...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I had the chance to test the PICO EZmate versus solder points with the Vero29 at relatively high dissipation (2.6A, 104W). I very carefully checked the Vf when running through the solder points versus running through the PICO connector and I detected no significant difference with a high degree of confidence. Just wanted to make sure it was not introducing any kind of voltage drop with those tiny connectors and tiny wires.

DSC07860a.jpg
 
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P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I had the chance to test the PICO EZmate versus solder points with the Vero29 at relatively high dissipation (2.6A, 104W). I very carefully checked the Vf when running through the solder points versus running through the PICO connector and I detected no significant difference with a high degree of confidence. Just wanted to make sure it was not introducing any kind of voltage drop with those tiny connectors and tiny wires.

View attachment 3320785
Click to expand...

great info ! Would you expect similar performance if you were to run 4 Vero 18s or 4 Vero 29s in series ? Voltage on the line is significantly higher, and it has to go through the tiny wires at the base of the connectors. my current build plan is 4 vero18s on an hlg in series at ~1amp, but I didn't order the ezmate, thinking they might not handle the ~130 volts.
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
great info ! Would you expect similar performance if you were to run 4 Vero 18s or 4 Vero 29s in series ? Voltage on the line is significantly higher, and it has to go through the tiny wires at the base of the connectors. my current build plan is 4 vero18s on an hlg in series at ~1amp, but I didn't order the ezmate, thinking they might not handle the ~130 volts.
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They're rated for 300v, I wouldn't expect any problems even with at 430v as long as the current is kept low.
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
Comparison of Vero18's of various CCT's. The graph reflects the absolute output between 380 and 780nm. You can *directly* compare one curve to another.
All values are based on typical values@test current@25 degree Celsius. Source data + formulas are in the zipped xls.
Looks like Décor Ultra (3000K 97CRI) doesn't have anything to offer.
I am also very interested in SPD of Décor Food, but sadly I haven't been able to obtain it yet.
vero18data.jpg
vero18.jpg

Original Bridgelux charts:
vero29.png
vero29decor.png
 

Attachments

SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
great info ! Would you expect similar performance if you were to run 4 Vero 18s or 4 Vero 29s in series ? Voltage on the line is significantly higher, and it has to go through the tiny wires at the base of the connectors. my current build plan is 4 vero18s on an hlg in series at ~1amp, but I didn't order the ezmate, thinking they might not handle the ~130 volts.
Click to expand...
Yep since the current will be lower than in my test, you can expect even less voltage drop. Actually I suspect the higher voltage of you proposed setup would have even more ability to overcome any "less than perfect" spots in the string.
 
ballist

ballist

Well-Known Member
Conflicted what lights for my next grow, 9 vero 18s at 3500k @ 1.5 amps or 315w CDM. I'm guessing the veros will win. I have some cheap 100w @ 3amps max open frame drivers which should be able to drive a pair. If the current balance isn't good I will add a couple of current mirrors.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I had the chance to test the PICO EZmate versus solder points with the Vero29 at relatively high dissipation (2.6A, 104W). I very carefully checked the Vf when running through the solder points versus running through the PICO connector and I detected no significant difference with a high degree of confidence. Just wanted to make sure it was not introducing any kind of voltage drop with those tiny connec wires.

View attachment 3320785
Click to expand...

I'm glad to see here that you've tested out the Pico's and have had positive results.

Which model/gauge(s) did you go with for the Pico?
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Funny you should ask, I was just swapping a Vero10 from one heatsink to another. The kapton came off easily with no residue and the pico came off easily. Even though they tested OK, I decided to abandon the pico connectors since they add 32% to the cost of a Vero10. The ones I chose were 12", 18 gauge, part number 0688014225

380gr with copper core. Should be much better for passive cooling, not that the square heatsink was a problem but I had this laying around.
DSC07877a.jpg
DSC07879a.jpg

Besides looking cleaner, another advantage of the PICO is a flatter surface if you are going to rig up a reflector.
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Funny you should ask, I was just swapping a Vero10 from one heatsink to another. The kapton came off easily with no residue and the pico came off easily. Even though they tested OK, I decided to abandon the pico connectors since they add 32% to the cost of a Vero10. The ones I chose were 12", 18 gauge, part number 0688014225
View attachment 3322725
View attachment 3322726

Besides looking cleaner, another advantage of the PICO is a flatter surface if you are going to rig up a reflector.
Click to expand...
Your currently the reigning DIY reflector guru of RIU
, so I suspect you'll be using the pico pins as for their advantage and clean look or?
 
Dloomis514

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Funny you should ask, I was just swapping a Vero10 from one heatsink to another. The kapton came off easily with no residue and the pico came off easily. Even though they tested OK, I decided to abandon the pico connectors since they add 32% to the cost of a Vero10. The ones I chose were 12", 18 gauge, part number 0688014225

380gr with copper core. Should be much better for passive cooling, not that the square heatsink was a problem but I had this laying around.
View attachment 3322725
View attachment 3322726

Besides looking cleaner, another advantage of the PICO is a flatter surface if you are going to rig up a reflector.
Click to expand...
Why do you leave the contacts free of the tape?
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
That a good question, normally I run at low voltage so I can grab the contacts with bare hands with no problem. But I have covered them with tape before and because I am using 18 gauge wire, the tape is bumped up and creates a "tent" that actually blocks some of the light from reaching the canopy. I suppose a better option would be some kind of insulating coating, although there may be problems with certain fumes being near the COB surface so you would probably have to make sure to blow air on it while drying.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
That a good question, normally I run at low voltage so I can grab the contacts with bare hands with no problem. But I have covered them with tape before and because I am using 18 gauge wire, the tape is bumped up and creates a "tent" that actually blocks some of the light from reaching the canopy. I suppose a better option would be some kind of insulating coating, although there may be problems with certain fumes being near the COB surface so you would probably have to make sure to blow air on it while drying.
Click to expand...
Heres a good link

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
I know this is/sounds dumb...but I have been trying to get shocked by my hlg185-1400's(143v) and hlg120-700(215v). I wanted to see how dangerous it really was....I have been unsuccessful so far. I've grabbed and held every contact/multiple ones...nothing at all.

EDIT:
DO NOT ATTEMPT YOUR SELF...IT IS POTENTIALLY VERY DANGEROUS. I AM/WAS LUCKY.
 
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