10 x 15 Stealth Attic Growroom.

MoN3yb4Gs

Well-Known Member
Are those lights for both sides of the setup, or just the one?
You can't see as I moved it out of the way, but there is actually another 400 watt MH between the two HPS'.
So, 1200 watts for just that one side; However, I will be doing so upgrading, and remodeling to my room soon. I am Seriously considering bumping it up another 600 watts to an 1800 watt setup per side.... I'm trying to be frugal as possible when it comes to my energy bills, so we'll see what I can dig up...
 

MoN3yb4Gs

Well-Known Member
Looking good there buddy.

You really must be "moneybags",
to build a set-up like that.

Hope you get it all rockin n rolling
like your master plan calls for.

I have harvested without flushing, and then with flushing,
and I will never go back to not flushing.

Get the cure on,
and let us know how it turns out.

.
Thanks, I continue working out the bugs!
 

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
I do not flush. IMHO Plants should finish the same green color they have been throughout the growth process. No other colors should appear (no yellow, blue, red, purple light green or yellow) and no loss of any leaves, young or old. Any color but the natural green color is an indication of nutrient deficiency not flushing. If you want to make buds taste great you cure them, you don't deprive them of nutrients and call it flushing.

Look at any plant tissue sample analysis. The plant matter is chock full of nutrients regardless of any "flushing" you might due. Plants continue to grow not just up until they are harvested but they normally continue to grow and ripen after they are harvested. Some people talk crap about flushed plants producing white ashes and non flushed plants producing black ashes unless plants are grown with organic fertilizers.

A mineral is a mineral regardless if it comes from a prevoiusly stored source or not. Organic nutrients are just mineral nutrients that were stored by a plant or animal in its tissues. IE it is still just a mineral. Nitrohgen in the air is just a mineral regardless if it is taken in by root nodules and turned into ammonia. It is still just minerals. The macronutrients are present in plant tissue in quantities from 0.2% to 4.0% (on a dry matter weight basis). Flushing does not change this appreciably and what little change it causes decreases potential final potency and yield.

Micronutrients are present in plant tissue in quantities measured in parts per million, ranging from 5 to 200 ppm, or less than 0.02% dry weight. These are not removed by flushing at all. These levels do not vary much except that organically grown plant tissue actually contains more micro nutrients generally so if any thing that would mean if the nutrients caused the bad tastes then organically grown pot would taste worse then chemically grown pot. So there are just a minute amount of fertilizer salts in pot regardless of the method of growth or whether they are flushed or not.

Obviously flushing is doing something to alter the taste that does not involve the fertilizer minerals present in the finished product.

Then there is the is curing/ripening which is that time when the plant converts chemicals. By ripening in controlled storage you can "ripen/cure" them to perfection. fast dried pot tastes nasty. Simply grow under full nutrition until harvest. With small plants such as yours harvest by simply cutting off the roots. Hang until in a cool low humidity are with an exhaust fan until they dry enough they will not immediattely mold in sealed in a jar. Cut down to managble pieces (manicure) that can be put in jars or cellophane bags. The resins do not stick to cellophane, they do stick plastic bags. Cellophane can be bought at any large crafts shops cheaper than buying seal a meal bags. Seal bags and jars, open and leave open a few minutes every two or three days for about 15 to20 days and then open once every 7 to 10 days after that and leave open a few minutes untill they reach the flavor you like and until they are dry enough that the stems will snap instead of just bending.

This method slows the process of drying but greatly improves the taste as the buds use up partially processed chemicals and such. By flushing you are hurrying the process by not only stopping growth but by reversing the process and actually causing needed nutrients (not extra nutrients) to be drawn out of the plants by osmossis. You draw out not just nutrients but about anything/everything else that is water soluble except the calcium.

Concentrations of salts and chemicals dissolved in water simply cross through the roots membrane until the water contains the same concentration as the plants. That is the idiocy of flushing. Use RO water to suck by osmossis all the vital juices out just so you do not have to cure the bud, but can quick dry it and quickly convert over the crystals over to nasty crap. Not me. It took many weeks to grow, so waiting many weeks to cure is just fine.

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Drying-And-Curing-Marijuana.html

http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseedbank.com/Growguides/general-marijuana-info/drying-curing-marijuana-buds.html

http://www.marijuana-seeds.net/Curing-the-Marijuana-Plant.html
All this fancy reading..
I compared two plants. One that i didnt flush and one that i did. The one i gave plain water did not only smoke better, but also tasted better and the ash was light grey. The one i didnt flush burnt dark grey. ANd futher more I now use a clearing solution and with never go back.
I can see you getting away by using organics in something like peat or coco.
Im thinking of using problend pro bloom for the last week before flushing.
I also now flush after veg and mid/end flowering.
RO sounds good tho.
I dont water before a chop. I let it dry up good to build carbs up and easyer removal of the PRO-MIX. SO basicly ten days. 1 with floraclear and one with plain water. The plants use most of the minerals out of the water in the last 4 days before cut down.
But if you have hard water you will have hard smoke. Calcium=immobile. High sodium content in the medium=no good.
Your bud will burn black if to much nitrogen was left in the plant. Or maybe an excess of P?
The trick is letting the plant use all available nutrients before chopchop.
I dont care what the facts are. I know whats best for my plants. :clap::weed:
 

fatman7574

New Member
All this fancy reading..
I compared two plants. One that i didnt flush and one that i did. The one i gave plain water did not only smoke better, but also tasted better and the ash was light grey. The one i didnt flush burnt dark grey. ANd futher more I now use a clearing solution and with never go back.
I can see you getting away by using organics in something like peat or coco.
Im thinking of using problend pro bloom for the last week before flushing.
I also now flush after veg and mid/end flowering.
RO sounds good tho.
I dont water before a chop. I let it dry up good to build carbs up and easyer removal of the PRO-MIX. SO basicly ten days. 1 with floraclear and one with plain water. The plants use most of the minerals out of the water in the last 4 days before cut down.
But if you have hard water you will have hard smoke. Calcium=immobile. High sodium content in the medium=no good.
Your bud will burn black if to much nitrogen was left in the plant. Or maybe an excess of P?
The trick is letting the plant use all available nutrients before chopchop.
I dont care what the facts are. I know whats best for my plants. :clap::weed:
Actually I think your just crap talking about some old school soil grows and imaginary tests. I assume you are just a dirt farmer. I can't see any other way you can go 10 days without watering. Curing is and always has been the way. Flushing is just an insane short cut for people who just quick dry and smoke without curiing, or who do over dries and half *ss cures.

I think I will just go back to the hydrodroponics/aerosection where people are nots so old school, low tech and imaginative but actually can follow science and chemistry. I have no desire to waste my time on old schoolers especially if they are dirt farmers who actually judge their sucess by the color of their ashes. That's sad and about as myth based a judgment as could possibly be made.
 

MoN3yb4Gs

Well-Known Member
All this fancy reading..
I compared two plants. One that i didnt flush and one that i did. The one i gave plain water did not only smoke better, but also tasted better and the ash was light grey. The one i didnt flush burnt dark grey. ANd futher more I now use a clearing solution and with never go back.
I can see you getting away by using organics in something like peat or coco.
Im thinking of using problend pro bloom for the last week before flushing.
I also now flush after veg and mid/end flowering.
RO sounds good tho.
I dont water before a chop. I let it dry up good to build carbs up and easyer removal of the PRO-MIX. SO basicly ten days. 1 with floraclear and one with plain water. The plants use most of the minerals out of the water in the last 4 days before cut down.
But if you have hard water you will have hard smoke. Calcium=immobile. High sodium content in the medium=no good.
Your bud will burn black if to much nitrogen was left in the plant. Or maybe an excess of P?
The trick is letting the plant use all available nutrients before chopchop.
I dont care what the facts are. I know whats best for my plants. :clap::weed:

... wtf?! I'm talking about flushing in hydroponics man.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
All this fancy reading..
I compared two plants. One that i didnt flush and one that i did. The one i gave plain water did not only smoke better, but also tasted better and the ash was light grey. The one i didnt flush burnt dark grey. ANd futher more I now use a clearing solution and with never go back.
I can see you getting away by using organics in something like peat or coco.
Im thinking of using problend pro bloom for the last week before flushing.
I also now flush after veg and mid/end flowering.
RO sounds good tho.
I dont water before a chop. I let it dry up good to build carbs up and easyer removal of the PRO-MIX. SO basicly ten days. 1 with floraclear and one with plain water. The plants use most of the minerals out of the water in the last 4 days before cut down.
But if you have hard water you will have hard smoke. Calcium=immobile. High sodium content in the medium=no good.
Your bud will burn black if to much nitrogen was left in the plant. Or maybe an excess of P?
The trick is letting the plant use all available nutrients before chopchop.
I dont care what the facts are. I know whats best for my plants. :clap::weed:
Sry not trying to jack your thread MB (your plants are looking amazing though excellent job so far my friend, mine dont even look that good be proud :finger:;-)) Anyway the reason bud gets that harsh throat burn is due to the P in the nutes. The owners of Advanced Nutrients did exhaustive tests on what marijuana plants need/use at certain times of growth and they come to find out you do not need much P at all in your nutes please watch this and try to pass it around as much as you can its very informative :bigjoint:

The Great Phosphorus Myth Exposed!



Once again Money Bags keep it rockin brotha i'm gonna have a few Q's comming your way ;-)
 

fatman7574

New Member
Sry not trying to jack your thread MB (your plants are looking amazing though excellent job so far my friend, mine dont even look that good be proud :finger:;-)) Anyway the reason bud gets that harsh throat burn is due to the P in the nutes. The owners of Advanced Nutrients did exhaustive tests on what marijuana plants need/use at certain times of growth and they come to find out you do not need much P at all in your nutes please watch this and try to pass it around as much as you can its very informative :bigjoint:

The Great Phosphorus Myth Exposed!



Once again Money Bags keep it rockin brotha i'm gonna have a few Q's comming your way ;-)
Your posting should be editted out. It is simply advertising AN absurdities.

Please do not post links to Fat Mikie videos. Informational links are nice when it is qaulity information. That opretty much excludes anything that comes out of Fta Mikie's mouth.

This one like most others from him is simply ludicrous. Fat Mikie obviously has no working knowledge of nutrient formulations. This video link just once again proves that fact. The ignorant fat man does not even address that phosphorus is what buffers against carbonates released by the roots during high nitroegen uptake. The high phosphorus levels are not there because the plants take up more phosphorus during budding but because the palnts typically dump more carbonate ions during the budding stage. Too low of phosphorous means nutrient lock outs and plant dwarfing.

He, like you, are trying to say that high phosphorus levels in the nutrients are causing throat burn. Wow, how can someone look at many bar charts showing low levels of phosphorus in mj tissue samples even when grown with nutrients containing high levels of phosphorous then turn around and say that the phosphorous not being taken up by the plantss is causing bad taste or black ashes. If the phosphorus is not in th tissues, then it is not being taken up. If it is not taken up and stored in the tissues it can not be causing bad taste of back ashes.
 

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
.

Do you guys think Mike's cholesterol is high? We should really get him on a diet: loud, fat aggressive Italian looking guys are a high risk group.

I have no sound on this computer, what's he talking about? Should I throw any supplements out? Big Bud? Fuck it, I'm chucking them all to be safe.

Has anyone else found that the cure is much more important than flushing for smooth vapor/smoke? I feed right up until the end and by the 4th or 5th week of cure the vapor is so smooth. I've read, and noticed, that a lot of swell comes in the last two weeks of the plants life. Perhaps there's enough nutes in the soilless, or in the plant, to carry it through to harvest and still have the buds swell. Thoughts?

And do you folks consider flushing to be watering without nutes or flushing the root ball with 2x-3x the volume of water?

.

bongsmilie
 

fatman7574

New Member
:spew:Is that why your on a marijuana growing forum and he has millions from the great products he sells? Should change the name to trollman instead of fartman. :finger: He has documents proving his results where are yours? Where is your degree in botany? Please scan and post I would like to see. Your nothing of interest to me and never will. Why dont you try to accomplish something as great as he has/is. Sorry MB for this on your thread I didn't know fartman was such an ignorant twit. :oops:

Your so funny child.

I need not show any proof of anything to you child. I have just stated knowm facts that Fat Mikie does not addressed which simply show he and you are quite wrong. If you have no interest in what I write then just put me on your ignore listchild. Just beacuse you choose to put faith in a parasite like Fat Mikie rather than read what I write does not excuse your present behavior i or explain your lust for Fat Milie and his great accomplishments.

He has documents proving no more that I said, He only has pie charts showing that the level of phosphorus in plant leaf tissues is less than the percentage of nitrogen and potash. Hell he does not evenbother to show the amounts vary greatly depending on wahich tissues are tested, roots, leaves, stems or bud sex glands. He does not even provide documentation showing the samples were done on pot tisues rather than tomatoe plamt tissues. Child, the parasite is a marketer not a scientist child.

The only thing the man has acoomplished is finding a large market ignorant enough to buy his grossly over priced products. He has never made a gtreat product as nothing he has ever sold has ever been better than average amongst mj specific nutrient products. I have been fornulating better nutrient products for over 20 years than he even now sells. Plus it cost about $3 to produce what he sells for $50. I hardly call that a great accomplishment.

What has a degree in bitany got to do with anything child. He is not a botanistnor does he employeee a botanist. Fat Mikie likely has and education no greater than 9th grade. I can gurantee you my library contains many more books, documents/papers on plant nutrient formulation, carbonate chemistry, inorganic and organic chemistry than does his, AN's or his employess libraries.

Do you have a reason to be so over protective of such a parasite as Fat Mikie? You write like he is your Daddy.

Fat Mikie is simply a prinicpal owmer in a company that follishly sells a product advertised as principally formulated for growing mj. He works and lives behind a foreign border to avoid conspiracy laws. I hardly consider that as accomplishing something great. I consider it about equal to being a Mexican drug lord or a Viet Nam draft dodger that hides behing another countries borders to avoid prosecution for being a coward.
 

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
.

All I'm saying is that his cholesterol is probably off the charts. I don't want to get in the middle of this argument, I just thought it needed saying.

.

bongsmilie
 

fatman7574

New Member
.

All I'm saying is that his cholesterol is probably off the charts. I don't want to get in the middle of this argument, I just thought it needed saying.

.

bongsmilie
There is a lot about Mikie that is off the charts. His prices, his Ego, his absurb logic, his deceoption and flat out lies and his continuance of the practice of taking advantage of unkowing mj growers and in steering them wrong with bad advice and skewed information meant to benefit noone but hism and his shareholders (if they even truly exist).
 

fatman7574

New Member
.

Do you guys think Mike's cholesterol is high? We should really get him on a diet: loud, fat aggressive Italian looking guys are a high risk group.

I have no sound on this computer, what's he talking about? Should I throw any supplements out? Big Bud? Fuck it, I'm chucking them all to be safe.

Has anyone else found that the cure is much more important than flushing for smooth vapor/smoke? I feed right up until the end and by the 4th or 5th week of cure the vapor is so smooth. I've read, and noticed, that a lot of swell comes in the last two weeks of the plants life. Perhaps there's enough nutes in the soilless, or in the plant, to carry it through to harvest and still have the buds swell. Thoughts?

If there was enough nutrients wothout nutrients being supplied then leaves would not be turning yellow and bt rown or even light green, nor would other signs of nutrient deficiencies be appearing. Minimal nutrients mean less swelling of the sex glands so less potency and less yield.

And do you folks consider flushing to be watering without nutes or flushing the root ball with 2x-3x the volume of water?

Most hydro growers who say they flush generally mean they just use pH balanced RO water instead of nutrient water during their flush period. So not only does it deprive the plant of nutrients during this most imp0rtant part of growth (sex gland swelling and resin production), it also removes nutrients that the plant could use if it were not flushed.

A person who wished just to deprive a plant of additional nutrients should raise the water to the EC they were previously maintaining with something like calcium, magnesium and potassium and then pH balance as needed. This will essentially mean nothing will be taken up but water and magnesium if needed and nothing will be removed through osmossis.

With the EC being the same as previously nothing will be stripped from the plant yet transpiration will continue to be high and photosynthesis will continue as long as there are unused nutrients in the plant that have not been metabolized. You will find though that the plant does not have that many unmetaboloized nutrients stored and as a resort your sex galand while they will get larger still will not reach the size they would have if fertilized. You will still find a lot of yellowing of older leaves. The magnesium will prevent the signs of magnesium shortage you see in almost all flushed mj.

Fllushing soil or other absorbent mediums usually means drenching them with water equal to about three times the container size three of four times in the last 1o to 14 days before harvest.

.bongsmilie
Many people do not consider sex gland swelling when they decide to flush their plants. Quite a mistake.
 

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
Actually I think your just crap talking about some old school soil grows and imaginary tests. I assume you are just a dirt farmer. I can't see any other way you can go 10 days without watering. Curing is and always has been the way. Flushing is just an insane short cut for people who just quick dry and smoke without curiing, or who do over dries and half *ss cures.

I think I will just go back to the hydrodroponics/aerosection where people are nots so old school, low tech and imaginative but actually can follow science and chemistry. I have no desire to waste my time on old schoolers especially if they are dirt farmers who actually judge their sucess by the color of their ashes. That's sad and about as myth based a judgment as could possibly be made.
WHats dirt? I was talking about soilLESS. You know.. Passive HYDROPONICS. Your not so smart.
ANd when im running a drip system on a V garden. That is hydroponics right? When im feeding hydroponics nutes.
Its not a myth that plants need water before cutting them. ITS COMMON SENSE. No facts need to prove that FLushing water helps how your weed burns and how white the ash is. BUt there is evidence proving that water makes your dope burn better.
I bet your "weed" That you "grow" is nice and crackly. Burns nice and black just the way you like it.
While i have people screaming for my packs.
it goes 1.smell 2.looks 3.bud size/shape,4. Taste/how it burns.
SOILLESS is Passive Hydroponics. :-P:finger:
I would do an active system but im not there so often ;):fire:
Yo fatty. Before you go around talking about this. Why do you try it and learn how to do it.
I learnt from mistakes. Im on here to learn differnt methods of growing.
Its not science. Its common sense. Now why do you go and get some.
 

Cow Tea

Active Member
Nitrohgen in the air is just a mineral regardless if it is taken in by root nodules and turned into ammonia.
Haha nice. I've been growing vegs for a while, so for some time I've known about legumes and their relationship with the bacteria that lives in the nodules and converts N from the air...But this is the first time I've seen this mentioned on an MJ site. I'd give you more rep+ if I could, for having (and preaching) a more holistic education on plant health. We should all try to understand the science behind growing in general, as well as experience, before we fix rules for MJ in our minds based off of internet talk.
 

fatman7574

New Member
WHats dirt? I was talking about soilLESS. You know.. Passive HYDROPONICS. Your not so smart. Your starting out on the wrong foot puppy.

ANd when im running a drip system on a V garden. That is hydroponics right? When im feeding hydroponics nutes.

Actually child it is simply a drip irrigation of a potting soil grow using a soluble fertilizer. That is not hydroponics. Hydroponics is growing in an inert non absorbent media. In reality DWC, bubbleponics nor any grow using an organic or absorbent material is hydroponics. DWC is aquaculture. Bubbleponics is principally aqua culture. Any growth in a absorbent organically based medium is simply a soil grow regardless of the nutrients used or how the are applied. your "victory garden is simply a soil type grow irrigated with drip emitters, not hydroponics.

Its not a myth that plants need water before cutting them. I did not claim a plants need for water was a myth simpleton. ITS COMMON SENSE. Wow you are something child. No facts need to prove that FLushing water helps how your weed burns and how white the ash is. Your entitled to your funny opinions child. BUt there is evidence proving that water makes your dope burn better. What?
I bet your "weed" That you "grow" is nice and crackly. Burns nice and black just the way you like it. I have no idea of what you are even trying to save Child and I really doubt that you do either. Your just jabbering and saying nothing. Everything I grow and cure burns without bitterness, crackling or black ashes. There is no green taste nor bitterness nor bad tastes child.

While i have people screaming for my packs. I still have no idea what you are saying. Is that some new wave street trash lingo child? Most people I know have grams, eights, quarters, ounces, kilos, pounds etc not packs. I have never even heard of a pack of bud. What country are you from child?

it goes 1.smell 2.looks 3.bud size/shape,4. Taste/how it burns. Sounds like a backward part of the world child. Or perhaps your just selling to too many children who have little real knowledge of mj buds. Most people I know judge it 1) Potency 2) Longevity of high 3) price 4) taste 5) moisture content 6) appearance 7) smell.

SOILLESS is Passive Hydroponics. Pro-mix is not classified as inert. It is classified as potting soil. IE soil. Passive. Wow, I can look at 10 different sites and likely get ten different defintions for a passive sytem absed upon waht they sell or promote. Your grow is just a limited mineral based based soil such as dirt but without any humus or partially digested organic matter. Instead you get nearly nutrient free peat moss. So you have nutrient free *rap wihich is highly absorbant that has a high CEC . A high CEC is the last thing you want for a Hydrpo grow so even if you choose to call your grow hydro you chose about the worse medium you could possibly pick for a medium Child. You can flood peat moss dozens of times and still it will contain nutrients. You have the organic matter plus minerals that are treated to make them have specific qualities desired for potting soil. Your potting soil is only inert in that it contains nearly no nutritional value when you bought it. How ever hydroponics is a methodology for non absorbent medias. You pour water soluble nutrients on peat mosss and they rtake up and hold onto huge amounts of nutrients. That is CEC, adsorption amnd holding onto nutrients. Peta moss is specifically not used by knowledgable growers due to its high CEC child.

Perhaps haps you put way to much faith in the stupid stuff some retailers put up on the web. Try reading from scholarly papers so you are not just listening to garbage info geared around selling products.. All the ingredients in Pro-mix are absorbent. Drip emitters due not make a system hydro, nor does using soluble fertilizers. Hell, Dyna-gro is now saying that they sell a hydro-pi oic fertilizers for soils that are nearly depleted of all nutrients. Does that make growing in that soil with sprayer or drip irrigation with water soluble hydroponics. No it just means using drip irrigation or sprayer and water soluble fertilizer on a nearly depleted soil grow.

I would do an active system but im not there so often

Wow you invented a new field of growing for simpletons called passive Hydroponics? What ever child. You simply grow mj in pro-mix (peat moss-vermiculite-perlite) a potting mix made for house plants. Are you really so simple brained. That growing method was abandoned by likely 95% of mj in door growers several decades ago.

Hydroponics is the growing in an inert soilless, organic free non absorbent medium using a water soluble chemical nutrient through a method which applies nutrients in water to the roots surfaces and media surfaces. Even growth in vermiculite or perlite is not hydroponics as they are absorbent. Even hydroton and rock wool are questionable due their water retention in pores or between fibers.

In reality hydroponics is pretty much limited to growing aero or in inert medias sauch as gravel, sand, marbles, plastic pellet, bio balls etc with water soluble, chemical (mineral) fertilizers. The fact that a water soluble fertilizer is used on other medias does not make that method hydroponics.


Yo fatty. Dude I can flame you out with some nasty names if that is what you really wish.

Before you go around talking about this. Why do you try it and learn how to do it.

Your a funny child!!!! Dude I grew out of your ancient growing methods over 30 years ago. Why would I again ever want to consider wasting my time and money on an inefficient growing system like an old school peat moss grow.

I learnt from mistakes. Im on here to learn different methods of growing. Well it seems you headed in the wrong direction if you think I am talking trash child.

You definitely are not showing her here to try to learn judging by your recent posts. What you are doing is growing in antiquated methods in a sad mediums. That is not learning that is remaining ignorant and refusing to learn, change and grow better.


Its not science. Its common sense. Actually nearly all advances in nutrient formulations and growing methodologies such as hydro, aero, NTF, HP aero, air atomized aero, even aquaculture bubbleponics, water soluble nutrients, chelates are a result of science. As well as advancement in lighting, CO2 supplementation, the use of supplements. Lots of science their child. Actually about all beyond the basic dirt type growing your doing is due to science child. Oh that is right, you have advanced to a soil replacement medium and advanced to a 1970 stage of using drip irrigation and water soluble fertilizer. That means your only about 40 years in the past child. As far as common sense I tried that method with you also. Your head strong and that is evident by the hilarious things you post and the method you choose to grow pot. Perhaps you should buddy up with dirt farmer Uncle Ben.

Now why do you go and get some. Common sense I have plenty of child. What I am short of is the pate patience need to deal with your ludicrous posts anymore. Your grammar is even worse than mine. How far through school did you make it? 9 th grade, Eight?

Ba da, ba da Boom child.
 

mr.smileyface

Well-Known Member
WHats dirt? I was talking about soilLESS. You know.. Passive HYDROPONICS. Your not so smart. Your starting out on the wrong foot puppy.

ANd when im running a drip system on a V garden. That is hydroponics right? When im feeding hydroponics nutes.

Actually child it is simply a drip irrigation of a potting soil grow using a soluble fertilizer. That is not hydroponics. Hydroponics is growing in an inert non absorbent media. In reality DWC, bubbleponics nor any grow using an organic or absorbent material is hydroponics. DWC is aquaculture. Bubbleponics is principally aqua culture. Any growth in a absorbent organically based medium is simply a soil grow regardless of the nutrients used or how the are applied. your "victory garden is simply a soil type grow irrigated with drip emitters, not hydroponics.

Its not a myth that plants need water before cutting them. I did not claim a plants need for water was a myth simpleton. ITS COMMON SENSE. Wow you are something child. No facts need to prove that FLushing water helps how your weed burns and how white the ash is. Your entitled to your funny opinions child. BUt there is evidence proving that water makes your dope burn better. What?
I bet your "weed" That you "grow" is nice and crackly. Burns nice and black just the way you like it. I have no idea of what you are even trying to save Child and I really doubt that you do either. Your just jabbering and saying nothing. Everything I grow and cure burns without bitterness, crackling or black ashes. There is no green taste nor bitterness nor bad tastes child.

While i have people screaming for my packs. I still have no idea what you are saying. Is that some new wave street trash lingo child? Most people I know have grams, eights, quarters, ounces, kilos, pounds etc not packs. I have never even heard of a pack of bud. What country are you from child?

it goes 1.smell 2.looks 3.bud size/shape,4. Taste/how it burns. Sounds like a backward part of the world child. Or perhaps your just selling to too many children who have little real knowledge of mj buds. Most people I know judge it 1) Potency 2) Longevity of high 3) price 4) taste 5) moisture content 6) appearance 7) smell.

SOILLESS is Passive Hydroponics. Pro-mix is not classified as inert. It is classified as potting soil. IE soil. Passive. Wow, I can look at 10 different sites and likely get ten different defintions for a passive sytem absed upon waht they sell or promote. Your grow is just a limited mineral based based soil such as dirt but without any humus or partially digested organic matter. Instead you get nearly nutrient free peat moss. So you have nutrient free *rap wihich is highly absorbant that has a high CEC . A high CEC is the last thing you want for a Hydrpo grow so even if you choose to call your grow hydro you chose about the worse medium you could possibly pick for a medium Child. You can flood peat moss dozens of times and still it will contain nutrients. You have the organic matter plus minerals that are treated to make them have specific qualities desired for potting soil. Your potting soil is only inert in that it contains nearly no nutritional value when you bought it. How ever hydroponics is a methodology for non absorbent medias. You pour water soluble nutrients on peat mosss and they rtake up and hold onto huge amounts of nutrients. That is CEC, adsorption amnd holding onto nutrients. Peta moss is specifically not used by knowledgable growers due to its high CEC child.

Perhaps haps you put way to much faith in the stupid stuff some retailers put up on the web. Try reading from scholarly papers so you are not just listening to garbage info geared around selling products.. All the ingredients in Pro-mix are absorbent. Drip emitters due not make a system hydro, nor does using soluble fertilizers. Hell, Dyna-gro is now saying that they sell a hydro-pi oic fertilizers for soils that are nearly depleted of all nutrients. Does that make growing in that soil with sprayer or drip irrigation with water soluble hydroponics. No it just means using drip irrigation or sprayer and water soluble fertilizer on a nearly depleted soil grow.

I would do an active system but im not there so often

Wow you invented a new field of growing for simpletons called passive Hydroponics? What ever child. You simply grow mj in pro-mix (peat moss-vermiculite-perlite) a potting mix made for house plants. Are you really so simple brained. That growing method was abandoned by likely 95% of mj in door growers several decades ago.

Hydroponics is the growing in an inert soilless, organic free non absorbent medium using a water soluble chemical nutrient through a method which applies nutrients in water to the roots surfaces and media surfaces. Even growth in vermiculite or perlite is not hydroponics as they are absorbent. Even hydroton and rock wool are questionable due their water retention in pores or between fibers.

In reality hydroponics is pretty much limited to growing aero or in inert medias sauch as gravel, sand, marbles, plastic pellet, bio balls etc with water soluble, chemical (mineral) fertilizers. The fact that a water soluble fertilizer is used on other medias does not make that method hydroponics.


Yo fatty. Dude I can flame you out with some nasty names if that is what you really wish.

Before you go around talking about this. Why do you try it and learn how to do it.

Your a funny child!!!! Dude I grew out of your ancient growing methods over 30 years ago. Why would I again ever want to consider wasting my time and money on an inefficient growing system like an old school peat moss grow.

I learnt from mistakes. Im on here to learn different methods of growing. Well it seems you headed in the wrong direction if you think I am talking trash child.

You definitely are not showing her here to try to learn judging by your recent posts. What you are doing is growing in antiquated methods in a sad mediums. That is not learning that is remaining ignorant and refusing to learn, change and grow better.


Its not science. Its common sense. Actually nearly all advances in nutrient formulations and growing methodologies such as hydro, aero, NTF, HP aero, air atomized aero, even aquaculture bubbleponics, water soluble nutrients, chelates are a result of science. As well as advancement in lighting, CO2 supplementation, the use of supplements. Lots of science their child. Actually about all beyond the basic dirt type growing your doing is due to science child. Oh that is right, you have advanced to a soil replacement medium and advanced to a 1970 stage of using drip irrigation and water soluble fertilizer. That means your only about 40 years in the past child. As far as common sense I tried that method with you also. Your head strong and that is evident by the hilarious things you post and the method you choose to grow pot. Perhaps you should buddy up with dirt farmer Uncle Ben.

Now why do you go and get some. Common sense I have plenty of child. What I am short of is the pate patience need to deal with your ludicrous posts anymore. Your grammar is even worse than mine. How far through school did you make it? 9 th grade, Eight?

Ba da, ba da Boom child.
Ok where is your book?? Your are going against facts here fatty. "Passive System rely on capillary action to transfer the nutrient solution from the reservoir to the growing MEDIUM.
"Hydroponics is the Science:dunce: of growing plants with-out soil, most often in a soilless mix. IN FACT, many growers are already cultivating hydroponicaly. Cultivating clones in rockwool,PEATmoss, and coco fiber is growing hydroponicaly.
I just use pro-mix because its less maintaining as more forgiving.
Im not saying im a pro grower. Ive been looking into flood and drain systems and rockwool.
But im just saying that this is hydroponics that im growing in. You think your so smart. DO you even grow?? You just read up all day.
ASK ANY grower if flushing makes a differnce on bud quality. You know what carbs are?? Or did you pass the simply points of growing.
Your making yourself look dumb on this site. All you old guys have developed some sort of pyscosis. Believing your own ideas. lol
"Mineral growing mediums are inert and do not react with living organisms or chemicals to change the integrity of the nutrient solution. Coco coir and peat mosses are also inert"

If i was with the plants 24/7 maybe i could be there to moniter the PH/PPM
top offs and res changes. But i cant.
Your facing the facts. Your going against a 20 year old kid. Who is proving you wrong. I have 4 under my belt and im not saying im a pro.
Hydroponics may seem be the science of growing. But im saying its not rocket science. Its simple science, cause im a simple young man.
:eyesmoke:
 
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