These little bastards have killed an auto seedling, and now it's moving onto my clones. My MAIN grow is infested with this shit. I have tried using little cups of honey to catch/kill them, eucalyptus oil/water spray solution, peat moss to keep them from being able to burrow again. I can't find dimaeteous earth anywhere, I've heard that works... Any other methods work for you guys? Thanks in advance
Mold Gnats
- Thread starter Slappy92
- Start date
tony1960
Member
Oh I had been hit hard by those little critters too. They are a very serious invader and you will need to fight them with determination. To knock them out for starters you can use 5 oz of drugstore hydrogen peroxide per gallon and flush them well. That will knock out the mold they feed on. Then use Azamax at full strength per label directions weekly for several weeks to keep the infestation down. If plants are badly damaged then it's pretty much a kill and start over situation. In hydroponics, mosquito dunks also help keep them down. Keep up sticky traps to monitor the flyers but it's not the flyers that really do the damage it's the nymphs.
Nullis
Moderator
If you have an infestation you're going to need to take a few steps to get the populations down considerably.
First step is to just grab a vacuum and suck those little fuckers to a dusty end. Vacuum around the pots, near the soil surface... where ever you see them. It is best to do this while watering. When you flood the soil surface they are going to fly up in an effort to not be drowned; but you'll be waiting there with the vacuum on and the nozzle ready to take them away. If severe you should take an effort to vaccum away as many of the adults as you can.
Pyrethrin as a botanically-derived insecticide that kills on contact and breaks down within several hours, it is no toxic to birds, mammals or amphibians and leaves no toxic residues which is ideal for our purposes. The spray is widely available, again at most home improvement centers. I am pretty sure this is the same stuff as Dr. Doom, only that brand costs more than it should. This is also good for killing adults on the soil surface.
Mosquito Dunks or Bacillus thuringiensis isreali (Bti) is a natural bacterium that produces a larvacide which is toxic only to a handful of species of insect larvae including fungus gnats and mosquitoes. It is widely available in compressed circular pucks under the brand name Mosquito Dunks, sold in most home improvement centers. They also sell Mosquito Bits, which is the same thing and other brand is Gnatrol but these products are usually less available. If you get dunks you use them by soaking in a bucket of water over night and irrigating. This should kill most of the larvae.
Then of course you should have yellow sticky traps around and Safer brand or Gnat-Stix sticky traps in the containers. But it is hard to bring absolute elimination if you have a lot of plants, house plants, etc. Biological controls are really the best.
I recently noticed herds of micro-arthropods (Hypoaspis or predatory mites I suspect) in my organic soil and consequently gnat populations there have dwindled fantastically.
First step is to just grab a vacuum and suck those little fuckers to a dusty end. Vacuum around the pots, near the soil surface... where ever you see them. It is best to do this while watering. When you flood the soil surface they are going to fly up in an effort to not be drowned; but you'll be waiting there with the vacuum on and the nozzle ready to take them away. If severe you should take an effort to vaccum away as many of the adults as you can.
Pyrethrin as a botanically-derived insecticide that kills on contact and breaks down within several hours, it is no toxic to birds, mammals or amphibians and leaves no toxic residues which is ideal for our purposes. The spray is widely available, again at most home improvement centers. I am pretty sure this is the same stuff as Dr. Doom, only that brand costs more than it should. This is also good for killing adults on the soil surface.
Mosquito Dunks or Bacillus thuringiensis isreali (Bti) is a natural bacterium that produces a larvacide which is toxic only to a handful of species of insect larvae including fungus gnats and mosquitoes. It is widely available in compressed circular pucks under the brand name Mosquito Dunks, sold in most home improvement centers. They also sell Mosquito Bits, which is the same thing and other brand is Gnatrol but these products are usually less available. If you get dunks you use them by soaking in a bucket of water over night and irrigating. This should kill most of the larvae.
Then of course you should have yellow sticky traps around and Safer brand or Gnat-Stix sticky traps in the containers. But it is hard to bring absolute elimination if you have a lot of plants, house plants, etc. Biological controls are really the best.
I recently noticed herds of micro-arthropods (Hypoaspis or predatory mites I suspect) in my organic soil and consequently gnat populations there have dwindled fantastically.
tristynhawk
Well-Known Member
sounds like my problem think they came from organic soil
Ku$hking3883
Active Member
vent your room better maybe? I use organic soil and only get them if the pots aren't drying out fast enough
Cali.Grown>408
Well-Known Member
SAND bro SAND is your best friend..get some now lol
Ku$hking3883
Active Member
just trying to give good avice you wannabe know it all assholeSure... that's what it is...
Fungus gnats are a sing that your pots are staying to wet so vent your room better ass another fan. and im SURE THATS WHAT IS CAUSING IT
snew
Well-Known Member
"
Mosquito Dunks or Bacillus thuringiensis isreali (Bti) is a natural bacterium that produces a larvacide which is toxic only to a handful of species of insect larvae including fungus gnats and mosquitoes...."
I didn't know Bt was good for fungus gnats but its a great product. Its ready available in liquid to us in a sprayer or if you prefer a powder called "Dipel Dust" is very common. I am a chronic over water. So I've had a little gnat problem. The first thing I do is bottom water. I use big trays so I can put a lot of water in at one time. The surface stays dry and the problem ends. If that did not work I believe I would try fabric mulch - landscaping fabric. This would allow water, air and nutrients to pass freely, but would not allow the gnats escape. Now the bottom water and a sticky trap have always worked for me.
Mosquito Dunks or Bacillus thuringiensis isreali (Bti) is a natural bacterium that produces a larvacide which is toxic only to a handful of species of insect larvae including fungus gnats and mosquitoes...."
I didn't know Bt was good for fungus gnats but its a great product. Its ready available in liquid to us in a sprayer or if you prefer a powder called "Dipel Dust" is very common. I am a chronic over water. So I've had a little gnat problem. The first thing I do is bottom water. I use big trays so I can put a lot of water in at one time. The surface stays dry and the problem ends. If that did not work I believe I would try fabric mulch - landscaping fabric. This would allow water, air and nutrients to pass freely, but would not allow the gnats escape. Now the bottom water and a sticky trap have always worked for me.
He's actually right, that's what led it on, now they're infesting my soil haha. I use 5.5"x5.5" computer fans in a box, it's enough to keep the temp down, but not to actually move mass quantities of air. I'm gonna try the pyrethrin after I pick some up today and see how it goes, in part with the vinegar and sugar bowls, and diy sticky traps to kill the flyers.just trying to give good avice you wannabe know it all asshole
Fungus gnats are a sing that your pots are staying to wet so vent your room better ass another fan. and im SURE THATS WHAT IS CAUSING IT
abe supercro
Well-Known Member
don't forget silica sand and azatrol/neem drench. get the larvae.
Nullis
Moderator
I don't even see where that post went...deleted? odd, but whatever. I am a wannabe know it all asshole because I disagree?just trying to give good avice you wannabe know it all asshole
Fungus gnats are a sing that your pots are staying to wet so vent your room better ass another fan. and im SURE THATS WHAT IS CAUSING IT
Grow up man, I've dealt with fungus gnats for years; I gave ample good advice and a bit of my opinion. Sorry for the sarcasm, but you don't see me resort to degradation and name calling.
I always hear this and that about over watering being the cause of fungus gnats and that makes no sense to me. Granted, if you do over-water it can certainly exacerbate the issue but excess moisture is not the cause of fungus gnats. A single fungus gnat can lay hundreds of eggs. Those eggs eventually cause more larvae and then adult fungus gnats.
Another reason I respectfully disagree is because in the course of having issues with gnats for some time I have tried the let your pots dry out until the plant wilts method of eradication and guess what it didn't work by a long shot. I've left bone dry unused soil sitting out in open air and have witnessed it become a breeding ground for gnats.
Also, pool grade DE isn't suitable for pest control applications; it has been modified by heating and lacks the jagged/sharp edges that pierce through and dehydrate the insect.
I am soo fucking sorry that I do research and try out different things before coming to what I feel is a sound conclusion; and I apologize for sharing my advice/opinions with people. Just getting a bit tired of people thinking I intend to come off as an arrogant know it all asshole; maybe that's really who I am but shit if you think I am bad you haven't been around here long enough. Luckily I don't take life (or the internet) so seriously.
CanadianEh
Active Member
Calculate your rooms for negative pressure; it fends of bugs very nicely from my experience, they hate it.
Also, What I would do...repot them by cutting your main pots if the infestation is bad. You may never really get rid of them untill you repot; vacume your room. I had MG soils that did this and I tried sand, soap, hardcore organic larve killer. Nothing really got rid of them 100%, now with repotted soil without gnats I have 0 bug issues; repot with watering method.
But you can get dolomite earth and be done with it (put a layer of this). I just dont like the idea of letting my babies live with the odd larve eating at its roots.
Good soil = good bud; the foundation of all grows starts at the soil.
Also, What I would do...repot them by cutting your main pots if the infestation is bad. You may never really get rid of them untill you repot; vacume your room. I had MG soils that did this and I tried sand, soap, hardcore organic larve killer. Nothing really got rid of them 100%, now with repotted soil without gnats I have 0 bug issues; repot with watering method.
But you can get dolomite earth and be done with it (put a layer of this). I just dont like the idea of letting my babies live with the odd larve eating at its roots.
Good soil = good bud; the foundation of all grows starts at the soil.
Nullis
Didn't know about the pool grade DE not being suitable for pest control. I had a DE filter back in Fl., but never used the DE for anything else. Just knew that Lowes and HD had it, since the OP said he couldn't locate it.
You're right about the overly moist conditions exacerbating the problem, but not actually causing it. But what does? I have a organic mix and have never had fungus gnats. I do keep everything on the dry side, but you did also, so???? Perhaps the amount of perlite I use? I like a light mix and eyeball my perlite, but it's 30-40%. I figured I might get some when I started using my own EWC, but it didn't happen then either.
Now I'm curious as to what attracts them in the first place.
Wet
Didn't know about the pool grade DE not being suitable for pest control. I had a DE filter back in Fl., but never used the DE for anything else. Just knew that Lowes and HD had it, since the OP said he couldn't locate it.
You're right about the overly moist conditions exacerbating the problem, but not actually causing it. But what does? I have a organic mix and have never had fungus gnats. I do keep everything on the dry side, but you did also, so???? Perhaps the amount of perlite I use? I like a light mix and eyeball my perlite, but it's 30-40%. I figured I might get some when I started using my own EWC, but it didn't happen then either.
Now I'm curious as to what attracts them in the first place.
Wet
CanadianEh
Active Member
Most conditions; you can water lightly keeping the soil fairly dry to ever prevent the eggs from hatching.
Too much per-lite I think, 20-25% so be enough? Its holding the moisture against the eggs.
Too much per-lite I think, 20-25% so be enough? Its holding the moisture against the eggs.
Ku$hking3883
Active Member
ok man you come off like a smart ass and a bit of a crybaby. research my ass I found this in 5 sec on e-how smart guy and heres another real good link on it ~All About Fungus Gnats~
Fungus gnats are those little hopping bugs you see when you water your indoor plants. They are 1/32 to 1/50 inches with black or gray bodies and clear wings. Plants grown under cover are most susceptible. The larvae feed on dead roots and leaves, but sometimes consume tender new roots.Heres a ~link~ for a good brand. I use it the second I see one of those little winged bastards. I just put it in a pepper shaker and use it when you see um kinda like putting parmesan cheese on a piece of pizza. I have had no negative effects on my garden. for real theres not that big of deal of you get on um Fungus Gnats
1
Look for small insects on the surface of the soil. They will be active when you water or move the plant. The larvae are 1/4 inch white-bodied maggots with black heads and can be found just under the surface of the soil.
2
Keep plants clean of fallen leaves and debris. Fungus gnats feed on dead plant material.
3
Plant pots of wheat to lure fungus gnats, then compost the soil and the wheat once the female fungus gnats have laid their eggs in the pots. This technique works well in greenhouses or greenhouse windows.
4
Use yellow sticky traps placed near the infested plant to catch adult fungus gnats.
5
Water with a solution of Bacillus thuringiensis, an organic control for caterpillars, to kill insect larvae. Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is a bacteria and is safe to use around children and pets.
6
Drench the soil with a solution of pyrethrin, an organic pesticide made from chrysanthemums.
Heres a ~link~ for a good brand. I use it the second I see one of those little winged bastards. I just put it in a pepper shaker and use it when you see um kinda like putting parmesan cheese on a piece of pizza. I have had no negative effects on my garden. for real theres not that big of deal of you get on um Fungus Gnats
Nullis
Moderator
... And how do you suppose you come off to me? Am I cussing at you and calling you names like a child?
Aside from that I guess I don't see what you're on about... so you did your own research, Good for you? Looks like some of the same advice I gave; is the author of that article also a wannabe know it all?
IF you're over-watering, by all means stop - it certainly might help. But over-watering doesn't CAUSE fungus gnats like people seem to think. It is important to realize this if you actually have fungus gnats but do water properly - and this does indeed happen, but if you haven't actually had them or witnessed for yourself where they are capable of laying eggs then how can you have such a huge opinion about it?
Wetdog, my soil would have a higher content of organic matter. I might not had such a problem with them if I had taken every preventative measure I could have in the first place, including those I now recommend, but because I didn't enough of them apparently survived in some container somewhere and then they spread to any other plants in the house where the opportunity existed. The cause of fungus gnats is indeed other fungus gnats; they are small enough to get through most window screens and are a very popular insect outdoors all over the place.
But outdoors they have plenty of predators that keep their populations in check; inside this isn't the case. The problem always starts small, but even with just a handful of fungus gnats in the area and soil on the dry side - enough of those eggs are going to make it to the larval stage because each gnat can lay hundreds of eggs.
As well, just because you can't see the predators doesn't mean they are not there. Nematodes in garden compost and micro-arthropods like the aforementioned Hypoaspis are avid fungus gnat predators. But these might not always be around in bagged soil which has been left to thoroughly dry out. Even nematodes and Hypoaspis mites like it slightly moist. I had noticed little mites in the soil before and they seemed to be keeping the gnats in check, but I would always start again with fresh soil and thus lose their protection (and with house plants galore it is very easy for a few gnats to survive through to the next round).
I've noticed them again more recently, just as I was slacking off with the other controls (I am far from perfect and I can definitely get lazy)... but the gnat populations kept dwindling. Oh yah, and sometimes I get so lazy I don't even feel like watering my plants; so they certainly do tend to be on the dry side. I notice a gnat here or there in the grow room, that's it, but when I look closely at the soil surface I can now see it is swarming with little tan colored mites.
I believe it is past the point where the mite population has surpassed their food source in terms of the gnats, but these guys are supposed to be able to subsist on either decaying vegetation or possibly bacteria as well.
Still thinking about spreading the mites to each and every plant I have including the seedlings. I might even farm the mites as well as the fungus gnats so I'd always have larvae on hand to keep them happy... but that might be a tad crazy.
Ku$hking3883
Active Member
sure sure read what the facts are and shut up. I'm done wasting my time reading your B.S