What size pots do you use to pot up in?

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
For compost I use the following, in the order I use them:

A small 8cm pot for seedling --> 1L --> 3L --> 6L --> 11L

I am planning on going from 1L to 15L (Autopot) when using coco.

I was wondering what size pots you use?
 

purplehazin

Well-Known Member
that seems like way too much transplanting to me...

you should only need 1 transplant, not 4. Your starter/seedling/early veg cup and then your final pot. No need to have 5 different pots lol

Im new to potting up though so excuse my ignorance
 

kevin

Well-Known Member
I take it you've never heard of the potting up procedure then! With compost that's a bad idea.

may be a bad idea the way you do things but the way i do it, it is perfect for me. tell me about the potting up procedure or give me a link and i'll see if it's something i might want to try.
 

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
^ No you do need more than two pots (although you could get away with fewer than five obviously). Potting up is a necessary horticultural technique that's been used for many years. If you don't pot up like you're supposed to the compost that's not being used by the roots can become sour. Cannabis is a plant just like any other so it should be treated as such.
 

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
I can't edit my post. I just wanted to add:


Obviously you can grow without doing this but you'll get better results if you do, especially if you're going into large pots which hold more compost that is more susceptible to going off.
 

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
FFS, why can't I edit my posts?

If you care about yield then potting up will help. Potting up gradually will build a dense rootball and more yield when you flower.

If you put a plant straight into a pot that is too big for it then you can have problems with the soil going mouldy and sour.
 

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
And here's a post by the legendary Oldtimer1:

A plant needs to build as large a rootmass as possible from an early stage, this gives sturdy plants full of vitality, this is why when growing in compost we recommend starting in small pots and as soon as the compost is full of roots pot on to a larger pot. By doing this in stages until you reach the final pot size you maximise the root mass for any given final pot size. You get many times the root mass you would if you planted a small cutting/seedling in a final pot. Once the plant goes into flowering mode it uses the roots it made to build the parts needed to reproduce its self, if the roots are inadequate for the job the plant will sacrifice parts of its self to make the reproductive parts.

Out of interest another problem with planting small plants in final pots, is the plants roots only occupy a tiny portion of the compost, so the unoccupied part tends to become anaerobic inhibiting new growth and encouraging the multiplication of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, the larger the pot the worse the problem.

In the early days of cannabis growing indoors stoners tended to try and grow like this as its easy and its what you would do if you were planting outdoors in soil, well as we have said compost is not soil, its a medium that is made to act in place of soil in an enclosed container. The early books on cannabis growing answered the problem by advising that the compost was mixed half and half with perlite, rather than the practice of potting as used by the horticultural industry world wide. So the myth still abounds today in the cannabis world today, that cannabis needs loads of drainage. Its not true.

HS the symptoms you are are seeing, are of a plant in decline, stripping all the elements out of the old leaves from the bottom of the plants sunleaves. Its something you do see anyway, but not to your extent and as early. It means the plant as a whole is not receiving enough nutrition. Its ability to do so comes from several things, 1.] that it has sufficient root mass, 2.] that the root mass is given adequate nutrient for the plants needs 3.]assuming you have an adequate root mass, that the planting medium is making the nutrients available to them. The final thing, low temperatures will arrest root development, neither the root ball or the ambient air temperature should never drop below 16c.

HS if you used the potting on method I still suspect your problem stems from a compost problem. I know Arnie uses potting on as when he first used it reported back on it and how much better it was, again his symptoms point to a compost problem.

ie he says nothing has changed but he is seeing weak and slower top growth in early veg, this has to be poor root development. Strong root development and maintaining a healthy root mass give a sturdy top structure. A good fresh compost should give this without any additions apart from water.
 

purplehazin

Well-Known Member
Ive never had a problem with any plant where the soil goes "mouldy and sour". Starting in a 16oz cup then transplanting to a 3 gal works perfectly for me. Maybe you're doing something wrong if you get moldy soil during that stage?

Edit: I just read oldtimer's post. You're referring to growing in compost and not soil, so my bad. I dont have any experience in using compost so Ill stay out of it lol :)
 

kevin

Well-Known Member
i start my seeds in rapid rooters, as soon as they sprout they get stuck in the 3 gallon pots. by 2 or 3 weeks the root system has worked it's way through the soil. i let my compost piles age at least 3 months, longer during the colder months. i think if your having souring issues, you might want to let your compost cook a little longer.
 

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
Garden compost is composted organic waste which made from things like kitchen waste that has gone through a completely transformation through aerobic bacteria, protozoa, fungi, earthworms and nematodes transforming it into rich organic nutrient rich garden compost that can be dug the soil. The other type of compost refers to a potting mix containing things like peat, peat moss, loam sand etc.
 

T.H.Cammo

Well-Known Member
I just thought i'd add my $.02 worth, since I use a DIY Soil Mix that is both compost and soil. All ingredients are "Store Bought" and constitute 1/4 of the overall volume, per "Part". "Eccescentially" it is:
1 part Top Soil
1 part Compost
1 part Perlite and/or Vermiculite
1 part "Composted Steer Manure" or "equivelant", about 1-1-1 to 1.5-1.5-1.5 (NPK).

I like to repot often, to keep the rootball well developed as well as supplying added doses of nutrients through the added soil mix. I go through 6 different sizes of pots (from 6 oz. Yogurt containers to 3 gal. pots). Sometimes I use 7 different pots, if I decide 3 gal. isn't going to be big enough and add a 5 gal. pot just before flowering!
 

Artificial emotion

Well-Known Member
I just thought i'd add my $.02 worth, since I use a DIY Soil Mix that is both compost and soil. All ingredients are "Store Bought" and constitute 1/4 of the overall volume, per "Part". "Eccescentially" it is:
1 part Top Soil
1 part Compost
1 part Perlite and/or Vermiculite
1 part "Composted Steer Manure" or "equivelant", about 1-1-1 to 1.5-1.5-1.5 (NPK).

I like to repot often, to keep the rootball well developed as well as supplying added doses of nutrients through the added soil mix. I go through 6 different sizes of pots (from 6 oz. Yogurt containers to 3 gal. pots). Sometimes I use 7 different pots, if I decide 3 gal. isn't going to be big enough and add a 5 gal. pot just before flowering!
Finally, someone that knows what they're doing! This business of just planting directly into massive containers pretty much straight away is very poor practise!
 

Total Head

Well-Known Member
I still don't understand the science behind it. transplanting more than once = shock more than once and stunted growth more than once. unless you are growing monsters i don't see how one would ever be able to feed during veg if the soil is always fresh and hot. and how exactly does going from 8 cm thru 4 pot sizes make any more roots than just sticking it straight into the big pot? i would imagine that the plant has many more oppurtunities to get rootbound being that it is "always outgrowing" its current home. no one has explained the actual theroy behind this. i'm quite interested in the idea though.
 
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