Using a multimeter to testing HID light circuits

Got these ballasts:

http://www.ballastkit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=673_679_778&products_id=899
http://www.ballastkit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=673_680_786&products_id=1155

Wiring diagram: The HPS uses the capacitor (the MH is the same, but no ignitor)
http://www.ballastkit.com/media/data/wiring1.pdf

I got them running. But don't really know shit about their operation. I wanted to test the circuits with this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html

Can anyone tell me what specs I should test on which components or where in the circuit?
The voltage leaving the capacitor?
The capacitance (it looks like I might need special leads that weren't included w/ multimeter to fit into those rectangular slot- don't know what to search for though) of the capacitor?
Can someone tell me how to safely discharge the capacitor?

Also, like I said, I can get the lights up and running. But I didn't do anything with the green ground wire on the power cord. What should I do to ground the circuit when I get it permanently installed

if it's working why would you need to test it? You should have a 3 prong plug.3 wires- Hot, Neutral, Ground. The ground gets grounded to the frame you have your ballast components mounted to. Your receptacle should be 3 prong. the receptacles grounded. that's what makes the ground to the house. You can use your multimeter to discharge the capacitor.

Ok thanks. That solves the ground. Honestly, I just want a little practice with the multimeter. Also, the capacitor on the HPS is slightly dented. I wanted to see if it is still operating within spec.

I'd recommend getting an electrician to do your wiring if you don't feel competent. your lack of knowing what to do may result in a fire. I am no certified electrician but I know my way around electrics and when you are playing with AC mains it's not something you want to make a mistake with.

Seems like you are wiring some sort of ballast, if you are doing so and any external parts are metal, you MUST have the metal objects earthed so that any problem in the wiring can be routed to the ground which should then blow the fuse. Also make sure you have the correct rated fuse so that the fuse pops when the light draws too much current if something has shorted.

tjln899em said:

Ok thanks. That solves the ground. Honestly, I just want a little practice with the multimeter. Also, the capacitor on the HPS is slightly dented. I wanted to see if it is still operating within spec.

Click to expand...

I see where your coming from. you capacitor wouldn't fire your bulb if it was broken. Sometimes those capicators get a little banged up. I started off with a kit like you. Put a timer on it. you shouldn't have any problems.
I also had a GFCI I plugged mine into. The GFCI is alot quicker breaker than your house's breakers.