Plant problem... top leaves 'drooping', curling downward like 'claws'... help!

My plants have seemed progressively 'droopier' the last few days. At first it was only during the dark part of the cycle but now its most the day. My plants are GDP and are 2 weeks into flower. Temperature has been a bit erratic recently, dropping to around 60 during the dark part of the cycle, and mid 70s during light cycle.

The issue is the the leaves are not sticking out - reaching - as they did, particularly newer leaves on the top. THey are curling downward like claws. They are dark green.. I'm not sure I'd call them 'purple', but they do seem to darker than ideal. The issue is primarily affecting the largest plants, but some of the smaller ones are exhibiting it too.

After reading up on the grow bible, it sounds like the most obvious culprit has to do with watering... but if it is, I'm not sure whether its over, or under-watering.

I have two trays, a 3x6 and a 3x3. The 3x3 is attached to a standard 400gph pump, and is currently flooded for 10 minutes at the beginning of the light cycle. The second is a slightly more interesting case.... the 3x6 is attached to a 1200gph pump. With a 40 gallon reservoir, it'll drain the entire reservoir (and flood the tray full) in 2 minutes... at which point I have to let it drain or the pump sucks on air. Since the tray isn't flooded as long, I have had it flood more often. Last night it flooded twice... at 10pm and 12:30 am, 12:30.

The problem is present on both trays, though its more pronounced on the 3x6 because most of the large plants are on that tray (doing a semi-SOG grow on the 3x3). Ideally, yes, I'd change it to a smaller pump but it does seem to work and until recently everything was okay. Besides, the issue isn't only affecting this tray.

I lean towards 'under' watering, because its mostly affecting the bigger plants (which I think would be the least susceptible to over-watering, since they can use more water), and because its happening mostly on the 3x6 tray, which is only flooded for two extremely short timeframes.

I'm looking through some of the 'self-diagnosis' threads and it seems a few other things might be doing it. So I figured I'd post the symptoms and pics and see what you say. Thanks for the help!


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thexception

Well-Known Member
the "claw" is usually a sign of too much N & ur new growth looks like salt buildup with temperature stress
 
k i'm moving the lights up a few inches (were 16-18 inches, now closer to 24)... should help with heat. Too much N makes a bit of sense too... while waiting for some nutes to ship I used some storebought stuff from Osh... some 10-10-5 stuff that wasn't specifically meant for hydro. Probably best to get that out of there.

Not sure what to do about salt buildup. Should I flush with just water for a few days and then go back to the advanced nutrient lineup i had been using?
 
Okay, well on Thursday I changed out the nutrient mixture... the ppms are a little lighter, and for the moment its lower on nitrogen. After 3 days the plants don't look much different... any more ideas?
 
my temperature gauge does indicate it got pretty hot the last few days (a peak of 87 degrees... eek). i had taken the glass off the lights a week or two ago because it was getting too cold, but it appears that the glass needs to stay on. its back on, clean and the room shouldn't be anywhere near as warm from here on out.

also going to try an additional watering now to see if it helps at all.
 

zognogin

Well-Known Member
I would leave the watering as it was, personally I would give it nuteless water a few times. Id say twice. 1 nuteless, 1 with nutes, 1 nuteless, then back to normal.
 
hmm. no really easy way to change water in and out like that. i'll see how it responds to the temperatures being lower first I guess. any reason they wouldn't recover? how long should it be til' i start seeing them perking up again?
 
Its like watching clowns at the circus.
i'm trying here... as suggested earlier, i am going to water with just ph adjusted tap water tonight. the water will drain into the current reservoir... in theory, the ppms should end up around 1000 afterwards. hopefully the temperature issue is no longer a factor with the glass back on. other than that, I'm not sure what else I should be doing... feel free to enlighten me though.
 
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