pressure sodium is made for flowering, metal halide is made for veg. But you can use HPS all the way through if you're on a budget. I highly suggest you get a digital or at least a switchable ballast either way. For bulbs, don't bother with going for the expensive MH bulbs, whats important is flowering, spend extra for the enhanced HPS bulbs its worth it.
LST is low stress training, it turns the plant from a tree to a bush. It is used when you have little space vertically, it makes the light get to the whole plant a lot better too.
