yellow and bronzing continues, help

Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
(OUTDOOR, SO. CAL./LARGE POTS, WHITE WIDOW O.F. AND BU'S BLEND MIX 50/50 25% COMPOST AND MYCORRHIZAE AT FINAL TRANSPLANT/ FOOD: O.F. GROW BIG/ FISH&KELP & MOLASSES AT HALF REC. STRENGTH. WATER PH'D TO BETWEEN 5.25 AND 6.5 ((EACH GALLON INDIVIDUALLY BALANCED SO A FLUCTUATION IS ALLOWED))
My "Cal/mag deficient" thread's gone stale but my problem has not! ( This yellowing between veins with bronze spotting that starts on the veins and grows to envelope the whole leaf until it falls off. Started on low fan leaves now spreading to all fan leaves. Picking off dead material is leaving the plants looking naked. If I can't stop it now the grow is gone. I flushed first, then fed with cal/mag then next watering was with epsom salt none has had any effect. Temps in the 110's didn't help. Plants drooped and looked dead. I had to drag all plants inside for the weekend!! They were happy to get out of the heat and picked back up but the "septoria" symptoms are still spreading. HELP!
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Gdub51 said:
(OUTDOOR, SO. CAL./LARGE POTS, WHITE WIDOW O.F. AND BU'S BLEND MIX 50/50 25% COMPOST AND MYCORRHIZAE AT FINAL TRANSPLANT/ FOOD: O.F. GROW BIG/ FISH&KELP & MOLASSES AT HALF REC. STRENGTH. WATER PH'D TO BETWEEN 5.25 AND 6.5 ((EACH GALLON INDIVIDUALLY BALANCED SO A FLUCTUATION IS ALLOWED))
My "Cal/mag deficient" thread's gone stale but my problem has not! ( This yellowing between veins with bronze spotting that starts on the veins and grows to envelope the whole leaf until it falls off. Started on low fan leaves now spreading to all fan leaves. Picking off dead material is leaving the plants looking naked. If I can't stop it now the grow is gone. I flushed first, then fed with cal/mag then next watering was with epsom salt none has had any effect. Temps in the 110's didn't help. Plants drooped and looked dead. I had to drag all plants inside for the weekend!! They were happy to get out of the heat and picked back up but the "septoria" symptoms are still spreading. HELP!
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I remember this issue you were having from another thread, yeah need pictures, maybe think about some liquid copper fungicide if you're still thinking septoria ? I'm not an outdoor grower, but I might start treating proactive at this point ?

do you know @Thumper937 ? he's an outdoor grower from my general area who's helped me with septoria questions in the past, you might try to get ahold of him, he's a good dude and he's got good info on this, but he's going to recommend liquid copper fungicide treatments too, I bought it on his recommendation recently, anyway get some pics up bro
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
Beachwalker said:
I remember this issue you were having from another thread, yeah need pictures, maybe think about some liquid copper fungicide if you're still thinking septoria ? I'm not an outdoor grower, but I might start treating proactive at this point ?

do you know @Thumper937 ? he's an outdoor grower from my general area who's helped me with septoria questions in the past, you might try to get ahold of him, he's a good dude and he's got good info on this, but he's going to recommend liquid copper fungicide treatments too, I bought it on his recommendation recently, anyway get some pics up bro
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I will try Thumper, Thanks, Gdub
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Gdub51 said:
I will try Thumper, Thanks, Gdub
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Dude I'm not sure I linked you to the right Thumper, I think it might be Thumper60 who gave me the septoria advice, anyway basically what he told me was use Liquid copper fungicide (he uses it outside) I wouldn't use it in flower past two weeks or so but no problem with veg
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
Most I've found is from studying outside of cannabis. Bottom line is to kill whatever fungus it is and copper is a good one. I'm reading tonight about mancozeb or chlorothalonil for use on this and which may be better. Can't seem to determine if the spores are spread by contact or systemically. Since these substances are all sprayed on the leaves, I'm confused since they say the disease is spread by the infected leaves themselves by contact with other leaves or by falling and thereby contaminating the soil their in. I'm going with contact because it has spread so fast. I drenched the leaves in a diluted hydrogen peroxide spray this morning. Will go for fungicide tomorrow.
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
and OH, I won't be using Eagle 20. "Recent news from Steep Hill Labs that 85 percent of the San Francisco Bay Area “medical” cannabis evaluated by the company tested positive for fungicide myclobutanil (marketed by Dow AgroSciences as Eagle 20) has alarmed cultivators and patients alike. When heated (as during smoking), myclobutanil converts to highly poisonous hydrogen cyanide." from Woah Stork
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
Beachwalker said:
Dude I'm not sure I linked you to the right Thumper, I think it might be Thumper60 who gave me the septoria advice, anyway basically what he told me was use Liquid copper fungicide (he uses it outside) I wouldn't use it in flower past two weeks or so but no problem with veg
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I did a copper fungicide wash. Plants seem better this A.M. I will let you know how it progresses.
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Gdub51 said:
Most I've found is from studying outside of cannabis. Bottom line is to kill whatever fungus it is and copper is a good one. I'm reading tonight about mancozeb or chlorothalonil for use on this and which may be better. Can't seem to determine if the spores are spread by contact or systemically. Since these substances are all sprayed on the leaves, I'm confused since they say the disease is spread by the infected leaves themselves by contact with other leaves or by falling and thereby contaminating the soil their in. I'm going with contact because it has spread so fast. I drenched the leaves in a diluted hydrogen peroxide spray this morning. Will go for fungicide tomorrow.
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If recall when the pores are opened on the leaves, the airborn fungus spores fall into the pores which then become infected under the right weather conditions, and then it become systemic
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
Beachwalker said:
The label is kind of hard to decipher!? What ratio are you mixing it at?
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I mix at the rate stated for Tomatoes. Yes the examples are for commercial use, you need to divide by the factor for your growth. They use 1000 square feet as the base line, I then just divide that by a factor of 10 for about 100 square feet which all my plants would fit in. I think that worked out to 8 tbsps. into my mixing sprayer. (but check my math) You need a mixing sprayer to apply this well. You need to get the underside of the leaves so I hold a group of branches at a time and spray with an upward stroke. The flow is great enough that this also coats the top side of the leaves well and enough gets in the soil to arrest spores there. When dry you should see a trace of the blue copper left on the leaves both under and on top. I just applied the second dose. Spread of the problem slowed by about 80% on the first app. Hoping the second finishes it off. In the meantime the grow has re-invigorated. Now if I can just dodge the 100 plus heat wave coming next week. I had to take THE WHOLE GROW indoors last time. My wife will kill me if I have to do that again. After study, I have decided that my wife, while watering the rest of the garden with a bare hose indiscriminately splashed the spores up from the soil onto the pot plants. That paired with a record cold spring and early summer here I believe to be the source of the trouble.
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
I hear you dude. unfortunately I've been spraying plants forever so I've got that aspect of it down LOL, but I was unsure of the ratio, tomatoes says 2 ounces per gallon, but I mixed it at 1oz/gal initially because I burn sulfur 2×week too, if it doesn't work at this ratio I'll up it, thanks
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
That is the ratio I used and it worked fine. Now after 2nd treatment, progression has stopped and today I spotted the first pistils so it's on to flowering. Another heat wave coming has me very worried. Last one wilted the whole grow till I had to lug them all inside! They are so big now I'm afraid moving them will start breaking branches off if it doesn't put me down with a strained back. They definitely don't like it over 100.
 
Gdub51

Gdub51

Well-Known Member
I hope the fungus is gone for sure as I don't like the idea of adding any minerals to the plant except potassium after flowering. I've detected a harsh edge to the smoke of bud fed after flower with chemical nutrients. I've added kelp and molasses this year in the hope these will offer some food after flower starts that slowly runs low and out by September. Kelp is also supposed to bolster heat stress resistance which I sure need this year... supposed to go well into the 90's here the next few... I'm White Widow and plan to harvest in late Sept.
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Temperature 75 to 85 with humidity way up in the 90% for 3 days now, supposed to like this most of the week

Not sure sure when to reapply copper sulfate, how often do you suggest?

Also thinking of spraying baking soda in between copper treatments, but wonder if that would wash the copper off, any thoughts on that?
 
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