Tinfoil?

beginner420

beginner420

Well-Known Member
I'm almost done my 1st grow and I have 5 plants with about 400 actual watts of cfls and I have tinfoil on my walls for reflection. My temps get to about 90-95f with the doors shut so i leave them open with a fan blowing in and the temps stay around 80f and I close the door at night. I'm gonna be starting a second grow right after this ones done and am planning on having 2 plants DWC with 250-300 actual watts of cfl. I recently bought some Mylar and panda poly film I'm wondering will the Mylar make my grow area less hot than it would be with tinfoil? I was hoping to be able to keep the doors shut and make a panda poly film wall so light doesn't leak out when their shut, I might just buy a cheap ac unit any help or tips is appreciated
 
if i had a grow tent id probably grow in both, i just wanted to know if using mylar will keep the area cooler rather than using tinfoil
 
i don't think it's gonna help enough, you'll have less "hot spots" but overall the amount of energy(heat) going in is unchanged. you need better exhaust, maybe cut a 6" hole in the ceiling and put an exhaust fan in it.
 
greenage4202 said:
i don't think it's gonna help enough, you'll have less "hot spots" but overall the amount of energy(heat) going in is unchanged. you need better exhaust, maybe cut a 6" hole in the ceiling and put an exhaust fan in it.
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No offense but i disagree. Tin foil FOR ME created my temps to be above 90 and i was having alot of problems with the heat being SO high. I switched to emergency blankets ( and now reflectix from homedepot ) and when i switched from tinfoil to EMR blankets my temps dropped from then on out into the 80s. and it did nothing for reflection at all. I think it will maybe a difference.
 
Tin foil has little or no effect either with hot spots or causing heat issues when using cfl's. Nothing helps reflection with cfl's. They just are not strong enough lights. That's why you only have them a couple inches off the tops of the plants.
 
Commander Strax said:
you dont need a tent but you do need ventalition.
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Or AC for sure... All lights cause heat... Changing your walls to something other than 'Aluminum Foil' could help. 1/2 a degree... Aluminum foil reflects about 55% of light, not that much, so I've heard... I use Aluminum Foil, without any worries, or issues... It's not, I repeat NOT YOUR TIN FOIL causing your heat issues... Good Luck!
 
I hear ya mizz, but i think you were just absorbing light energy into the blanket. If you are trying to reflect light back into the grow, it will increase temps at your plants. He should be shooting for temps in the 70s if he can, else lower the wattage. Not only that, but without good ventilation it's just a matter of time till his buds give him humidity problems during lights off.
 
Definetly work on the ventilation system and the tin foil creates hot spots that burn your plantsnlike a magnifying glass. I've use the emergency blanket eh it'll do and hella cheap but i use panda film its good shit.
 
[FONT=&quot]
Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Elastomeric paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Lowe's Home Improvement: Buy Kitchen Cabinets, Paint, Appliances & Flooring[/FONT][FONT=&quot]

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don’t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter’s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.[/FONT]
 
You can even buy an emergency blanket and use that as a mylar, tin foil is metal and will conduct heat as well. I would stay away from it, and it's probably more expensive than the emergency blanket or mylar anyways.
 
hardknox72 said:
................... and the tin foil creates hot spots that burn your plantsnlike a magnifying glass.
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This is "Parroted" info, and complete BS... Aluminum Foil used with CFL's will not cause 'Hot Spots' I have a laser thermo and seriously have checked every square inch of my veg room... CFL's with tin foil... = no hot spots... So, don't worry about Tin Foil and Hot spots, if you are using CFL's.... I use Aluminum foil... it is not the best to use... but it is also not bad to use... unless you have a 1000 watt HID then I could see maybe some reflective issues, cause the HID gets hot... The CFL does not real get that hot...
 
Sand4x105 said:
This is "Parroted" info, and complete BS... Aluminum Foil used with CFL's will not cause 'Hot Spots' I have a laser thermo and seriously have checked every square inch of my veg room... CFL's with tin foil... = no hot spots... So, don't worry about Tin Foil and Hot spots, if you are using CFL's.... I use Aluminum foil... it is not the best to use... but it is also not bad to use... unless you have a 1000 watt HID then I could see maybe some reflective issues, cause the HID gets hot... The CFL does not real get that hot...
Click to expand...
...did you bother reading that article i posted above?

bozo
 
justanotherbozo said:
...did you bother reading that article i posted above?

bozo
Click to expand...
Ha... did you bother reading that the OP was using CFL's ? You posted an article... which I'll assume you have no personal information to post about 'tin/aluminum' foil...
So... the Parroted article tells us stuff the OP didn't care about... however, good info, if he runs or anyone runs a 1000+ watt HID ... And
Attaching this to walls is a pain
Click to expand...
I gotta laugh at whom ever wrote this... Applying Aluminum foil to a new [don't do it] wall with spray on contact cement took me around 10 minutes to do a whole room... then of course I read articles like yours and thought WTF why do so many peeps lie and make up shit, and re-post shit that is not true... So yes I read your article, look, tin foil is not the best for sure... but does it cause problems for a new grower with CFL's... the answer is no, speaking from experience here...no hot spots with a laser thermo... Lets hear from experience, and not some book/article writer, that well, has a issue with the Aluminum foil industry... lmao off at parroting articles.... It's cool for info.... but didn't pertain to what the OP wanted to know...
 
Sand4x105 said:
Ha... did you bother reading that the OP was using CFL's ? You posted an article... which I'll assume you have no personal information to post about 'tin/aluminum' foil...
So... the Parroted article tells us stuff the OP didn't care about... however, good info, if he runs or anyone runs a 1000+ watt HID ... And I gotta laugh at whom ever wrote this... Applying Aluminum foil to a new [don't do it] wall with spray on contact cement took me around 10 minutes to do a whole room... then of course I read articles like yours and thought WTF why do so many peeps lie and make up shit, and re-post shit that is not true... So yes I read your article, look, tin foil is not the best for sure... but does it cause problems for a new grower with CFL's... the answer is no, speaking from experience here...no hot spots with a laser thermo... Lets hear from experience, and not some book/article writer, that well, has a issue with the Aluminum foil industry... lmao off at parroting articles.... It's cool for info.... but didn't pertain to what the OP wanted to know...
Click to expand...



...lol, the reason the article was the only thing that got posted was because of that security 'captcha' bullshit, i'd typed out a response to go with the article but it was lost and fuck if i was gonna go through rewriting it so i just shared the pertinent information and trusted that anyone who wanted to know bad enough would actually take the time to read it.

...and hot spots isn't the only reason tinfoil, or aluminum foil, same thing, is shit as a reflective material.

[FONT=&amp]Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.


[/FONT]...if you read the whole article and you then actually think about it you'll see that the elastomeric is the best option for the long term because it has other advantages besides high reflectivity, ...which is WAY higher than foil.

...and all kidding aside, applying foil or mylar without wrinkles is a huge pain in the ass and keeping it clean is also a huge pain in the ass, no man, paint is the way to go and the elastomeric is the paint of choice because it is not only highly reflective it is also waterproof, mildew resistant AND cheap as hell, to me that is a winning combination.

...not to mention that, once applied, you're done, i've got 3 cabs all painted with elastomeric paint and all have been running now for years, no worries, just wipe it down and keep on keeping on, lol.

peace, bozo
 
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