super lemon haze organic mix?

zakreed16

Member
should be getting my beans in a week or two and would like to go organic..any recommendations for a good mix for SLH? much appreciated!

:leaf:
 

zakreed16

Member
LC’s Soiless Mix #1
5 parts Canadian Spaghnam Peat or Coir or Pro-Moss
3 parts perlite
2 parts wormcastings or mushroom compost or home made compost
Powdered dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix.

Dry Ferts:
1 tablespoon blood meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
2 tablespoons bone meal per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
1-tablespoon kelp meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix or Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract as directed
1 tablespoon per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of Jersey Greensand to supplement the K (potasium) in the Kelp Meal and seaweed extract.

Mix all the dry ferts into the soiless mix well and wet it, but don't soak it with Liquid Karma and water @ 1 tbs./gal. Stir and mix it a few times a week for a week or two so the bacteria can get oxygen and break down the bone meal and make it available. And don't let the mix dry out, keep it moist and add water as needed. It'll also have time to get the humic acids in the Liquid Karma going and the dolomite lime will be better able to adjust the pH of a peat based mixture too.

will this be sufficient? this is my first organic grow and just want to get it right...
 

Jerry Garcia

Well-Known Member
Sounds pretty good, though I think Greensand takes a long time to break down and become available for the plant.

Here's my easy soil-less mix:
3 Parts BioBizz Light Mix
1 Part FoxFarm Light Warrior
A healthy amount of worm castings...up to 20% total soil volume
2 tablespoons high-N bat guano per gallon soil
1 tbsp mycorrhizae per gallon soil.
Perlite as desired...doesn't need much though.

Doesn't require any pre-mixing or soaking or anything...I just mix up a batch and transplant straight into it. I don't recommend rooting cuttings in it...I have done it successfully, but it takes much longer than rooting directly into Light Warrior.

For liquid fertilizer I use Blue Mountain Organic's Grow it Green, Flower Power and Super Plant Tonic, along with some cal-mag. Go easy with adding ferts though, especially through the first few weeks as the plant uses up what is in the soil.

I've got 1 SLH about a month old that is in this mix and it is doing great.

Whatever you decide on, organic is definitely the way to go.
 

zakreed16

Member
that sounds great, thanks for the quick reply..the mix i listed is suppose to be a water only mix all the way through flowering,although that just seems very questionable to me. what do you think?
 

MrBaker

Well-Known Member
If you plan on doin' this for a while

50 gal promix / peat based stuff
30 lbs worm castings
4 cups blood/bone/kelp meal, dolomite, greensand
2 cups epsom salts
x perlite

The soiless mix that you posted will work. What I just posted is really the same thing, just scaled up. Greensand dooes break down slow, but the kelp meal breaks down faster. I like to cook this mix for a couple weeks before I use it. The cooking period seems to make it more consistent. With this formula, you can do water-only for 2-3 months depending on what/how fast the plant eats.

As far as liquid ferts, I like the Miracle Grow Organic 8-0-0 stuff made from sugar beats. Plants seems to like it, and it's hard to OD with it. Alaska makes 0-10-10 fish emulsion that doesn't really stink. That's a pretty popular product. Other than those and the Espoma Bio-tone (bacterial and fungal) liquid, the plants get worm casting tea.

It all depends on how complicated you want to make it. Some people make bins of mixes, or have a recipe of liquid stuff in bottles. Some people just buy some Miracle Grow Organic peat-based mix, add dolomite (lime) to it and use some easy liquids for fertilizer (like the 8-0-0 and 0-10-10 I mentioned).
 

zakreed16

Member
thanks man..do you just wait until your girls start showing a nutrient deficiency then start adding liquid ferts?..i know all strains are diff and all call for diff amounts of nutes, but what do you usually go by? sorry if thats a stupid question
 

MrBaker

Well-Known Member
thanks man..do you just wait until your girls start showing a nutrient deficiency then start adding liquid ferts?..i know all strains are diff and all call for diff amounts of nutes, but what do you usually go by? sorry if thats a stupid question
Watch the plants for deficiencies and after a while you'll get a feel for the plants. IMO, because of the feeding schedule of some of the simple liquid ferts (every other week/watering) it's not like adding an extra kick before you see a deficiency is bad. Eg. Lets say you veg the plants for 2 months with just water and they are green and healthy. Then you decide you want to flower, so you switch the light cycle and want to add a bloom nutrient/additive. That's fine with caution and moderation. Adding some extra P,K (along with 12/12 light cycle or similar) should get the plant to go into flower production. Even if the growing medium sill has P and K then the addition of 0-10-10 every other week shouldn't be detrimental, especially if used at conservative concentrations.

I should note that N seems to deplete after 2-3 months, but no data is available about P,K right now. I usually just play it safe and conservatively add 0-10-10 / 2-4-1 during bloom, and treat N deficiency as needed. Ideally, water 1 week is bloom fert. Week 2 could be N fert, Week 3 see wtf happens.

Go by any change in leaf color or shape.
 
Top