Serious Soil PH Problem Need Help

benmarker92

benmarker92

Member
http://www.promixfindgrowtopia.com/product/detail/pro-mix-ultimate-potting-mix

Tested my run off couple times and its at a ph of 4. way to acidic.

Link above is the soil I'm using. Soil has lime in it, with a decent amount of slow release fertilizer. I've used this same soil before with no problems but I never tested my run off before. MY plant is a month old and has been showing signs of acidic soil since week 2. My friend is also growing in the same stuff experiencing the same problems. He as well used the dirt in the summer indoors with 0 problems Really curious why the lime in the soil is not taking effect like it did in the summer and what i can do without tossing my plant out. hes been in 4gals of this soil for awhile now.

I water with tap water ph of 7, let to sit out for the night. only water when its dry. plain water no nutrients.

http://www.aggrand.com/store/products/lime.aspx
I just purchased this product online to hopefully help. But I believe its just a temporary fix nothing that will work for good?

Anybody with any advice and suggestions on PH for me to fix my soil? Please and thank you
photo 1.JPG
 
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benmarker92 said:
oh yea sorry totally forgot to say what my run off was. added it to the main post. Run off was 4.0. meter was just calibrated.
Click to expand...

Something is not right. You need to add lime asap to get that PH under control. Perhaps it was a bad batch:?: Coir and peat are naturally acidic. You said you used that soil before. Is this grow from the same bag as before or new bag? Did your friend that is having problems source his soil from the same source or maybe you are both sharing a bag?
 
Wicked ReToddDid said:
Something is not right. You need to add line asap to get that PH under control. Perhaps it was a bad batch:?: Coir and peat are naturally acidic. You said you used that soil before. Is this grow from the same bag as before or new bag? Did your friend that is having problems source his soil from the same source or maybe you are both sharing a bag?
Click to expand...
All soil is brand new and bought separately at different home depots. I keep using small bags, so my one pot has 3 bags of this stuff in it.
 
benmarker92 said:
All soil is brand new and bought separately at different home depots. I keep using small bags, so my one pot has 3 bags of this stuff in it.
Click to expand...
benmarker92 said:
All soil is brand new and bought separately at different home depots. I keep using small bags, so my one pot has 3 bags of this stuff in it.
Click to expand...

I've worked with the Pro-mix BX and HP, but never heard of the mix you have, with slow release - sounds like a miracle grow soil. How dry do you let the soil get before adding plain water? How much runoff do you get after watering? I'm thinking the soil dried too much, fert build up without a good runoff to rinse.

Time to flush with PH'd water.
 
Last edited:
Wicked ReToddDid said:
I've worked with the Pro-mix BX and HP, but never heard of the mix you have, with slow release - sounds like a miracle grow soil. How dry do you let the soil get before adding plain water? How much runoff do you get after watering? I'm thinking the soil dried too much, fert build up without a good runoff to rinse.

Time to flush with PH'd water.
Click to expand...
I thought it was a overwatering problem so I let the top 4 inches dry all the way up. Bottom was still pretty moist read a 5/10 on my moisture meter.

Just watered today run off was barely anything just enough to tip the cup and complete the test.
 
It looks like you had some issues early on, but from the pic, new growth appears decent.

What lamp setup do you have going? What about temps and humidity?

I personally don't normally comment on deficiency/burn questions, but with your new growth, it seems things maybe have stabilized a bit. You don't want to make numerous drastic changes all at once, especially with healthy growth coming up. One change at a time, wait it out to see if things change, then change something else.

peep this: http://i.imgur.com/14DFU.jpg

-spek
 
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You want to let it dry until the leaves droop. Lift the container to feel how light it feels. From then on, don't water until it feels about that light. It won't hurt the plant to do this a time or two. It will bounce back in 30 minutes after watering. (But, it's a slight stress. You don't want to do it all the time. It's just a tradeoff between one stress to learn what "too dry" feels like so you can be sure you don't keep it too wet.). It's important to let it dry thoroughly because the soil's ph will rise as it dries. If you keep it too moist, you'll hold it too low.

If I were you, I would let it dry till droop (get that hands-on feel for "too dry") and then flush for about 100% runoff. Rule out salt buildup from the time-release nutes.

If that didn't fix it, I'd mix 1/2 tsp/gal hydrated lime (not dolomite) and pour it into the soil. The ph of the water will be about 10. I've done it, even 1tsp/gal (which was about ph 11). It's a harsh option but if you think you'll lose the plant, it's an option. When I had a serious problem I did two doses of 1/2 tsp/gal, and onne dose of 1 tsp/gal. (It turned out I had salt build up. I would have been better off flushing and reducing the amount I feed. If you have salt build up, the flush should help, and then you'd want to use more water with each watering to get 20-30% runoff each time.).

You can also foliar feed half-strength nutes ph'ed to 6.5. This will get nutes to the plant while you work on the soil.
 
spek9 said:
It looks like you had some issues early on, but from the pic, new growth appears decent.

What lamp setup do you have going? What about temps and humidity?

I personally don't normally comment on deficiency/burn questions, but with your new growth, it seems things maybe have stabilized a bit.

-spek
Click to expand...
I am only using 2 42watt cfls 6400k. Set up is pretty much as good as it gets beside my humidity problen. All the light is reflected good and plant is lst trained here some pics. Light is 2-4" from all tops.

New growth is coming in in abundance but does seem to be still effected a bit maybe recovering.
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
benmarker92 said:
I am only using 2 42watt cfls 6400k. Set up is pretty much as good as it gets beside my humidity problen. All the light is reflected good and plant is lst trained here some pics. Light is 2-4" from all tops.

New growth is coming in in abundance but does seem to be still effected a bit maybe recovering.
View attachment 3306440 View attachment 3306438 View attachment 3306439
Click to expand...

I edited my original post to you to say that you shouldn't make a whole bunch of changes all at once out of panic; change only one thing, wait a couple-to-three days, then if symptoms don't get better, change something else. Writing these changes down helps.

Don't 'love' them to death ;)

-spek
 
az2000 said:
You want to let it dry until the leaves droop. Lift the container to feel how light it feels. From then on, don't water until it feels about that light. It won't hurt the plant to do this a time or two. It will bounce back in 30 minutes after watering. (But, it's a slight stress. You don't want to do it all the time. It's just a tradeoff between one stress to learn what "too dry" feels like so you can be sure you don't keep it too wet.). It's important to let it dry thoroughly because the soil's ph will rise as it dries. If you keep it too moist, you'll hold it too low.

If I were you, I would let it dry till droop (get that hands-on feel for "too dry") and then flush for about 100% runoff. Rule out salt buildup from the time-release nutes.

If that didn't fix it, I'd mix 1/2 tsp/gal hydrated lime (not dolomite) and pour it into the soil. The ph of the water will be about 10. I've done it, even 1tsp/gal (which was about ph 11). It's a harsh option but if you think you'll lose the plant, it's an option. When I had a serious problem I did two doses of 1/2 tsp/gal, and onne dose of 1 tsp/gal. (It turned out I had salt build up. I would have been better off flushing and reducing the amount I feed. If you have salt build up, the flush should help, and then you'd want to use more water with each watering to get 20-30% runoff each time.).

You can also foliar feed half-strength nutes ph'ed to 6.5. This will get nutes to the plant while you work on the soil.
Click to expand...
Lots of new info for me to use thanks. I pretty much did the droop watering this time but have not flushed the dirt at all it really could just be a build up.
Any directions on flushing? Never done anything like this before. Used 3L water this time and got less then 1/8th of a cup.

I actually bought some really good hydrated lime online link in main post.

If I was to foiler spray could i use the earth juice originals line up brewed in a tea?
 
benmarker92 said:
Lots of new info for me to use thanks. I pretty much did the droop watering this time but have not flushed the dirt at all it really could just be a build up.
Any directions on flushing? Never done anything like this before. Used 3L water this time and got less then 1/8th of a cup.

I actually bought some really good hydrated lime online link in main post.

If I was to foiler spray could i use the earth juice originals line up brewed in a tea?
Click to expand...

Be careful with the hydrated lime. You shouldn't ever have to use it. I bought 2 lbs when I had acidic soil. Like I said, it turned out to be salt buildup. I doubt I'll ever need to use it again. It's the last thing you should reach for. Powdered dolomite lime will be more useful. (It has to be powdered. The pellets won't do much.). You can add 1 Tbsp/gal of soil. But, dolomite lime won't fix salt buildup. You'll want to water with 20-30% runoff each time. If you don't get acidic soil, reduce runoff each watering and see if (where) acidic soil returns. Or, better yet, use a soil without time-release nutes and be in more control of their feeding. I use Grow More Sea Grow. It's inexpensive and dry. Easy to use. Others use Jack's Classic, similar ease and inexpensive. Grow More Sea Grow has organic components, not pure synthetic like I believe Jacks is. (Point is, you don't have to buy into the expensive "boutique" products, multiple bottles to mix, etc.).

Flushing should be like how you water. Just get 100% runoff or more. If your containers are 2.5gal, and you normally water 1 gal, you'd want to water with 2-3 gals to get 1gal+ out. If you wanted to boost the ph a little you could add 1/4 to 1/2 tsp/gal hydrated lime. But, I wouldn't. I'd trust that it's salt buildup and a flush should bring it up without the harshness of hydrated lime.

You'd have to call the nutrient manufacturer if their product is safe for foliar feeding. I sprayed AK fish emulsion, AK kelp, AK morbloom and 1/2 tsp/qt epsom salt. Just stuff I had laying around and wasn't using. Keep plants out of strong light. Water droplets can focus light and cause burns. If plants are flowering you have to weigh the risk of bud rot, use fans to accelerate drying if bud rot is a concern, etc.
 
benmarker92 said:
I thought it was a overwatering problem so I let the top 4 inches dry all the way up. Bottom was still pretty moist read a 5/10 on my moisture meter.

Just watered today run off was barely anything just enough to tip the cup and complete the test.
Click to expand...

It very well could be overwatering and the "slow release" is releasing too fast, in an always wet soil. That situation would explain the burning too.

Flush with 100% pot volume
Add a little lime
Get better at knowing when to water
Container should have a lot of drainage holes
 
benmarker92 said:
http://www.promixfindgrowtopia.com/product/detail/pro-mix-ultimate-potting-mix

Tested my run off couple times and its at a ph of 4. way to acidic.

Link above is the soil I'm using. Soil has lime in it, with a decent amount of slow release fertilizer. I've used this same soil before with no problems but I never tested my run off before. MY plant is a month old and has been showing signs of acidic soil since week 2. My friend is also growing in the same stuff experiencing the same problems. He as well used the dirt in the summer indoors with 0 problems Really curious why the lime in the soil is not taking effect like it did in the summer and what i can do without tossing my plant out. hes been in 4gals of this soil for awhile now.

I water with tap water ph of 7, let to sit out for the night. only water when its dry. plain water no nutrients.

http://www.aggrand.com/store/products/lime.aspx
I just purchased this product online to hopefully help. But I believe its just a temporary fix nothing that will work for good?

Anybody with any advice and suggestions on PH for me to fix my soil? Please and thank you
View attachment 3306370
Click to expand...
if u are in soil u dont really need to ph at all i ahve tryed both ways with no real ill effects u will lose abit of yeild not heaps but u will soil should buffer the ph it is best to keep it round the 6.0 -7.0 for best intake but its not vital if u are growing 6 or more plants well u will make up in yeild from the plants but if ur going 1 or 2 dial that ph in right keep it inbetween 6-7 6 would be better
 
I think it looks like you have a couple problems. It looks like your temps at one point or another got a little high, and it almost looks like the tips are burn from hitting the lights or getting really close. Also growing in a sphagnum peat moss base is tricky with Ph because sphagnum peat moss is very acidic. Add some powdered dolomite lime like 2 tblspoon per gallon of soil on the top of the soil and work it in with your fingers if your worried about pH. Also get a soil pH meter fairly cheap and you can get it almost anywhere. Good luck.
 
o
az2000 said:
Be careful with the hydrated lime. You shouldn't ever have to use it. I bought 2 lbs when I had acidic soil. Like I said, it turned out to be salt buildup. I doubt I'll ever need to use it again. It's the last thing you should reach for. Powdered dolomite lime will be more useful. (It has to be powdered. The pellets won't do much.). You can add 1 Tbsp/gal of soil. But, dolomite lime won't fix salt buildup. You'll want to water with 20-30% runoff each time. If you don't get acidic soil, reduce runoff each watering and see if (where) acidic soil returns. Or, better yet, use a soil without time-release nutes and be in more control of their feeding. I use Grow More Sea Grow. It's inexpensive and dry. Easy to use. Others use Jack's Classic, similar ease and inexpensive. Grow More Sea Grow has organic components, not pure synthetic like I believe Jacks is. (Point is, you don't have to buy into the expensive "boutique" products, multiple bottles to mix, etc.).

Flushing should be like how you water. Just get 100% runoff or more. If your containers are 2.5gal, and you normally water 1 gal, you'd want to water with 2-3 gals to get 1gal+ out. If you wanted to boost the ph a little you could add 1/4 to 1/2 tsp/gal hydrated lime. But, I wouldn't. I'd trust that it's salt buildup and a flush should bring it up without the harshness of hydrated lime.

You'd have to call the nutrient manufacturer if their product is safe for foliar feeding. I sprayed AK fish emulsion, AK kelp, AK morbloom and 1/2 tsp/qt epsom salt. Just stuff I had laying around and wasn't using. Keep plants out of strong light. Water droplets can focus light and cause burns. If plants are flowering you have to weigh the risk of bud rot, use fans to accelerate drying if bud rot is a concern, etc.
Click to expand...
Okay thanks a lot. I will flush next watering. If ph doesn't correct itself i will try a little bit of my liquid lime to get it its magnesium and calcium and buffer ph for a little bit. Hopefully will fix problem, also watering with 20-30% run off every time.
 
Cpappa27 said:
Also get a soil pH meter fairly cheap and you can get it almost anywhere.
Click to expand...

Those cheap "found almost anywhere" soil probes are extremely inaccurate. I have a $60 Control Wizard Accurate 8. It's pretty good. But, once you have a soil and nutrient program (i.e., you're not overfeeding causing salt build up and acidic soil), there's little reason to probe the soil or test runoff ph. It's handy to have though, able to see how ph rises as soil dries. Or, to see the initial ph of a soil (adding a smidge of hydrated lime or aluminum sulfate to raise or lower ph, if someone wants to be particular.).

Cultivating dolomite into the top soil is a good idea. But, it takes 10-14 days to see an effect. I think in most cases acidic soil is overfeeding. A flush should improve it faster than dolomite.
 
az2000 said:
Those cheap "found almost anywhere" soil probes are extremely inaccurate. I have a $60 Control Wizard Accurate 8. It's pretty good. But, once you have a soil and nutrient program (i.e., you're not overfeeding causing salt build up and acidic soil), there's little reason to probe the soil or test runoff ph. It's handy to have though, able to see how ph rises as soil dries. Or, to see the initial ph of a soil (adding a smidge of hydrated lime or aluminum sulfate to raise or lower ph, if someone wants to be particular.).

Cultivating dolomite into the top soil is a good idea. But, it takes 10-14 days to see an effect. I think in most cases acidic soil is overfeeding. A flush should improve it faster than dolomite.
Click to expand...
I've heard that fine dolomite lime will only buffer the top if that's all you could mix it in. So it must be mixed thoroughly before planting? I have liquid lime coming that goes through 300mesh at 100%. Should correct problem instantly but who knows for how long.

Cpappa27 said:
I think it looks like you have a couple problems. It looks like your temps at one point or another got a little high, and it almost looks like the tips are burn from hitting the lights or getting really close. Also growing in a sphagnum peat moss base is tricky with Ph because sphagnum peat moss is very acidic. Add some powdered dolomite lime like 2 tblspoon per gallon of soil on the top of the soil and work it in with your fingers if your worried about pH. Also get a soil pH meter fairly cheap and you can get it almost anywhere. Good luck.
Click to expand...
My temperature is always at 76. plants never been closer then 2" from the bulb. The bulb is only 80 degrees itself, I can hold my hand on it.
 
benmarker92 said:
I've heard that fine dolomite lime will only buffer the top if that's all you could mix it in. So it must be mixed thoroughly before planting? I have liquid lime coming that goes through 300mesh at 100%. Should correct problem instantly but who knows for how long.


My temperature is always at 76. plants never been closer then 2" from the bulb. The bulb is only 80 degrees itself, I can hold my hand on it.
Click to expand...
I understand but Im just going by what I see in the picture. Leaves cupping up, fried ends. I don't know buddy I never used CFLs, there little heat bombs in my opinion. Once again good luck, if you use that liquid or hydrated lime then be careful you don't burn your plants.
 
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