URDWC what size pump?

Discussion in 'Hydroponics / Aeroponics' started by macsnax, Feb 27, 2018.

  1.  
    kingtitan

    kingtitan Well-Known Member

    Now I think about it maybe should have done 3" between the totes and then ran 1.5 for the 10ft run to my res in my furnace room concrete. right now my only concern seems to be the roots traveling at the return and then into the adapter from 1.5" to 3/4". Maybe a project I could do in the summer is to try to drill those out somehow...maybe clamp a piece of wood so there is somewhere for the mandrel to drill.
     
  2.  
    kingtitan

    kingtitan Well-Known Member

    Yeah I had to buy some tools, most were cheap the most expensive was the 6" hole saw lol. But yeah, I bought extra totes just in case I messed up. I got the 12 gallon strong boxes on clearance for very cheap $2-$3 so if I needed to replace im kinda screwed.
     
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  3.  
    Cold$moke

    Cold$moke Well-Known Member

    Next time buy an adjustable hole saw

    Cuts plastic much cleaner

    And you can size it for damn near any size net pot :)
     
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  4.  
    JSB99

    JSB99 Well-Known Member

    I know it's a little after the fact, but the easiest way to do this, and by far the cheapest, is to use a jigsaw with a steel blade. It's so easy to cut your big holes this way.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2018
    Cold$moke likes this.
  5.  
    Cold$moke

    Cold$moke Well-Known Member

    You need to try the adjustable

    I use a jigsaw before too, but i have found nothing cleaner cutting then the adjustable for plastics

    Since its a blade like a knife it doesnt.make burrs or plastic saw dust that takes a year to get completely out of every thing :)


    Saws tend to grab soft plastic and tear or crack more so then the knife blade action

    Run hole saws in reverse for plastics to start your cut then switch to forward for best results in my experience:)
     
    JSB99 likes this.
  6.  
    JSB99

    JSB99 Well-Known Member

    Exactly!
     
    Cold$moke likes this.
  7.  
    kingtitan

    kingtitan Well-Known Member

    I found running in reverse high speed and just weight of the drill made it hot and just mostly melted through, no burrs. Took a few holes at first to figure this out.
     
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  8.  
    JSB99

    JSB99 Well-Known Member

    On 2" holes and below, I use standard hole saw bits. If the blades are sharp, I run it forward, lightly, and slowly. It'll cut a beautiful hole, with barely anything to clean up around the edges. But this takes some practice, and courage, because we all know how easy it is to rip or chip that thin plastic. If I think the plastic is too delicate, or my bit isn't as sharp as I'd like, then I'll run it in reverse, and clean up the edges with my dremmel, and a sanding bit.

    On anything larger, I drill a pilot hole for the jigsaw blade, then just cut the hole. It's so easy, and the plastic cuts like butter. But, you have to use the right blade. Use "metal" blades. Anything else, and you risk grabbing and tearing the plastic.

    I had to expand my 2" holes when I got my bulkheads. I used nothing but a jigsaw and a piece of sandpaper, to smooth the edge.
    20171226_145506-1632x1224.jpg 20171226_170119-1632x1224.jpg 20171226_170127-1632x1224.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2018
  9.  
    Cold$moke

    Cold$moke Well-Known Member

    I cheated, and made a bucket drilling fixture jig lol

    Made all holes in the same location within a 1/16th
     
    JSB99 likes this.

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