Simple organic soil?

ganga gurl420

ganga gurl420

Well-Known Member
GuerillaGOAT said:
40 plants will one bag of each work and tea as in tea bags you broil!? The actual juice from it?

Epsoma garden tone- 36lb 3-4-4?
happy frog bulb food-the 4lb bag3-8-8?
teas- what kind of tea?

Lol think it’s the mixing ratios I’m confused on and the tea type.
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Yes on the bags of nutes.
Teas are not bagged teas like Lipton we drink. Teas refer to compost tea. Made of things such as quano, worm castings, molasses etc.
Teas are both for nutrients and to feed the bacteria in the soil.
Read in the organic section the part about beneficial bacteria and fungus and why you should get to know them.
 
GuerillaGOAT

GuerillaGOAT

Well-Known Member
ganga gurl420 said:
Yes on the bags of nutes.
Teas are not bagged teas like Lipton we drink. Teas refer to compost tea. Made of things such as quano, worm castings, molasses etc.
Teas are both for nutrients and to feed the bacteria in the soil.
Read in the organic section the part about beneficial bacteria and fungus and why you should get to know them.
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Lol I was about fire up a tea kettle!!!! Thanks I will check it out so everybody’s “tea” may differ got it
 
Go go n chill

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
You can customize your soil amendments for what you have on hand or what is in local supply. You don't have to use bat guano but do need to provide these inputs in your mix however you do it:
Base soil
Compost
NPK inputs
Macronutrient inputs
Mineral inputs
Aeration/drainage/soil conditioners

The idea is a diverse supply of things in small quantities that break down over time eliminating the need for soluble nutrients. There are alternatives to almost every input and you don't have to add everything all at once. Keep it simple.
You can get away with adding pretty much nothing extra if you are using a decent bagged soil mix to start out with and plan to give a soluble organic fertilizer like Neptunes harvest and maybe even compost teas. Compost is like the most important thing and worm castings are the best form; having a worm bin makes this a snap. Many times fresh EWC is all I need to add. Learn about recycling your soil and aquire what you need slowly over time.
You can even get away with simply pushing a Jobes organic spike into your final size bloom containers. They are made of potash, blood, and bone meal. Kelp is a nice amendment as it contains probiotics galore and can be added to teas. I would not do without it. You'll need to properly lime your soil at recycling so d-lime is essential; garden gypsum is another one I would not go without as the fungus thrives on it. Oyster shell flour helps buffer ph for better nutrient absorbtion. I use composted chicken manure (Charlie's brand) but there are many other choices. Fish bone meal is great source of phosphorus. Neem seed meal is good for deterring pests and is an NPK input as well. Granular mycorrhizae kicks ass too; gotta get some. Obviously perlite and coco help condition soil; I add more at every recycle.
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Man I love your posts, thanks for the no BS info
 
rotten chestnut

rotten chestnut

Member
Richard Drysift said:
You can customize your soil amendments for what you have on hand or what is in local supply. You don't have to use bat guano but do need to provide these inputs in your mix however you do it:
Base soil
Compost
NPK inputs
Macronutrient inputs
Mineral inputs
Aeration/drainage/soil conditioners

The idea is a diverse supply of things in small quantities that break down over time eliminating the need for soluble nutrients. There are alternatives to almost every input and you don't have to add everything all at once. Keep it simple.
You can get away with adding pretty much nothing extra if you are using a decent bagged soil mix to start out with and plan to give a soluble organic fertilizer like Neptunes harvest and maybe even compost teas. Compost is like the most important thing and worm castings are the best form; having a worm bin makes this a snap. Many times fresh EWC is all I need to add. Learn about recycling your soil and aquire what you need slowly over time.
You can even get away with simply pushing a Jobes organic spike into your final size bloom containers. They are made of potash, blood, and bone meal. Kelp is a nice amendment as it contains probiotics galore and can be added to teas. I would not do without it. You'll need to properly lime your soil at recycling so d-lime is essential; garden gypsum is another one I would not go without as the fungus thrives on it. Oyster shell flour helps buffer ph for better nutrient absorbtion. I use composted chicken manure (Charlie's brand) but there are many other choices. Fish bone meal is great source of phosphorus. Neem seed meal is good for deterring pests and is an NPK input as well. Granular mycorrhizae kicks ass too; gotta get some. Obviously perlite and coco help condition soil; I add more at every recycle.
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Thank you for the info. I'm trying to make my own simple organic mix as well as I'm living in a country that doesn't provide any info about the contents of soils. All the soils here are only labelled with, "for tomato" "vegetables" "flowers" etc. so it's difficult to choose the right one. I had poor results with a generic soil mix + worm casting for my first grow. Would I be able to mix just compost, coir/peat, perlite, worm casting to carry me for an indoor grow of autos?
 
Go go n chill

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
rotten chestnut said:
Thank you for the info. I'm trying to make my own simple organic mix as well as I'm living in a country that doesn't provide any info about the contents of soils. All the soils here are only labelled with, "for tomato" "vegetables" "flowers" etc. so it's difficult to choose the right one. I had poor results with a generic soil mix + worm casting for my first grow. Would I be able to mix just compost, coir/peat, perlite, worm casting to carry me for an indoor grow of autos?
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You can’t buy online? I use Down To Earth Organics. It works for me and fairly inexpensive.
 
rotten chestnut

rotten chestnut

Member
Go go n chill said:
You can’t buy online? I use Down To Earth Organics. It works for me and fairly inexpensive.
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Unfortunately, none of the brands that are frequently mentioned on forums are available for purchase here. Online merchants that do ship to Korea charge a ridiculous amount for shipping.
I do have access to an organic soil mix made from worm casting here. Seems to be decent enough quality with minimal additives. The manufacturer does recommend adding an additional bag of worm casting for more nutrients for longer grows. Can I just add some extra worm casting and some compost for an autoflower grow? Or would that potentially made the soil too hot?
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
rotten chestnut said:
Unfortunately, none of the brands that are frequently mentioned on forums are available for purchase here. Online merchants that do ship to Korea charge a ridiculous amount for shipping.
I do have access to an organic soil mix made from worm casting here. Seems to be decent enough quality with minimal additives. The manufacturer does recommend adding an additional bag of worm casting for more nutrients for longer grows. Can I just add some extra worm casting and some compost for an autoflower grow? Or would that potentially made the soil too hot?
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I would rock whats there! Start a worm farm yourself if you can, too, (bacterial dom) as well as a leaf-compost (fungal dom). They can be mixed into one too once you get the hang of things.

Too hot? Hmm, depends on the compost and what's all in it.. types of manures used, presence of ammonium, bedding, meals and minerals..

Do you have a good idea of your ideal recipe? Something to work towards..
 
T

toomp

Well-Known Member
Yet To Be Named said:
With my first grow I’ve gone down the traditional soil and liquid nutes route. Just seemed easiest at the time but after harvest in a couple of weeks I’m planning a 4 plant grow (not a lot of space) of Lowryder 2 and would like to go organic and do away with the whole nutrient regime.

After extensive research on super soils, hot soils, bat guano, microbes and all manner of other shite (literally) I’m left confused and wondering if whether it’s all worth it after all! That and a lot of the stuff mentioned is fairly specialised. Bat Guano? Either we don’t have bats round here or they drop their load before they visit.

What I’m looking for is a simple 4 or 5 ingredient mix so I can ditch the nutes - dirt, composted manure, perlite, blood and bone - something like that. Maybe with seaweed added when watering.

Has anyone out there has success with a simple mix like that? If so what’s your secret! Quick tell me before I have to run out and scare some crap out of a passing bat.
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Promix, Perlite, Castings

Top dress castings as needed
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Super simple.
Yup.

Or better yet:

DIY Leaf mould (yes, can sub with Peat or coco) with DIY castings about 2 to 1, aerated to about 40% with pumice / biochar, amended with a couple meals (Kelp, Neem) and minerals (GRD/Basalt/Gypsum/ etc).

About as simple as it gets for high quality.
No need for blood and bone meal, really.


Of course, don't forget to add a bit of lime if using peat..
 
T

toomp

Well-Known Member
rotten chestnut said:
Unfortunately, none of the brands that are frequently mentioned on forums are available for purchase here. Online merchants that do ship to Korea charge a ridiculous amount for shipping.
I do have access to an organic soil mix made from worm casting here. Seems to be decent enough quality with minimal additives. The manufacturer does recommend adding an additional bag of worm casting for more nutrients for longer grows. Can I just add some extra worm casting and some compost for an autoflower grow? Or would that potentially made the soil too hot?
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Get the soil and find an organic 1-1-1 fertilizer will take your auto all the way through.

If more N is needed top dress with castings
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Miyagismokes said:
But can you sub in composted steer manure?
Less than ideal, certainly, but I have some storebought bags laying around.
I've just always been concerned that it just isn't composted enough.
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I would just compost it more then, maybe crack the bags, and run it thru a worm bin or 2 until its fine and more ideal to ones needs.

I don't go too big on animal composts anymore, but a small % in there should be np.. 5-15 maybe?

The main thing I focus on is the ratio of fungal compo to bacterial compo.. and keeping it in the 35-15% range- respectively... making it full spectrum while keeping salts and ammonium low. Then using premium aeration and high quality meals & minerals in ideal doses.
 
Miyagismokes

Miyagismokes

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
I would just compost it more then, maybe crack the bags, and run it thru a worm bin or 2 until its fine and more ideal to ones needs.

I don't go too big on animal composts anymore, but a small % in there should be np.. 5-15 maybe?

The main thing I focus on is the ratio of fungal compo to bacterial compo.. and keeping it in the 35-15% range- respectively... making it full spectrum while keeping salts and ammonium low. Then using premium aeration and high quality meals & minerals in ideal doses.
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The thing is, if I run it through a worm bin, it goes from the party of the list that contains Coco and peat and enters the castings zone... ( I don't have worms anyway, I'm interested in collecting local worms and haven't found epigeic worms yet... I might just break down and buy a pound, I'm wasting valuable castings making time)
There will be a day when I'll try your recipes to a T, but right now I'm trying to throw something together from what I have at hand.
I can wait until some of this harvest moves (once it starts, anyway), but I was hoping to be ready to fire an indoor once the drying room frees up.
I'm probably going to try it just for the experiment results, though.
 
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