...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?


  • Total voters
    357

TimeToBurn

Well-Known Member
heavenbright will be best at providing even coverage over a screen where girls cant be moved or low ceiling height for a less wattage more cob approach! I havnt seen any better fixture for a ceiling height 5ft n under?
I keep seeing you recommend the Heavenbright for a SOG due to even coverage but what about light penetration? SOG's are thick and is important to get light deep into it. Do you feel a 30 watt Vero18 will penetrate as deep as a 90 watt Vero29?
 

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
I keep seeing you recommend the Heavenbright for a SOG due to even coverage but what about light penetration? SOG's are thick and is important to get light deep into it. Do you feel a 30 watt Vero18 will penetrate as deep as a 90 watt Vero29?
the vero29 90w with lenses will penetrate lots more than vero18 30 waters with no lenses but the more lower watt cob approach is gonna have more benefit coverage with the 120 degree open air cob. For me SOG =optic and SCROG=heavenbright that's what I rec..
 
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TimeToBurn

Well-Known Member
the vero29 90w with lenses will penetrate lots more than vero18 30 waters with no lenses but the more lower watt cob approach is gonna have more benefit coverage with the 120 degree open air cob. For me SOG =optic and SCROG=heavenbright that's what I rec..
What's the difference between SOG and SCROG? I'm still learning but thought they were the same or similar.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Although I like the idea of moving around each individual COB I'd have to agree that it could be a potential problem (grabbing the uncovered fan, tugging a wire loose, etc.).

And IDK about "best at providing even coverage", wouldn't moving them around create an uneven coverage and potentially dead spots if they're moved too far apart/close together? Or is this something that has been tested and measured?

IMO pre-selected spots for the COBs to sit and provide even coverage (while allowing adjustments) would be a good way to get the best of both worlds.
The fans on the Model-V are harmless to the touch at 5V. Wires are all soldered, taped, and heat wrapped to prevent any wires coming unloose, with all drivers being secured down with locking washers and nuts.

Each of the outside bars have drilled holes that allow users to match up COBS in parallel fashion with or without the use of included screws, locking washers, and nuts, which also adds to the stability of the COB modules and prevents the potential "dead spot". Additionally, the drilled holes offers the user to push all the COB modules inwards to the middle, maximizing focus/intensity or spread out, maximizing coverage/spread. So in short, the Model-V is giving the given user a whole sort of options with respect to mobility.

Yes, I was thinking about you guys and your needs when it came to all of this!


I have a few thoughts on what it is going to take for a cob panel builder be top of the game:
GG has a good approach targeting a specific lamp (CMH) footprint to match as a 1:1 replacement.
But for a flower light I think it needs to be determined the height and area (say 18" diameter canopy at 24" Height etc) at which the COB used provides 800-1000µmol and the fixture designed to hold 1 - 2 COBS spaced to provide coverage as such and allow MANY units to be linked together.
Then the big boy grower has solid data to know if I buy x amount of units and hang them at x height I am covered.
I really don't see the point in having cobs sliding around on rails other than to greatly increase the chance of a mechanical / electrical failure
My $.02 anyways
The thing about the game is that it's so widespread now that everyone growing has different needs and capabilities. When I was growing out in Oregon as a caregiver, I could only work with a pantry and a closet, which limited the space that I had to grow with, as well as what lighting systems I could choose from.

In short, every grower has different needs and having multiple options rather than solely one single option is a big win for the average grower.

As for the sliding, it's an option that's tied in with the option of being able to easily switch out COB modules that may differ in spectrum or technology. Some people prefer periodically turning their pots around so that different areas of the plant take turns in absorbing various amounts of light. With the ability of easily moving lighting sources around, one can avoid the grunt work.

One of the things that I had issues with in my last serious grow was that the main cola grew so quickly after the beginning of flowering that I had to tie it down and out of the the limelight in order to keep it from being burnt, as my tent was limited in height. Looking back, if I could have simply and strategically moved the lighting sources around, I quite possibly could have avoided having to stress her out, leading to a better harvest.

The chances of an electrical and/or mechanical failure aren't likely; I've got these fixtures set up for rough and tough handling. Believe it or not, I want customers to be happy and satisfied with their Model-V fixtures.
 

vitamin_green_inc

Well-Known Member
What's the difference between SOG and SCROG? I'm still learning but thought they were the same or similar.
SOG(sea of green) is a bunch of plants to equal a forest and SCROG(screen of green) is just a few plants with a to equal that same forest. SCROG usually yields about 1.5x-2 as much as SOG but you can make up for that by having 2-3 runs in a SOG system so it's honestly up to how to you run things-a lot of plants/multi strains-SOG, a few plants vegged for awhile-SCROG...in terms of LED, with SCROG/a nice even canopy, you don't need penetration because nothing will be growing beneath the screen...in SOG you usually lollipop the bottom branches but you have individual trees that might be crowding each other out, especially if you'd don't train, so you will need greater penetration. Hope that helps!
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
I keep seeing you recommend the Heavenbright for a SOG due to even coverage but what about light penetration? SOG's are thick and is important to get light deep into it. Do you feel a 30 watt Vero18 will penetrate as deep as a 90 watt Vero29?
The thing about penetration is that there are two appropriate approaches, one of them being forcing all the light from one direction, like from directly above, or the other being by dividing the total light output and spreading it across the canopy, thus reaching every nook and cranny from multiple positions.

One way of thinking of these approaches is being under a tree around noon, with the sun directly above you, covering the tree but leaving you in the shade, while in the morning or late afternoon the sun sinking and shining upon you while under the tree but leaving one side of the tree in shade. With multiple points of lighting sources, you get a little bit of each effect, thus lowering total shadow and increasing "penetration".
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I keep seeing you recommend the Heavenbright for a SOG due to even coverage but what about light penetration? SOG's are thick and is important to get light deep into it. Do you feel a 30 watt Vero18 will penetrate as deep as a 90 watt Vero29?
SOGs and SCROGs require the same amount of light penetration. The only difference between a properly managed SOG or a SCROG is the number of plants used to make it. Each is an example of two ends of a spectrum ending up with the same net effect. In either case the optimum condition is to have an even thick canopy that absorbs all the light you can throw at it. This also means light from all angles. Since I can sneak in light from the side that will get a lot deeper than any overhead spotlight.
 

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
So grower A! He grows 4ft SOG plants in a 4x4! And grower B uses a screen over the same area! SOG has 4ft canopy and screen has 2 ft canopy! I think pushing light through a 2ft canopy would be easier than pushing light thru 4ft canopy??
 
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OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
I think the answer to that is in most peoples vid updates on scrog - "anything below the screen is pretty much shit"
If you want to grow them taller/wider non-scrog you better have a little space around the sides and rotate them around frequently regardless of the light source
 

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
2ft of canopy is easier too push through than 4 ft.and I know ! nobody wants fluff. Growing environment would play big part too.. IMO. a mylar tent would help more than growin open room. There are so variables besides the light source. lenses vs free air for penetration?? I personaly havnt seen anything better!? At the moment I am trying to figure out if the 60 degree or 90s are best? I know there is some light output lost with the lense but how much too say vs reflector? I am in the process of getting a PAR meter! so we shall see?
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
So grower A! He grows 4ft SOG plants in a 4x4! And grower B uses a screen over the same area! SOG has 4ft canopy and screen has 2 ft canopy! I think pushing light through a 2ft canopy would be easier than pushing light thru 4ft canopy??

nope if both growers know what they are doing they will have the same effective canopy covering the whole 4x4 area and the "effective canopy" is the same thickness,
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
Sorry to butt in to the flow with a question, iv'e followed the convo and seen them mentioned - Pico wire connectors but i'm wondering what Vero owners are doing and this seems like the Vero room :).

Ive got six/seven Vero18 to run on .7a 215V drivers (for some vegie lights)

The Pico wires 20awg or 28awg, Iv'e seen concerns about the gauge, either way they are rated at 300v, to run them from a 215Vmax driver safe? safer to split to two parallel strings of series? (edit, that makes no diff does it... still 215v.. or 2x 107.5v?) or

are they really more designed for low voltage drivers & solder heavier wire for bigger drivers?
 
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JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
nope if both growers know what they are doing they will have the same effective canopy covering the whole 4x4 area and the "effective canopy" is the same thickness,
I know that.You know that.But many do not and cant and isn't that what we do here is help people?
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Sorry to butt in to the flow with a question, iv'e followed the convo and seen them mentioned - Pico wire connectors but i'm wondering what Vero owners are doing and this seems like the Vero room :).

Ive got six/seven Vero18 to run on .7a 215V drivers (for some vegie lights)

The Pico wires 20awg or 28awg, Iv'e seen concerns about the gauge, either way they are rated at 300v, to run them from a 215Vmax driver safe? safer to split to two parallel strings of series? (edit, that makes no diff does it... still 215v.. or 2x 107.5v?) or

are they really more designed for low voltage drivers & solder heavier wire for bigger drivers?
I had same concerns. for 4 veros in serial on one driver I opted to not use the pico wires, cause of the higher voltage running in serial.
they probably would have worked, but wanted to be safe and 28awg is really tiny. Also the 20 awg is a pigtail connected internally to the 28awg, so the capacity spec should be for the 28awg
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
Hi PurleBuz, those pico sure are tiny! I hadn't noticed the gauge, only just got around to pulling them out of the pack and straight up, baulked at using them.
 
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