Too much phosphorus?
- Thread starter KBRA7
- Start date
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Looks like you got yourself a purple strain going on there.
Got some yellowing happening too so maybe a little more N and some Epsom salts to fix any magnesium issues. The extra sulfur from the epsom helps to get more resin too.
I'm pretty sure those plants are wired to go purple in flower. Cool nighttime temps can bring it on stronger too.
Got some yellowing happening too so maybe a little more N and some Epsom salts to fix any magnesium issues. The extra sulfur from the epsom helps to get more resin too.
I'm pretty sure those plants are wired to go purple in flower. Cool nighttime temps can bring it on stronger too.
Thanks for the input
I have 2 plants of the same strain in that box, they both get same nutes. And the other is green without any signs of purpleing.Forgot to mention - I accidentally put too much epsom salts when they had a really bad magnesium deficiency... Actually, when I think more about it, all of my problems started after too much Mg. I flushed everything twice but problems still occurs: calcium deficiency (or lockout) is the worst one happening right now. Also I was getting dark spots (phosphorus deficiency) so I increased bloom nutes, and then purpleing started to happen. Lots of yellowing at the bottom leaves. pH were always in a good range. My plants were doing great until Mg incident, and now blooming is slow ...
Do you guys have any suggestions how should I complete this grow? Increase/decrease nutes, give more/less calmag? Or should I stick to usual portions of nutrients + calmag until flush? As I already gave them a proper flush twice after too much Mg. About 3 weeks left until harvest.
Btw, OldMedUser, thanks for advice. I should definitely increase N because I only gave them ~0.5ml/l of Biobizz grow couple past watterings.
Last edited:
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
What are you growing in?Thanks for the input
Forgot to mention - I accidentally put too much epsom salts when they had a really bad magnesium deficiency... Actually, when I think more about it, all of my problems started after too much Mg. I flushed everything twice but problems still occurs: calcium deficiency (or lockout) is the worst one happening right now. Also I was getting dark spots (phosphorus deficiency) so I increased bloom nutes, and then purpleing started to happen. Lots of yellowing at the bottom leaves. pH were always in a good range. My plants were doing great until Mg incident, and now blooming is slow ...
Do you guys have any suggestions how should I complete this grow? Increase/decrease nutes, give more/less calmag? About 3 weeks left until harvest.
Btw, OldMedUser, thanks for advice. I should definitely increase N because I only gave them ~0.5ml/l of Biobizz grow couple past watterings.
Your 3 weeks away from finish and your plants are just showing their true colors, there is no problem.
Adding N this late won't really help, and your plants don't need it now.
Next grow I would only use Calmag (once a month) and forget the salts, seeing as Calmag adds what you need plus N.
I would water only now or lite nutes if in soil until finish, but in hydro bring your nutes down to 1400 ppm.
Plants look good.
Nice job
Dieseltech
Well-Known Member
temps?
ThanksWhat are you growing in?
Your 3 weeks away from finish and your plants are just showing their true colors, there is no problem.
Adding N this late won't really help, and your plants don't need it now.
Next grow I would only use Calmag (once a month) and forget the salts, seeing as Calmag adds what you need plus N.
I would water only now or lite nutes if in soil until finish, but in hydro bring your nutes down to 1400 ppm.
Plants look good.
Nice job
I'm growing in Biobizz lighmix. It's possible that my both TDS meters are broken, but I have never fed them more than 700PPM and that's including water at 200PPM + 3.5ml/l biobizz bloom + 1ml/l biobizz grow + 2ml/l CalMag + ph down + some amino, fulvic and humic acids...
Does anyone also uses Biobizz products and could tell me if PPM should be higher?
I made an experiment yesterday and put 4ml/l (full blooming portion) in 200PPM water and PPM raised only up to 350-400... To get to 1400PPM I should probably put 8-10 times the recommended ammount
Temps in 68-79F range (20-26C).
Dieseltech
Well-Known Member
Thanks
It's possible that my both TDS meters are broken, but I have never fed them more than 700PPM and that's including water at 200PPM + 3.5ml/l biobizz bloom + 1ml/l biobizz grow + 2ml/l CalMag + ph down + some amino, fulvic and humic acids...
Does anyone also uses Biobizz products and could tell me if PPM should be higher?
I made an experiment yesterday and put 4ml/l (full blooming portion) in 200PPM water and PPM raised only up to 350-400... To get to 1400PPM I should probably put 8-10 times the recommended ammount
Temps in 68-79F range (20-26C).
You b fine just let her run out
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
That's perfect in soil, good job.
Next grow at 4 to 5 weeks, bump it up to 1000 for 2 watering's, and then go back to 700 until finish.
That will give your bud formation a boost.
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
In soil I wouldn't recommend feeding a plant at 1400, more like1000 max, and then only once a week, assuming you water 3 times a week.I made an experiment yesterday and put 4ml/l (full blooming portion) in 200PPM water and PPM raised only up to 350-400... To get to 1400PPM I should probably put 8-10 times the recommended ammount
Recommended amounts are exactly that, recommended.
Growing pot is a different story, that's why you use meters, too bring your nutes up to your level, not some assumption of where they should be.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
That Biobizz is an organic nutrient isn't it? If so ppm pens don't register organics accurately as they are made to read salt levels in water. Organics need to be fed upon by bacteria and fungi in the soil to be converted into salts that the plants eat. Hydro nutes like I use are like sugar to the plants. No digestion needed and the plants take it up right away. Could be you need a good dose of myco to boost bacterial action in the soil to release nutrients for the plants.Thanks
It's possible that my both TDS meters are broken, but I have never fed them more than 700PPM and that's including water at 200PPM + 3.5ml/l biobizz bloom + 1ml/l biobizz grow + 2ml/l CalMag + ph down + some amino, fulvic and humic acids...
Does anyone also uses Biobizz products and could tell me if PPM should be higher?
I made an experiment yesterday and put 4ml/l (full blooming portion) in 200PPM water and PPM raised only up to 350-400... To get to 1400PPM I should probably put 8-10 times the recommended ammount
Temps in 68-79F range (20-26C).
I decided to experiment recently with organics using commercial composted sheep and steer manures and some earth worm castings blended with ProMix HP which has no nutes in it. I added some Myco I bought at a local garden center. Stuck the plants in 2L pots of it and they took over a week to dry enough for another watering. Mixed up 2L of RO water with a heaping Tbsp of unsulfured blackstrap molasses to feed the myco and 2 Tbsp liquid seaweed fertilizer. Two days later the leaves started burning. I should have flushed right away but figured they would get used to it. They didn't and it got ugly but they were growing well otherwise. Three days ago I repotted into 8L pots using mostly ProMix with the last of the organic blend and watered them in with a low dose of my 3-part hydro nutes. Doing much better now with the new growth healthy and not burning.
A buddy that does all organics no-till growing figures that when they got the molasses it kicked the myco into high gear and that's what caused the burning. I'm not much of a dirt farmer and have mostly done DWC or soilless the last 18 years using hydro nutes. If you read up about the various super soils etc that a lot of growers use they mix it all up, make it moist and let it 'cook' for a month or more. The cooking is to give the myco time to convert the various organics into nutrients the plants can use. Stuff like Fox Farms soil comes pre-cooked and is hot right out of the bag and can burn young plants on it's own.
You should get some calibration sol'n to check your ppm pens. I have a Hanna ppm pen I bought in '82 and it still works but needs calibrating more often but doesn't get too far out.
Wouldn't hurt to get a water analysis report from your supplier either. Could be stuff in there that can screw up your balance in the soil and the minerals in the tap water build up in the soil over time that can make it worse. You may find it on your town's website but a call to the office will usually get you a detailed report by email and it should be free. If they ask just say you want to get into rearing fish or brewing beer or even for health issues. None of their damn business but people are nosy.
crimsonecho
Well-Known Member
Its ok. Just up the dosage of grow a bit. The colours are genetic but it looks a bit light coloured and it probably has a little while to go.Thanks
It's possible that my both TDS meters are broken, but I have never fed them more than 700PPM and that's including water at 200PPM + 3.5ml/l biobizz bloom + 1ml/l biobizz grow + 2ml/l CalMag + ph down + some amino, fulvic and humic acids...
Does anyone also uses Biobizz products and could tell me if PPM should be higher?
I made an experiment yesterday and put 4ml/l (full blooming portion) in 200PPM water and PPM raised only up to 350-400... To get to 1400PPM I should probably put 8-10 times the recommended ammount
Temps in 68-79F range (20-26C).
As for biobizz and organics, organic nutes and tds meter doesn’t make sense. Some of the shit is readily available in the biobizz and some are not. Tds meters use a conversion factor to estimate the tds based upon the conductivity of the solution. In organics it doesn’t work.
Just stick with the feeding schedule biobizz provides. Its an ok schedule. Not every plant is same so when i used biobizz i started with 1/2 and watch the response. Its hard to overdose with them but possible.
Last edited:
xtsho
Well-Known Member
From my experience purple leaves like that are not a sign of a purple strain. I've grown many purple strains. Most had green leaves and purple flowers. Some do have purple in the leaves but not like the ones the OP posted a picture of.
This is a purple strain of mine. Purple flowers and green leaves.
This is a PCK showing purple in the leaves naturally not from a plant issue.
That plant looks like it's suffering from nutrient issues. Probably too much bloom nutes.
But what do I know.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I've never seen any nute issues make leaves go purple like that so figure it's just the strain. A different form of leaf variegation maybe. Instead of yellow it's showing purple?From my experience purple leaves like that are not a sign of a purple strain. I've grown many purple strains. Most had green leaves and purple flowers. Some do have purple in the leaves but not like the ones the OP posted a picture of.
This is a purple strain of mine. Purple flowers and green leaves.
This is a PCK showing purple in the leaves naturally not from a plant issue.
That plant looks like it's suffering from nutrient issues. Probably too much bloom nutes.
But what do I know.
But like you, what do I know.
