pot roast, help i have root rot. im growing in hydro under a 1000w hps on a light mover, i built a 4x8ft tray out of plywood and 2x4s. i lined it with plastic and it drains into a 30 gal res. i just got root rot on my plants. im growing in hydroton balls in 6 inch baskets. the light and water are on a 12/12 schedule. the baskets sit in the 4x8 foot tray. i am going to raise the plants so the baskets are not sitting in the water which i think may have helped create the root rot problem. how big a basket of hydroton is needed to grow in a hydro system? is 6 inches enough? the grow room is always 80 degrees when the light is on. is there an additive i can used to help prevent root rot. one of the members recommended hrygozyme but im in central america and cant find any of that product. will the root rot spread to the other plants? should i kill all the affected plants? i repotted the plants that had it after trimming off the sick roots bu am not sure if it will come back. thank for any advice you can lend. you seem to have a better understanding of hydro growing than anyone else on the board. i know your busy but please take a minute and try to point me in the right direction, thx in advance, rm
pot roast can you answer a few questions
- Thread starter ratman
- Start date
im not really set up to flood the table. im growing in the little round hydroton balls and have drippers that drip the water/nute solution over the roots while the lights are running. should i put the pumps on a timer and run 4 half hour cycles thoughout the 12 hour light schedule?
smppro
Well-Known Member
You want the drippers to run the same as the flood would, once for about 30min every 4hrs while lights are on and 1 time while lights are off. This should give the clay pebbles enough time to dry so oxygen gets to the roots. Since your running drip the room temp wont matter to much and 80 is fine. You can prevent root rot by not over watering which is what you were doing, once you fix your watering cycle root rot shouldnt be an issue. I know h2o2(hydrogen peroxide) like mentioned above works, but you should search on that more specific.
I know hydrogen peroxide works well for root rot becuase I've used it before. also, I really don't think you should be cutting roots off durning flowering because stress durning the flower phase can cause them to go hermi. . . By the way, how far into flowering are you? You may also want to cover your pots with some sorta poly/mylar because roots exposed to light have a tendency to rot. You may also want to boil your clay balls in water to kill anything unwanted before you plant something in them, same goes for the pots.
what's your pump setup? that looks like some serious main line, 2-inch? What kind of ferts/nutes are you using?
next grow you may also want to Fim and tie, did you cut any clones? sorry for all the questions, I'd just like to help you get the best from your plants.
what's your pump setup? that looks like some serious main line, 2-inch? What kind of ferts/nutes are you using?
next grow you may also want to Fim and tie, did you cut any clones? sorry for all the questions, I'd just like to help you get the best from your plants.
Mcgician
Well-Known Member
Do you have an air stone in your resevoir? What's the temp of it? The higher the temperature rises in your resevoir, the less available oxygen there is for the plants. Think of it like a beer. This is most likely your cause for the root rot. If you can't get the temp down in the res, make sure it has plently of oxygenation. This can be done with air pumps/stones or a recirculating pump that pumps water from top to bottom making bubbles. There are a variety of products out there that will help you with root rot, but for me, H2O2 would be the last choice for myself. Dutch master makes a product called Zone which keeps the root area clean, and has worked extremely well for me. It or something like it should part of your regular nutrient/supplement solution.
im running two air pumps and two water pumps in my res with flapper check valves on the pumps so if one pumps pukes while im at the beach or something the other will feed the plants no problem. i caught the root root late so the plants i trimmed the root on looked like crap for 4/5 weeks into flower, i figured best to get them out of the 4x8 ft trey to make sure the pthers didn't get sick that are looking good. all the plants there were planted within a week of each other one week of veg and straight to flower. i have forty more clones to put in the tray. i am getting the clones ready for full strength nutes in these tupperware buckets i made that have their own air and water pumps and timers. i give em a week in 24 hours with cfl's in the buckets then put em on 12/12 1000w hps. im running foxfarms nutes for now that i brought to central america from the states but the aholes at tsa inspected my friends bags and took all my nutes. there is one hrdro shop here with one line of nutes the owner makes dont know how well the new stuff will work. know of any dry nutes i could ship down here. shipping gallons of liquid nutes might cost an arm and a leg. i will get a themometer to check the res temp in the morning. thanks so much for all your help everybody. i have alaskan ice, durban poison, white widow, sweet dreams, bubblicious, bc big bud, ice, and purps going on right now. i cut 4 clones off of each of these and did it 3 weeks into flower, had 100% success with the clones. then took the healthiest clones for mothers. i think i can get 60 plants in my 4x8 foot trey we will see. lol
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i will try to have some dutch mater zone shipped down to me. thx
SpruceZeus
Well-Known Member
H202 (hydrogen peroxide)at an appropriate dose, is the answer to your problems.
Oh! Another Dutch Master user 
My next indoor grow starts this weekend and I'm going all out with a full line of dutch masters. I'll PM you my supplier for the dutch master nutrients I'm sure they wont mind shipping it.
Your clones look really nice, if you're not in a hurry spend an extra 2-3 weeks and Fim and tie them. Go for the 2 pounds + per light!
My next indoor grow starts this weekend and I'm going all out with a full line of dutch masters. I'll PM you my supplier for the dutch master nutrients I'm sure they wont mind shipping it. Your clones look really nice, if you're not in a hurry spend an extra 2-3 weeks and Fim and tie them. Go for the 2 pounds + per light!
Oh! Another Dutch Master user
Your clones look really nice, if you're not in a hurry spend an extra 2-3 weeks and Fim and tie them. Go for the 2 pounds + per light!
what do you mean by Fim and tie them?? thx
Fiming and topping are types of pruning. Tying is something you can do too but more of a LST (Low stress training) When you tie a plants new shoots down it promotes new growth at the top of the plant resulting in more shoot development. These technique are known as "super cropping", but require you to keep the plant in the the vegetative growth phase longer.
