Will 2 of these 600 watt LED COB diode lights match a 1000 watt HPS?

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
https://www.ebay.com/itm/600-Watt-LED-Grow-Light-Natural-Sun-Huge-Yields-High-Resin-meet-US-Standards/253472159579?hash=item3b041e375b:g:ixEAAOSwAO9ZOjvC

Dude claims 40 years of electrical lighting experience.
30,000 lumens? Uses 300 watts at the plug. They claim it is close to 400 or 600 watt HPS.
$129.00
I counted about 410 diodes.
I am thinking you may need 3 to match a 1000 watt HPS but you are up to 900 watts of power.
A 1000 watt HPS puts out about 130,000 to 140,000 lumens.

Note to Haters: Move to another thread.
Don't bring me down man!

All people on RIU are seeking the secret knowledge of the seeds and Gaia whilst astral traveling. These buzzkills bring me down - MAN!
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Note to Haters: Move to another thread.
posting realistic assessments about the lights you are asking about is not "hating" if they are in fact substandard, don't take it personally. You seem to be always on the hunt for deals that are too-good-to-be true, so dont be shocked when they are in fact, demonstrated to be too good to be true.

short answer:
140000 lm/ "nearly" 30000 lumens = 5 of those@250W each

HPS is cheaper and more efficient

long answer:
dude claims it is 600W
then he claims it is 300 "True watts"
then he claims it draws 2.1A (which assuming it is 120V is actually 250W)

he then claims it is "nearly" 30000 lumens (and gives you no information how he determined that number)
then he claims it will "easily outperform" a 400W HPS (which is actually 50000 lumens)
then he claims it is "on par with the best 600w HPS" - well the "best" 600W HPD would be a DE, about 96,000 lumens


even if it really was 30000 lumens (which you have absolutely no way to verify), at 250 input watts thats only 120 lm/W which is pretty awful by todays standards

enough red flags for you? if i wanted 30000 lumens of cheap intermediate efficiency white phosphors id go buy 4 of these for $85 and call it a day
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-100-Watt-Equivalent-A19-LED-Light-Bulb-Daylight-4-Pack-455717/205887208
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
https://www.ebay.com/itm/600-Watt-LED-Grow-Light-Natural-Sun-Huge-Yields-High-Resin-meet-US-Standards/253472159579?hash=item3b041e375b:g:ixEAAOSwAO9ZOjvC

Dude claims 40 years of electrical lighting experience.
30,000 lumens? Uses 300 watts at the plug. They claim it is close to 400 or 600 watt HPS.
$129.00
I counted about 410 diodes.
I am thinking you may need 3 to match a 1000 watt HPS but you are up to 900 watts of power.
A 1000 watt HPS puts out about 130,000 to 140,000 lumens.

Note to Haters: Move to another thread.
Don't bring me down man!

All people on RIU are seeking the secret knowledge of the seeds and Gaia whilst astral traveling. These buzzkills bring me down - MAN!
30,000 lumens for 300W....

LOL - I can hit 30K lumens with 6 Samsung F strips at 30W each (180W total). For about the same cost.

This guy is selling junk.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member

diyled

Well-Known Member
Bridgelux simulator says differently:

Vero SE 29-C BXRC-30E10K0-C-xx-SE 2975ma 73.3v 218.0w 30000lm 428.0PPF 2.0umol/J

For a 3000k 80 CRI at 1400ma it is:

Vero SE 29-C BXRC-30E10K0-C-xx-SE 1400 68.3 95.6 16145 230.3 2.4
You cant just come up with System level efficacy (µMol/j) off a data sheet. They only give you rough chip level numbers which is just a base number, theres still basic math to be done from that.

Tj.
Driver efficiency.
optic loses.

All these need working out.
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
You cant just come up with System level efficacy (µMol/j) off a data sheet. They only give you rough chip level numbers which is just a base number, theres still basic math to be done from that.

Tj.
Driver efficiency.
optic loses.

All these need working out.

I'll stick with what the manufacturer says.
 

diyled

Well-Known Member
Yeah the one(s) Bridgelux does the testing with and publishes the results
Bridgelux give a PPF output based of Tj and current. This isnt sphere data just maths.

You cant get µMol/j from ppf output without knowing the total system wattage and optic losses.

I could build 2 lights, both use say 6x vero29 C 3000k 80cri. One uses individual lfp drivers and one uses HLG-320 drivers

They both output the same PPF but the system level efficacy (µMol/j) is completely different. Due to the divers efficiencies. Then we have optics, thermal performance of the heat sinks used, layout of the fixture etc etc..
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
As a rule of thumb, you can deduct 0,2-0,4μmol/J for efficiency on system level depending on
- driver effiency,
- ceiling heights/canopy distance and
- reflecting walls/no walls.

Manufacturer shpeere tests are probably also done at 25°C.
 
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Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
Bridgelux give a PPF output based of Tj and current. This isnt sphere data just maths.

You cant get µMol/j from ppf output without knowing the total system wattage and optic losses.

I could build 2 lights, both use say 6x vero29 C 3000k 80cri. One uses individual lfp drivers and one uses HLG-320 drivers

They both output the same PPF but the system level efficacy (µMol/j) is completely different. Due to the divers efficiencies. Then we have optics, thermal performance of the heat sinks used, layout of the fixture etc etc..

Yeah because they got all the testing done so that information could be used for commercial growing.

Those simulators are used by lighting architects for large lighting system such as those to display a high rise tower in a major city or lighting events. Thousands of cobs are used so Bridgelux has to provide accurate information or they probably get sued so they have a vested interest to get it right. The numbers help us growers plan and gets us within tolerance when measured in action.

My reference point for the statement is specific to that of the power being delivered to the cob. All that other stuff is superfluous as I consider it necessary overhead. No optics, no heat sinks and adequate ambient airflow leaves driver inefficiencies to contend with. Bridgelux has a +/- 7% tolerance so it is a wash.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Not hating on you, trying to help.
A real modern 300W light pushes 51000 lumens so you are already getting 40% LESS light for the electricity you are using with those cheap lights.
The cost between a real 300W system and these wannabes is not as much as you would think.
$150 for 3 100W 3k samsung strips
$80ish for a 320W 48V driver
a few more pennies for some alu channel to fix it to and some wire.
 

Fevs.

Well-Known Member
I'm not in to the technical side of it all. I'm not a smart man...:dunce: But if you really want to know, just buy 1, set it up in a 3ft tent and grow a plant under it. If you get 10-12 ounces/zips from it.. happy days!

Just to give you the heads though.. I wouldn't hold your breath for it out producing a 1000w hps? Or even 2 of them, maybe even 4 of them would struggle.

The design, I'd have to say the leds are so close together that surely they will burn out before you found out anyway? lol

You would be better off buying really small panels, so you can have one over each plant. Maybe look in to combining small leds with cmh. That works a treat, without all the heat! Plus quality is far superior to other lights on offer. It's just a pleasant way to grow.

I spent loads on leds. They outperform a 1000w hps, bit I have to use 8000w-1000w to do that. I knew what I was investing in and went balls deep. In fact I have spent around £5000 English pounds on leds. Again, I'm not a smart man, so take it as you will :cool:

I combine 2015 blurple tech with 2017 tech. All my panels are discontinued. I use Orsam cobs + Horticultural cobs. I have no regrets at all spending £5000 :cool:

In the growing world ''Buy Cheap, Buy Twice!!''

DSCN4248.JPG
 
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