Yellowing/greenish new growth

well guys here’s the deal. This is my second grow. First was in soil. This is hydro.
I am using 1 mh 1000 watt and I have another when they get larger. About 2 ft from plants currently. PPM is 1110. Ph is stable at 5.9 to 6.2. Root temp is constant 69 with water cooler. Leaf temp at 78 degrees. Room temp 74 to 75. Room is heated and cooled. Plants with yellowing lleaves are northern light #5 auto. These were free seeds. The other plants are photos. Yes I know it’s not smart to mix but they were free and I have money so I’m just learning about growing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have pics I’ll show you of the NL and a couple from the younger photos. The photos are showing a few of the same signs but not as bad. Oh I’m using fox farm nutrients at 1/2 to 3/4 strength. Feel free for anymore questions.

I think your light is too bright /too many photons for the temp and level of co2. I would recommend backing that light way off like to 3 to 4 feet and foliar spray with 200 ppm of 10-0-0 granular furt or ammonium nitrate or calcium nitrate. Plus a gran or 2 of Epson salt to balance it out. Young plants can't take too much light till they really get chooching

I would highly doubt this has anything to do with light burn or a nitrogen deficiency! Light burn will hurt the top leaves, not the ones below the canopy! Nitrogen also doesn't cause these symptoms. I don't grow in hydro, so not sure of how much you should feed..though 1100 ppm seems a bit much for an auto. The signs im seeing are an advanced magnesium deficiency on your 3rd pic. Is that because of a lockout due to maybe too much p or k (evidenced from the skinnier new growth in pic 3), or is there not enough magnesium in your res? Also, not sure why your leaves are all soaked, but its not a good practice, especially under the lights..maybe that's what caused the leaf burns?

Well sometimes I spray them with a mist every 2 to 3 days. Just did it before pics. Anyway, I’m lost on what to do. Honestly I don’t care about the autos but it looks like it’s getting to the photos also. I don’t know if I should flush entire system but I did that 6 days ago. I have ff flower kiss folios spay I could use on them. Guys I’m at a loss.

well I gave my advice take it or don't. Good day

If your misting with plain water that can cause deficiencies, learned this the hard way. I was spraying mine right as the lights go out though. As was said you should be misting at lights out.

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Oh you also. I didn’t mean to not take your advice. I am I was just replying. I moved lights up already. Thank you guys so much.

Uncle Reefer said:

well I gave my advice take it or don't. Good day

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he shouldn't take your advice! To suggest to feed it a 10-0-0 feed, is idiotic!!! You're telling him to hurt his plants more..hopefully he doesn't follow that advice..as again..its 100% sure that your issue is not nitrogen related..and not an issue of light stress!!!
Simple common sense tells you..if it's light stress..then the top would be hurting..not the leaves below..same with a nitrogen deficiency...the yellowing doesnt start at the top..and lack of nitrogen does not cause intervenial chlorosis! Terrible advice dude!!!

milehightexan said:

Well sometimes I spray them with a mist every 2 to 3 days. Just did it before pics. Anyway, I’m lost on what to do. Honestly I don’t care about the autos but it looks like it’s getting to the photos also. I don’t know if I should flush entire system but I did that 6 days ago. I have ff flower kiss folios spay I could use on them. Guys I’m at a loss.

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Stop misting them! When you mist them..the plant has less need to take up water from the roots..where the food is..instead you are giving it the water only..but no food..a nd then you see deficiencies like yours! Stop foliar spraying with water!!!

I have a hard time believing 1100ppm is 1/4 to 1/2 strength and if it is that's crazy for those girls. I'm new but I'm guessing you of lockout due to high ppms causing nute burn? To me those lower crunchy leaves scream excessive feeding and then everything else reads lockout?

We also haven't seen your roots because even in a perfect environment root rot is a bitch!

Should he be flushing his system to start fresh with maybe 500 to 800 ppm?

Well like I said it’s 1/2 to 3/4 strength. I’ll take a couple pictures of of the roots. Okay what was said about light burn makes since as well as misting. Could they burned part be from using folios feeding? Anyway I’m posting my roots.

Those roots in the second one are toast except for the bottom 1/4. Your first photo isn't bad bit ot will spread if they are in the same solution, even of different tanks.

Unless it's the strangest staining I've ever seen!

You have new root growth in the net and bottom but there's still so much slime and gunk.

SO there we are you got bad root rot, because your medium is too warm from your light that is too close. You plant is getting lighter in color because it barely has any healthy roots to feed it.

I stand by my recommendation. Once it gets going you can stop with the spraying and bring the light down a bit

Drain your system flush it with plain water maybe flush it again and then add your nutrient solution at a lower PPM and add .4 grams of HTH pool shock per 10 gallons of water. You may also want to soak your net pots in h202 bath while you're doing everything else if you can. If you can't give the net pots a bath then I would spray them down with an h202 solution of one mil per gallon of food grade h202 or 10 mL per gallon of store-bought h202 which isn't the best option. After you're done spraying them down with an H2O to Bath you want to spray them down with some type of sprayer to remove as much dead particles as you can.

A lot of people might even tell you to just toss them but I hate giving up and proving people wrong but both times I got proven wrong actually.

the slime is algae. you need to prevent all aspects of light from getting to your grow water or algae will develop and choke off the roots. you also have signs of heat damage on the leaves as that strong light is too close. it's not mag def as noted by blitz. I'd toss the algae plants and thoroughly clean everything with bleach and water, block off all light leaks, and start over. otherwise that algae won't go away. saying you feed 1/2 strength isn't correct when you give 1100 ppm. that's a strong level of fert. sorry but I think those plants are toast due to all that algae. they can be saved but the chemicals required might kill the plants. hydroguard might help kill that algae.

Okay the older plant was before I got the water cooler. Hence this is my first grow. When the older plants were starting the water temps were in 80s. 1100 ppm is correct when your water ppm is 400 by itself. I am working on a fix for that also. I may be ignorant of this but I’m not a lier. Okay root fuked ones are gone and flushing and all that. See what happens now.

milehightexan said:

Okay the older plant was before I got the water cooler. Hence this is my first grow. When the older plants were starting the water temps were in 80s. 1100 ppm is correct when your water ppm is 400 by itself. I am working on a fix for that also. I may be ignorant of this but I’m not a lier. Okay root fuked ones are gone and flushing and all that. See what happens now.

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Arent you suppose to be using RO water with added calmag? I thought you aren't suppose to use tap water for hyrdo?

jtrizzy said:

Arent you suppose to be using RO water with added calmag? I thought you aren't suppose to use tap water for hyrdo?

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Lots of people do and they're fine but I tried twice and paid the price, back to distilled or RO.

The water must have been warmer than 69 or your air stones aren't working. The nutes are pretty strong, much stronger than those little babies can use. If you can save them I wouldn't expect a full recovery.

You could try to take cuttings from it and see how it goes if you have a cloner?