Tea Tree ~ Marijuana miracle?

Jimmy Luffnan

Well-Known Member
I was having a late night browse through the forum and noticed a thread about 'Powdery Mildew'
The solution seemed obvious to me, but after some search function I realized that my solution was virtually non existent...

My answer was Tea Tree oil.

The history of Tea Tree Oil.
http://www.thursdayplantation.com/page/Tea-Tree-Oil/

It's properties include anti-bacterial, antiviral, antifungal, anti-infectious, antiseptic, anti-parasitic, anti-inflammatory, immune-stimulant just to name a few...

It is very mild to use, but is very effective and strong on a biological level.

I and many others have used it for years in grow rooms to primarily kill and prevent mold and mildew, repel mites and insects and odor control.

Australia is very moldy most of the time. Lots of rain, lots of heat...and Drop Bears ;)

Aromatherapy is the easiest and most effective usage for indoor environments.

Unlike Sulfur burning methods, ventilation and lights can continue during the therapy and can continue right up until harvest.

There is little to no aroma difference on the buds after harvest. Most people discontinue Sulfur before flowering as to not effect the end aroma of their buds. Only in one occasion, I experimented with a very, very concentrated level which resulted in a light pine/camphor smell that remained after curing. Smoke wise was undetectable.

Though even in weak concentration, it has remarkable deodorizing properties. I reckon I could smell a MJ plant a mile away :) but the odor from a grow room diffused with Tea Tree oil, I wouldn't be able to pick even in full flower.

For people who have odor control issues in their homes, using this in the grow room + burning oil in your living area would definitely fool any visitors and also come with a bonus of all the great benefits it offers on a general aromatherapy level (Non MJ related)

Neem Oil seems to be the most popular natural product for PM and other pests, but after comparing to Tea Tree, you will probably end up just giving it to your girlfriend to use on her hair instead ;)

And it doesn't need to be sprayed directly onto the plant either unlike Neem Oil.
I have seen it used on outdoor crops, and it is extremely effective as a foliar spray in this application. Most people convert from Neem Oil after using Tea Tree.

And just some last food for thought, but this is simply an assumption and observation, not a scientific fact.

When you spray/add a product to your plant, it will most of the time stay with the plant till harvest, and eventually you will smoke it.
Thus the reason we don't use toxic chemicals on our grows, because they would eventually poison us right?
If Tea Tree diffused with aromatherapy from start to harvest was used, then it must be in the bud on some kind of biological level.
Tea Tree is used for respiratory infections and throat infections with great success.
Oddly, the people that smoke from these harvests never ever seem to get 'bong cough' or any other kind of respiratory infection since smoking 'Tea treated weed'

Maybe just a coincidental observation... *shrugs* But food for thought all the same...

Has anybody ever used Tea Tree oil?

What are your thoughts?

Cheers Jimmy.
 

Xub420

Active Member
we use it in the household. havent tried it on plants. been usin it for hygiene and baths for many years.
 

MYOB

Well-Known Member
I dont know if I would consider a companies webpage as a good source of objective information. Especially when it is concerning a product they sell.
 

Jimmy Luffnan

Well-Known Member
OK, you have my attention. I have a small problem with powdery mildew and occasional mite issues. Usually, I take care of mites with Mighty Wash and control the mildew with mostly ventilation but the Tea Tree Oil and it's "side" benefits. I visited the website, but it had no information on your usage for plants. Can you elaborate a bit on methods of application and dosages???
No unfortunately Tea Tree oil has never been used at a commercial level to deal with with plants and pest related disorders.
Im sure there have been studies done over the last nearly 100 years, but the website was just for mild history lesson on 'WTF is Tea Tree?!!'
I wanted to let people do their own research as opposed to a single bias viewpoint from one website ;)
I use (100% pure oil) in an oil burner, around about 2-3 drops per 1/4 gallon and it lasts for hours.
I usually have the strength to a point where you can just identify the smell, not be overpowered by it
Burn once per day, or constantly

I dont know if I would consider a companies webpage as a good source of objective information. Especially when it is concerning a product they sell.
I simply used this page as it was the original Tea Tree manufacturer. No other reason ;)

Tea Tree oil is amazing, I don't personally use it on my stuff because I dislike the smell but I've heard that it can be a great hope for the mildew! I use this stuff for alot of other things but this http://www.youngliving.com/thieves-essential-oil/Thieves-Oi is an all natural solution that you can buy and use if you so choose!
Thieves oil is very good, just as good I would think, but I dont think you want your crop smelling like garlic and cloves :)

Despite people using aromatherapy for many things these days, their uses usually get brushed off as fantasy/hippie in their effectiveness.
The 'natural' market for just about everything is repressed because if effective, you can simply make it yourself.
This is not good news for the chemical/pharmaceutical companies, or in our case, all of the 100's of companies selling foilar sprays and oils for controlling pests in our gardens.

Peppermint is also effective at repelling pests. Ive seen outdoor growers plant a few peppermint trees within their crop here and there and simply give them a 'rustle up' every now and then to keep the grasshoppers and other pests away. Works great!

Plants coexist with all other plants on this planet. Some are better at repelling disease and pests than others, so utilize the strength of one to help ;)
 

Jimmy Luffnan

Well-Known Member
Im surprised more people are not looking at this thread...?

I thought I might add just for a little more food for thought the actual process that is happening when you burn Tea Tree oil as opposed to other methods...

Water molecules/moisture floats through the air creating a humidity.
When spores float through the air, they join this water molecule, land on a surface and begin. This why we try and keep humidity low so there are less water molecules in the air, thus less for spores to grab onto right?

If you burn Tea Tree oil, the vapor floats up and clings to the water molecules in the air and the anti fungal etc. properties of the Tea Tree are now part of the water molecule floating about.

So when a mold spore floats it's way into your grow room, it will eventually attach itself to a water molecule. But little does it know that the water molecule is from hell!

The analogy would be the equivalent of Joe Dirt being thrown in a prison cell with a big, violent, rapey guy the size of The Rock *_*

It wont end well for the spore ;)

Just something to get the cogs in your head moving ;)

Cheers Jimmy
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I use tea tree oil for human purposes, but on plants? Hmmm

I spray H2O2 @ 3% (available at most drug stores, and large food stores with drug store isles)
 

Jimmy Luffnan

Well-Known Member
Has anybody been looking into this...? *shrugs*
Another little snippet ;)
http://www.ehow.com/info_8791441_tea-tree-oil-insecticide-plants.html

While foilar sprays are commonly used as a natural insecticide at a ratio of 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of water

My directions for use are:
Run an ionizer or diffuser of the oil constantly or for a period of time during the day at a ratio of 1 teaspoon of 100% pure tea tree oil to 1 cup of distilled water. Fans on lights on.

The one other thing I do which is like sulfur burning is right when a strain is starting to flower (week 2-3) about the same time the bud sites begin to open and you hit them with potash (or PK13-14), I turn of the HPS lights in the flowering room, remove the bulbs and cover the socket with a plastic bag or saran wrap.

I then put the diffuser directly in the area and mix a stronger ration of 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of distilled water and let it circulate throughout all the plants beginning to flower for about 1-2 hours.

This allows the diffused oil to penetrate right down into the bud sites (where the mold usually begins) and will protect the budsite internally for it's flowering cycle till harvest. Then the general running of the aromatherapy will protect all external flowers and plants thereafter.

The reason I remove the bulbs is because (or you can simply cover the entire bulb IF IT IS COLD!) is because diffusing in high concentration will put oil on the bulb = POP BANG!
In the lower normal dose I have seen no issues at all. There is not enough oil in the air to be a problem

No insects, no mold, not much plant odor any more...
And you can leave flowering humidity at 70-80% if you like, you still wont get bud rot ;)

Cheers Jimmy.
 

mickfanning

Active Member
Has anybody been looking into this...? *shrugs*
Another little snippet ;)
http://www.ehow.com/info_8791441_tea-tree-oil-insecticide-plants.html

While foilar sprays are commonly used as a natural insecticide at a ratio of 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of water

My directions for use are:
Run an ionizer or diffuser of the oil constantly or for a period of time during the day at a ratio of 1 teaspoon of 100% pure tea tree oil to 1 cup of distilled water. Fans on lights on.

The one other thing I do which is like sulfur burning is right when a strain is starting to flower (week 2-3) about the same time the bud sites begin to open and you hit them with potash (or PK13-14), I turn of the HPS lights in the flowering room, remove the bulbs and cover the socket with a plastic bag or saran wrap.

I then put the diffuser directly in the area and mix a stronger ration of 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of distilled water and let it circulate throughout all the plants beginning to flower for about 1-2 hours.

This allows the diffused oil to penetrate right down into the bud sites (where the mold usually begins) and will protect the budsite internally for it's flowering cycle till harvest. Then the general running of the aromatherapy will protect all external flowers and plants thereafter.

The reason I remove the bulbs is because (or you can simply cover the entire bulb IF IT IS COLD!) is because diffusing in high concentration will put oil on the bulb = POP BANG!
In the lower normal dose I have seen no issues at all. There is not enough oil in the air to be a problem

No insects, no mold, not much plant odor any more...
And you can leave flowering humidity at 70-80% if you like, you still wont get bud rot ;)

Cheers Jimmy.
If I use tea tree oil diffused inside the grow room throughout flowering, will it effect the buds' taste/smell? If so how late in flowering should I stop diffusing tea tree? Thanks!
 

Yuzuf Paradizo

New Member
Hi there Jimmy L
An older thread but I hope you read this. I've basically joined rollitup to respond..
Very interested to read about your use of Tea Tree Oil to prevent bud rot.
Are you able to recommend a diffuser please that handles the oil dilutions and timings you mention. I've had a look at the usual suppliers and the range is pretty bewildering and it would be awesome to know what works for you?
Also in your post does 'fans on lights on' mean you only run when lights on?
So hope you read this mate or if anyone else in the know could chip in..
Many thanks
YP
 
I was having a late night browse through the forum and noticed a thread about 'Powdery Mildew'
The solution seemed obvious to me, but after some search function I realized that my solution was virtually non existent...

My answer was Tea Tree oil.

The history of Tea Tree Oil.
http://www.thursdayplantation.com/page/Tea-Tree-Oil/

It's properties include anti-bacterial, antiviral, antifungal, anti-infectious, antiseptic, anti-parasitic, anti-inflammatory, immune-stimulant just to name a few...

It is very mild to use, but is very effective and strong on a biological level.

I and many others have used it for years in grow rooms to primarily kill and prevent mold and mildew, repel mites and insects and odor control.

Australia is very moldy most of the time. Lots of rain, lots of heat...and Drop Bears ;)

Aromatherapy is the easiest and most effective usage for indoor environments.

Unlike Sulfur burning methods, ventilation and lights can continue during the therapy and can continue right up until harvest.

There is little to no aroma difference on the buds after harvest. Most people discontinue Sulfur before flowering as to not effect the end aroma of their buds. Only in one occasion, I experimented with a very, very concentrated level which resulted in a light pine/camphor smell that remained after curing. Smoke wise was undetectable.

Though even in weak concentration, it has remarkable deodorizing properties. I reckon I could smell a MJ plant a mile away :) but the odor from a grow room diffused with Tea Tree oil, I wouldn't be able to pick even in full flower.

For people who have odor control issues in their homes, using this in the grow room + burning oil in your living area would definitely fool any visitors and also come with a bonus of all the great benefits it offers on a general aromatherapy level (Non MJ related)

Neem Oil seems to be the most popular natural product for PM and other pests, but after comparing to Tea Tree, you will probably end up just giving it to your girlfriend to use on her hair instead ;)

And it doesn't need to be sprayed directly onto the plant either unlike Neem Oil.
I have seen it used on outdoor crops, and it is extremely effective as a foliar spray in this application. Most people convert from Neem Oil after using Tea Tree.

And just some last food for thought, but this is simply an assumption and observation, not a scientific fact.

When you spray/add a product to your plant, it will most of the time stay with the plant till harvest, and eventually you will smoke it.
Thus the reason we don't use toxic chemicals on our grows, because they would eventually poison us right?
If Tea Tree diffused with aromatherapy from start to harvest was used, then it must be in the bud on some kind of biological level.
Tea Tree is used for respiratory infections and throat infections with great success.
Oddly, the people that smoke from these harvests never ever seem to get 'bong cough' or any other kind of respiratory infection since smoking 'Tea treated weed'

Maybe just a coincidental observation... *shrugs* But food for thought all the same...

Has anybody ever used Tea Tree oil?

What are your thoughts?

Cheers Jimmy.

Hi I have the start of white powdery mildew I think. Anyway I have the black saucers and elevators for my fabric pots. After watering plants I left the run off in the pots so its a white residue.. can I spray it with peroxide and kill it or tea tree oil or mix them with water? I was just gonna pour a bit of one or the other in to the saucers.
Also is leaving the run off in the saucer pots a bad thing.. I just figured it would evaporate. Anyway if anyone can help thanks.
A friend said use 60ml peroxide with 60 ml of water and mix with 1 gallon of water or 5 liters to spray everything down. Is this correct information and good for the plants ?
 

Attachments

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
Hi there Jimmy L
An older thread but I hope you read this. I've basically joined rollitup to respond..
Very interested to read about your use of Tea Tree Oil to prevent bud rot.
Are you able to recommend a diffuser please that handles the oil dilutions and timings you mention. I've had a look at the usual suppliers and the range is pretty bewildering and it would be awesome to know what works for you?
Also in your post does 'fans on lights on' mean you only run when lights on?
So hope you read this mate or if anyone else in the know could chip in..
Many thanks
YP
Jimmy hasn't been here since 2015:o
 

are you awake?

New Member
just curious if anyone has tried this.

ive been using a tea tree foliar spray to treat PM, and it definitely works. however i dont want to continue spraying them into flower so this aromatherapy method would be cool if it really works.

im currently giving it a go. scoured all over the net and cant seem to find any other threads about this topic. guess ill be the guinea pig. will report back.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
The biggest contributor to PM is lack of adequate air circulation. You can largely avoid PM by correcting your environment. Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide is safe to spray in early flower.
 

are you awake?

New Member
The biggest contributor to PM is lack of adequate air circulation. You can largely avoid PM by correcting your environment. Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide is safe to spray in early flower.
personally, i think the biggest contributor to PM is the strain. ive read many a reports of people who grew a couple strains side by side and only one strain got PM. also know locals who've got their humidity down to <17%, had lots of airflow, and still got PM.

the easiest solution then is to just grow a PM resistant strain, which is what i will do next cycle. i have a landrace that ive been growing here for years that has never gotten PM. but im looking for solutions for this current grow.
 
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