Anybody Want To Double Their Yield?- Desertrat's Top and Prune?

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
Your results are not as obvious as you may think..

You also have the reflector mostly positioned over the plant on the right..
True. Now, if he did another grow with the pruned plant on the left and it still weighed more would you believe it?
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
True. Now, if he did another grow with the pruned plant on the left and it still weighed more would you believe it?
sure, pic is worth a thousand words, and as I said earlier in the thread I am gonna do it to one of my 4 that I just started
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
sure, pic is worth a thousand words, and as I said earlier in the thread I am gonna do it to one of my 4 that I just started
Cool. I am not trying to defend Desert Rat here, I am trying to defend the scientific method ;]
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
I would love to see some good pics on the pruning method, stairstep. if you already posted some can you tell me what page they are on.i would do this on a clone just to see for myself.
 

desertrat

Well-Known Member
So, I'm:

Fully treated with my best available med,

Dead on my ass from driving over 800 miles in 13 hours

Extremely pissed at ms. Rat,

But is it just possible that there has been some gross miscommunication about this pruning method? I was thinking back to UB's comment about no main branch and went back and re-read my description of the stair-step pruning method and realized some people are probably reading something into what I wrote that was not intended. Anyway, to be more clear, I am talking about cutting only 4 or 5 leaves from any plant. No more. And those leaves are going to be in places on the plant that effectively get no light by the time the plant's flowering.

Doesn't that make this less controversial? :peace::mrgreen:bongsmilie
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
I just want to make sure i'm on the same page as you with pruning,if i dont get it right it wont be a fair comparison right?
 

Weedoozie

Well-Known Member
So, I'm:

Fully treated with my best available med,

Dead on my ass from driving over 800 miles in 13 hours

Extremely pissed at ms. Rat,

But is it just possible that there has been some gross miscommunication about this pruning method? I was thinking back to UB's comment about no main branch and went back and re-read my description of the stair-step pruning method and realized some people are probably reading something into what I wrote that was not intended. Anyway, to be more clear, I am talking about cutting only 4 or 5 leaves from any plant. No more. And those leaves are going to be in places on the plant that effectively get no light by the time the plant's flowering.

Doesn't that make this less controversial? :peace::mrgreen:bongsmilie
I agree that this makes more sense and less controversial! Thanks for clearing that up, this way the pruning method you've described could work wonders for those bottom bud sites
 

desertrat

Well-Known Member
I just want to make sure i'm on the same page as you with pruning,if i dont get it right it wont be a fair comparison right?
I would love to see some good pics on the pruning method, stairstep. if you already posted some can you tell me what page they are on.i would do this on a clone just to see for myself.
took me awhile to put together the diagram:

Slide2.jpg

you cut off one leaf from each node, starting at the bottom and working your way around the plant until you reach the node you topped/fimmed.
 

desertrat

Well-Known Member
A leaf will only absorb roughly 15% of the light that strikes it and the remaining roughly 85% passes through to then strike lower leaves so leaves do not actually block as much light as some people believe they do.
this didn't sound right when posted but it took me awhile to get around to it. sorry, this is another myth. for example, my light meter had 1,750 lumens per square foot next to a leaf and 150 lumens per square foot underneath it. it may very well be true that the chlorophyl only absorbs 15% of light hitting the plant, but almost all of the rest of the light is reflected back or transformed into heat energy and radiated back.
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
this didn't sound right when posted but it took me awhile to get around to it. sorry, this is another myth. for example, my light meter had 1,750 lumens per square foot next to a leaf and 150 lumens per square foot underneath it. it may very well be true that the chlorophyl only absorbs 15% of light hitting the plant, but almost all of the rest of the light is reflected back or transformed into heat energy and radiated back.
hmmm,got me thinking.
 

genuity

Well-Known Member
Chlorophyll a is a large molecule that has a "head" called a porphyrin ring with a magnesium atom at its center.


ChlorophyllAttached to the porphyrin is a long, insoluble carbon-hydrogen chain which interacts with the proteins of the thylakoids and serves to anchor the molecule in the internal membranes of the chloroplast. Chlorophyll a is the pigment that participates directly in the light requiring reactions of photosynthesis. Chlorophyll b differs from chlorophyll a only in one of the functional groups bonded to the porphyrin (a -CHO group in place of a -CH3 group). It is an accessory pigment and acts indirectly in photosynthesis by transferring the light it absorbs to chlorophyll a. Alternating single and double bonds, known as conjugated bonds, such as those in the porphyrin ring of chlorophylls, are common among pigments, and are responsible for the absorption of visible light by these substances. Both chlorophylls a and b primarily absorb red and blue light, the colors most effective in photosynthesis. They reflect or transmit green light, which is why leaves appear green. The ratio of chlorophyll a to chlorophyll b in the chloroplast is 3:1.

if we could only change the ratio 2:2.
 

buzzpopper

Well-Known Member
I have read all 24 pages of this topic.

I have 30 years of gardening and farming experience (I hate to say that cause it makes you sound like an instant poser). There are only three reason to prune any plant be it cannabis or grapes. Those reasons are plant health, control growth or to increase plant yield. Any other argument about botany is redundant.

To understand the "why" of pruning it is highly important that you learn about terminal buds These are the growth buds at the ends of all branches and by cutting to every other leaf you are redirecting the the hormones or auxins produced within the original terminal bud to the next lower bud which will produce higher auxins and thus produce multiple terminal buds its called survival. Something I have always grinned at when folks came out tooting the horn about topping plants.

This technic has been used by fruit and flower farmers for years.

What I would like to know is what is you current temp difference between lights on and lights off in veg and flower?

This is really more important than the plant slowing down after the cutting. Its is going to slow down you just cut to energy source in half and it has to be redirected. A simple ten degrees diff during lights out will make a huge difference in plant yields.
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
I have read all 24 pages of this topic.

I have 30 years of gardening and farming experience (I hate to say that cause it makes you sound like an instant poser). There are only three reason to prune any plant be it cannabis or grapes. Those reasons are plant health, control growth or to increase plant yield. Any other argument about botany is redundant.

To understand the "why" of pruning it is highly important that you learn about terminal buds These are the growth buds at the ends of all branches and by cutting to every other leaf you are redirecting the the hormones or auxins produced within the original terminal bud to the next lower bud which will produce higher auxins and thus produce multiple terminal buds its called survival. Something I have always grinned at when folks came out tooting the horn about topping plants.

This technic has been used by fruit and flower farmers for years.

What I would like to know is what is you current temp difference between lights on and lights off in veg and flower?

This is really more important than the plant slowing down after the cutting. Its is going to slow down you just cut to energy source in half and it has to be redirected. A simple ten degrees diff during lights out will make a huge difference in plant yields.
Maybe I misread your post, but did you say that removing fan leaves is similar to topping?
 
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