Red tape

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Why cat i just buy a driver without having to answer a million questions about shit that has nothing to do with my buying one? Guess I'll go to cobkits...
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Do you know what power level you're going to run them at?
Do you know which driver you want?
I know that I don't want to burn my plants up, so maybe inbetween 150-200,or would that be too much? Do I need to get a watt meter to make sure im not going too high? Im still such a noob!!!
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
IMO these are your best option to drive 2 288 boards.
Run the boards in series and use this.
https://www.findchips.com/search/HLG-240H-C2100
with the B version you can hook up a just a potentiometer or wire in a digital dimmer like this
https://www.amazon.com/Eforlighting-Dimmer-Switch-Controller-Potentiometer/dp/B071L9RG6M/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1531612989&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=10v+dimmer+dial

This will give you the ability to run both boards up to 75% total power. 107w per board max.

You could also use something like a HLG-185H-54B and run the boards in parallel.. but if you were to lose a board or one were to come unhooked, itll overdrive the shit out of the remaining board.
 

NothinYet

Active Member
Not if you have the voltage adjusted properly.
Please be more specific when telling people this. The voltage can only be adjusted on the a version of the drivers (eg hlg-185h-48a.) On the hlg-185h-48b or hlg-185-48 the voltage cannot be adjusted and it will run each board, strip, or cob harder until it reaches max. Risking thermal runaway.

Remember that folks, the a version can have a set voltage that will run each item in parallel at that voltage from starting with one item to as many as you can hook up until you reach max current. The more you hook up in parallel after you reach max current the current and voltage will start lowering until you reach the minimum CV voltage range of the driver. Once you drop below the voltage range of CV. It kicks into CC mode and has a wider range of voltage, until you add so many that it doesn't have enough amps to power the board, or drops out of the CC voltage range.

Not trying to flame you higgs, just trying to let people know this info.
 

NothinYet

Active Member
IMO these are your best option to drive 2 288 boards.
Run the boards in series and use this.
https://www.findchips.com/search/HLG-240H-C2100
with the B version you can hook up a just a potentiometer or wire in a digital dimmer like this
https://www.amazon.com/Eforlighting-Dimmer-Switch-Controller-Potentiometer/dp/B071L9RG6M/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1531612989&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=10v+dimmer+dial

This will give you the ability to run both boards up to 75% total power. 107w per board max.

You could also use something like a HLG-185H-54B and run the boards in parallel.. but if you were to lose a board or one were to come unhooked, itll overdrive the shit out of the remaining board.
@Frank Nitty The V1's use the 54 CV driver. The V2's use the 48 CV driver. Until you get up to the 480h on V2's. On this driver you can use either the 48 or 54 with the V2's, but you might not be able to hit the 2.8mA or higher mark, given the 1v tolerance.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
@Frank Nitty The V1's use the 54 CV driver. The V2's use the 48 CV driver. Until you get up to the 480h. On this driver you can use either the 48 or 54, but you might not be able to hit the 2.8mA or higher mark, given the 1v tolerance.
Ohhhhh!!! Something that I needed to know!!! That's why the v2 is better,if just by a little bit...The new lights can take more power...
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Please be more specific when telling people this. The voltage can only be adjusted on the a version of the drivers (eg hlg-185h-48a.) On the hlg-185h-48b or hlg-185-48 the voltage cannot be adjusted and it will run each board, strip, or cob harder until it reaches max. Risking thermal runaway.

Remember that folks, the a version can have a set voltage that will run each item in parallel at that voltage from starting with one item to as many as you can hook up until you reach max current. The more you hook up in parallel after you reach max current the current and voltage will start lowering until you reach the minimum CV voltage range of the driver. Once you drop below the voltage range of CV. It kicks into CC mode and has a wider range of voltage, until you add so many that it doesn't have enough amps to power the board, or drops out of the CC voltage range.

Not trying to flame you higgs, just trying to let people know this info.
Yeah, the A series have the voltage adjustment - thats why I prefer them for parallel setups. Sometimes I forget the B series don't have that feature.
 

NothinYet

Active Member
Yeah, the A series have the voltage adjustment - thats why I prefer them for parallel setups. Sometimes I forget the B series don't have that feature.
It's all good. I heard you say that in another topic and it confused me lol.

Ohhhhh!!! Something that I needed to know!!! That's why the v2 is better,if just by a little bit...The new lights can take more power...
Yes. And in some circumstances you can squeeze an third board on a driver. Ledgardner.com has a blog on it.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the A series have the voltage adjustment - thats why I prefer them for parallel setups. Sometimes I forget the B series don't have that feature.
Im gonna go with the 135w 288 kit and be done with it... If I want more, I'll just buy another one... Right now im gonna switch my lights around... I have a 300w Roleadro upgraded led to use in my tent with a scrog net... Im gonna use the qb in the cabinet on 2 plants in autopots... I need to hurry up and do it before things get out of hand... Feel me???1531692891535340640909.jpg
 
Top