Thinking about a permanent DIY panel for my 4x4 tent... input wanted!

I could make one hell of a dome/panel out of those 3 panels:bigjoint:. I don't know about you but I have no problem tearing into a $1000 panel or 3:mrgreen:
 
Using the Cree XM-L2 as an example since it is one of the best performers at higher drive currents. The 3000K XM-L2 T3 bin is about 30% efficient driven at 2A (~6.2 watts) assuming Tj of 50C (would likely be hotter in practice). That said, 600w HPS is in the range of 40% efficient with a new bulb and only cost $200 vs $1500 for an equivalent LED (400w) so it becomes a tough call.

Based on all that math I advise DIYers to run LED at 700mA unless the grow could not accommodate a 600 HPS anyway. At 700mA the XML-2 would be 39% efficient. I know you said you do not care about efficiency but I assume you do care about $$. But on the other hand, in practice it might just turn out great so to each their own :)
 
Using the Cree XM-L2 as an example since it is one of the best performers at higher drive currents. The 3000K XM-L2 T3 bin is about 30% efficient driven at 2A (~6.2 watts) assuming Tj of 50C (would likely be hotter in practice). That said, 600w HPS is in the range of 40% efficient with a new bulb and only cost $200 vs $1500 for an equivalent LED (400w) so it becomes a tough call.

Based on all that math I advise DIYers to run LED at 700mA unless the grow could not accommodate a 600 HPS anyway. At 700mA the XML-2 would be 39% efficient. I know you said you do not care about efficiency but I assume you do care about $$. But on the other hand, in practice it might just turn out great so to each their own :)

Awesome man, thanks for the input! I'm certain I can make a better spectrum with LED than I can get with HPS, so that's also really important to me.

I may have to reconsider the height I want to run at, and drop it significantly. That would allow for a lower current, and higher degree lenses. I'm worried about penetration however... First world problems... lol
 
I use wide angle LEDs with no lenses and of course at 700mA. So in my case I have to keep the modules in tight to the canopy ~6-8 inches ideally. The top 8 inches of the canopy will have the best nugs, on par with the big HPS nugs in terms of size and density. I normally just trim out the undergrowth and and try to maintain a somewhat flat canopy by bending and tying.

But for those who are looking to use more vertical space, you can have your cake and eat it by using LED side lighting (or lenses as you suggest). This allows you to pack a ton of watts into a small space and still keep canopy temps in a perfect range.
 
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