'tha skinny on curling leaves'?

Can some give me sum info on reasons for curling leaves???

1. 17 days
2. pH 5.5-6.2/TDS 480ppm(lucas formula)
3. RH 30-55%
4. temp 69F-78F/5 gallon res.65F-70F
5. watering timer-1hr. on 2hrs. off
6. 150watt 2300K HPS/supplemental 13watt LED 460nm.
7. timer-18hrs. on 6hrs. off

#1. Take pictures with normal lighting

there are many reasons for leaf curl. Not a huge fan of the Lucas formula so not sure what your ppms are actually comprised off.

But my relatively educated guess .. Magnesium defficiency. Curled leaves and I believe I see spots on the leaves Add more micro nutes. If you have green veins and yellowish swaths on the leaves.. Def micro defficient. Purple stems another huge indicator

FYI. My plants are 14 days old and I'm at 1100 ppm total. I was feeding 300 and they were totally stagnant and starving. They looked freaking horrible.

Bump up your nutes to 700 or so and I bet you'll see an improvement. Change out your Rez as well, your iron is likely gone if you haven't

I think its your grodan plug. IF you switched to bleached perlite/peat starters you wouldnt have the same water retension problem that faces a lot of grodan users. If you are using fertilizer I would suggest stopping or cutting back. You could also try buying an NFT timer (1min on / 5 min off). so your root base wont be constantly sprayed unless its a DWC than I would reccommend taking the water level down half an inch.

Over watering will cause the plants to droop. Your leaves are twisted. If you have the yellowing with green veins... More nutes

someone else could chime in

#1. Take pictures with normal lighting

there are many reasons for leaf curl. Not a huge fan of the Lucas formula so not sure what your ppms are actually comprised off.

But my relatively educated guess .. Magnesium defficiency. Curled leaves and I believe I see spots on the leaves Add more micro nutes. If you have green veins and yellowish swaths on the leaves.. Def micro defficient. Purple stems another huge indicator

FYI. My plants are 14 days old and I'm at 1100 ppm total. I was feeding 300 and they were totally stagnant and starving. They looked freaking horrible.

Bump up your nutes to 700 or so and I bet you'll see an improvement. Change out your Rez as well, your iron is likely gone if you haven't

Thanx for tha info
I am 480ppm trying to increase nutes for vegetative stage,10 ppm per day.
I decided to run the pump 24/7 looks better this morning. Thinking under h2Oing and lack of nutes. Well C!!!

I don't know if I would change to 24/7 watering as the plants were not draught stressed. You may want to jump 2-300 ppm right away. Perhaps you should foliar feed once a day with the lights off for a little faster results.

If you want to get better at diagnosing and fixing problems only change one thing at a time. That way you can learn what fixed the problem you were having. If you change two things you'll never know which was the cure.. More water or more nutes? I suffer from the same tendancy to change a little of eveything and found that all you end up with is more hypothesis on what works.

Hope this helps you out

[FONT=&quot]Solving Marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Plenty of first time and experienced marijuana growers will suffer at some point in their cannabis growing career marijuana plants that begin to show leaf damage.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Often they write emails or post on forums.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]or[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.[/FONT]

1. [FONT=&quot]Too much marijuana fertilizer[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
   A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. [/FONT]
2. [FONT=&quot]High Heat[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, grayish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf dessication or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.[/FONT]
3. [FONT=&quot]Too much light[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.[/FONT]
4. [FONT=&quot]Over Watering[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.[/FONT]
5. [FONT=&quot]Not Enough Water[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
   Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.[/FONT]

Unfortunatly it's my first plant and I've decided that Iam fuckin with it too much" kid with a new toy".
Gonna flush it tomorrow if it doesnt look any better,start from scratch.
Should have never done a single plant set up, multiple is the way to go.
Can some one tell me how fast a plant will respond,positively or negatively,to any of the parameters that I change?
I am assuming it takes longer for stressed out plants vs. Healthy ones to respond?
Not sure but the roots appear healthy(white, full, HAIRY, long?)

your pics are discolored and i can't see the actual coloring because of your lights