i'd use square pails not round buckets. less chance of a fitting leaking on a flat vs round surface
2" moves more water=better results. the faster you can move the oxygenated water the better.
UC is not rocket science. a 2" is always better than 1" pvc. and a uniseal will always work better on a flat vs round surface.This is not necessarily true one has to figure all the gear that is going to be used ,, figure out head pressure , resistance loss pressure and so on for every foot of pipe there is loss friction so many factors are involved and what many forget to work on for 100 percent efficiency flow etc angles everything has to be really figured out
Well i dont have the pump picked out yet, but i do have 1 inch bulk head fittings and haves used them before with fish safe silcone before and never had a leak. Just trying to avoid buying more material, if what i have would work.
I know there are cheaper ways other then bulkhead fittings, but for me they are much better in ways of leak proofing.
I dont grow trees with this setup and dont plan on having get taller then 4-5 feet before harvest.
I know bigger is better, but would this be ample.
Think about feet of head. the number of feet of water depth determines the water pressure. So 80 feet of water depth equals a pressure of 80 ft. hd. This pressure will be the same regardless of the pipe size. The water pressure at the bottom of an 80′ high 1/2″ pipe is exactly the same as the water pressure at the bottom of an 80′ high 6″ pipe, even though the 6″ pipe holds a lot more water. A pump actually works by creating water pressure. So for the pump there is no difference between pumping into either size pipe, the water pressure required to move the water into the bottom of both pipes is the same. Now the pressure lost as water moves through the two pipes will be different. Assuming a high rate of flow, a lot more pressure will be lost due to friction in the smaller pipe. So for that reason using a larger pipe will be better. Depending on the flow, however, it may be only very marginally better. To find out you need to calculate the friction loss in the outlet pipe based on the flow and pipe size.
i like 2 pump systems where you can service a pump whlle other is online and vice versa also its more efficient to the op get in line pumps not submersibles that will create water heat
So look, this guy named Heath Robinson was doing the very same RDWC thing ten years ago, only he ran top feed into hydroton in netpots over water in tubs or buckets. It worked then (he's a bit of a legend, grew monsters) and it works now- and it's much simpler; right off the bat, you can lose the air pump, airstones and lines! Yep, they're totally unnecessary... Next, make a manifold that constantly runs water thru your netpots full of hydroton. Hook your pump up to that, and drop the pump into the 'epicenter', aka control bucket, and put your cold coil in there, too. DONE. Now go grow some fuckin' trees already, willya?!
This, RDWC is much simpler to setup than a UCDWC. Personally I skipped hydroton(no media at all actually) and used misters for a pseudo aeroponic setup.
Looking at making a under current system for my 4-6 bucket grow.
Is there any issue I may have with using 1 inch pipes rather then 2 inch? I am also using 5 gallon buckets vs 8 gallon.
Thanks as always for advice.
Oh boy is it ever easier, because one inch bulkheads fit one inch FLEXIBLE tubing! No more PVC pipes to cut and fit!
The hydroton is there for the watering and for the roots to hold onto something. It is reusable indefinitely, I barely even bother to rinse it.
I don't run mister style systems as I hate clogs.