Let's talk serious SCROG

rslaven87

Well-Known Member
Yeah, a 6x6 is kind of an awkward size for a 1k to cover. I think you'll struggle with the width. Typically, I shoot for one thou per 4x4 area on a wing, but a mover I wouldn't stretch past a 4x8 area. Your corners will miss light. Consider a couple 600s on the mover?
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I agree with the above I tried to use a mover to cover more area... Just caused a higher amount of fluffy buds in a larger area as opposed to denser buds in a smaller area. Great for very even coverage. But there is no substitute for raw wattage
 

profgrow

Active Member
It was hard to take this picture, and even harder to post it but let this be a warning; Contamination is bad!

The plant on the left got contaminated, the plant on the right is doing just fine.

 

GreatwhiteNorth

Global Moderator
Staff member
It was hard to take this picture, and even harder to post it but let this be a warning; Contamination is bad!

The plant on the left got contaminated, the plant on the right is doing just fine.

You were the source of the contamination I assume - did you ever pin down the culprit chem?

My condolences.
 

profgrow

Active Member
My experience with dwc has been less than satisfactory, I understand that this failure was my own fault but the downsides of dwc are popping up all over the place. Res temps are higher than I would like, the res isn't easily accessible (probably something I could have avoided) and flushing and cleaning during a scrog cycle is close to impossible (without damaging the plant).

I'm going to continue running dwc while I work the kinks out but I have 2 Afghan/skunk plants in small soil pots, root bound and in stasis, that I am thinking about running a soiless grow with.

Basically what I'm seeing people using is a combination of castings, vermiculite and pearlite. There are hundreds of different compound combinations that people, of course "swear by". What I'm confused by while doing initial research is; most growers are introducing additives (alfalfa tabs etc) to supply nutrient for the beginning of the grow, usually 4 weeks of veg. My questions are; why build your mixture with a nutrient when you can just control nutrients with watering? Does anyone here use promix or do you just mix your own? Has anyone seen a thread that really outlines soiless and how to use it effectively?
 

profgrow

Active Member
You were the source of the contamination I assume - did you ever pin down the culprit chem?

My condolences.
Thank you sir.

I work with a chemical called "monomer", it's a bonding agent for polymer and acrylic fabrication, its very toxic and I literally get it all over my hands while I work (I know, not so great). There is a chance that I didn't scrub my hands enough before mixing one of my water buckets. The reason I am considering it as a possibility is; The same bucket was used to mix nutes for one of my vegging girls and she also fell violently ill in the same time frame. The bucket may have been exposed to another contaminant while it sat empty but it has since been treated with food grade peroxide so I will never actually know.
 

thunderbay

Well-Known Member
Don't know if I'm in trouble or not. My main concern is a spot of yellowing the rest of the canopy looks fairly healthy by comparison first pic shows close up then 2nd pic shows comparison area. Then some pics of my canopy. I noticed some down turned leaves though I fed Thur with Novaflora bloom 3tsp/gal. next leaves under canopy are wilting and dying Think I read that was to be expected donno know if I should be in panic mode or not any help appreciated
 

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profgrow

Active Member
The yellowing looks like overheating, if the spot thats yellowing is far from a fan and getting little airflow it could just be getting toasted. Otherwise its the lower amounts of nitrogen in your bloom nutes causing a slight deficiency, either way it doesn't look like you need to be concerned yet. The dying undergrowth is standard, pluck them off so you don't get mold and you will do fine.
 

thunderbay

Well-Known Member
The yellowing looks like overheating, if the spot thats yellowing is far from a fan and getting little airflow it could just be getting toasted. Otherwise its the lower amounts of nitrogen in your bloom nutes causing a slight deficiency, either way it doesn't look like you need to be concerned yet. The dying undergrowth is standard, pluck them off so you don't get mold and you will do fine.
hoping to hear something like that.....would you say 30 days till finish ?
 

thunderbay

Well-Known Member
35 days in flower
best pic, worried, getting worse, upon very close inspection seeing this in other places
Phosphorus deficiency?
 

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legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I agree that it is phosphorous.. and it looks pretty mank at this point. are you in soil or hydro?

General recommendation if in hydro.. remix your nutes, back off a little on the micro nutrients, go a little heavier on the bloom formula. Get your ph in between 6.2-6.5. The leaves won't repair themselves but the problem should stop spreading.

General recommendation if in soil... go hydro :)
 

thunderbay

Well-Known Member
I agree that it is phosphorous.. and it looks pretty mank at this point. are you in soil or hydro?

General recommendation if in hydro.. remix your nutes, back off a little on the micro nutrients, go a little heavier on the bloom formula. Get your ph in between 6.2-6.5. The leaves won't repair themselves but the problem should stop spreading.

General recommendation if in soil... go hydro :)
of course in soil. hope you're not saying in soil they are doomed.....only been feeding floranova bloom 3tsp/gal. twice a week need to up that ?
 
If you raised the screen each time a top gets to it then youd be negating the purpose of the screen! One wants the plants to grow under and along the screen. Each time a tip comes through then simply pull it back under and out to the next square further away. One wants to have the main branches at a parallel plane w/ the screen. The hormone messages that you were speaking of to make the plant branch out happen naturally by keeping the plant under the screen and allowing each top to be at about the same height. This hormone is called Auxins and they basically are concentrated greater at the highest top. By keeping the tops at the same level the auxin concentrations level out and each tip basically becomes equal, more or less. Training plants really just tricks the plant into distributing auxin concentrations and results in uniformity of branch height. basically speaking
 
just finished the entire thread...you guys have given some great info...thanks

also wanted to say, prof i'm really sorry bout your girl -.- we spend so much time and energy, it always sux to lose one

good luck with her sister
 

profgrow

Active Member
just finished the entire thread...you guys have given some great info...thanks

also wanted to say, prof i'm really sorry bout your girl -.- we spend so much time and energy, it always sux to lose one

good luck with her sister

Thank you, I'm very glad you have enjoyed the thread!

The sis is fine so far, only a few weeks til harvest so hopefully she will tough it out so I can start my next batch!
 

mrt1980

Well-Known Member
sorry to hear whats happened prof hope the other stays strong till harvest.

legall or prof what hydro system would you recomend? i want to go hydro but i had to save a bit first and i heared soil was a bit easier, by the time these are done i should have enough, i was thinking of a wilma big 4, dont know if you've heared of it. or spending a bit more on a dwc setup
thanks
 
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