Roleadro LED any good I’m not sure what to go for

I’m currently using a 250w hps with dimer ballast i did want to use my 400w but it’s to hot. It uses about £70 a month in electric and it’s hot so I’m think about changing to LED i found this only and I’m just wondering if anyone has actually try one out for them selfs.


Any help on LEDs
 

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Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
That thing is garbage. It's only 165 watts. Your little HPS will outperform that thing.

You're going to have to spend more money to get a decent LED. Go to the LED subsection of Indoor Growing here on RIU if you want to learn more.
 

Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
It’s says it’s 600w just pulls less from the wall because there led ??
It's marketing bullshit designed to trick those not in the know. Now you do.

If you scroll down to the specs it lists the actual power draw.

If you can't afford a real quantum board, look into knock off versions. Here is one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spider-Farmer-Dimmable-Spectrum-Efficiency/dp/B07TTHFSKT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2OE81ZWO80W1N&keywords=quantum+board+led+grow+light&qid=1568573403&sprefix=quantum+b,aps,320&sr=8-5

Or like I mentioned before, go to the LED section of this forum. You could do a strip or cob build with a Meanwell 185 driver for really cheap that would crush that small footprint you're covering.
 
It's marketing bullshit designed to trick those not in the know. Now you do.

If you scroll down to the specs it lists the actual power draw.

If you can't afford a real quantum board, look into knock off versions.

Or like I mentioned before, go to the LED section of this forum. You could do a strip or cob build with a Meanwell 185 driver for really cheap that would crush that small footprint you're covering.
I’m all down for that as long as it ain’t expensive I’m only looking to spend around £80 and actual power draw just means what it draws from the plug not the light it giving out right???? That’s what I read up because some other guy was saying that the power draw was the watt it’s giving off but loads of people was saying that’s not how LEDs workthey draw less power and that’s why people want them because there cheaper on electric
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
So either bite the bullet or make payments in the form of electrical bill. It's like renting vs owning a home. You can run the HPS and pay for bulbs and power forever or pay for the led and in a couple years be ahead of the game, for a little while because the newer LED will be crushing it in a few years and you will want to upgrade. Plus LED does diminish output over time as the surfaces of the LED react to chemicals in the air, so they lose light output over time, just not as fast as a HPS bulb but more expensive to replace.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I’m all down for that as long as it ain’t expensive I’m only looking to spend around £80 and actual power draw just means what it draws from the plug not the light it giving out right???? That’s what I read up because some other guy was saying that the power draw was the watt it’s giving off but loads of people was saying that’s not how LEDs workthey draw less power and that’s why people want them because there cheaper on electric
LEDs give off more light per watt, they are more efficient , in comparison to household incandescent lights they are incredibly efficient. For example in your kitchen you could replace a 50w halogen with a 5w LED. But HPS, though less efficient than LED is still far more efficient than incandescents. So the gap between the two isn't as great when it comes to growing.

You can shave off about a 3rd of the power needed using very good LEDs, but those red/blue diode amazon lights are made from cheap parts that are not really any more efficient than HPS.
You just cant buy a light to replace a 400w HPS for the sort of price your talking.

The 600w part comes from the fact it uses 60x 10w diodes, it makes it sound powerful. Its a great sing of lights to avoid.

If it sounds too good to be true, it is.

No offence intended but if you only have £80 to spend it would be better spent sorting out your current set up because an air cooled 400w hps or 250w shouldnt be an issue to control the temps and it certainly shouldn't be costing you £15 a week to run.
I would imagine your either not venting the heat out of the house or you have a poor quality fan that isn't capable of overcoming the resistance of the filter.

If you want to go with LED on that budget you might be able to build one for that price, it would certainly outperform a light from amazon of similar value.

Also worth knowing pretty much everyone that's responded to any of your threads are all LED guys so they know the crack.
 
LEDs give off more light per watt, they are more efficient , in comparison to household incandescent lights they are incredibly efficient. For example in your kitchen you could replace a 50w halogen with a 5w LED. But HPS, though less efficient than LED is still far more efficient than incandescents. So the gap between the two isn't as great when it comes to growing.

You can shave off about a 3rd of the power needed using very good LEDs, but those red/blue diode amazon lights are made from cheap parts that are not really any more efficient than HPS.
You just cant buy a light to replace a 400w HPS for the sort of price your talking.

The 600w part comes from the fact it uses 60x 10w diodes, it makes it sound powerful. Its a great sing of lights to avoid.

If it sounds too good to be true, it is.

No offence intended but if you only have £80 to spend it would be better spent sorting out your current set up because an air cooled 400w hps or 250w shouldnt be an issue to control the temps and it certainly shouldn't be costing you £15 a week to run.
I would imagine your either not venting the heat out of the house or you have a poor quality fan that isn't capable of overcoming the resistance of the filter.

If you want to go with LED on that budget you might be able to build one for that price, it would certainly outperform a light from amazon of similar value.

Also worth knowing pretty much everyone that's responded to any of your threads are all LED guys so they know the crack.
Already using a 6” cool tube mate and it’s venting outside but I do have a 5” carbon filter on a 6” fan if that makes a difference but yeah it’s cost £2 a day to run so £2 x 7 = £14 a week I’m not sure if my ultravivid 600w digital dimmable ballast is the culprit????? But yeah it’s sitting 28 with the 250w so I can’t put the 400w on and I have no holes in the top sides of my tent to run the cool tube that says why I have cool tube linked to the carbon filter as that’s could knock a few degrees off if it was separate
 

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coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Already using a 6” cool tube mate and it’s venting outside but I do have a 5” carbon filter on a 6” fan if that makes a difference but yeah it’s cost £2 a day to run so £2 x 7 = £14 a week I’m not sure if my ultravivid 600w digital dimmable ballast is the culprit????? But yeah it’s sitting 28 with the 250w so I can’t put the 400w on and I have no holes in the top sides of my tent to run the cool tube that says why I have cool tube linked to the carbon filter as that’s could knock a few degrees off if it was separate
Difficult to see in that pic. But yeah for sure using a smaller filter wont be helping, that fan isn't much cop either.
I would change electricity providers , you shouldn't be paying more than 17p per kilowatt hour.


Do you have your thermometer in the shade above the light line or right under the light?
Lights on all night and off in hottest part of the day?
Ballast outside the tent? The ballast shouldn't be using more than 300w if its dimmed to 250.
Daft question but radiators in that room are all off?

What's the cfm of the fan?
 
Difficult to see in that pic. But yeah for sure using a smaller filter wont be helping, that fan isn't much cop either.
I would change electricity providers , you shouldn't be paying more than 17p per kilowatt hour.


Do you have your thermometer in the shade above the light line or right under the light?
Lights on all night and off in hottest part of the day?
Ballast outside the tent? The ballast shouldn't be using more than 300w if its dimmed to 250.
Daft question but radiators in that room are all off?

What's the cfm of the fan?
Yeah ballast is outside and inside with the 250w it sits at 28 degrees fan is a 6” TT and is 552m3 but like I say with a 5” carbon filter
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Yeah ballast is outside and inside with the 250w it sits at 28 degrees fan is a 6” TT and is 552m3 but like I say with a 5” carbon filter
Yeah I thought it might be a TT fan, I bought one many years ago, they just are not fit for the job mate.

I would look for a ruck/can or RVK , you should be able to get one new for around £65 or pick up a second hand one for about £20-30.
You shouldn't even need a 6" but since your already having issues with heat better to go big and play safe.
Pick yourself up a 6" filter which matches the CFM or m3ph. It can't be less cfm than the fan.

@jondamon runs 400w hps, perhaps he can chime in on what his specific set up is and add his thoughts.
Like I say, it shouldn't be difficult to maintain good environment.

I know you started this thread with LED in mind and you can still go that route if you want, but its gona cost far more to do it right and I see the easier and cheaper option is to sort out your ventilation first. Even if you went with LED you would probably end up needing to sort out your ventilation anyway.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Yeah I thought it might be a TT fan, I bought one many years ago, they just are not fit for the job mate.

I would look for a ruck/can or RVK , you should be able to get one new for around £65 or pick up a second hand one for about £20-30.
You shouldn't even need a 6" but since your already having issues with heat better to go big and play safe.
Pick yourself up a 6" filter which matches the CFM or m3ph. It can't be less cfm than the fan.

@jondamon runs 400w hps, perhaps he can chime in on what his specific set up is and add his thoughts.
Like I say, it shouldn't be difficult to maintain good environment.

I know you started this thread with LED in mind and you can still go that route if you want, but its gona cost far more to do it right and I see the easier and cheaper option is to sort out your ventilation first. Even if you went with LED you would probably end up needing to sort out your ventilation anyway.

First thing I noticed is a lot of bends in his ducting.

My setup consists of the following.

Adjust a wing open reflector

Maxibright 400w digi ballast OHMEGA HPs lamp.

3 passive Intake vents 2x5inch 1x6inch

900m3/h rhino pro 6” carbon filter

RVK150A1 centrifugal fan

SMS fan speed controller (temp control)

1 oscillating fan inside.

Room size 7ft long 3.5ft wide 8ft high

This keeps me running within 2C of external temperatures.

If outside is 30C I would be running at 32C.

I run my lights on between 8pm and 8am so I am making use of cooler air intakes.

My 18/6 runs 8pm - 2pm the following day and off between 2pm-8pm.

I must admit I haven’t read the whole thing just seen @coreywebster wanted me to chime in with my setup.

Rule of thumb

Exhaust away from your grow.
Intake from a cool source

Reduce ducting bends to the minimum, every 90 degree bend adds 10-20% more power need from your extraction fan.

Try to keep ducting as straight as possible.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Already using a 6” cool tube mate and it’s venting outside but I do have a 5” carbon filter on a 6” fan if that makes a difference but yeah it’s cost £2 a day to run so £2 x 7 = £14 a week I’m not sure if my ultravivid 600w digital dimmable ballast is the culprit????? But yeah it’s sitting 28 with the 250w so I can’t put the 400w on and I have no holes in the top sides of my tent to run the cool tube that says why I have cool tube linked to the carbon filter as that’s could knock a few degrees off if it was separate

Ok so I’m all caught up now with all convos.

My honest advice is this.

1. Look at energy providers I pay £0.14 per kWh for my 400w setup and extras adds up to around £30 a month.

2. Take your £80 and look for a bigger tent if you’re able to with space restrictions.
1.2 x 1.2 x 2 would be perfect and give you good space to work within the area and utilise the 400w you want to really run.

3. Make sure you’re not recycling the air in the area you’re growing in. Eg. Intaking from within the same room that you’re exhausting into.

4. Keep duct runs as straight as possible try not to create 90 degree bends.

5. Eventually buy a better fan RVK150A1 is plenty.

6. Match filter to fan. Remember to always over spec your filter compared to your fan. Eg my fan is rated at 450m3/h, my rhino pro filter is rated at 900m3/h so even when my fan is running at 100% my filter can more than adequately keep up with demand and then some!
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
One more thing just to explain my system so you’re not confused.

When I mention me running 2C above ambient external temps that’s only during the summer months. Another reason why I run at night, because if it’s 18C outside at night I can control my temp in my room between 20C-28C due to the SMS fan speed controller.

It allows my fan to speed up and slow down based on the temp sensor within my room.

I set the controller more often than not to 24C during flowering.

By running my lights in the coolest part of the day 8pm-8am this allows my fan controller to do its job properly because I’m intaking cooler air and exhaust speed is controlled by the SMS controller.

The controller then speeds up or slows down to keep my desired temp.

When it gets really cold outside (winter) I block one or 2 intakes and use a tubular heater or dehumidifier for extra heat.
 
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