Soil

What should I put in my promix for my new starts

Plants if you ask me

Well Beans would be a Great start, But before that..depending on the "Promix" I tend to scoop about a fist(cup) worth of the main Soil Mix out and replace with Seedling Compost, and a dab of Mycorrhizal Fungi Granules. I also tend to Water in(2-3L of Water, depending on Pot size, I use 10L > 18L) 24hrs before using and stick Pot in My Grow Cupboard to Warm up..

atb

Happy Growing!!

mikeman46016 said:

What should I put in my promix for my new starts

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The only thing you add to pro mix is perlite. I cut mine 50/50. My pro mix is a PH of 5.7-5.8. That's to low so I've added hardwood ash to raise the PH to 6.5 and fed at 6.5. Great results. Then I got tired of mixing in the ash and started feeding at 6.8. Same results as with the hardwood ash. So I don't do it anymore. But other than adjusting PH or adding drainage. The object is to add nothing but your plants. Then you feed as needed. This way you know what and when you put things in. Keep notes and learn from your mistakes. I'd advise you buying a book Mel Frank has a good beginner book. And do research on here. You can save time by thinking ahead. It will also serve you well when you have a problem. Then you'll be able to find the answers to most questions. A good chunk of all posts shouldn't even be posted because the answer is so easy to find.

Some vermicompost wont hurt but you can just leave it as is.

Is it straight promix or one of the iterations?

If its HP.you dont need perlite but castings is good like 20-30# to a bale. Also adding minerals is a huge plus in my experience..6 parts calcium carbonate, 5 parts soft rock phosphate and 3 parts gypsum all together measuring about 2 cups is all that is needed. Cook it for a month.

Adding mycorhizza might be useful when you put tbe plants in but should be applied directly to roots.

testiclees said:

Is it straight promix or one of the iterations?

If its HP.you dont need perlite but castings is good like 20-30# to a bale. Also adding minerals is a huge plus in my experience..6 parts calcium carbonate, 5 parts soft rock phosphate and 3 parts gypsum all together measuring about 2 cups is all that is needed. Cook it for a month.

Adding mycorhizza might be useful when you put tbe plants in but should be applied directly to roots.

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You can buy it with mycorrhizae already in it.

Everything else you've referred to is a whole other animal. At that rate you're in to organics or super soil. There are many variations but if someone's asking what to put in soil. I wouldn't recommend putting anything in. Because I'd expect they are beginning. If they are adding all this to the soil before using it. WHEN they have a problem and they will. You've got a bigger problem. What to add? You can't remove anything you've placed in the soil. Then you've got to consider what you add how it reacts with the "super soil". Start slow and keep it simple is my recommendation.

Buying it with mycorhizza mixed in is marginally worthwhile. Mycorhizza need to be in contact with roots for good effect.

What I described is nothing like a super soil. The castings are a good gardening basic. Adding this type of amendment to peat and perlite is a proven effective growing media. The minerals are also fairly basic and represent components that provide trace and slow release nutrients, encourage healthy soil biology and buffer pH. It's also fairly cheap and can be recycled.

I'd consider this approach far simpler than super soil or a series of advanced products and bloom bombs. It also avoids issues with hot soils and bagged soils of poor quality.

What are you trying to DO with the soil?
Is it simply a media for synthetic nutrition?
Do you want to do a no nutrient SS?

It matters alot

OK thank you guys very helpful