Ttystikk's vertical goodness

Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Using the blowers from junk furnaces, they were free. Heat exchange cores were just $50 each, junkyard finds.

The whole setup is being kit bashed on the fly.
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I know....trust me, I respect that. I've built my lab using found stuff lol. I have about 10 of those blowers sitting around....you just never know what you'll need. I have three storage buildings and my tractor is parked under a tarp lol. I hope I get to watch the kids sorting through the stuff from above when I'm dead it'll be a hoot lol.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
I know....trust me, I respect that. I've built my lab using found stuff lol. I have about 10 of those blowers sitting around....you just never know what you'll need. I have three storage buildings and my tractor is parked under a tarp lol. I hope I get to watch the kids sorting through the stuff from above when I'm dead it'll be a hoot lol.
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Oh shit, do NOT validate my packrat tendencies like that! I'm bad enough as it is, just ask my friends!

I'm spending extra on inexpert tinwork but if it's functional that's what counts.
 
Michael Huntherz

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
You'll like the Jean Guy, I did try a few beans last year from Crop King but they didn't do well so were culled but probably my doing. I've smoked it a few times and was always impressed.
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I have a buddy who has grown it from three different beans, these are from House of the Great Gardener up there in Canuckia, this is a bean from him. Every run has been lime green skunky goodness, and it is often too potent for casual burners. I am sold, glad to hear the Crop King gear is solid too.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Michael Huntherz said:
I have a buddy who has grown it from three different beans, these are from House of the Great Gardener up there in Canuckia, this is a bean from him. Every run has been lime green skunky goodness, and it is often too potent for casual burners. I am sold, glad to hear the Crop King gear is solid too.
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Actually it was HOGG ... Sorry I'm starting to get confused breeder wise :(. When I first tried it was nothing about it other than legends lol.
 
febisfebi

febisfebi

Well-Known Member
@ttystikk I have been doing my best to catch up on your thread in what little spare time I have, but I have finaly gotten caught up from pg 129, which is when u had the cob's installed right? I remember you saying everything before that was a waste of time, lol.
Great work by the way, I am very intrigued by everything you are doing, I must say you are truly one of a kind! I was especially entertained when you posted the picture with the old lady (standing on a stool no less) in there for comparison's sake to show the scale of it all. Those are some massive plants, you got there. (wait, no those aren't plants, those are trees) how long do you veg those to get that big, and under what kind of luminaire? I seem to remember something about a 6 month veg, but Im pretty sure that was just that one plant, not normal operation, but I wouldn't be surprised, lol.

I am left with more questions than answers however, but i'll start with the water cooling system, since that's what I was originally asking you about.

As I understand it you are using a hollow rectuangular aluminum extrusion 1/16" thick, and something like 1"x2" (i forget the exact dimensions you said) and in maybe 2 or 3 foot sections, with cobs mounted them, and insulation around the rest, with chilled water running through them.

How are the cob's mounted to the thin aluminum. You obviously can't use screws on holders, or thru the chip, but then again, you are using lenses, so they are probably holding the cobs down. are you using holders, or are they soldered? How, and what are the lenses mounted to exactly? I can't imagine trying mount something solid, that can handle heat (eg. no structural solder joints), with nothing to screw into. how is your super waterproof (I assume) connection between the hosing that feeds these units and the units themselves, constructed? were you able to use some super cool adapter or did you have something custom made, and if so, how is it put together?

I could go on and on, but lets start with this. I would love to chat with you on skype or something sometime, I have a lot of questions, and ideas I would love to discuss with you! and You of all people know how long my posts can get more often than not, haha
Keep up the good work, and take care brother!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
febisfebi said:
@ttystikk I have been doing my best to catch up on your thread in what little spare time I have, but I have finaly gotten caught up from pg 129, which is when u had the cob's installed right? I remember you saying everything before that was a waste of time, lol.
Great work by the way, I am very intrigued by everything you are doing, I must say you are truly one of a kind! I was especially entertained when you posted the picture with the old lady (standing on a stool no less) in there for comparison's sake to show the scale of it all. Those are some massive plants, you got there. (wait, no those aren't plants, those are trees) how long do you veg those to get that big, and under what kind of luminaire? I seem to remember something about a 6 month veg, but Im pretty sure that was just that one plant, not normal operation, but I wouldn't be surprised, lol.

I am left with more questions than answers however, but i'll start with the water cooling system, since that's what I was originally asking you about.

As I understand it you are using a hollow rectuangular aluminum extrusion 1/16" thick, and something like 1"x2" (i forget the exact dimensions you said) and in maybe 2 or 3 foot sections, with cobs mounted them, and insulation around the rest, with chilled water running through them.

How are the cob's mounted to the thin aluminum. You obviously can't use screws on holders, or thru the chip, but then again, you are using lenses, so they are probably holding the cobs down. are you using holders, or are they soldered? How, and what are the lenses mounted to exactly? I can't imagine trying mount something solid, that can handle heat (eg. no structural solder joints), with nothing to screw into. how is your super waterproof (I assume) connection between the hosing that feeds these units and the units themselves, constructed? were you able to use some super cool adapter or did you have something custom made, and if so, how is it put together?

I could go on and on, but lets start with this. I would love to chat with you on skype or something sometime, I have a lot of questions, and ideas I would love to discuss with you! and You of all people know how long my posts can get more often than not, haha
Keep up the good work, and take care brother!
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My water cooling blocks are 2" tall x 4" wide x 3/16" thick. All holes into the block are drilled blind. COB LED is mounted directly on the face with TIM for maximum heat transfer.

Not sure what else you're asking?
 
febisfebi

febisfebi

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
My water cooling blocks are 2" tall x 4" wide x 3/16" thick. All holes into the block are drilled blind. COB LED is mounted directly on the face with TIM for maximum heat transfer.

Not sure what else you're asking?
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thats most of it, thats very intersting. I assume it was done on a drill press with a stop obviosly, and then whoever built it must have had to bottom out (or flatten out rather) the blind holes, with an endmill im guessing, then use a botttoming tap. What size/pitch threads do you mount with? Im, guessing you dont have any sort of holder under those lenses, so screws straight thru the holes in the cob, and soldered wires?. I was just wondering how the endcaps on the sections are constructed. do you have aluminum plate welded to the end with a hole through it, bulkhead adapter to hook up to the hoses? if not, how is that set up?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
febisfebi said:
thats most of it, thats very intersting. I assume it was done on a drill press with a stop obviosly, and then whoever built it must have had to bottom out (or flatten out rather) the blind holes, with an endmill im guessing, then use a botttoming tap. What size/pitch threads do you mount with? Im, guessing you dont have any sort of holder under those lenses, so screws straight thru the holes in the cob, and soldered wires?. I was just wondering how the endcaps on the sections are constructed. do you have aluminum plate welded to the end with a hole through it, bulkhead adapter to hook up to the hoses? if not, how is that set up?
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I don't think it took all those steps to drill some blind holes. I didn't do it. Threads match the screws used on the COB holders, yes that's how they're attached.

End caps welded on, drilled and tapped for 1/2" NPT. Holes drilled through dog ears for mounting.

Water stays inside, electronics stay outside and all's well with the world lol
 
febisfebi

febisfebi

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
I don't think it took all those steps to drill some blind holes. I didn't do it. Threads match the screws used on the COB holders, yes that's how they're attached.

End caps welded on, drilled and tapped for 1/2" NPT. Holes drilled through dog ears for mounting.

Water stays inside, electronics stay outside and all's well with the world lol
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I am a machinist by trade, although I stopped working at machine shops some years ago, by my own decisiion. I am quite sure however that is the only way to drill a true blind hole like that unless you have a lot of extra material to waste for the pointed end shape of a drillbit. Since the material is only 3/16" thick, perhaps they just skipped the drill bit alltogether, made sure the material was secured in a vise, and just cut the hole with a flat ended endmill. all of that can be done on a drillpress, with a vise or other securing jig, as long as your not trying to hold your material steady by hand, as the endmill will jerk the material around since there is no pointed end. Please dont anybody ever try that! it is likely that your hand will be the one with the hole in it. how deep do your m3 holes go thru the 3/16"? also just out of curiosity, aluminum welding requires special equipment and skill. What kind of money did you have to spend to get those endcaps welded on, if you dont mind me asking?
Thanks for all the interesting reads, I'v had a lot of fun reading your thread!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
febisfebi said:
I am a machinist by trade, although I stopped working at machine shops some years ago, by my own decisiion. I am quite sure however that is the only way to drill a true blind hole like that unless you have a lot of extra material to waste for the pointed end shape of a drillbit. Since the material is only 3/16" thick, perhaps they just skipped the drill bit alltogether, made sure the material was secured in a vise, and just cut the hole with a flat ended endmill. all of that can be done on a drillpress, with a vise or other securing jig, as long as your not trying to hold your material steady by hand, as the endmill will jerk the material around since there is no pointed end. Please dont anybody ever try that! it is likely that your hand will be the one with the hole in it. how deep do your m3 holes go thru the 3/16"? also just out of curiosity, aluminum welding requires special equipment and skill. What kind of money did you have to spend to get those endcaps welded on, if you dont mind me asking?
Thanks for all the interesting reads, I'v had a lot of fun reading your thread!
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I didn't do the work, and it's very clear you know far more than I do about that kind of work.

I had it done to bring chip operating temperature down to increase chip efficiency. The chips do make more light.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Great ideal re water cooling the led's tyy. I may have to build something myself but would probably try epoxy and copper tubes on aluminum plate (got all that in the barn somewhere lol).
febisfebi said:
I am a machinist by trade, although I stopped working at machine shops some years ago, by my own decisiion. I am quite sure however that is the only way to drill a true blind hole like that unless you have a lot of extra material to waste for the pointed end shape of a drillbit. Since the material is only 3/16" thick, perhaps they just skipped the drill bit alltogether, made sure the material was secured in a vise, and just cut the hole with a flat ended endmill. all of that can be done on a drillpress, with a vise or other securing jig, as long as your not trying to hold your material steady by hand, as the endmill will jerk the material around since there is no pointed end. Please dont anybody ever try that! it is likely that your hand will be the one with the hole in it. how deep do your m3 holes go thru the 3/16"? also just out of curiosity, aluminum welding requires special equipment and skill. What kind of money did you have to spend to get those endcaps welded on, if you dont mind me asking?
Thanks for all the interesting reads, I'v had a lot of fun reading your thread!
Click to expand...
Not sure how they got the water passages in and if no ones getting wet all the better :). Re the welding, it's not that hard to do, my cheap MIG does a good job or you could use a torch and flux, the ultimate would be a TIG for me :). Nice setup tyy, is the chiller plugged in yet?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Great ideal re water cooling the led's tyy. I may have to build something myself but would probably try epoxy and copper tubes on aluminum plate (got all that in the barn somewhere lol).

Not sure how they got the water passages in and if no ones getting wet all the better :). Re the welding, it's not that hard to do, my cheap MIG does a good job or you could use a torch and flux, the ultimate would be a TIG for me :). Nice setup tyy, is the chiller plugged in yet?
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The whole thing has been running for over 6 months.
 
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