sky rocket
Well-Known Member
"Stinkbud o.s. system." O.s. meaning Oregon special
Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!
- Thread starter StinkBud
- Start date
Ok cool i looked that one up, its pretty much what i built except for the voltage and plug difference. If the demand was there i could make a batch of 100 to suit 240v for about $50 usd a piece
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Oregon Special Update
Same old shit... Oh yea, remember I told you about those 3 veg plants I had left over. Here is a picture of them. They're actually doing pretty good in the veg unit. The buds are still babies but are already getting frosty. Everything is super stinky (duh) and if you touch the plants your fingers stick together like when you fuck up with super glue and your have to cut them off. Well maybe I'm exaggerating a little but they are super fucking Icky McSticky.
Same old shit... Oh yea, remember I told you about those 3 veg plants I had left over. Here is a picture of them. They're actually doing pretty good in the veg unit. The buds are still babies but are already getting frosty. Everything is super stinky (duh) and if you touch the plants your fingers stick together like when you fuck up with super glue and your have to cut them off. Well maybe I'm exaggerating a little but they are super fucking Icky McSticky.
Flipisruff
Member
Hey stinkbuds. Do you ever get root rot on your system?
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Yea, I've had it a couple of times. It's always caused by the room getting too hot and the water get's warm to the touch. Once you get root rot it's hard to get rid of. You have to completely take everything apart and bleach the shit out of it. You can try using H2O2 if you catch it soon enough.
What do you look for? Wilting leaves are the first sign. If you see a plant wilting and all the other plants are fine, pull it out immediately. If you don't, it will infect all the other plants. I've only seen root rot hit young plants. Usually by the time the plants are big any problems have either killed the plants or went away.
The biggest thing to avoid root rot is water temps. Cold water is the best. Anything above 68 water temps is trouble...
The big 3 to avoid...
Root Rot
Spider Mites
Powdery Mildew
These three evils will force you to shut down and bleach everything. The guys at the hydro store will sell you 10 bottles of shit that won't work. Temps and cleanliness are the only thing that will save your ass in the long run.
HydroGrowLover
Well-Known Member
Since we are on the topic of root rot.
Trying your system out, stink bud jr, and I went down to check the roots today and almost screamed! But I'm not convinced it is root rot yet. The roots were white 3 days ago when they went in the flower room. I'm thinking it's just my nute blend. I'm running 24/7. I just switched it to 15 min on 15 off when I went down. Just wanted to make sure I was not over watering.
Plants seem to be OK.
Thoughts? What info would you need from me to better diagnose?
Trying your system out, stink bud jr, and I went down to check the roots today and almost screamed! But I'm not convinced it is root rot yet. The roots were white 3 days ago when they went in the flower room. I'm thinking it's just my nute blend. I'm running 24/7. I just switched it to 15 min on 15 off when I went down. Just wanted to make sure I was not over watering.
Plants seem to be OK.
Thoughts? What info would you need from me to better diagnose?
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StinkBud
Well-Known Member
If your plants are not wilting then you're fine. If you use the Botanicare line of nutes your roots will slowly turn brown from the dye in the Liquid Karma, it's perfectly normal. Root rot is very common though and hard to get rid of so it's good to be aware of what to look for. With root rot your roots will look more grey than brown. They will have a sort of transparent look to them. If the roots smell like a freshly plowed field then you're fucked. It doesn't really smell bad so it's easy to miss "the funk" but once you learn what it smells like you'll never forget.
I have a buddy I'm helping out right now with a never ending root rot problem. He can't seem to get his room below 80 degrees and the water always feels a little too warm for comfort. The plants just sit there with the leaves wilting like they aren't getting enough water. The roots are a sort of grey color and there is no clean white roots at all. Even with the roots being dyed you still should see some new white roots growing. The hydro store guy has sold him everything under the sun but nothing seems to work. I explained that he has two options. Either get a bigger A/C unit and keep the room cool or a buy a water chiller (or both)
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StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Nutrients
A lot of guys are curious about nutrients and what's the best. I've had really good luck with Botanicare nutrients. I've tried a bunch of different nutes including synthetic and I always end up going back to Botanicare because of the taste. It actually tastes as good if not better than old-school soil grown weed. I got my original recipe from my mentor many years ago. It's basically just Pure Blend Pro, Liquid Karma and Cal/Mag right out of Botanicare's book. Over the years Botanicare has released new additives like Sweet, Rhizo Blast, Silica Blast and Hydroplex. A lot of guys swear by them so feel free to party and let us know how it goes.
The guys at Botanicare have forgotten more about nutes than any of us will ever know so you can trust them. Here's what they recommend. You can find the original link here: http://www.botanicare.com/Nutrients/Predeveloped-Recipes.aspx
A lot of guys are curious about nutrients and what's the best. I've had really good luck with Botanicare nutrients. I've tried a bunch of different nutes including synthetic and I always end up going back to Botanicare because of the taste. It actually tastes as good if not better than old-school soil grown weed. I got my original recipe from my mentor many years ago. It's basically just Pure Blend Pro, Liquid Karma and Cal/Mag right out of Botanicare's book. Over the years Botanicare has released new additives like Sweet, Rhizo Blast, Silica Blast and Hydroplex. A lot of guys swear by them so feel free to party and let us know how it goes.
The guys at Botanicare have forgotten more about nutes than any of us will ever know so you can trust them. Here's what they recommend. You can find the original link here: http://www.botanicare.com/Nutrients/Predeveloped-Recipes.aspx
Flipisruff
Member
Could it be that maybe it's the timer? I've been reading on aero a bit. They usually mention 5 seconds on with high pressure.
Maybe 15 minutes low pressure aero/nft may cause the root to be too wet or the nft part with warm water might be the problem.
I tried your system stinksbud. It's great. But I too experience root rot and it's not your fault. I can't get the room or water colder.
Just assuming and I have no scientific proof.
Maybe 15 minutes low pressure aero/nft may cause the root to be too wet or the nft part with warm water might be the problem.
I tried your system stinksbud. It's great. But I too experience root rot and it's not your fault. I can't get the room or water colder.
Just assuming and I have no scientific proof.
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Root rot is the #1 problem with any Aeroponic/NFT. If the water feels even slightly warm you should expect trouble.
You're right about the timer bro. You have to use 1 minute on with 4-5 minutes off. If the pump runs much more it heats up the water. The cloner is not as big deal as the water should be a little on the warm side anyway. The 4-5 minutes of air time is crucial for the plants to get maximum oxygen. Some of the guys run chillers and then the room temps don't matter as much.
If someone came to me and said I can't get my room below 78 I'd tell them to grow in soil. Truth! I know in this forum guys act like growing in soil is the same as killing kittens but I personally love soil grown bud. Especially if it's 100% organic. Around here the dispensaries are required by law to test for mold, mildew and pesticides before they can sell it in their shops. The clones have to be checked for mold and mildew once a month. So most guys have switched over to 100% organic solutions for pest control. Smart move that shouldn't have to be forced on people to use.
I personally don't care what people grow their bud in. What matters to me is that patients are getting medicine. How that happens doesn't really matter much to me. If you can't afford a huge A/C unit or water chiller then just grow in soil, no big deal. Coco is also good because it's like air conditioning for your roots. Even if the canopy is warm the roots stay cool because of the evaporation effect.
I've been wanting to try a Coco drain to waste grow for years. I've even drew up some plans. This may be the year I actually do it. I have the plants to pull it off right now but I hate to risk losing plants to an untried method. The good thing is I always have my other grow going too so no matter what something is coming in.
HydroGrowLover
Well-Known Member
I started putting frozen 2 liters in the reservoirs. I plan to get a chiller I just can't decide on one or how I want to run the setup, stinkbud jr, with a chiller. I think it was just the nutrients changing the color of the roots. If this run fails I'll switch back to dwc 
I just love your system.
yum
I just love your system. yum
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
This is some info I was needing. I finally got my room set up and I'm seeing between 68/71 lights on and 59/62 lights off, those temps are taken at floor/canopy, respectively, without any plants, just a dry run. I was a little concerned about it being too cool, I'd like to be around 75 for veg..hoping once the plants are in the temps come up a little, i have plenty of cooling capacity compared to my lighting/heat. Thanks stink, your answering unasked questions..lol.
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
You're stoked if you can keep your room temps at 68 degrees! That would be a dream for me. Cool rooms make for nice dense nugs. The warmer the room, the more stretch between internodes. In grow room #2 my plants got too close to the light. The buds closest started to run and stretch while the lower buds stayed dense. So I super-cropped all of them...
What is Super-Cropping? That's when you bend/break the plant limbs. It's kind of scary the first time you try it but after awhile it's brainless. I like to top my plants early. I usually top them once or twice. Then I start bending/training the limbs using the screen. I think I've tried every method out there. I've bent the limbs down using string with fishing weights on the end. I've tried FIMing (Fuck I Missed) techniques. The truth is they all work great...
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
I had to add a 400w MH just to keep the temps up in my veg side, I was planning on only running T5's( 6 bulb for main veg) and T8's( 4 bulb for mothers/seed starts/clones.) so I've effectively doubled my veg lighting to around 800+W, which is WAY more than i ever thought I'd run.
I've done some( highly unscientific) SC experiments on some unexpected seedlings, abusing it from it's first set of true leaves, to see what would happen, most people say don' t do training until the plant is established, i say hogwash!.(caveat..only do it to seedling you are not counting on in case something goes wrong..lol) It seemed to have made a much shorter bushier plant right right off the bat, and , i can say fairly confidently, had way more nodes and bud sites. I'm going to use the technique for creating a couple mother plants
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dragongrower
Active Member
Hey StinkBud, I'm going to be building my first aero system here real soon, been a soil grower for a couple of years and am ready to move to the big leagues, lol. I am going to have a system very similar to yours. I already have an aero-cloner that I built. I will be going straight from clone to flowering. My flowering tent will be four posts, each one with 3 sites, each site 3" net pot instead of 2". Each rack will support 2 posts, and each rack will be supplied water and nutes from a different reservoir. So 2 completely independent systems. 1 for early flowering and 1 for final flowering, that way I can run to different sets of ppms... I haven't completely decided on a strain yet, but I currently have some ak48, mobydick, bluedream, and kali mist. My setup will be 3 plants every 2 weeks. The questions that I have are as follows: How much do you think I can realistically expect to harvest every 2 weeks? What ppms should I run my systems at, early flower and late flower? As far as the timing goes with the sprayers, would a heavy duty Panda Timer work for this, these have 50sec intervals repeated every 40mins? Any other information that you could give me would be great...
Your shit is on point, inspiration to us all...!
Your shit is on point, inspiration to us all...!
dragongrower
Active Member
Also...am running LED lights...380 actual watts in a 32x32x63 inch tent...
HydroGrowLover
Well-Known Member
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sky rocket
Well-Known Member
I'm not stinkbud but I know your panda timer will not work with 50 seconds on and 40 minutes off. Did you mean 4 minutes off? I run 1 minute on 4 minutes off. That's the norm. Your roots may dry out if they wait for 40 minutes.
HydroGrowLover
Well-Known Member
I'm running 15 on 15 off and mine are fine
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