hyroot
Well-Known Member
you can get clamp lights from home deps. That's what tags took measurements with. But white reptile reflectors would be better but cost more. They would probably help produce higher par. So worth it.
Walmart 11w globes and Cree 9w globes for test comparison
- Thread starter Abiqua
- Start date
you can get clamp lights from home deps. That's what tags took measurements with. But white reptile reflectors would be better but cost more. They would probably help produce higher par. So worth it.
RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
I'll post a pic of 2 stripped A19s in a reptile reflector later when I get my cam. They fit nicely!
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yes we have 4 DIY modules and in the process of adding 8 more so it should total ~600W flower + 100W veg. But it will be a lot of work to build 8 more so it will be awhile. The driver boards are all assembled (24) constant current drivers ~700mA 25W.
Any particular reason you are going with 12v? In my experience, surprisingly the conversion from 120v AC down to 12v DC is rarely better than 75% efficient and then there are more losses going from constant voltage DC to constant current DC. AC constant current drivers on the other hand can occasionally achieve 90% efficiency (85-88% is common) in one step 120v AC constant voltage -> DC constant current and they are cheap. Another problem with 12v is that you are limited to very short strings otherwise you need to step the voltage up which a less efficient process than stepping down.
Messing around with LEDs is addictive you might end with stuff like this in your kitchen.
Any particular reason you are going with 12v? In my experience, surprisingly the conversion from 120v AC down to 12v DC is rarely better than 75% efficient and then there are more losses going from constant voltage DC to constant current DC. AC constant current drivers on the other hand can occasionally achieve 90% efficiency (85-88% is common) in one step 120v AC constant voltage -> DC constant current and they are cheap. Another problem with 12v is that you are limited to very short strings otherwise you need to step the voltage up which a less efficient process than stepping down.
Messing around with LEDs is addictive you might end with stuff like this in your kitchen.
MrFlux
Well-Known Member
What vero size are you thinking about?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Yes! Please do, that would be f'in awesome. Any designs out there for multiple bulbs?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Mainly price, which is free, because I have the power supply.
When I put everything together, a meanwell PLP series power supply was $19 + $7 for each LDD and I could run at least 4 with this supply.
The only AC driver that was in my price range was the LPN-60's? and @$20 apiece I would need one for each Vero [13] and that wasn't very cost effective.
So efficiency may be lost, but the diodes are far more efficient that LED bulbs. I am definitely open to suggestions!!!!!
And.....I barely have the equipment to mount up 2 to 3 of these vero's on 12" of heatsinkusa stock, let alone 50 separate LEDS. Soldering up all those diodes for me personally, made me pause on using 3 and 5w stars.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Vero 13's @ 1 A. @$9 they will put out over 3000 lumens @ 100l/w
MrFlux
Well-Known Member
My suggestion: A smaller Vero 10 needs 350 mA and can use a cheap driver for 1W LEDs. For example with this one you string together four Vero 10's. This would be a lot more efficient then going from 110 to 12 to 27V. For heatsinking you could then use simple alumium profile from the hardware store, this would already be a lot better than how LED bulbs are cooled.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
I found this hoodie, this afternoon. Work in progress now. Hopefully done this evening.
Attachments
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
I will have to take a look at the 10's, in all honesty I have brushed over them. But the 27v is at the forward test @500ma, I would actually be running them @2x that, which will rise the voltage up to about 31.7+v, according to the datasheet, anyways.
I have used the aluminum and have wavered on it. I am cheap, but I still would like a setup that can be left for a while, with no thinking on my part, while gone, hopefully. So the bigger heatsinks and fans give me peace of mind. 4" sink @HSUSA is like $1.09 an inch and I have tens of fans to use. The aluminum seems to be hit and miss and I have looked into it, up and down, for a while, [aka Steve's LED's] even thought about running the channel......The meanwell's LDD's are $7, so they are cheap as shit. Electrical efficiency sometimes is overcome by practical efficiency, in the case of 13's, even with my terrible soldering, I could slap bar after bar together, some in 5 minutes.
I thought I had put a lot of thought into it lmao, other than electrical efficiency. But I must admit, I am very green in that area, but learning and still contemplating what your are saying! No doubt, Mr. Flux! Thanks for bringing up your take, fuck yeah!
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Well its probably on hold, I am simply tired of fawkin' around with what I want. Rats on the step downs, that went over my head weeks ago, but I didn't even look, mainly because they input up to 51v's, but I can see a problem with 12v's and 30 volts in a step down circuit.
I think I am going to bone up on building pcb drivers. I want something flexible, but repeatable. My electronics is limited and ever growing, but its seems entirely possible to build DIY drivers with the right parts and knowledge of theory [which mine again.... sucks ass.....] [Step-ups, fly-backs?]
I like the aluminum idea, Home Depot, has it dirt cheap, its just that with lack of experience and the reading that is out there, doesn't lead to confidence down that path.
I might go back to the Bridgelux RS chips. I can run two of them in a series on one LPC-80 or whatever the closest incarnation to 100watts is, with that driver line-up. Little more expensive, but still 125watts/lumen, won't have to overdrive them, but they can still handle a bit....
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
I tested these drivers at 88%. The vF range is ~25-50 so max dissipation is ~30w @ .62A. I havent tested the 1A version but it has similar components. There are lots of .3A - .35A drivers in the 75-80% range and they are very cheap $2-3 each.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
^-^ Here is some reading I came across today
Simplify, simplify: TIs AC LED driver eliminates magnetics
Simplify, simplify: TIs AC LED driver eliminates magnetics
![cabdaytwo[reflector].JPG](/data/attachments/2029/2029293-ca833fab715661ed32c98b32451fde7a.jpg?hash=yoM_q3FWYe)
