Radiator theory under way to save Electricity.

Screaming trees

Screaming trees

Well-Known Member
I like a sealed room and I don't like air going out as I don't want the AC Units kicking on more often to replace the lost cool air being pumped out. I'd like be able to pump the hot air out from my HPS hoods and keep everything circulating in my sealed rooms. I get air exchange from all the times I come in and out and I've not noticed any breathing problems from any grows doing it this way so far. So I started tinkering with the idea of intercoolers on turbos. Long aluminum vent hoses stacked against the wall with a fan blowing on them has actually cooled the hot air down tremendously! This is prototype one and a quick mock up just to see if I should venture further with the idea of improving it. I believe I'm going to keep improving this idea and try putting a reducer on it from 6 inch to 4 inch so I can squeeze more vent hoses in to force the air to cool by the time it recirculates back around. I'll show actual temp differences as soon as I improve the design. Hopefully this will help save of electricity and be more efficient.
 

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sir

1 your room is not really sealed .........it has to have a intake point somewhere for fresh air to come in as the exhust is getting rid of the extra heat and used oxygen/co2

the only way to have a sealed room would cost alot of money.......1 u are going to need a Co2 scrubber to removed the used Co2....2 u are going to need a Co2 supply (natural air is somewhere in 150ppm .....indoor air can be 300 450 ppm naturally ....plants love 1000-1500 ppm ...1500ppm is toxic to us so working in the area with it that high needs a oxygen or cut it off and cycle the air in room )......3 u are going to need Oxygen supply for off hours

as for your Fin idea it will only even out the room faster.......when the AC is on it will pump it out and sink the fin cool the upper air heats there by just finding a middle/balance

your best bet would to be making a swamp cooler and hanging/setting it high so the hot air is intaken into cooled and dumped back out then it sinks cooling air too ................they sell something like this for cooling workshops and warehouses
 
Screaming trees said:
I like a sealed room and I don't like air going out as I don't want the AC Units kicking on more often to replace the lost cool air being pumped out. I'd like be able to pump the hot air out from my HPS hoods and keep everything circulating in my sealed rooms. I get air exchange from all the times I come in and out and I've not noticed any breathing problems from any grows doing it this way so far. So I started tinkering with the idea of intercoolers on turbos. Long aluminum vent hoses stacked against the wall with a fan blowing on them has actually cooled the hot air down tremendously! This is prototype one and a quick mock up just to see if I should venture further with the idea of improving it. I believe I'm going to keep improving this idea and try putting a reducer on it from 6 inch to 4 inch so I can squeeze more vent hoses in to force the air to cool by the time it recirculates back around. I'll show actual temp differences as soon as I improve the design. Hopefully this will help save of electricity and be more efficient.
Click to expand...

Just so I'm clear, you are using this to cool your lamp on the outside wall of your grow room right? If so, there is no need to keep it a closed circuit for your lamp once it exits the grow space. As long as the intake and exhaust air for your lamp is coming from and going to a place other than the grow area, yer fine. I run a cooling circuit for my lamps with intake air that can reach as high as 120F. As long as your ducts on that lamp circuit are tight, you won't be mixing the hot lamp air with your cooled grow room air. I also use insulated ducting for my lamps. It makes a big difference for me, especially on the exhaust side.


justugh said:
sir

1 your room is not really sealed .........it has to have a intake point somewhere for fresh air to come in as the exhust is getting rid of the extra heat and used oxygen/co2

the only way to have a sealed room would cost alot of money.......1 u are going to need a Co2 scrubber to removed the used Co2....2 u are going to need a Co2 supply (natural air is somewhere in 150ppm .....indoor air can be 300 450 ppm naturally ....plants love 1000-1500 ppm ...1500ppm is toxic to us so working in the area with it that high needs a oxygen or cut it off and cycle the air in room )......3 u are going to need Oxygen supply for off hours

as for your Fin idea it will only even out the room faster.......when the AC is on it will pump it out and sink the fin cool the upper air heats there by just finding a middle/balance

your best bet would to be making a swamp cooler and hanging/setting it high so the hot air is intaken into cooled and dumped back out then it sinks cooling air too ................they sell something like this for cooling workshops and warehouses
Click to expand...

Normally I would just ignore this, but it's chocked full of crap that does not need to be spread further. Sorry man.

There is no such thing as 'used CO2' and removing it with a scrubber is the most insane advice I've ever seen given on this website.
"Natural air" as measured by folks like NASA is in the range of 380ppm, not 150.
1500ppm of CO2 is FAAAR from toxic with humans. At levels of 1% (10,000ppm) some people become drowsy. 7-10% is the danger zone. There is no need to wear an O2 bottle when you open the door to a room with 1500ppm CO2. Now.. 1000ppm of constant exposure is bad. But nobody who uses CO2 lives in their grow space 24 hours a day. OSHA says you can spend an 8 hour workshift in 14,000ppm.
Oxygen supply for off hours? The 2nd most insane advice I've ever seen here. Do you have any idea how dangerous pure oxygen is to work with? Let alone, it's totally not needed at all.
 
justugh said:
sir

1 your room is not really sealed .........it has to have a intake point somewhere for fresh air to come in as the exhust is getting rid of the extra heat and used oxygen/co2

the only way to have a sealed room would cost alot of money.......1 u are going to need a Co2 scrubber to removed the used Co2....2 u are going to need a Co2 supply (natural air is somewhere in 150ppm .....indoor air can be 300 450 ppm naturally ....plants love 1000-1500 ppm ...1500ppm is toxic to us so working in the area with it that high needs a oxygen or cut it off and cycle the air in room )......3 u are going to need Oxygen supply for off hours

as for your Fin idea it will only even out the room faster.......when the AC is on it will pump it out and sink the fin cool the upper air heats there by just finding a middle/balance

your best bet would to be making a swamp cooler and hanging/setting it high so the hot air is intaken into cooled and dumped back out then it sinks cooling air too ................they sell something like this for cooling workshops and warehouses
Click to expand...

dude what are you talking about? used co2? plants breath in co2 and breathe out o2 the only thing on the plant that used o2 is the roots, basic science learned in the 3rd grade. more plants more oxygen nuff said.
 
u need to check your facts ...............plants use Co2 and put out oxygen they also put out Co2 during the off hours of the light .....the C02 they put off is bad Co2 it is not a form that plant can use it is waste product to them so it needs to be removed this is the same in the day light ............would u want your kid sitting in a pool of his own piss and then snorkling in it
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide

as for ppm 350 jeez u city folks got some bad air .............i am in the middle of farms and cows i know the rating for my area..........no wounder ppl in the city have so many lung troubles get out into the country (ppl are not ment to live like ants stacked ontop of each other so only part can see the sky)

as for the 1500ppm being toxic ..........u need to check your info again in city's in china even here have air alert days .......1500ppm is in the danger zone and even the state/goverement does not make ppl work in those lvls on those days ..................honsetly u will not die strait off but your blood oxygen lvls will decrease and if u do not notice intime u will pass out from this and then on the floor u are just sucking in Co2 with no air and death for u in 5 mins ......OSHA can suck my ass ...........i been in a room with 1200ppms after about 20 mins i was getting a head ache but i was doing a lot of work too so my oxygen was getting used up (in the blood stream)

if oxygen was so bad how can u explain home tank filling systems that use the oxygen in the air compress it and fills the tanks ..............any gas in a prue form can do damage in the wrong hands .........helium i can fill hundernts of 55 gallon trash bags and release them in a flight path of a airport )
 
if you can provide a credible link to something that says there are different types of co2 then i will retract my statement
 
Basically I can't have exhaust air or Inlet air. I go in and out of the rooms enough in the day that I get an exchange of air. Third grow and no troubles yet doing it this way. I'm just trying to cool it down a little more without my AC units staying on so much. It's extremely hot outside and inlet air defeats my purpose. I'm just trying to do the best I can with my situation. So I'd been thinking of ways to do it and I started thinking about turbo intercoolers and how they work. I just want to cool the air better that I'm pulling off my 4-600 watt hoods. I appreciate the advice. I didn't even know none of what y'all was talking bout. It's good to know that's for sure. Learn something everyday. :)
 
btw screaming trees your idea is pretty outstanding, and i think your right on the 4" possibly working better as theres a lot more surface area that can be cooled, also if you waterproofed behind and had a way to collect the water below you could put misters onto the outside to help cool it down even more. also try to bring the ducting off the wall so the air can travel behind it as well, maybe make a frame out of 1" or 2" pvc. thats how intercoolers work so well is air is able to travel the entire way around to cooling tubes
 
Hate to criticize your experiment, but I just have to say that is a shit HEAT EXCHANGER.

Plus your ideas are majorly flawed (if I'm interpreting them correctly.)

You should have your hoods sealed and run with high power centrifugal fan(s).

Intake can be from inside or outside. It doesn't matter if its a 130 degrees F outside, its still going to cool those lights.

The heat exchanger in another room is flawed for many reasons. First that duct is a poor heat exchanger, but it will exchange heat. Second all that heat will build up in that room, making that room less effective at heat exchange. Third I can't even comprehend how it could cool down in the slightest unless that rooms temperature differential was quite a bit. It stands to reason that since it's so hot out and you say it works decent, that you have some sort of air or central air conditioning in that room (which would be just silly.)

- Jiji
 
justugh said:
u need to check your facts ...............plants use Co2 and put out oxygen they also put out Co2 during the off hours of the light .....the C02 they put off is bad Co2 it is not a form that plant can use it is waste product to them so it needs to be removed this is the same in the day light ............would u want your kid sitting in a pool of his own piss and then snorkling in it
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide

as for ppm 350 jeez u city folks got some bad air .............i am in the middle of farms and cows i know the rating for my area..........no wounder ppl in the city have so many lung troubles get out into the country (ppl are not ment to live like ants stacked ontop of each other so only part can see the sky)

as for the 1500ppm being toxic ..........u need to check your info again in city's in china even here have air alert days .......1500ppm is in the danger zone and even the state/goverement does not make ppl work in those lvls on those days ..................honsetly u will not die strait off but your blood oxygen lvls will decrease and if u do not notice intime u will pass out from this and then on the floor u are just sucking in Co2 with no air and death for u in 5 mins ......OSHA can suck my ass ...........i been in a room with 1200ppms after about 20 mins i was getting a head ache but i was doing a lot of work too so my oxygen was getting used up (in the blood stream)

if oxygen was so bad how can u explain home tank filling systems that use the oxygen in the air compress it and fills the tanks ..............any gas in a prue form can do damage in the wrong hands .........helium i can fill hundernts of 55 gallon trash bags and release them in a flight path of a airport )
Click to expand...
PLEASE<STFU

 
justugh said:
u need to check your facts ...............plants use Co2 and put out oxygen they also put out Co2 during the off hours of the light .....the C02 they put off is bad Co2 it is not a form that plant can use it is waste product to them so it needs to be removed this is the same in the day light ............would u want your kid sitting in a pool of his own piss and then snorkling in it
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide

as for ppm 350 jeez u city folks got some bad air .............i am in the middle of farms and cows i know the rating for my area..........no wounder ppl in the city have so many lung troubles get out into the country (ppl are not ment to live like ants stacked ontop of each other so only part can see the sky)

as for the 1500ppm being toxic ..........u need to check your info again in city's in china even here have air alert days .......1500ppm is in the danger zone and even the state/goverement does not make ppl work in those lvls on those days ..................honsetly u will not die strait off but your blood oxygen lvls will decrease and if u do not notice intime u will pass out from this and then on the floor u are just sucking in Co2 with no air and death for u in 5 mins ......OSHA can suck my ass ...........i been in a room with 1200ppms after about 20 mins i was getting a head ache but i was doing a lot of work too so my oxygen was getting used up (in the blood stream)

if oxygen was so bad how can u explain home tank filling systems that use the oxygen in the air compress it and fills the tanks ..............any gas in a prue form can do damage in the wrong hands .........helium i can fill hundernts of 55 gallon trash bags and release them in a flight path of a airport )
Click to expand...

Jeez, where to start. CO2 is CO2. There is no questioning it. 380ppm is a GLOBAL measurement, not a city measurement. Air Quality Alerts work on far, far, FAR more than just CO2 levels. I personally know air quality engineers that issue these warnings. If you can't stand 20 minutes in 1200ppm CO2, then you likely have other health issues. As I said, OSHA won't bat an eye till it hits 14K.

You got one thing right out of this entire mess of a reply.. if you don't breathe 'air' for 5 minutes you will die. Astounding. But then, nobody is growing in 100% CO2 are they? More like .15% when you supplement CO2.

oh.. and on O2.. it's HIGHLY flammable and there is not a single reason to inject it into your grow room. One good spark near an O2 outlet and BOOM.

How do I explain home O2 units? Well.. it's for patients who need it. WTF kind of question is that? And guess what? They have warnings plastered ALL OVER THEM.

Seriously man.. stop spreading this crap.
 
jijiandfarmgang said:
Hate to criticize your experiment, but I just have to say that is a shit HEAT EXCHANGER.

Plus your ideas are majorly flawed (if I'm interpreting them correctly.)

You should have your hoods sealed and run with high power centrifugal fan(s).

Intake can be from inside or outside. It doesn't matter if its a 130 degrees F outside, its still going to cool those lights.

The heat exchanger in another room is flawed for many reasons. First that duct is a poor heat exchanger, but it will exchange heat. Second all that heat will build up in that room, making that room less effective at heat exchange. Third I can't even comprehend how it could cool down in the slightest unless that rooms temperature differential was quite a bit. It stands to reason that since it's so hot out and you say it works decent, that you have some sort of air or central air conditioning in that room (which would be just silly.)

- Jiji
Click to expand...
jijiandfarmgang said:
Hate to criticize your experiment, but I just have to say that is a shit HEAT EXCHANGER.

Plus your ideas are majorly flawed (if I'm interpreting them correctly.)

You should have your hoods sealed and run with high power centrifugal fan(s).

Intake can be from inside or outside. It doesn't matter if its a 130 degrees F outside, its still going to cool those lights.

The heat exchanger in another room is flawed for many reasons. First that duct is a poor heat exchanger, but it will exchange heat. Second all that heat will build up in that room, making that room less effective at heat exchange. Third I can't even comprehend how it could cool down in the slightest unless that rooms temperature differential was quite a bit. It stands to reason that since it's so hot out and you say it works decent, that you have some sort of air or central air conditioning in that room (which would be just silly.)

- Jiji
Click to expand...
It's just a mock up to see if there would be any cool down at all. I was curious so I dabbled with the idea and slapped some duct work up I had laying around and threw a fan on it. It worked believe it or not, lol. It's not industrial grade but it's a start :). And I totally see what your saying. I Was thinking bout doing it the way you said because my hoods are sealed. Blockbuster 6inch. Some ideas that people try to solve wind up becoming used for another purpose so who knows what this could be useful for in a different circumstance. Thanx for the input.
 
Last edited:
screediu said:
btw screaming trees your idea is pretty outstanding, and i think your right on the 4" possibly working better as theres a lot more surface area that can be cooled, also if you waterproofed behind and had a way to collect the water below you could put misters onto the outside to help cool it down even more. also try to bring the ducting off the wall so the air can travel behind it as well, maybe make a frame out of 1" or 2" pvc. thats how intercoolers work so well is air is able to travel the entire way around to cooling tubes
Click to expand...
Thanx man. I believe squeezing it down to four inch and slapping it between some fencing maybe?? Lol, I guess people here think I'm crazy. All Input is welcome. Build a better mouse trap :)
 
Screaming trees said:
Basically I can't have exhaust air or Inlet air. I go in and out of the rooms enough in the day that I get an exchange of air. Third grow and no troubles yet doing it this way. I'm just trying to cool it down a little more without my AC units staying on so much. It's extremely hot outside and inlet air defeats my purpose. I'm just trying to do the best I can with my situation. So I'd been thinking of ways to do it and I started thinking about turbo intercoolers and how they work. I just want to cool the air better that I'm pulling off my 4-600 watt hoods. I appreciate the advice. I didn't even know none of what y'all was talking bout. It's good to know that's for sure. Learn something everyday. :)
Click to expand...

Ok, so then doing it the way you are is actually less efficient. Ideally, you would pull outdoor air to cool your bulbs and then exhaust back outside. That's how I do it. A heat exchanger just complicates things.
 
Glaucoma said:
Ok, so then doing it the way you are is actually less efficient. Ideally, you would pull outdoor air to cool your bulbs and then exhaust back outside. That's how I do it. A heat exchanger just complicates things.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. I wonder if you done something like this in the winter time if it would help distribute heat evenly across a grow area?? Or even wrapping the vents underneath a table of young babies instead of a heat mat. Kind of like radiant heating in floors. Hmmm, what cha think? :)
I love being open minded. It's like a think tank. Thanks for the ideas people.
 
Last edited:
Screaming trees said:
Thanks for the input. I wonder if you done something like this in the winter time if it would help distribute heat evenly across a grow area?? Or even wrapping the vents underneath a table of young babies instead of a heat mat. Kind of like radiant heating in floors. Hmmm, what cha think? :)
I love being open minded. It's like a think tank. Thanks for the ideas people.
Click to expand...

I use the hood as a heat mat for clones. =)

The only time I ever add heat is with the lights off during the coldest weeks in winter.. which isn't long where I am. I regulate temps in the winter when the lights are on by using a thermostat hooked up to an exhaust fan. "Spreading" the heat as you described it really isn't necessary. if you have a fan running in your space (which you should), then it'll mix all that warmth up pretty effectively.
 
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