What is the Best Method to Keep Plants Short outdoors?

Srgtgriffdonutt

Active Member
So what im getting from this is basically my only hope is lst and scrogging since i wouldnt want to waste seeds on too small plants. By the way does anyone know what happens if you pass the plant limit? Its supposedly 6 where im from. But what if 12 are on a property?
 

Cannabis.Queen

Well-Known Member
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Bend the plant over. Lmfao
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Honestly though, well that was honest. I like HST and I twist and bend method my plants to create a huge knot.

I also start my plants indoors in march/April then put them out in May :)

Mine stay small, but wide as fuck.
 

6ixtynin9

Well-Known Member
So this outdoor season I’ve decided to grow some Dutch Passion Durban Poison and G13 Hashplant by 710. Last year my plants were peaking over my 6ft fence and I had to harvest a little early to keep them from catching too much attention. And I didn’t even use nutrients, just plain non Ph’d tap water. Now that I’ve got a few more grows under my belt I’ve started to use nutrients and have noticed my auto sizes have doubled since the non Nutrient days. I’ve read how some African strains can reach 20 ft tall. This is my dilemma. I’ve read into topping, lst, and mainlining to keep bushier and shorter but I want to hear from your guys’ experiences. What would you do? Any extra strain info is appreciated too to let me know what I’m in for.
Top, LST and SCROG. Also, foliar with seaweed/kelp extract to keep internodes tight and compact.
 

6ixtynin9

Well-Known Member
You sure about the kelp though? I swore it was kelp to make huge plants
Well yes but huge and tall are 2 different things. If you root drench, Kelp will indeed increase the plants' growth rate. If you foliar, it helps keep the internodes tight. Think Bubba Kush, huge bushy plant but short and compact. Here's a shot of my gorilla glue #4. It's known by many who've grown it, to be a stretcher. Look how close the nodes are to one another on this lower branch.
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Seaweed is not an end-all solution but it does help a lot in my case.
 

gwheels

Well-Known Member
LST Training and pick some shorter strains. There is no light flip outside so it is a little more problematic. And as was said put them out later to reduce the veg time.
 

Srgtgriffdonutt

Active Member
Well yes but huge and tall are 2 different things. If you root drench, Kelp will indeed increase the plants' growth rate. If you foliar, it helps keep the internodes tight. Think Bubba Kush, huge bushy plant but short and compact. Here's a shot of my gorilla glue #4. It's known by many who've grown it, to be a stretcher. Look how close the nodes are to one another on this lower branch.
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Seaweed is not an end-all solution but it does help a lot in my case.
I’m from San Diego, despite the south dirty beaches, can I pick up some fresh kelp and juice it then apply? Or should I go store bought for extract? Cause I’m really digging the close nodes in the pics
 
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6ixtynin9

Well-Known Member
I’m from San Diego, despite the south dirty beaches, can I pick up some fresh kelp and juice it then apply? Or should I go store bought for extract? Cause I’m really digging the close nodes in the pics
I find that seaweed found in Half Moon Bay and Cresent City tends to be a lot cleaner and less contaminated but you can go to the San Diego harbour, Ocean Beach, Imperial Beach, Sunset Cliffs, etc. and get you some. I occasionally grab me a good handful of seaweed to take back home when I visit Diego to crab and fish. Not sure about juicing the raw product and foliar spraying with it. Never tried it that way but it's not that easy. How I use the raw seaweed is mix it (along with fish and crab shells) into my soil.

Keep in mind, seaweed varies from one species to the next and are not created equal. Certain species are better than others. Also, the different content of active material and nutrient in the end product will be obtained by the different methods - i.e. chemical hydrolysis, physical extraction and biological fermentation. Unlike building soil and diy nutrients, pesticides, etc. extracting kelp and other raw sea material is a complicated process and can get pretty involved. I'm not a scientist and don't intend to be one so I stick with the bottled stuff. It's just much easier and i get the actual active ingredient that i want from it.

I'm currently using GrowMore Seaweed Extract (California made) and Nectars For The Gods Bloom Chaos (Oregon made). I alternate between the 2. Nitrozyme is another really good one but is a little too expensive for me. GM's Seaweed Extract is cheap as shit and works as good or better than most expensive brands out there. And it can be had for around $20 a gallon, which will last you a pretty long time. Bloom Chaos is the shit but is more on the expensive side. It makes your lateral branches and budsites pop like crazy. If you add humic acid, namely Bioag Ful-Power, to the mix, you've just created rocket fuel for your plants.

On a side note, when foliar spraying with kelp, there's so much more benefits other than keeping the plants squat. You greatly reduce plant stress, reduce shock when transplanting or taking cuts, increase nutrient uptake, increase growth rate, encourages root growth and root mass, increases flower production, increases aroma and flavor, increase overall quality of health, and I'm just naming a few.
 

Srgtgriffdonutt

Active Member
I find that seaweed found in Half Moon Bay and Cresent City tends to be a lot cleaner and less contaminated but you can go to the San Diego harbour, Ocean Beach, Imperial Beach, Sunset Cliffs, etc. and get you some. I occasionally grab me a good handful of seaweed to take back home when I visit Diego to crab and fish. Not sure about juicing the raw product and foliar spraying with it. Never tried it that way but it's not that easy. How I use the raw seaweed is mix it (along with fish and crab shells) into my soil.

Keep in mind, seaweed varies from one species to the next and are not created equal. Certain species are better than others. Also, the different content of active material and nutrient in the end product will be obtained by the different methods - i.e. chemical hydrolysis, physical extraction and biological fermentation. Unlike building soil and diy nutrients, pesticides, etc. extracting kelp and other raw sea material is a complicated process and can get pretty involved. I'm not a scientist and don't intend to be one so I stick with the bottled stuff. It's just much easier and i get the actual active ingredient that i want from it.

I'm currently using GrowMore Seaweed Extract (California made) and Nectars For The Gods Bloom Chaos (Oregon made). I alternate between the 2. Nitrozyme is another really good one but is a little too expensive for me. GM's Seaweed Extract is cheap as shit and works as good or better than most expensive brands out there. And it can be had for around $20 a gallon, which will last you a pretty long time. Bloom Chaos is the shit but is more on the expensive side. It makes your lateral branches and budsites pop like crazy. If you add humic acid, namely Bioag Ful-Power, to the mix, you've just created rocket fuel for your plants.

On a side note, when foliar spraying with kelp, there's so much more benefits other than keeping the plants squat. You greatly reduce plant stress, reduce shock when transplanting or taking cuts, increase nutrient uptake, increase growth rate, encourages root growth and root mass, increases flower production, increases aroma and flavor, increase overall quality of health, and I'm just naming a few.
Just swooped a gallon of GM's extract online right now! Im hoping to get it by tuesday, how often do you wash your leaves? Can i just spray em off or do i literally need to wipe each one down
 

charface

Well-Known Member
I’ll make sure to try that. Do you think there’s such a thing as too much lst? Like getting my plants to grow horizontally. And I wish I didn’t have to be discreet, I mean I’m from SoCal so it’s not the law I’m worried about. Just a lot of low life neighbors who would try to rip me off. But I’ve also been looking into booby traps this year too :fire:
I have grown plants almost flush to the ground like ivy. By using landscape fabric stakes and tying the plant to them.
Not suggesting you do that but
It is an illustration of how far you can bend this plant to your will.
 

6ixtynin9

Well-Known Member
Just swooped a gallon of GM's extract online right now! Im hoping to get it by tuesday, how often do you wash your leaves? Can i just spray em off or do i literally need to wipe each one down
GrowMore's Seaweed Extract is based off of Norwegian kelp, one of the best and cleanest in the world. And it's cold press (no chemicals used for extraction), therefore it's fully organic, though they don't have the OMRI stamp (and they will never pay OMRI's bribe to get the stamp). So no, I rarely ever wash the leaves. You can if you want. It's entirely up to you. I've foliar for over 5 years with GM's seaweed and has never experienced clogged stomata pores or residue on the leaves. If you're going to foliar, I do highly recommend using some sort of surfacant in conjunction with the seaweed solution. Good luck. You won't regret it.
 

Srgtgriffdonutt

Active Member
Charface, I get what you’re saying I just got some garden training wire and have been testing the limits of my plants.

Is a completely horizontal main cola bad? I started lst a little late since it was my first time ever trying it and the main cola is completely at 90°

Tied down and I waited until 3rd week of July when I realized the drought was going to leave my plants exposed. Took a lot of duct tape and zip ties to fix split stalks and branches but turned out to be the prettiest patch I've ever had.
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MiddlerGuerilla do you know what height this photo was taken at? You may have found exactly what I’m looking for stubby beautiful shrubs
 

Srgtgriffdonutt

Active Member
GrowMore's Seaweed Extract is based off of Norwegian kelp, one of the best and cleanest in the world. And it's cold press (no chemicals used for extraction), therefore it's fully organic, though they don't have the OMRI stamp (and they will never pay OMRI's bribe to get the stamp). So no, I rarely ever wash the leaves. You can if you want. It's entirely up to you. I've foliar for over 5 years with GM's seaweed and has never experienced clogged stomata pores or residue on the leaves. If you're going to foliar, I do highly recommend using some sort of surfacant in conjunction with the seaweed solution. Good luck. You won't regret it.
I’ll trust you and just do it your way since I’m too lazy to wipe them, Any surfactant recommendations? Hopefully one I could pick up at Walmart where I’m getting the gm seaweed. Also dosage per gallon including the surfactant If you could but thanks for everything man. Can’t wait to see results :hump:
 
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6ixtynin9

Well-Known Member
I’ll trust you and just do it your way since I’m too lazy to wipe them, Any surfactant recommendations? Hopefully one I could pick up at Walmart where I’m getting the gm seaweed. Also dosage per gallon including the surfactant If you could but thanks for everything man. Can’t wait to see results :hump:
I use GrowMore EZ Wet. It's currently the only wetting agent (that I know of so far) that contains Saponin. It doubles as a natural insecticide that controls/kills soft body bug (i.e. aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, whiteflies, etc.) and act like a leaf wash.

I use .23 mL per OZ of seaweed (or 1 OZ per gal) and .04 mL per OZ of EZ Wet (or 5mL per gal). I incorporate Ful-Power to my solution too so I use half the amount listed above. Unless you have a shitload of plants or very large plants, mixing up 1 gallon of foliar is quite an overkill. That's way too much solution. Between my six 1 & 1/2 feet tall plants, 16 oz of solution would take care of all of it.

Tips - As with nutrient feeding, start out with quarter or half strength, then work your way up. Every genetic reacts differently. Foliar under shades, early morning, end of the day (if outdoor) or under weak lighting T5, CFL's, etc (if indoor). For the best effectiveness, give at least a minimum of 30 mins for the leaves for fully absorb the solution - this means no wind or air circulation for at least 30 mins, otherwise the solution will dry up before it gets used. Spray top and underside of leaves until you get runoff.
 
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