Fissioning LED test run.

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Well, after months of waiting, the 4 test boards I was promised actually arrived.
Originally they were all 3000K lm301B diodes but when they told me they were working on a board with added 660nm Red in a 54V version, I opted to hold out for those.

Alas, ive thrown 2 per HLG-240H-C2100B in series creating 2 32" fixtures. The boards are 9.5" wide and 14" long.
The diode layout is awesome. I'll be throw-in them up in place of my original cob build from years ago.
More to come!!!
IMAG0535.jpg IMAG0536.jpg IMAG0537.jpg IMAG0538.jpg
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
The potentiometers aren't working on either driver, so I'm assuming I wired them the wrong way. It's been a long time...

White went to left pole added the 10K resistor to this lead,

Blue went to right pole

Middle pole was left unsoldered.

What's the correct way?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
After looking through some old pics, it's the far left and middle poles you use. But which goes to which poles?
 
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GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Yeah, on plain-jane pots it's always the center tap and either of the outer taps. The only time I've run into polarity issues was with a Rapidled dimmer(turns out it uses a digital convertor and uses power from the dimmer circuit to power it) so be aware of that possibility.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Yeah, on plain-jane pots it's always the center tap and either of the outer taps. The only time I've run into polarity issues was with a Rapidled dimmer(turns out it uses a digital convertor and uses power from the dimmer circuit to power it) so be aware of that possibility.
This is just a "plain Jane" pot. So we're sorted!!
 

eatled

Active Member
For years I have experimented with strips and uniformity. I can get great uniformity with strips.
One of the things I noticed with strips is the grow area need to be 1' less than the fixture dimensions.
This layout addresses the issue of many fixtures with the hot spot in the middle. It make sense to me.
I suspect this board may have very good uniformity like you say.

And yes the pot's wiper is always the center tap. Which side terminal you use depends on if you want clockwise or counter clockwise to increase/decrease intensity.
You do not need the 10K Ω resistor. IMHO it woks better without the resistor. Try shorting out the resistor and let me know what you think. Does the resistor add any functionality.
I find on some HLGs the LEDs will turn off when the pot is dialed down. That is not possible with the resistor.
 

weed-whacker

Well-Known Member
Thanks. This thread should really be stickied to the top of the LED section. There's loads of good info in it.
Sure do miss Gods like StardustSailor being around these parts .

Yeah guy was a legend, as was supra and dion over at icmag

Hey so these boards....? Not qb?
Mmmm

U gotta link? Gimme

Looking nice
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Nvm!! Got it all done, folks!! Now I can actually dim these suckers for Ya and take a pic.

Also found this old pic amongst my vast library to show me what was up.

View attachment 4375106 View attachment 4375109 View attachment 4375111
Could you explain the resistor. I thought that i had bought a 10k and it just got hooked right up to the driver leads.... Cant remember now
Also, is that another resistor under the white shrink on the center tab?
Looks like a nice light, that spacing looks pretty well thought out.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Could you explain the resistor. I thought that i had bought a 10k and it just got hooked right up to the driver leads.... Cant remember now
Also, is that another resistor under the white shrink on the center tab?
Looks like a nice light, that spacing looks pretty well thought out.
Positive gets resistor and always goes to middle pole. The negative goes to the outer pole, what side you choose determines which way will dim it to 0%.
And yes there's another resistor underneath, because those were 5.6K, so I had to use 2 to get close to 10K.(11.2)

Also, I can't remember if you're wiring 2 drivers to one pot, the pot has to be a 50K ohm pot, so I think the resistor is a 5K. I thought you doubled up on them for a second but that doesn't seem right.
 
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