Quantum grow update

ChaosHunter

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Hello all, just a small update on my test grow so far and the pics don't lie. Two short ryder autos while I get everything dialed in. The first pic was taken on the 16th and the other just now the 24th.

I'm running at 100w total for both boards "no optics". The reflective walls and floor seem to act as the optics kicking light everywhere. They are both starting to flower and asking if I should leave it at 100w or raise it at some point ?

Both plants are dark green all the way down to the first single true leaf. Getting lots of side lighting and little to no shading.
 

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ChaosHunter said:
@robincnn How efficient am I running with two boards at 100w ? Using a 120-1400 driver. Is there any point in turning up from 100W to say 125W or more ?
Click to expand...
HLG 120 does not have much room for voltage on these boards. HLG-120 could be running between 130-180 Watts depending on board voltage and board temperatures and driver type A/B
Older boards were running close to 180 watts on 120 Type A
Newer batch has a slightly higher voltage and gives 130 watts cold on Type A. As it warms up it could get near 150 Watts.
So i am not sure what wattage you at. Can wattage and if you over 150W you should have plenty of power.

at 100 watts should be between 53% efficiency at board level.

I am using 2 boards in series with HLG-240-1050. Gives me plenty of headroom. in my 2x2.5 i get 1250 ppfd at canopy at max 260watts. I run at at about 50%-60% Power. So 100W per board in a 2 board setup is more than enough in a small tent.
 
Roger that, so 50W per sq foot then. HLG-120H-C1400A diver in Parallel. I have the light setup independent of the driver as the driver gets warmer than the board/heatsinks themselves. I do have the diver/lights plugged into a Kill A Watt to measure the Wattage at the wall, also can adjust the pot inside of the driver up and down "Is this ok for me to do this?" I think my max Watt with this diver turned up was 180W at the wall, I may be off and will test it when the lights turn on.

I only have a cheap light intensity meter to get me close and that's ok. So far the plants are enjoying the Photons =0)
 
ChaosHunter said:
...I have the light setup independent of the driver as the driver gets warmer than the board/heatsinks themselves...
Click to expand...

Glad to hear you're moving the driver away.

The driver produces heat. So does the board. From a thermal management perspective, it doesn't make any sense to take your two heaters and bolt them together. Each device should be positioned for maximum heat dissipation. Move them away from each other!

And from a Murphy's Law perspective, it makes no sense to hang that heavy driver right over your plants. You guys know what I mean. To paraphrase Murphy: "Everything that hangs above your plants can come crashing down into your plants, and at the worst possible moment."
 
Yes you can adjust the current in type A driver as needed.
50W/sqft is a lot of light with this board or any new est gen big cobs. Not an expert grower but I would start dimmed to 30w/sqft and increase based on plants response
 
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Its nice to know its there :fire: I turned it up to 11 and it tops at 190W to the wall. Dialing it down to 100W-120W gives plenty of light for these little fast autos. Light cycle is 20/4 and has given the Quantum's and driver a good workout lol. Steller stuff and I'm not chasing temps, everything is on autopilot outside of watering and a few clicks on the light hangers.

Without the driver attached to the lights. The light build is not heavy enough to pull/click the light hangers by the ropes (:. At most the whole light only weighs 2 pounds if that.
 
ChaosHunter said:
The light build is not heavy enough to pull/click the light hangers by the ropes (:.
Click to expand...

Chaos, what did you mean by this sentence? You don't have the rope running backwards through your ratchets, do you? Maybe you were kidding. Or maybe I'm just being too literal...
 
Mellodrama said:
Chaos, what did you mean by this sentence? You don't have the rope running backwards through your ratchets, do you? Maybe you were kidding. Or maybe I'm just being too literal...
Click to expand...

The light setup is just too light for the hangers. I guess I could reverse the way I have them and have the ratchets on the top bar of the tent, I just didn't want to reach up there every time I wanted to raise and lower the light. The way it is now if I lift on the rope it just lifts the light and doesn't ratchet.
 
It's not so much where you put the ratchet. And I agree with you, it's much more convenient with the ratchets at the light instead of way up in the corners. What I mean is, did you lace the rope thru the ratchets backwards? If you can push down on a corner of the light and make the ratchet start clicking, the rope is laced thru backwards. The ratchet should lock down dead stop with downforce on your lightframe, and only click when you pull on the loose end of the rope.

Unless you don't have ratchets that audibly click? I've got a couple of neat little winches that rely on a simple camming effect to stop the rope. Maybe you have something similar?

Anyways, I just wanted to make sure. It's easy to lace 'em backwards. I've done it once or twice but realized my error at some point.

As mentioned above, Murphy's Law. I prefer four ratchets. One at each corner. Cheap insurance.
 
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