Quick Question about Flushing
- Thread starter Weedler
- Start date
student121
Well-Known Member
reggaerican
Well-Known Member
some people will say "no" not to ph while flushing, but if your tap ph is real high then it will affect the ph of your next watering as well..
beter be safe then sorry and always! ph your water..
beter be safe then sorry and always! ph your water..
Cali.Grown>408
Well-Known Member
done it plenty of times without ph'in the water lol you guys think all these big growers ph gallons and gallons of water?? lol thats funny and a waste of time
Cali.Grown>408
Well-Known Member
flushing is to get ur PPMS in your soil down below 200 for a cleaner smoother smoke and at the same time it FORCES your plants to use all of its stored energy
reggaerican
Well-Known Member
i hear you man for a final flush its not necessary since you will be cutting right away and ph stress will not be an issue..
but for a mid way flush or monthly like i do its still good idea to use phed water...
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
I even PH the water I spray on my plants daily and PH the water in my humidifier, better safe than sorry! I think I am gonna flush with Flora-Kleen from GH.
Flo Grow
Well-Known Member
A big commercial grower that only cares about the bottom dollar isn't going to give a damn about PH or PPM's when flushing.
For example : Classic Brick Weed/Mids from down south.....WAY down south
A big commercial grower that cares about making that scrilla AND wants his shit to be on everybody's tongue when talking about dank in the streets, WILL flush with proper PH AND PPM's.
For example : MOST of the dank I've smoked back home in L.A., Orange, San Diego, Riverside and San Bernardino counties, Cali for the last +25yrs of my almost 45yrs of life.
I, personally, put a lot a time, money, energy, and emotion into growing for my Mom, myself and a handful of friends that I GIVE shit to.
I most def don't want that to be wasted effort on some dank that I pussy footed on because I CHOSE to half ass.
ALL my shit is PH'd at 5.8 (5.7 - 5.9 mostly) and PPM'd on point and remains stable.
Some ppl don't have stable environments, and that's unfortunate too.
The point of the numbers, PH's and PPM's, being researched and shared is to allow you to grow THE best possible marijuana you can.
If you don't want to be "precise", that's your choice.
If you don't want it to be as perfectly grown as possible, that's your choice.
But don't call it a waste of time, even if it just happens to be the case for you.
That's an insult to the intelligence of every person that put time and hard work into getting this info to growers over the years and to all the breeders/growers that have come, are still here and are yet to arrive.
Bottom line is this :
The BEST ph for MJ IS 5.8 ! THE MOST NUTE UPTAKE IS ONLY OBTAINED AT THIS SINGLE NUMBER IN HYDROPONICS ! Diff number for soil/soilless !!
The MAX ppm's for your plant is when the VERY TIPS of your fan leaves just BEGIN to brown !
The BEST flush for MJ is PLAIN H2O ph'd at 5.8 (explained above) and ppm's LESS than 50 !
If you feed seedlings w/ ppm's of 100 - 250+ (some/most tap H2O) as a rule of thumb, why would you essentially "feed" a plant you are trying to flush or rid of it's chemical elements !?
The idea is to allow the most perfect PH (5.
for the plants to eat/uptake it's remaining stored resources (nutes) so as to have as LITTLE as possible remaining when you harvest.
This can't be properly done if there's nutes being locked out/unable to be used.
Left over nutes lead to harsh smoke.
Dark/black ash left over after smoking a bowl.
Crackling and popping while smoking a bowl.
A properly flushed plant IS NOT green at harvest !!
It's 75%+ faded in color with leaves that are yellows, pinks, purples, lime greens and even violets depending on the strain and season/climate.
Those faded colors mean the plant WAS NOT giving enough food/nutes to sustain it, so it had to eat "itself" basically by using up it's supply in the leaves and stems/branches.
This is correct flushing.
The choice is always up to the grower.
For example : Classic Brick Weed/Mids from down south.....WAY down south
A big commercial grower that cares about making that scrilla AND wants his shit to be on everybody's tongue when talking about dank in the streets, WILL flush with proper PH AND PPM's.
For example : MOST of the dank I've smoked back home in L.A., Orange, San Diego, Riverside and San Bernardino counties, Cali for the last +25yrs of my almost 45yrs of life.
I, personally, put a lot a time, money, energy, and emotion into growing for my Mom, myself and a handful of friends that I GIVE shit to.
I most def don't want that to be wasted effort on some dank that I pussy footed on because I CHOSE to half ass.
ALL my shit is PH'd at 5.8 (5.7 - 5.9 mostly) and PPM'd on point and remains stable.
Some ppl don't have stable environments, and that's unfortunate too.
The point of the numbers, PH's and PPM's, being researched and shared is to allow you to grow THE best possible marijuana you can.
If you don't want to be "precise", that's your choice.
If you don't want it to be as perfectly grown as possible, that's your choice.
But don't call it a waste of time, even if it just happens to be the case for you.
That's an insult to the intelligence of every person that put time and hard work into getting this info to growers over the years and to all the breeders/growers that have come, are still here and are yet to arrive.
Bottom line is this :
The BEST ph for MJ IS 5.8 ! THE MOST NUTE UPTAKE IS ONLY OBTAINED AT THIS SINGLE NUMBER IN HYDROPONICS ! Diff number for soil/soilless !!
The MAX ppm's for your plant is when the VERY TIPS of your fan leaves just BEGIN to brown !
The BEST flush for MJ is PLAIN H2O ph'd at 5.8 (explained above) and ppm's LESS than 50 !
If you feed seedlings w/ ppm's of 100 - 250+ (some/most tap H2O) as a rule of thumb, why would you essentially "feed" a plant you are trying to flush or rid of it's chemical elements !?
The idea is to allow the most perfect PH (5.
for the plants to eat/uptake it's remaining stored resources (nutes) so as to have as LITTLE as possible remaining when you harvest.This can't be properly done if there's nutes being locked out/unable to be used.
Left over nutes lead to harsh smoke.
Dark/black ash left over after smoking a bowl.
Crackling and popping while smoking a bowl.
A properly flushed plant IS NOT green at harvest !!
It's 75%+ faded in color with leaves that are yellows, pinks, purples, lime greens and even violets depending on the strain and season/climate.
Those faded colors mean the plant WAS NOT giving enough food/nutes to sustain it, so it had to eat "itself" basically by using up it's supply in the leaves and stems/branches.
This is correct flushing.
The choice is always up to the grower.
dbkick
Well-Known Member
A big commercial grower that only cares about the bottom dollar isn't going to give a damn about PH or PPM's when flushing.
For example : Classic Brick Weed/Mids from down south.....WAY down south
A big commercial grower that cares about making that scrilla AND wants his shit to be on everybody's tongue when talking about dank in the streets, WILL flush with proper PH AND PPM's.
For example : MOST of the dank I've smoked back home in L.A., Orange, San Diego, Riverside and San Bernardino counties, Cali for the last +25yrs of my almost 45yrs of life.
I, personally, put a lot a time, money, energy, and emotion into growing for my Mom, myself and a handful of friends that I GIVE shit to.
I most def don't want that to be wasted effort on some dank that I pussy footed on because I CHOSE to half ass.
ALL my shit is PH'd at 5.8 (5.7 - 5.9 mostly) and PPM'd on point and remains stable.
Some ppl don't have stable environments, and that's unfortunate too.
The point of the numbers, PH's and PPM's, being researched and shared is to allow you to grow THE best possible marijuana you can.
If you don't want to be "precise", that's your choice.
If you don't want it to be as perfectly grown as possible, that's your choice.
But don't call it a waste of time, even if it just happens to be the case for you.
That's an insult to the intelligence of every person that put time and hard work into getting this info to growers over the years and to all the breeders/growers that have come, are still here and are yet to arrive.
Bottom line is this :
The BEST ph for MJ IS 5.8 ! THE MOST NUTE UPTAKE IS ONLY OBTAINED AT THIS SINGLE NUMBER IN HYDROPONICS ! Diff number for soil/soilless !!
The MAX ppm's for your plant is when the VERY TIPS of your fan leaves just BEGIN to brown !
The BEST flush for MJ is PLAIN H2O ph'd at 5.8 (explained above) and ppm's LESS than 50 !
If you feed seedlings w/ ppm's of 100 - 250+ (some/most tap H2O) as a rule of thumb, why would you essentially "feed" a plant you are trying to flush or rid of it's chemical elements !?
The idea is to allow the most perfect PH (5.
This can't be properly done if there's nutes being locked out/unable to be used.
Left over nutes lead to harsh smoke.
Dark/black ash left over after smoking a bowl.
Crackling and popping while smoking a bowl.
A properly flushed plant IS NOT green at harvest !!
It's 75%+ faded in color with leaves that are yellows, pinks, purples, lime greens and even violets depending on the strain and season/climate.
Those faded colors mean the plant WAS NOT giving enough food/nutes to sustain it, so it had to eat "itself" basically by using up it's supply in the leaves and stems/branches.
This is correct flushing.
The choice is always up to the grower.
This is all nice that you think you are actually doing something in ph'ing flush water but I don't think its accurate, nutrient lockout occurs in the roots, once the chemicals are in the plants there is no lockout. In locking out chemicals during flush what do you suppose that does? So in my opinion if anything flushing with water thats ph'd out of range does nothing but help in flushing.
Cali.Grown>408
Well-Known Member
4sure i agree..but i dont do it..i just guess my ph..got pretty good at it
Cali.Grown>408
Well-Known Member
do u ph the water U drink as well lol
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
Flo Grow
Well-Known Member
Nute lockout occurs in the MEDIUM first, which is water in this case.
It begins and ends with the medium, long before the plant can utilize any nutes.
If it can't upake that it needs in the PROPER ph range FROM the medium, it will lock out and/or die.
Do diff with flushing.
It's needs to be able to effectively harness those nutes to use and get rid of them AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
If the ph range is out of wack, the proper osmosis, mitosis and etc won't occur because the conditons aren't ideal.
Granted we are growing a weed, so it's a fighter and really doesn't need to be baby sat.
You obviously never realized that we are a different form of life than plants and therefore are not subject to all the same woes nor are we as sensitive.
Although something tells me you might prove the last part of that statement to be incorrect.
If you are happy with your dank, then you did a good job !
If others are not AS happy, be humble and not full of pride, listen to them.
Maybe they know what they are talking about too.
We are all here to learn, and that doesn't end until you die !!
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
I heard Flo can part the water in his reservoir... Very similar to Moses.
