Shipping Container 40x8x8

Hi RUI
I have been thinking of setting up a grow in a shipping container it will be fully insulted and have a roof so it helps with the heat of the sun. The idea is to use a Current Culture under current 16 XL 13 gallon module that was a gift that I receive. The recommended area to place the system is 5' x 28', current culture recommends to use 4 - 1000watts lighting but I will like to try a Vertical style for this setup. how many 1000watts bulbs could I use vertically 7 or 8? Also would like to have a small area so I could clone and have the mothers, if it's even possible ? The room would be sealed and will have a CO2. The main concern for me is controlling ambient temperatures with water cool air handler so I could use the same unit to cool the nuts reservoir and the dehumidifier. I got this idea years back of water cool grow rooms from a friend that no longer is with us Phil he was also here in RUI. If you could help size the equipment would be great. I want to be a longterm investment because the green rush it's just coming to my country in the next 1-2 years I'm in Central America.
Any help would be really great!
Bless

h.cordero said:

Hi RUI
I have been thinking of setting up a grow in a shipping container it will be fully insulted and have a roof so it helps with the heat of the sun. The idea is to use a Current Culture under current 16 XL 13 gallon module that was a gift that I receive. The recommended area to place the system is 5' x 28', current culture recommends to use 4 - 1000watts lighting but I will like to try a Vertical style for this setup. how many 1000watts bulbs could I use vertically 7 or 8? Also would like to have a small area so I could clone and have the mothers, if it's even possible ? The room would be sealed and will have a CO2. The main concern for me is controlling ambient temperatures with water cool air handler so I could use the same unit to cool the nuts reservoir and the dehumidifier. I got this idea years back of water cool grow rooms from a friend that no longer is with us Phil he was also here in RUI. If you could help size the equipment would be great. I want to be a longterm investment because the green rush it's just coming to my country in the next 1-2 years I'm in Central America.
Any help would be really great!
Bless

Click to expand...

ok i know ppl that have done this

1 what u are thinking for insulation is not going to be enough
A have it shaded
B paint the outside a solid white color (white reflects all colors waves less abortion of heat)
C insulate the inside with 1 inch foam board
D add in a 3 ton AC system to do heating and cooling ....possible 2 2ton mini splits
E add in a very strong dehumidifier (for the area u are and for C02 burners)

2 the first thing u need to do is dig a 1 to 1 and half foot pit the size of the container plus 2 feet.......then line the bottom with sand then the top(8 inches) with gravel....grade and lvl out .........this will help keep your container from rusting and allow u to make a drain hole in the container to allow water to come out ( if u are in area with a lot of water on the lowest corner in the pit put a 2 foot piece of piping in there with holes drilled into allowing water tho( 2 foot inner dia by like 1 foot taller then pit) ....u can use a sump pump and battery drain area out ) keep it from rusting

3 as for the water chillers and all that .......u are looking at a good bit of power u need to have a box put on to the container and get the wirting in before u insulate it ( i think u should over do it like 30 amp breakers with wire rated for 50 amps ) that way if u want u can upgrade but if not u know u are done over code so chance of fire is gone .........u also need to ground the box and place in surge protectors to protect from a lighting hit ......finally u need to have the wiring set up so u can use a strong genny to power it when the main power dies out

4 to add Co2 u will need burners .......to get the most out of it u should add a large pro pain tank and run in the a pipe or 2 to the container to supply the burner.......side note a genny now can run on pro pain so picking the right one getting a 250 lb tank put in u should be good refill every 4 to 6 months a 500 gallon 8 to 12 months

i will let u start with that and ask what comes up from it

Hi buddy that's for the help.
1 for insulation I was thinking of a diy spray foam insulation like this https://www.rollitup.org/t/shipping-container-40x8x8.915170/#post-12781466
think that a 3x2 inch frame would work would be enough. Also I have seen that some people use a pink stuff butt don't know how it called.
Before all that I need to think in my electrical need BUT even before that need to define how many bulbs and heat emitting( chiller for the reservoir, ballasts inside, CO2 burner, dehumidifier) objects would I need right for this specific layout of Rdwc
2 I have currently a shipping container rise in cement blocks would like to do the same for this setup also
3 the idea of a big propane tank inside of a sealed container doesn't look really good idea to me maybe I can hook the burner inside with some kind of hose and outside would be the propane tank don't know got my head think of lots of planning just before the insulation goes in.
Someone else many views but no responses ...
Thanks

You're on the right track. I haven't done one yet so I don't have a lot of general advice.

ttystikk said:

You're on the right track. I haven't done one yet so I don't have a lot of general advice.

Click to expand...

Thanks, lots of things to think, but MINIMAL how many bulbs would you run in a verte setup the full length of the buckets is 28' and the plant spacing is 30" keeping it simple nothing of double stack bulbs because of the height that's 8' help please

h.cordero said:

Thanks, lots of things to think, but MINIMAL how many bulbs would you run in a verte setup the full length of the buckets is 28' and the plant spacing is 30" keeping it simple nothing of double stack bulbs because of the height that's 8' help please

Click to expand...

You will need to double stack thouies to use the whole wall effectively. I'd say ten is about the minimum, I'd be looking for ways to cram 14 in there, as you've described it.

h.cordero said:

Hi buddy that's for the help.
1 for insulation I was thinking of a diy spray foam insulation like this https://www.rollitup.org/t/shipping-container-40x8x8.915170/#post-12781466
think that a 3x2 inch frame would work would be enough. Also I have seen that some people use a pink stuff butt don't know how it called.
Before all that I need to think in my electrical need BUT even before that need to define how many bulbs and heat emitting( chiller for the reservoir, ballasts inside, CO2 burner, dehumidifier) objects would I need right for this specific layout of Rdwc
2 I have currently a shipping container rise in cement blocks would like to do the same for this setup also
3 the idea of a big propane tank inside of a sealed container doesn't look really good idea to me maybe I can hook the burner inside with some kind of hose and outside would be the propane tank don't know got my head think of lots of planning just before the insulation goes in.
Someone else many views but no responses ...
Thanks

Click to expand...

1the foam will work but u have no way to have flush walls and u need some basic wood framing up to hold fans wires and to anchor your system to wall ....but still need outside white and under shade and the acs dehu

2 no not at all ....the blocks are worst the ground is still there with water not getting hit by the sun ......if u let the water drain out has no where to go except the ground and run off where ever (this is plant food waste)......the blocks over time can sink and shift ....wind/animals/bugs/mold fungi can get under it

the way i gave us is how to have a permit with drainage to keep the bugs and all that away from it ....u can set the compressors on cinder blocks

3 god no are u crazy .....the big tank is 50 yards away from the container or 10 or 15 or what ever u want ......to do this u are looking at 20 to 25 kwh power and for a genny u want it not running at full load all the time so u need a 50 kwh genny (cheapest way to power that if the power goes out is pro pain) to use a burner system to add Co2 u need a gas it is best to have it on a large supply instead of single tanks u refill every 3 weeks

hydro with out oxygen being added into the system the plants will start to drown after about 7 hours ....faster as the water temps heat up (u said central america ) the temps down there in a closed container is way to hot u got maybe 4 5 hours before the days heat builds up with the last of the heat from the bulbs bleeding off into air in container......that is going make plants suck more water losing more air wilting

with out a genny for power failures hydro is just crazy .......a battery back up for a small system is possible but that system u need a genny


as for what he said u need to have room for the ballast ...........so part of the section on the walls need to be clean getting hit with cool air (heat is enemy of electronics) ....if u try to get the ones that hang they are going to make heat with the light so increase the size of the AC by 6000 more btu for every 2 lights


helping u makes the 5th one now for me .......if u wanted to bury it i could help u with that

I'm going to consult with a friend that is a civil engineer to adress problem of insulation because I think that is going to be the most important thing for controlling the ambient temperature inside. I think I'm going to stick with only 4K in the flower room just to keep it simple because the more light the more cooling I would need. I was told that for every 1000w HPS I would need 4,000btu's and for every ballast inside the room another 2,500 btu's we are talking of 6,500 btu's for every light and ballast combo was thinking in gravita pro e 1000 DE. How do I size the dehumidifier, taking in consideration it will be a hydro system? Also how do I size the propane burner(CO2) for a setup like this the flower room would be 30x8x8= 1920 cu ft?As for the fresh air for the plants I thought just to place the air pump outside the container and supply it with a hose to each bucket to the air stone.
As for electricity the property has a electricity meter install already it will just be of extending the cable to the future power box on the container!
I you guys think of something else would be happy no hear
Thanks by the way for everything

h.cordero said:

I'm going to consult with a friend that is a civil engineer to adress problem of insulation because I think that is going to be the most important thing for controlling the ambient temperature inside. I think I'm going to stick with only 4K in the flower room just to keep it simple because the more light the more cooling I would need. I was told that for every 1000w HPS I would need 4,000btu's and for every ballast inside the room another 2,500 btu's we are talking of 6,500 btu's for every light and ballast combo was thinking in gravita pro e 1000 DE. How do I size the dehumidifier, taking in consideration it will be a hydro system? Also how do I size the propane burner(CO2) for a setup like this the flower room would be 30x8x8= 1920 cu ft?As for the fresh air for the plants I thought just to place the air pump outside the container and supply it with a hose to each bucket to the air stone.
As for electricity the property has a electricity meter install already it will just be of extending the cable to the future power box on the container!
I you guys think of something else would be happy no hear
Thanks by the way for everything

Click to expand...

1 when u talk to your guy about it .......u guys should hit a shipping yard and ask to look around go into on of the containers that been sitting there for a week (feel what i am talking about) ...take one of those laser temp guns and take reading s (find the hot spots)

2 4000btus with a air cooled hood yes and the ballast on a 15 foot cord in another section .......the gravita ones have the ballast right next to the light feeding it hanging with it (the ballast itself will add into the heat of the light ) u need to up it to 6000btus maybe even 8000btu ......as u are a closed system grow (the air is not exchanging to remove bulk of heat)

3 the dehumidifier ........the AC system u pick has a function for this ..... .....along as u pick a good AC system a 70 pint dehumidifier should do it for u ......u can set it with a drain hose to go outside to dump the water that way it only shuts off when it has the RH to the lvl u want (hence the pit with sand and gravel the water can be dumped on top with no issues)

4 the burner is measured by a few things
A what is the natural Co2 lvl in your area (if u have a natural 700ppm u only need 800ppm added in but if u are up a mountain your ppm might be 150ppm then u need to add 1350ppm)
B the controller for it will do most of the work ......measure the PPM when lights are on it will kick self on burn to fill to lvl then turn off ( a smaller one will burn longer a large one will burn shorter )


5 the air pumps into the water u want those in a area that the air has been cleaned ( lvl 7 air filter or better) ........placing the pump outside u are going to open it up to mold and fungi spores plus pollen's and other things .....u might get away with it or u might not depending on your area .......the best way to supply yours is a large pump .....if u go single pumps for the buckets u need to have outlets with in 6 feet of each bucket or run cords

if u run a large one near the outlet u can lay the air lines on the ground and run them to the bucket (to protect it take a piece of pipe thread the lines tho it and place on the corner of the floor and wall cut a gap out and pull the line to the bucket.......plus if the power goes out u would need to have all of them plugged in at worst with one u can use a battery back up for a few hours hoping the light comes back on before your next on-time

6 the amount of power used .........u are going to need the container to have it own fuse box and u need to make sure your are rated for enough power tho the main lines .....rem all the wiring needs to be to code other wise u are responsible for everything that goes wrong with no insurance helping to pay for it


7 if u are going to skip the pit and try for blocks .........please for the love of god make 2 foot footers in the ground that way at least u have 4 stable platforms to place it on ......then sink some 4x4s on the side to help make a brace for the wind (on the 40x8 side ) it is basically a metal sail a good 60 80 mile gust can shift it off the footers....rem u are hydro u need this to be lvl

add on for him

for this size and what u are talking about doing .......u need a water source hooked into the system
the 55 gallon barrel and hose water is not going to do it for u

1 your going to need a RO filter and your size 200 gallon a day filter
A the RO filter is to strip clean the water of anything so the only things the plant is getting is the feed u offer it ......better control of the system
B the RO filter has a waste water only part of what u send tho actually collects for use the rest runs off .......u are going to need to lay a drainage line if u do not do the pit
C invest in a pump for the line going to the RO filter to keep the pressure up so works better

2 u are going to need a drainage line in the container ..........as Co2 is a heavy gas and the pipe is going to be simple u need a cap on it so the gas u make stays where u want
A u can skip the cap if u add in a U bend to the sink line and the main line (as u will have a tie in for the RDWC to empty in)


3 U are going to need to do some math figure out exactly how much water will be in the system...... buckets plus mixing cells
A u need reservoir to top off the water during the week (plants will use water u want the system to stay at lvl can be done with a float valve in mixxing cell and a res sitting higher up so gravity feeds it)
B u will need special water barrels to store the water for the weekly flush and refill of the system about 2 times what system has in normally (use 1/4 or so for flushing out system then rest to fill back up leaving 1/4 in there encase mess ups ) it is RO water with a lid on it so it will be ok for use in system

water barrels like this
http://www.uline.com/BL_8154/Plastic-Drums?keywords=Water Barrel
they are made not to leach chemicals back into the water .........u have to make sure they are good for water storage if they leach crap into the water from being cheap plastic soon or later u are going to make alot of ppl sick

Long post are full of good info! Ok let's start from the beginning jeje
1 talk to a contractor/ home building person that his speciality is build homes out of shipping container he told me that a 3 inch spray foam insulation would be enough he told me that a 4 inch insulation would be the best just to be overkill for this kind of heat also to add a 1" exterior gypsum board covering the foam(my average ambient temps are 27C.)

2 I'm going to go with 8,000 btu's per gavita pro 1000 DE just to be safe

3 the dehumidifier would be a water cooled from hydro innovation 70 ppd http://www.hydroinnovations.com/collections/dehumidifiers/products/70-ppd-water-cooled-dehumidifier I choose this dehumidifier because it's water cooled and can use the same chiller that I'm using for the air handler.

4 the burner would be also water cooled from hydrofarm they told me that it's better to be a bigger burner than you need because it will be on much less than a smaller generator therefore emitting less heat in the long run.https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/HSCLP Any CO2 controller that's good quality?

5 as far as air pumps current culture supply me with two air pumps one 80lpm and another of 40 lpm a friend of mine suggested building a air tight box with a HEPA air filter that will block and type of spores or fungi.

6 the fuse box is a most I think! What other electrical things would I need to other than a couple of fans for air flow and night light (green bulbs). The main idea behind setting up this grow in a shipping container is that in any given moment I need the space I just move the container just disconnecting the electrical supply from the power meter and water supply that's it, everything is on the container self sustain. Like when you are in a RV park Just connect the water and electricity and your good to go! Boom

7 ro & water storage.
Current culture recommends a reservoir of 200gal to make water changes and top off. I saw today a very nice water container that is space saver and for water human consumption it's 265 gal http://www.lacasadeltanque.com/productos/almacenamiento-de-agua/
It's the first one called SLIM tank they are in my county also so no need to import it
For the ro/did I already have a 200gpd spectapure unit

8 mothers & clones.
Any ideas what kind of setup would I need for this easy to mantain and compact be cause im getting sort in space inside. I don't need that many clones only 16 per cycle because I only have room for 16 plants to flower, the idea is to transplant directly to the 8" net pots. Any ideas with this!

h.cordero said:

Long post are full of good info! Ok let's start from the beginning jeje
1 talk to a contractor/ home building person that his speciality is build homes out of shipping container he told me that a 3 inch spray foam insulation would be enough he told me that a 4 inch insulation would be the best just to be overkill for this kind of heat also to add a 1" exterior gypsum board covering the foam(my average ambient temps are 27C.)

2 I'm going to go with 8,000 btu's per gavita pro 1000 DE just to be safe

3 the dehumidifier would be a water cooled from hydro innovation 70 ppd http://www.hydroinnovations.com/collections/dehumidifiers/products/70-ppd-water-cooled-dehumidifier I choose this dehumidifier because it's water cooled and can use the same chiller that I'm using for the air handler.

4 the burner would be also water cooled from hydrofarm they told me that it's better to be a bigger burner than you need because it will be on much less than a smaller generator therefore emitting less heat in the long run.https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/HSCLP Any CO2 controller that's good quality?

5 as far as air pumps current culture supply me with two air pumps one 80lpm and another of 40 lpm a friend of mine suggested building a air tight box with a HEPA air filter that will block and type of spores or fungi.

6 the fuse box is a most I think! What other electrical things would I need to other than a couple of fans for air flow and night light (green bulbs). The main idea behind setting up this grow in a shipping container is that in any given moment I need the space I just move the container just disconnecting the electrical supply from the power meter and water supply that's it, everything is on the container self sustain. Like when you are in a RV park Just connect the water and electricity and your good to go! Boom

7 ro & water storage.
Current culture recommends a reservoir of 200gal to make water changes and top off. I saw today a very nice water container that is space saver and for water human consumption it's 265 gal http://www.lacasadeltanque.com/productos/almacenamiento-de-agua/
It's the first one called SLIM tank they are in my county also so no need to import it
For the ro/did I already have a 200gpd spectapure unit

8 mothers & clones.
Any ideas what kind of setup would I need for this easy to mantain and compact be cause im getting sort in space inside. I don't need that many clones only 16 per cycle because I only have room for 16 plants to flower, the idea is to transplant directly to the 8" net pots. Any ideas with this!

Click to expand...

ok about 6
u are right but u might need to weld a shelf on the outsdie of the box so the compressor for the AC system (i am thinking u are doing mini splits)

as for 8
u need room for the mother plant so 2x2 or 3x3 area (the light can be a simple t5 4 foot 8 bulbs) the left over area under the light u can use to start the clones
2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/Site-Aeroponic-Plant-Cloner-Bucket/dp/B00FQ1XT5G
take the plant out and put in basket with hydro pebbles the roots will keep growing down

ok to help u out ........this is prison jail info u might not know it
1 gallon of water is 8 lbs of weight ........your talking 265 gallons that is over 1 ton unevenly distributed ......u need the pit with gravel .....stands will not work for u with something that big on one part of that side will sink (what i was talking about was maybe 2 55 gallon barrels and maybe a tote set up with 30 gallons to fill in during the week )

jail part is it is how u work out in your cell trash bag of water with so many gallons

h.cordero said:

Long post are full of good info! Ok let's start from the beginning jeje
1 talk to a contractor/ home building person that his speciality is build homes out of shipping container he told me that a 3 inch spray foam insulation would be enough he told me that a 4 inch insulation would be the best just to be overkill for this kind of heat also to add a 1" exterior gypsum board covering the foam(my average ambient temps are 27C.)

2 I'm going to go with 8,000 btu's per gavita pro 1000 DE just to be safe

3 the dehumidifier would be a water cooled from hydro innovation 70 ppd http://www.hydroinnovations.com/collections/dehumidifiers/products/70-ppd-water-cooled-dehumidifier I choose this dehumidifier because it's water cooled and can use the same chiller that I'm using for the air handler.

4 the burner would be also water cooled from hydrofarm they told me that it's better to be a bigger burner than you need because it will be on much less than a smaller generator therefore emitting less heat in the long run.https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/HSCLP Any CO2 controller that's good quality?

5 as far as air pumps current culture supply me with two air pumps one 80lpm and another of 40 lpm a friend of mine suggested building a air tight box with a HEPA air filter that will block and type of spores or fungi.

6 the fuse box is a most I think! What other electrical things would I need to other than a couple of fans for air flow and night light (green bulbs). The main idea behind setting up this grow in a shipping container is that in any given moment I need the space I just move the container just disconnecting the electrical supply from the power meter and water supply that's it, everything is on the container self sustain. Like when you are in a RV park Just connect the water and electricity and your good to go! Boom

7 ro & water storage.
Current culture recommends a reservoir of 200gal to make water changes and top off. I saw today a very nice water container that is space saver and for water human consumption it's 265 gal http://www.lacasadeltanque.com/productos/almacenamiento-de-agua/
It's the first one called SLIM tank they are in my county also so no need to import it
For the ro/did I already have a 200gpd spectapure unit

8 mothers & clones.
Any ideas what kind of setup would I need for this easy to mantain and compact be cause im getting sort in space inside. I don't need that many clones only 16 per cycle because I only have room for 16 plants to flower, the idea is to transplant directly to the 8" net pots. Any ideas with this!

Click to expand...

That dehuey is a stand alone unit and also comes from Panasonic- for a lot less money.

h.cordero said:

Long post are full of good info! Ok let's start from the beginning jeje
1 talk to a contractor/ home building person that his speciality is build homes out of shipping container he told me that a 3 inch spray foam insulation would be enough he told me that a 4 inch insulation would be the best just to be overkill for this kind of heat also to add a 1" exterior gypsum board covering the foam(my average ambient temps are 27C.)

2 I'm going to go with 8,000 btu's per gavita pro 1000 DE just to be safe

3 the dehumidifier would be a water cooled from hydro innovation 70 ppd http://www.hydroinnovations.com/collections/dehumidifiers/products/70-ppd-water-cooled-dehumidifier I choose this dehumidifier because it's water cooled and can use the same chiller that I'm using for the air handler.

4 the burner would be also water cooled from hydrofarm they told me that it's better to be a bigger burner than you need because it will be on much less than a smaller generator therefore emitting less heat in the long run.https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/HSCLP Any CO2 controller that's good quality?

5 as far as air pumps current culture supply me with two air pumps one 80lpm and another of 40 lpm a friend of mine suggested building a air tight box with a HEPA air filter that will block and type of spores or fungi.

6 the fuse box is a most I think! What other electrical things would I need to other than a couple of fans for air flow and night light (green bulbs). The main idea behind setting up this grow in a shipping container is that in any given moment I need the space I just move the container just disconnecting the electrical supply from the power meter and water supply that's it, everything is on the container self sustain. Like when you are in a RV park Just connect the water and electricity and your good to go! Boom

7 ro & water storage.
Current culture recommends a reservoir of 200gal to make water changes and top off. I saw today a very nice water container that is space saver and for water human consumption it's 265 gal http://www.lacasadeltanque.com/productos/almacenamiento-de-agua/
It's the first one called SLIM tank they are in my county also so no need to import it
For the ro/did I already have a 200gpd spectapure unit

8 mothers & clones.
Any ideas what kind of setup would I need for this easy to mantain and compact be cause im getting sort in space inside. I don't need that many clones only 16 per cycle because I only have room for 16 plants to flower, the idea is to transplant directly to the 8" net pots. Any ideas with this!

Click to expand...

had to do some looking

4
the burner unit u had .......i know that one it has a 2 piece to it that would take even more heat out of the system
http://hydrobuilder.com/hydro-innovations-ice-cap-heat-scrubber.html
that will take the last of the heat out of the burner something like 98% hooked in with the water cooling the unit

and the controller
https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/APCECOD
is a good one .......i would get a extra senor to store for when this one goes bad
hang the senor bud lvl in the middle of the buds ........when the lights are on it will register lights are on test the air for Co2 lvls and kick on the burner unt ........the reason i said this one is because the senors can be replaced as they do wear out over time (u keep the brain instead of replacing the whole thing for that smaller unit )

edit
the water cooling this needs to be on it own system .......if u pass feed water over the heat u can offer a chance for the bad micros to get a colony going in the water getting u root slime

justugh said:

had to do some looking

4
the burner unit u had .......i know that one it has a 2 piece to it that would take even more heat out of the system
http://hydrobuilder.com/hydro-innovations-ice-cap-heat-scrubber.html
that will take the last of the heat out of the burner something like 98% hooked in with the water cooling the unit

and the controller
https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/APCECOD
is a good one .......i would get a extra senor to store for when this one goes bad
hang the senor bud lvl in the middle of the buds ........when the lights are on it will register lights are on test the air for Co2 lvls and kick on the burner unt ........the reason i said this one is because the senors can be replaced as they do wear out over time (u keep the brain instead of replacing the whole thing for that smaller unit

Click to expand...

Those heat scrubber are good but not for this application any more because dimensions of the setup, to small.
Today I talk to the SURN tech adviser how to dimension the system cooling system and gave me lots of good info.
I was talking to a friend about what would be the best setting to get the most amount of grams per square feet and he recommends a sea of green veg small(2-3weeks or less) instead than 4-5 weeks that I was thinking and got me thinking of another setup also of 4,000watts or bigger.
Does anyone have another setup in there mind that could I use. @justugh you told me that this was your 5 container that you help in, what was those setup in the other containers I'm curious!?

Thanks again

Imo put the container underground and use cobs.
The Earth helps regulate container temp and cobs keep temps manageable.
Sounds like your gonna spend lots of money...do it right or do it twice lol


http://www.treehugger.com/sustaina
ble-product-design/how-to-build-a-underground-shelter-with-a-shipping-container-video.html

Kul said:

Imo put the container underground and use cobs.
The Earth helps regulate container temp and cobs keep temps manageable.
Sounds like your gonna spend lots of money...do it right or do it twice lol


http://www.treehugger.com/sustaina
ble-product-design/how-to-build-a-underground-shelter-with-a-shipping-container-video.html

Click to expand...

That's the thing I don't have the money to do it twice! No body does!
Yesterday talking to a friend he showed me the led fixtures, diy and bought and they look really nice he show me the sypder 1200 and the CXB3590 and was REALLY impress.
Maybe you could share some info of your build or if you have a thread even better!

h.cordero said:

That's the thing I don't have the money to do it twice! No body does!
Yesterday talking to a friend he showed me the led fixtures, diy and bought and they look really nice he show me the sypder 1200 and the CXB3590 and was REALLY impress.
Maybe you could share some info of your build or if you have a thread even better!

Click to expand...

I don't have a specific example to show you but i've been considering doing the same and that's the direction i'd take.

Don't rush into it, you need to research a lot!!!

You can find tons of info on underground containers using google

DIY CXB3590 all the way, stay away from manufactured LED units, you can do it better cheaper yourself. Use the Indoor->LED section in this forum for info

h.cordero said:

Those heat scrubber are good but not for this application any more because dimensions of the setup, to small.
Today I talk to the SURN tech adviser how to dimension the system cooling system and gave me lots of good info.
I was talking to a friend about what would be the best setting to get the most amount of grams per square feet and he recommends a sea of green veg small(2-3weeks or less) instead than 4-5 weeks that I was thinking and got me thinking of another setup also of 4,000watts or bigger.
Does anyone have another setup in there mind that could I use. @justugh you told me that this was your 5 container that you help in, what was those setup in the other containers I'm curious!?

Thanks again

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2 builds were underground in usa
1 build was under ground in ireland
2 builds above ground (basically make a room to grow soil)

it depends on the method u feel most comfy with soil or hydro .......photos or autos

the simplest one is a auto plants soils ........u start the seed in a plug move that plug to the final planter and let it go it will do everything on it own u just supply water feed and light (and the light timing can be 24/0 or 20/4)

Consider a reefer trailer. Pun intended. I mean a trailer already fitted with a refridgerator for transporting foods. Like if it were a trailer, not a Shipping Container, think about a 43 footer. They are already insulated to some degree and have the reefer unit but. Not sure how much it would cost in diesel fuel. Though you could always replace it with some other refridgerator unit if it's too much. I am thinking a chiller set up. But, unfamiliar with that method. Anyway dude. Love the idea! Just don't run out of Deisel fuel. They have shipping containers set up with reefers as well tho.