Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)

Snprhed

Member
Homebrewer, Im new to growing and this site. Really enjoyed reading this comparison. I was hoping for some guidance with a coco grow. I did GH on my first grow, but I dont care for there parent company so I started looking around. I love the simplicity of the dynagro system. So I was hoping you could help me out with how much of each per gallon for both veg and flower. I have the grow, flower and protekt. I also have calmag, and botanicare hydroguard
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Homebrewer, Im new to growing and this site. Really enjoyed reading this comparison. I was hoping for some guidance with a coco grow. I did GH on my first grow, but I dont care for there parent company so I started looking around. I love the simplicity of the dynagro system. So I was hoping you could help me out with how much of each per gallon for both veg and flower. I have the grow, flower and protekt. I also have calmag, and botanicare hydroguard
Grow and protekt is all that you need from start to finish. Start with their recommended dose and tweak from there. I think it's 1/2 tsp/gal.
 

Snprhed

Member
do you have any good advice on training/shaping for best output. There seems to be lots of info out there on topping/mainlining/sog/lst etc. Or if you have a good article that you think explains it well it would be much appreciated

(I understand sog, and scrog, not interested in those techniques. More the training that gives you a good shape for decent production)
 
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homebrewer

Well-Known Member
do you have any good advice on training/shaping for best output. There seems to be lots of info out there on topping/mainlining/sog/lst etc. Or if you have a good article that you think explains it well it would be much appreciated

(I understand sog, and scrog, not interested in those techniques. More the training that gives you a good shape for decent production)
I like to pinch, bend, and top plants to create a canopy with several main growth shoots. I also trim up the spindly bottom branches. Basically I'm trying to grow plants that look like ice cream cones.
 

questiondj42

Well-Known Member
do you have any good advice on training/shaping for best output. There seems to be lots of info out there on topping/mainlining/sog/lst etc. Or if you have a good article that you think explains it well it would be much appreciated

(I understand sog, and scrog, not interested in those techniques. More the training that gives you a good shape for decent production)
Get some Thai basil. It grows quickly and respond readily to all pruning techniques. Practice with those, then you'll know exactly how each technique translates in the plant.
 

Snprhed

Member
I am kinda using a modified mainlining concept. I let the plant get to about 7-8 inches tall then top. I take the 2 bigger upper branches and pull them out and down with padded wire so light can get to the 2 lower branches. I end up with an x/cross shape which should end up with 4 primary colas.

I will probably clean up the bottom right before going into flowering.

I generally have a green thumb, and this approach seems to make sense to me. It seems like shaping is really important to the final output, yet many more focus on the nutrients looking for some golden juice that will double production, or not make them a crappy grower
 

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
I am kinda using a modified mainlining concept. I let the plant get to about 7-8 inches tall then top. I take the 2 bigger upper branches and pull them out and down with padded wire so light can get to the 2 lower branches. I end up with an x/cross shape which should end up with 4 primary colas.

I will probably clean up the bottom right before going into flowering.

I generally have a green thumb, and this approach seems to make sense to me. It seems like shaping is really important to the final output, yet many more focus on the nutrients looking for some golden juice that will double production, or not make them a crappy grower
Sounds like you have training down, but you may want to get some kind of sea kelp product if you are still growing in coco. it is actually a golden juice (the color of floralicious plus), but i was taught and believe it helps with smell and flavor after my last run with it.
 

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
What sea kelp is the consensus best?
floralicious plus is all i have experience with (i don't count superthrive since i only use it for cloning). Just give it 1ml/gallon all through the flowering process.


Ingredients: Vegetable protein hydrolysate and potassium sulphate.

Also contains non-plant food ingredients:
2% Humic acids derived from micronized leonardite.
20% Sea kelp derived from Ascophyllum nodosum.
 

kytaez

Member
Great and very informative HB!

New on this forum and looking for advice.
Recently I switched from HID to LED lights and noticed the plants suffering from too much Nitrogen comparing to when under HID.
I grow in NFT and kept the same nutrient profile for many years with great results. All I did change is the lights. Seems like I need low N nutrient scheme now.
Decided to go with DG bloom and Protekt.
Plan is to keep EC 1.0-1.2 and see if that will make a difference. I'll report back to you, hopefully with pictures.
Cheers!
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Great and very informative HB!

New on this forum and looking for advice.
Recently I switched from HID to LED lights and noticed the plants suffering from too much Nitrogen comparing to when under HID.
I grow in NFT and kept the same nutrient profile for many years with great results. All I did change is the lights. Seems like I need low N nutrient scheme now.
Decided to go with DG bloom and Protekt.
Plan is to keep EC 1.0-1.2 and see if that will make a difference. I'll report back to you, hopefully with pictures.
Cheers!
Interesting. Keep us posted.
 

Theophilus

Well-Known Member
Fabric pots are going to need watered pretty frequently and the 2 gallon size might be a good size for an automatic watering system like Blumats. Unless you switch away from fabric or increase the size of the fabric container, expect to water often. Heck, I'm in 5 gallon paint buckets and sometimes 3.5 gallons of my promix mix boarders on needing watered 2x day depending on the size of the plant so I can only imagine how quickly fabric dries out. Maybe work on REALLY soaking them when you do water, that might buy you some time. 1/2 gallon or more watered in really slowly?
I have personally settled on 3 gallon fabric pots with Pro-mix HP. I find there to be adequate amounts of perlite in the HP (hence the name, High Perosity) so I only add vermiculite to the mix. I find that need to water every other day or it will be disastrous, lol... I also make one pass with my watering wand at about 4 to 5 seconds each and then go back around after they have had a chance to fully absorb the water. I have followed you (HB) to a T and have never had better results. I also manage a Hydro shop and have passed this knowledge to others who are open minded enough to give it a try and I get nothing but stellar reviews in response. So thank you. The meds I now produce are truly top shelf and it's rediculousy simple and CHEAP. Maybe I can post some pics up soon, By the way, are you (HB) on Instagram by any chance?
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
I have personally settled on 3 gallon fabric pots with Pro-mix HP. I find there to be adequate amounts of perlite in the HP (hence the name, High Perosity) so I only add vermiculite to the mix. I find that need to water every other day or it will be disastrous, lol... I also make one pass with my watering wand at about 4 to 5 seconds each and then go back around after they have had a chance to fully absorb the water. I have followed you (HB) to a T and have never had better results. I also manage a Hydro shop and have passed this knowledge to others who are open minded enough to give it a try and I get nothing but stellar reviews in response. So thank you. The meds I now produce are truly top shelf and it's rediculousy simple and CHEAP. Maybe I can post some pics up soon, By the way, are you (HB) on Instagram by any chance?

Thanks! I'm glad some things are working for you over there.

Nope. No social media for me.
 

FruitPunch

New Member
Read 30 pages and feel like it was a waste of time.... The comparison wasn't fair at all if your using dg with protek you should be using an con with rhino skin potassium silicate does a big difference in yield and end product and to say dg yield was greater then an con is clearly dependent on the grower and not on the nutrients.... I've grown with a few different brands and yield was never affected, the trichomes production, the high and the taste were the most affected... only thing else noticeable was the ability of a product compared to another in keeping the plant green and happy. An con does this better then DG. I use to love AN in my rookie days and to be honest it was the easiest product to use and rarely did any deficiencies ever show up with my plants. I also grew AK with it the final product was fantastic. Ofcourse I didnt burn my plants and kept ppm levels between 800 and 1000.


Truth is most nutrients will do a great job hence why people feel GH is all they need some feel AN works great for them and some feel that DG or HG works just as good as the most popular ones.... Everyone who does a comparison will have different results and say one yield more then the other so this only means that it depends on the grower and how each cycle went, if you burned the plants a lil bit will effect final results. if you fed to high it will affect results if you fed too low also. just the clones you use will fluctuate yield results in a great way.

Alot of people fail to realize that nutrients count for 1/10th when it comes to yield and product quality. Your lighting is the most important factor on yield. Your temperature and humidity levels have a greater impact on your yield also. I've grown plants on my deck in promix and never gaved them nutrients.... they came out as good as plants that were fed nutrients but yielded much more in 4 months then a indoor grow with 2 months veg and 2 months flower. reason is simple light not nutrients....c02 in higher amounts.

The last thing you should worry about is nutrients. When selecting your base nutrients keep it simple. Whats available to you at your closest hydroponic store, Which one will last you longer for the price you pay.. Then look online at peoples plants growing with those nutrients and notice who is having the lease problem, (new growers journals are the best threads to look at) if someone doesnt know what they really doing and its working for them then its pretty stable nutrient....

The only nutrients worth testing and comparing are the nutrients that manipulate your plants, like protek for example will increase your stalk size and make your plant stronger and alot more. thats why i am concerned if the an connoisseur got any protek or rhino skin cause that will make a huge difference in uptake and all... so trying botanicare silica blast or rhino skin should show you which one make your stalk bigger and stronger etc..... Another good nutrient that one shouldnt go without is root exelurator or voodoo juice... comparing which one grows more roots faster would be beneficial. The last nutrient I will add to my recipe is terp enhancers. It helps bring out the aroma in your strains. Comparing terpinator , floralicious and bud candy bud factorx combo will also be beneficial even using them all at the same time will show you if its worth it or not.

I no longer use bloom boosters even though I know they work I notice they all make your plants take longer to finish and more often your plants start foxtailing, they also ruin the taste of your crop even after heavy flushing it just wont taste the same using some bloom boosters. I now only use base nutrients (house and garden aqua a&b) potassium silicate(botanicare silica blast) root enhancers (house and garden root exelurator) terp enhancers (terpinator). I only use products that my senses can detect... visual, smell, taste

Anyways, who grows for themselves and focus on yield, I guess rookies but what they should really focus on is a clean tasty frosty quality end product that burns white ashes and taste like heaven with a clean high. Thru reading this thread I noticed homebrew said he feed is plant til 3-5 days before the end of the cycle. I do not recommend this at all. I start flushing at end of week 7 for 9 full weeks strains (day 50 to day 65). I start flushing at end of week 5 for 7 full weeks strains (day 35 to day 49) . I never feed over 1000pm thru the whole cycle. I feed 600ppm in veg, 800 ppm first 3 weeks of flower, 1000ppm 3 next weeks of flower and start to flush. During flush I change my reservoir every 3 days to keep the water clean. Growing is not complicated theres just so much misleading information out there and so many products to choose from and a whole bunch of know it alls that only time and experience on your own will get you where you want to be....
 
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homebrewer

Well-Known Member
That has to be the record for the longest first post in forum history. Congrats and thanks for swinging by!

I'll address a few things for shits and gigs:

Read 30 pages and feel like it was a waste of time.... The comparison wasn't fair at all if your using dg with protek you should be using an con with rhino skin potassium silicate does a big difference in yield and end product and to say dg yield was greater then an con is clearly dependent on the grower and not on the nutrients....
They're the same product only DG's Protekt is way more concentrated. And the only way to truly be fair is to keep Protket a constant which is what I did in this grow.

I've grown with a few different brands and yield was never affected, the trichomes production, the high and the taste were the most affected... only thing else noticeable was the ability of a product compared to another in keeping the plant green and happy. An con does this better then DG. I use to love AN in my rookie days and to be honest it was the easiest product to use and rarely did any deficiencies ever show up with my plants. I also grew AK with it the final product was fantastic. Ofcourse I didnt burn my plants and kept ppm levels between 800 and 1000.
Did you journal these grows like I have? Please post a link.

Unless these different brand all have the EXACT mineral content then your yields will be affected.

Alot of people fail to realize that nutrients count for 1/10th when it comes to yield and product quality. Your lighting is the most important factor on yield. Your temperature and humidity levels have a greater impact on your yield also. I've grown plants on my deck in promix and never gaved them nutrients.... they came out as good as plants that were fed nutrients but yielded much more in 4 months then a indoor grow with 2 months veg and 2 months flower. reason is simple light not nutrients....c02 in higher amounts.
You're talking about environmental things which have been dialed in here for a decade. These tests were all conducted in the same environment as to eliminate variables.

The last thing you should worry about is nutrients. When selecting your base nutrients keep it simple. Whats available to you at your closest hydroponic store, Which one will last you longer for the price you pay.. Then look online at peoples plants growing with those nutrients and notice who is having the lease problem, (new growers journals are the best threads to look at) if someone doesnt know what they really doing and its working for them then its pretty stable nutrient....
This is where you're wrong. All NPKs are not created equal. If you don't understand this then I'd suggest reading up on the topic.

Anyways, who grows for themselves and focus on yield, I guess rookies but what they should really focus on is a clean tasty frosty quality end product that burns white ashes and taste like heaven with a clean high. Thru reading this thread I noticed homebrew said he feed is plant til 3-5 days before the end of the cycle. I do not recommend this at all. I start flushing at end of week 7 for 9 full weeks strains (day 50 to day 65). I start flushing at end of week 5 for 7 full weeks strains (day 35 to day 49) . I never feed over 1000pm thru the whole cycle. I feed 600ppm in veg, 800 ppm first 3 weeks of flower, 1000ppm 3 next weeks of flower and start to flush. During flush I change my reservoir every 3 days to keep the water clean. Growing is not complicated theres just so much misleading information out there and so many products to choose from and a whole bunch of know it alls that only time and experience on your own will get you where you want to be....
You cannot flush your plants, only your medium.
 

FruitPunch

New Member
That has to be the record for the longest first post in forum history. Congrats and thanks for swinging by!
After reading 30 pages its gonna be a long sump up lol!.... i noticed im not the only one who posted here for there first time this thread as the power to do that with so much misleading information. But anyhow ive been here before my name was quebecgold I just cant login anymore...

I'll address a few things for shits and gigs:



They're the same product only DG's Protekt is way more concentrated. And the only way to truly be fair is to keep Protket a constant which is what I did in this grow.
I dont believe they are the same product.... just putting it in your solution will show you different ppm and ph readings.... Haven't done it yet but would gladly try it out...

Did you journal these grows like I have? Please post a link.
Man ive only made one journal in my life and it was in 2006 when I first started growing mostly AN products when I was worried about yield... now I think less is more.... maybe some good info in there i dont remember much it was 10 years ago. http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5789

Im actually planning a cycle where I will use only a&b + potassium silicate on one tray and then use a&b + many additives but no bloom boosters. I will make a journal of it.... Next cycle will be a journal to see which potassium silicate works better. and last one will be a cycle to see which terp enhancer works better or if they work better used all together. I know terpinaor works after I use it in veg my plants stank the next day no smell was detected before that stem rub gave a fruity aroma it didnt have the day before the strain is the screme cut.

Unless these different brand all have the EXACT mineral content then your yields will be affected.
I dont believe that.... if u want more yield get more light and add c02! that i believe.... buying a different brand of nuts to expect larger yield is for giggles! anyone who knows anything for real will tell you thats non sense... nutrients are to keep your plants healthy not for larger yield but clearly if they are in good heath they will yield good.

You're talking about environmental things which have been dialed in here for a decade. These tests were all conducted in the same environment as to eliminate variables.
doesnt change the fact that yield could of been less because of clones thats a variable you cant control... i never had a clone yield the same in the same media drinking from the same reservoir under the same light inside a 2sq feet radius.

This is where you're wrong. All NPKs are not created equal. If you don't understand this then I'd suggest reading up on the topic.
I dont really care for npk it can have the same npk and show you different visual results that you can clearly notice.... I believe the product that grows the biggest healthy leafs will grow the biggest healthy buds..... i see so many products with the same npk that show large amounts of differences in results....

You cannot flush your plants, only your medium.
my plants are flushed and the reason I say that is because once they consume all the nutrients stored they start yellowing.... but anyhow im french so im not gonna argue with you but u know what i mean.

But anyhow ain't no point to argue about nutrients when it barely as any effect on yield... its the least important factor when it comes to yield....

I just couldnt believe you blamed the nutrients for having fluffy buds at the bottom.... clearly those buds didnt get light cause even without nutrients they would have tight buds if they were getting light.... things like that make you doubt the integrity of the comparison.... i read all this to end up realizing you forcing yourself to think DG is a better product.... i think the only thing better about it is the price to be honest.... which is a good thing u totally right for saying ull stick with dg over an but the comparison lacks realness....
 
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GuyLeDuche

Well-Known Member
my plants are flushed and the reason I say that is because once they consume all the nutrients stored they start yellowing
This thinking really confuses me. Last I heard, a plant needs 16 different nutes. How many nutes are stored in your leaves? Mine have none lol
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
I don't mean to be a dick here but this is going to be my last response to you as it's not my job to catch you up to speed. You have some stuff to learn and perhaps this thread was too much too soon for you?

I dont believe they are the same product.... just putting it in your solution will show you different ppm and ph readings.... Haven't done it yet but would gladly try it out...
Potassium silicate is potassium silicate. Compare the labels.

I dont believe that.... if u want more yield get more light and add c02! that i believe.... buying a different brand of nuts to expect larger yield is for giggles! anyone who knows anything for real will tell you thats non sense... nutrients are to keep your plants healthy not for larger yield but clearly if they are in good heath they will yield good.
Do you think a 9-3-6 plant food is going to perform the same at a 3-9-6 in hydro? Those two NPKs will grow plants vastly different from one another and the subsequent yields will be different too (I would know, I've done the tests). Sure, adding more light will help yields but the emphasis here is OPTIMAL nutrition for yield and quality with all things being equal.

doesnt change the fact that yield could of been less because of clones thats a variable you cant control... i never had a clone yield the same in the same media drinking from the same reservoir under the same light inside a 2sq feet radius.
The difference between you and a seasoned veteran is that clearly you're not consistent in your process.

But anyhow ain't no point to argue about nutrients when it barely as any effect on yield... its the least important factor when it comes to yield....
The mineral profile that you feed your plants can have a profound effect on yields. You said in your post above that you're not at all consistent in your results so it is not a surprise to me that you can't tell the difference between plant foods. That's the difference between you and me, I'm consistent.

I just couldnt believe you blamed the nutrients for having fluffy buds at the bottom.... clearly those buds didnt get light cause even without nutrients they would have tight buds if they were getting light.... things like that make you doubt the integrity of the comparison.... i read all this to end up realizing you forcing yourself to think DG is a better product.... i think the only thing better about it is the price to be honest.... which is a good thing u totally right for saying ull stick with dg over an but the comparison lacks realness....
DG in this comparison was more concentrated, pH stable, more economical, easier to use, and it was also a better performer. I'd ask you to run a similar comparison but it sounds like you need to be more consistent in your results before you run off comparing products.
 

ozric420

Active Member
AN is for people that have more money to spend and don't mind using a bunch of additives to get a complete NPK. If that's even possible with out breaking your wallet. I at one time was one of those people, Since following HB , I've seen the light at the end of the AN tunnel...I switched to DG ....1 bottle of Grow, 1 bottle of Bloom and protect. ....very easy to use, and I get great results , plus I spend a third of the time mixing and I believe plant genetics play a large part in yield . I'm not bashing anyone who uses AN, I just don't ride that train anymore, and I feel good about it....Thanks HB for your insight and all you have taught me....
 
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