Wanting to go hydro

mattman

Well-Known Member
Hey fellas, im a soil user and im really wanting to try out hydro. Hydro seems like its much cleaner and easier to do ( from the pictures )

I looked through the DIY section on this site and found a great thread on how to build my own DWC.


I have some q's though.

How do you add nutrients in hydro?
This is silly but, since you have to water your soil in soil grows, how exactly do you know when to change out the water in your rez so that your babies are getting enough water?

How do you not OVERWATER, if your roots are just sitting in water.

Is their another container that you fill with water that pumps into your main rez?

Can you still fim/top or even lst with hydro?

As far as nutrients... Can i find these at lowes/walmart/ or home depot, or will I HAVE to order online?

As far as the containers that hold the the cups where the plants go in, do you have to change these out thru the grow for bigger plants? or does it all just depend on the rez for room for the roots?

Do you have to change out the water? If so, how often?

Whats the ideal ph for hydro?

Does ppm matter? If so what should it be at?


Sorry for ALL the q's, but if someone has the time to awnser these and possibly inform me of things im missing out that would be awesome, b/c im going to favorite this thread so that when im rdy i can just hop right on here to get started.
 
Ok lotta new potential hydro questions.Which setup are you looking to use? One like my 3o minute how to post or are you doing a flood table or maybe bubbleponics or a direct drip line? In hydro your 2 biggest things to watch are the ph and the ppm.keep ph at 5.8 and you check your ppm daily also.You follow the nutes manufactures directions. They will come with a feeding schedule which tells you the ph.ppm,ec,and cf your solution will be for that particular week.You mix your nutes in your res and the pump circulates them and the extra runs back in to your res. In smaller tub setups it all stays in the tub whetehr aero,drip, bubble or fogging.The netpots dont need to be changed as you can start and finish in the same size pots.3 and 4 inch net pots are standard.Use rooted clones in rockwool or seedlings.The nutes you need are not at walmart or hardware stores. I suggest Fox Farm nutes to start as they work great and are very forgiving to learn with. You get the 3 bottle grow big, tiger bloom and big bloom around $45 for the 3 bottles.Have a good digital ph meter and a ppm meter that can read 0-9999 ppms.Keep records and watch the plants how they act.Watch for water droppage,ppm flux and ph raises or drops.These all tell you what the plant wants or has to much of
 
hey thx for the quick reply, heres what im wanting to use

https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/18301-diy-dwc-cannabis-growing.html


I want to do exactly what he did except I want to use a bigger tub, and i want to do 3 extra babies, so 4 babies total...

Only thing is , i dont see how he does the whole exchange of water etc from the tub the plant sits in to the rez... How does this work?

So theirs seperate buckets, like 1 bucket filled with nutrients/water/ph adjustment etc, then theirs your bucket with the plant in it, and the nutrients get flowed thru tubes to the rez your plant sits in? Sorry, im just under diffrent impressions from pictures ive been looking at.
 
Well on that particular setup youd have to take the lid off and dump the res.I add a simple drain to my tub setups so I can just pop on a 1/2 inch hose to a drain or sink or waterver and open the valve and drain the res then I have an access site on top to refil or add nutes to the res..Heres a link to asimple aero tub setup diy I made.It shows some of the stuff and the newer design with drain and access port in the lid
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/22362-30-minute-6-plant-aero.html
 
1. You must purchase an accurate ph meter
before you plant your first seed.

2. If you choose to grow without a ppm meter,
you must carefully follow the nute mfg directions,
to avoid nutrient burn and you should use a reduced nute load.

3. Your rez should have a drain system with a pump,
to make nute changes fast and easy.
This will save a lot of time and spills and pay off greatly.

4. If you grow with tap water,
you should reduce the nute load by 50%

5. Use RO water, unless you have very low ppm tap water.

6. Use these two rules to determine when to change your rez.

A. The add back rule. B. The pH rule.

7. Low ppm nute solutions are easy to correct, but even slightly high nute solutions can cause irrepairable damage. Nute Mfg test their chemicals using commercial RO machines(000ppm), and very controlled temperature and humidity. Always use less nutes(chemicals) unless you are able to copy the nute mfg environment exactly.

8. 3.5-5gl/plant, is a good rule of thumb for estimating efficient rez volumes.

9. Start your seed in the medium you are going to grow in. All seed companies recommend this practice. Use the best genetics you can find.

10. Seeds can live on the stored energy they are sprouted with for 21 days. Don't feed new sprouts for at least 7 days, and then you should only use 1/4 strength nute solutions for the first week.

11. Always completely change out the solution with fresh water and then add new nutes.

12. Never pH the water before you add it to the solution. Pre adjusted pH'ed water will not be stable. Add clean water to top off your rez, and then measure the pH, then adjust the pH.

13. Don't burn the flavor out of your plants with HID lights. Sure more light equals faster growing, but why would you want to quickly grow hay? Use lights close during veg and move them further away in flower. Strong evidence supports the use of UVb lights to increase potency.

14. Buy a 60 to 100 power pocket microscope. You can see bugs, their eggs and, near harvest time, you can check trichomes.

15. Use Bed lice spray from the drug store to aggressively attack spider mites. Permethrins will cause the eggs to destruct. Spray under the leaves to kill the eggs. There will be no residue from this product because it breaks down with uv light.

16. If you use RO water, AN Barricade is an excellent limited buffer with a very small dose. Do not exceed Barricade's recommended application rate. Use an eye dropper to deliver Barricade, and check the ph between each drop. Barricade will raise the pH.

17. Use metric calibrated eye droppers, syringes, and baby medicine spoons, for very accurate dosing of nutes, and for ph adjustment.

18. Too low humidity can cause VPD.

19. Insulate, shade, or isolate your rez from light, and heat.

20. A fan to move air over the plant is required.

21. Have a power head in the bottom of your rez to keep the solution moving all the time, along with your air pump.

22. Uncontrollable pH swings can indicate a dieased root system. If your pH is falling to 3 or 4, this would be a good indicator of advanced root rot.

23. Control is what gives hydro the growing edge. Control results in better flavor, faster production, and higher yields. You can control the water, the air, the temperatures(rez & air), the humidity, the nutes, the ph, and the light.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Here is the add back & ph rule.

It is important to follow these two rules until you have completed a full grow,
and they are especially important if you are not using a tds meter.
===========================================
1. The Add Back Rule : Once you have replenished the original rez volume with fresh water, then it is time to change out the rez with fresh water and new nutes.

Never add nutes between nute changes*
until you have experience with the nutrients you are using
and you must have a tds meter.

Add fresh water once or twice a day to maintain the rez volume.

Do not adjust the pH before adding water to the rez.

Most of the time you will find that adding fresh water to top off the rez, will bring the pH back to normal range.

Check the pH and adjust if necessary, after adding water to top off the rez.

If you have a 5 gl rez, and you have added 5 gl over the last few days to maintain the rez level at the full mark, then it is time for a complete change out.

Keep and re-fill your plastic jugs to help maintain your add back count.

* unless you have experience with the nutrients you are using,
you must have a tds meter to add nutes back.
===================================================
2. The pH Rule :
There are separate pH rules for RO and tap water.

We will discuss RO first.

With RO, you will control the buffers.
There are three chemicals
that will allow you to get a stablized nute solution
without causing any nutrient lockout.

First you need to get some AN Barricade
which is Potassium Silicate.

You should also get some Potassium Carbonate,
and Potassium Hydroxide.

I buy these two chemicals premixed
in the powdered form from GH,
and then add RO to make a solution,
which I use to increase the pH with my eye dropper.

So here is the drill.

Add the nutes and any additives you are using,
and then measure the pH. (do not add Barricade until the pH falls below 5.6)

Most of the time the ph will be around 5.6
right after you add the nutes.

In a few hours check the pH
and it will be down as the buffer is overcome.
(I let it go down until 5.2-5.4
and then add Barricade to bring the pH up to 5.6).

Add one drop of barricade per gl,
and then check the pH.
( you need an eyedropper)

Keep using Barricade to bring the pH back to 5.6
until you have reached the max dose of .5ml/gl
(5 drops/gl of barricade max)

After you have maxed out the barricade,
then the next time the pH falls,
start using the GH Potassium Carbonate/Hydroxide powder in RO solution,
to bring the pH back up to 5.6
and after a couple of days the pH will stop moving.

You will have the solution buffered
with these three potassium molecules
and can reach a perfectly stable equilibrium.

Now the pH will start to rise as the plant eats the nutes.
So this from this point you will add back a small amount of nutes,
to bring the pH back down to 5.6-5.7.

You need a tds meter to do this,
and you must have the water level full at every reading.

When you add nutes to RO water, the nutes alone will probably lower the ph to around 5.6 If the ph drops below 5.6 after you have added new nutes to RO water, use .1ml/gl Barricade to buffer the ph back up to 5.6.

Solutions with RO or distilled water
will require the use of an eye dropper to maintain pH.

Measure pH between each drop,
until you are familiar with your solutions requirements.

------------------------------------------------------------------
These are the rules for tapwater,
or water over 50ppm and/or initial pH of near 8.

After you add nutes to your water,
the pH should be close to 5.6.

If your water is very hard, over 200ppm,
then you will need to add pH down
(Phosphoric acid, or Nitric acid)
to achieve 5.6.

In a few hours,
as the buffers absorbs the acids,
the pH will move up,
back to near the original pH of the water.

So, you will need to continue to add pH down,
at least twice a day,
to re-establish the pH back at 5.6

After doing this for a few days,
the pH will become stable for a few hours,
maybe even for a day or so,
and then the pH will fall below 5.6 without adding any pH down.

When the pH falls without you adding pH down,
you have met the pH rule.

This is when it is time to change the nutes,
even if you have not met the Add Back Rule

For some nutes,
it is best if you always let the pH move from low to high,
and then you adjust it back down,
while other nutes will react in the opposite way,
depending on whether the mfg decided to buffer the formula or not.

Try to never allow the pH lower than 5.2 or higher than 6.2,
ideally you will maintain 5.6,
but in reality you will probably drift between 5.2 and 6.0

The time that this sequence takes will vary with the plant size,
the amount of water the plant is consuming/transpiring,
and the concentrtation of the nute solution (ppm/nute load).

If you are growing with tapwater,
the pH rule is the best method to determine when to change the nutes.
It can be as long as 10 days, and as short as 4 days.

If you must use tapwater,
It is highly recommended to use a Hard Water nutrient.

Your rez volume, the phase of your grow, and the type of nutes you have
will determine how often you need to adjust the pH.

Your job is to maintain the pH,
and change out the nutes at the appropriate time.
==============================================
 
whatever nute maker you use they have a chart that tells you when to empty.Its usually every 1 to 2 weeks you change the res and you top off in between times
 
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