Too Close To An Electrical Fire!!!!!!!!!!!

basement nirvana · Apr 20, 2011

This electrical timer nearly went up in flames with a 1000W HPS on 110V. It occured 6 hours into the 12 hour cycle. Any ideas why? It is rated to 15Amps or 1750 watts and that was the only thing plugged into it. There are 2 lights and 2 timers on 2 seperate circuits so I check the heat of the plug of each at the end of the cycle the other day and this light still seemed hotter. Could it be a bad ballast? Scared to hook it up again.

Little Tommy · Apr 20, 2011

I have always had good luck with the Intermatic brand timers. I use the the ones rated for outdoor use for my lights though. Is you ballast magnetic or digital?

IAm5toned · Apr 20, 2011

basement nirvana said:
View attachment 1559985This electrical timer nearly went up in flames with a 1000W HPS on 110V. It occured 6 hours into the 12 hour cycle. Any ideas why? It is rated to 15Amps or 1750 watts and that was the only thing plugged into it. There are 2 lights and 2 timers on 2 seperate circuits so I check the heat of the plug of each at the end of the cycle the other day and this light still seemed hotter. Could it be a bad ballast? Scared to hook it up again.

its rated @ 1750 watts of resistive load current
your ballast is pulling an inductive load

theres a BIG difference between the two.... as you just found out.

and inductive loads over 600w need to be switched by a relay rated for such, or a lighting contactor.
this is a VERY common cause of growroom fires, improper electrical rating.

always consult a pro if in doubt

Spicy8305 · Apr 20, 2011

damn, I think that's the same timer I use...lol
It could be a variety of reasons including the fact that it's a cheap plastic timer or the contacts got welded or something.
Either way it had some sort of short, and I'd say it's trash. I actually run my timer with a surge protector between timer and light.

Auzzie07 · Apr 20, 2011

I'd look into the wiring of the circuit if I were you.

TheTokingKing · Apr 20, 2011

DUDE!

Dont use those timers. ONLY use the ones with "Heavy Duty" on them. My father has walls of electronics degrees. He helped me setup my 220v.

This option is a must when drawing 10amps. Dont risk fire cheaping out. I have an intermatic one that is much more beefier than that one, I paid 30.00 for it and its a 220v. Its a sturdy timer and it is my second intermatic "Heavy Duty" never time your lights with walmart timers. I had once get soft around the terminals, their not meant to handle the current.

IAm5toned · Apr 20, 2011

only recommends Tork Electromechanical Controls

its what professional guys with degrees spec for real world lighting control applications.

accept no substitutes!

basement nirvana · Apr 20, 2011

This burnt out timer does say HEAVY DUTY on it, but what does that mean really?

I'm worries it could be the ballast or electrical wiring in the house?????

basement nirvana · Apr 20, 2011

Oh, and it is a magnetic ballast, not digital.

easterbunny · Apr 21, 2011

i use the same timer for last 3 years only difference is i run clfs (Alot)
i run 1 extension cable from the timer
i run 2 power strips off the extension to supply seperate lights (instead of overloading 1 power strip with 3 way outlets)
so i have 14/ 42w cfls running at 18 or 12 havn't had this problem but have had concerns with this timer but hasn't failed me yet knock on wood
you need to upgrade thats why i wont switch from cfls your running alot of juice
power like that comes with the cosenqences

upgrade your ballast
by a rated power strip for that amount of power and try to catch the accident before the wall does
and good luck

p.S MY HOUSE HAS WHAT IS CALLED DIRTY POWER THIS MEANS IT SPIKES A POWER STRIP STRONG ENOUGH WILL DEFINIITLY HELP DONT GET DISCOURAGE JUST PLAY IT SAFE
LOOK FOR WAYS TO AID

IF YOUR BREAKERS AINT POPIN NO NEED FOR THE ELECTRICIAN TO COME A KNOCKING

basement nirvana · Apr 21, 2011

Cool thanks. An electrician checked that circuit before anything happened to that room so I assumed it was good. I got the gold standard of timers from hydro shop so I think I am good. You all helped me ease my mind while I am away. I hate being worried about my house and dog when I am not there.

trouble9039 · Apr 21, 2011

thats crazy because I had the same timer and same shit happened!

TheDude0007 · Apr 22, 2011

basement nirvana said:
View attachment 1559985This electrical timer nearly went up in flames with a 1000W HPS on 110V. It occured 6 hours into the 12 hour cycle. Any ideas why? It is rated to 15Amps or 1750 watts and that was the only thing plugged into it. There are 2 lights and 2 timers on 2 seperate circuits so I check the heat of the plug of each at the end of the cycle the other day and this light still seemed hotter. Could it be a bad ballast? Scared to hook it up again.

I have not read any other reply's but I am 100% sure I know why it happened. You should be using a relay switch with your light and timer. You see even though the timer can take the watts, the amperes your light pull is much higher than what a domestic timer can handle. So the timer overheated with all the amperes that went through it.

With a relay switch the very same timer you have switches the light on and off but the electricity does not flow through the timer, it goes via the relay and this is 100% safe. Any timer you buy, even if it is "heavy duty" wont gaurentee that this sort of thing does not happen.

The relay switch will gaurentee that you never have a problem, trust me. You only need it for your HPS, the other stuff is fine to plug directly into any household timer.

TheDude0007 · Apr 22, 2011

trouble9039 said:
thats crazy because I had the same timer and same shit happened!

Get a relay as per my above post, or not only will your house burn down. You will also go to jail when the fireman calls the cops on you. :-)

BigJon626 · Apr 22, 2011

scary shiz man glad everything is ok. is it better to have the timer in the wall or surge?

Corbat420 · Apr 22, 2011

IAm5toned said:
its rated @ 1750 watts of resistive load current
your ballast is pulling an inductive load

theres a BIG difference between the two.... as you just found out.

and inductive loads over 600w need to be switched by a relay rated for such, or a lighting contactor.
this is a VERY common cause of growroom fires, improper electrical rating.

always consult a pro if in doubt

this is what happened. this is EXACTLY what happened. when i seen that cheap home based timer i thought "OHM" bongsmilie

. you just experianced ohm's law my friend.

Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two points, and inversely proportional to the resistance between them.[1]
The mathematical equation that describes this relationship is:[2]

to break it down REALLY simply for you Volts / Resistance = amps. on an indistrial circuit a 1000W on 120 conversion draws 9.6~ starting amps and Draws 7.5~ running amps, its 1/2 that on 240 and even less on larger stage cables. the size of the outlet dictates the resistance of the voltage, making amperage. to many amps are bad, they produce to much heat + resistance for something like that to withstand.

get a timer like this http://store.poolcenter.com/interma...ferralID=b92f0970-6cef-11e0-a86a-001b2166c2c0 this is the exact timer that i use. 1 for every 1000W on 120 conversion. i've never had a problem.

Too Close To An Electrical Fire!!!!!!!!!!!

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