DIY E-Nail

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
do you have it set on auto tune? also I think I read once that with those you have to enter 0001, then your desired temp. There are a couple facebook groups that you could post this in and more than likely get 50 responses in the first couple hours of how to go about programming this and be using it tonite, also you could always go onto aubers website and find their programming sheet
 

jbigdawg79

Well-Known Member
do you have it set on auto tune? also I think I read once that with those you have to enter 0001, then your desired temp. There are a couple facebook groups that you could post this in and more than likely get 50 responses in the first couple hours of how to go about programming this and be using it tonite, also you could always go onto aubers website and find their programming sheet
What groups would those be ?
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Hey i didnt know that was the same controller! haha. Basically hold the arrow pointing to the right down for 5 seconds and you should hear a click. Then the coil should run auto tune.

It sounds like you have your SSR hooked up wrong. Double check all your wires. If not you might have a dud coil. If its turning on it automatically starts to heat up to like 700 degrees and will over shoot a lot the first time. So its best to not have your coil hooked up so it can heat to a lower temp to make sure nothing breaks from over heating if it shoots far past 700 on the first rev up.

I set mine to 350 and then ran autotune and it was all over the place and finally came back. Then when i stepped it up to 700 it wasnt as out of control and i was able to run autotune with it only having to overshoot by 75 degrees.

Id check all the connections it might even be the ones running from the pid to the ssr to control it. very common.

Also to change the temp you should just be able to hit the up/down arrows and itll be blinking as you adjust. Then when you stop itll blink for what will seem like forever but is about 5-7 seconds and itll click i think and then start raising in temp and itll go from the blinking temp you set it to to the current temp it is and it should increase.

Hope this helped!
 

warble

Well-Known Member
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torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
These instruments have a much broader use than that of enails. Think industrial and lab related tools. Id be surprised if these companies have even noticed the enail industry popping up, in terms of sales, ect.
 

warble

Well-Known Member
These instruments have a much broader use than that of enails. Think industrial and lab related tools. Id be surprised if these companies have even noticed the enail industry popping up, in terms of sales, ect.

Do you think it could be made into an enail? Probably wouldn't heat up quickly.
 

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Still waiting on my other SSR, coil, and heat gun which should all be here friday. I also need to make a trip to the hardware store to get some wire, solder, connectors, ect. I think ill take the case to work and mill it being i dont have a dremel. Ive got the case laid out the way i think i would like it. I think ill start building next week unless i can find a dremel to borrow between now and then and i get the remainer of my supplies. Im beyond excited about this build. I really hope it works out well because i have a TON of ideas. I'm going to have a dozen of these damn things by this time next year lol.
enail.jpg
 

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Also, I have a fotek 25a SSR on the way, pictured is an auber 5a SSR. Im going to use the 25a for this build, but do you think the 5a will be alright for another smaller build i have in mind? Has any used or heard of anyone using the auber 5a? Thoughts? Opinions?

Thanks!
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
I think a lot of people use smaller SSRs than the 25a ones and most of them work and should be fine since youre only using a 200-250w coil which is just over 2 amps. The amount of cycles its rated for is probably more important and whether or not it gets hot or has heat sinking so it doesnt get worn out from being on so often. Auber has pretty good stuff so i dont doubt itll work.
 

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Awesome Budbro, Thanks! Im not sure what my coil is rated, i got one from d-nail. My PID didnt come with any sort of instructions(go figure) for programming. Budbro, do you have a manual i could get a copy of do you know of a link? Ill touch back when things begin to progress some more.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Awesome Budbro, Thanks! Im not sure what my coil is rated, i got one from d-nail. My PID didnt come with any sort of instructions(go figure) for programming. Budbro, do you have a manual i could get a copy of do you know of a link? Ill touch back when things begin to progress some more.
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction 1.0.pdf

Pretty sure thats the right one.

Also id put the plug on the back side of the box instead of the front if what im thinking it looks like is. Just for convenience and stability.

As for programming you really shouldnt have to do much. When you first get it and start fitting everything make sure you connect the hot to the coil last. Just because a lot of times theyre set to 700-800 and i just dont like puttin coils up to that on their first heat. So i turn it down to about 3 and let it sit for a while. Especially because no autotune has been run yet so it will waaaaay over shoot 700 and probably hit in the 900s. Not sure the real temp but mines usually only off by a little.

You dont have to though. Mine made it through it it just scared me because of how bright the coil got. But if you set it to like 350 let it get there and stabilize. Then set it to autotune by pressing the right pointing arrow down for like 5 seconds or so. Youll first hear a click then a few seconds after the pid output light will blink at the same speed consistently. If you let the pid settle out at 350 it should blink very slowly as long as you dont do it in a very cold place. Then once you kick on autotune youll notice that it blinks at the same pace even while cooling down when it usually slows to a blink or 2 every 5 seconds. Itll run and run and run for probably around 5 minutes. Try not to walk by it or cause any drafts to cool it faster. Not a big deal just for accuracy. After that youll hear a click and itll go back to normal uneven intervals of blinking and the Ai light should be lit and you might hear a click you heard in the beginning when the Ai button turns on.

After that crank it up to 700 just by hitting the up arrow. You can change the heat without going into any setting or unlocking it. Just hit up or down and when you get it to your temp just stop and itll sit there and blink for 5 seconds and possibly hear another one of those clicks and itll stop blinking and show the set temp then in another second or 2 itll bounce back to the current temp that should be rising.

When it stabilizes at 700 (should over shoot to about 800 ish) you can run autotune again. Itll probably get up to 850-900 but it shouldnt get super red and itll be more gradual than going from room temp to 900 in a very short period of time. Itll bounce around and do the same thing as last time.

After that you can adjust to your desired temp. I use quartz so mine probably has to be set hotter than if it was a titanium nail because of how the quartz throws heat out and titanium holds it. Also depends on the style of nail you get. Make sure to get one with the adapter to hold the coil and direct heat towards the dish. They have em in titanium and quartz. Unless youre getting a flat heater coil. Forget which one you decided on.

The club bangers also work. Most of them are for the 20mm but they make em now for the 16mm.

Carb caps are pretty crucial so if you cant find one for cheap you can get used lab glass. Small 25ml flasks and like 10ml beakers and they work really well. I have a 25ml flask that fits my 16mm nail perfect for a carb cap. The 5ml and 10ml beakers have an OD of 23mm so the ID of that flared part would probably be damn near 20mm plus the little spout would work as the actual "carb" because on the flask that i have it doesnt have a way to get air in really well besides the slight difference in size around it but thats how i like it. But i have some lungs so i can take long slow chugs. I found some 25ml filter flasks (used for buchner funnel) that would probably work awesome!
 

torturekiller420

Well-Known Member
Thanks a ton BudBro!!! I have Ti, quite a bit actually, mostly HE. As for my box, the power cord will go in the back., in the front will be (left to right) Coil plug, Power switch, PID.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Nice! Forgot about the on/off switch. You should be able to convert one to accommodate your coil. I know for the infinitis they have ad adapter piece of you can use them the old fashion way.
 
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