PLEASE HELP!! Before I shoot myself!!

Hello all

Could somebody please help me sort my kalashnikova plant out please, she seems very sick and im banging my head against a brick wall over this.

Take a look and see if you can tell me what this is please;



Ok so this started about 2 weeks ago with what you can see in the first picture. After asking around it looked like nutrient burn or lockout due to my ph drifting a little high (6.8, 6.9) so I did a 5 day flush and kept a very close eye on the ph but the problem is just getting worse.

The brown rust like spots have moved from the first set of leaves all the way up to the third and it looks like its getting worse. Im seriously considering just scrapping it and starting again but any help would be appreciated.

Conditions:

20l DWC Bucket
400w hps (correct distance away)
Advanced Nutrients Sensi A & B (@ 1ml per litre so 1/4 strength)
temps 25 - 28 degrees
Humidity - unknown as i dropped my meter a week back
Green House Seeds - Kalashnikova (AK47 x White Widow).

any toughts guys??

if you wasnt giving it anything for 5 days that you flushed it my thought would be that it needs nutes you only needed to swap the water no need to keep it without nutes for 5 days? that my guess anyways id like to see what others think.... i think if the ph was high before and it was locking out nutes and then not giving it no nutes would proberly of made it worse but i dont know im just helping by guessing lol..

give it nutrients again, keep your nutrient solution as cool as possible(below 65F)...that will increase the speed at which your PH goes up...nutrients bring your PH down, time+heat brings it back up, you have to continually add some ph down over the course of a week or two(depending on when you do complete changes) to keep your PH down at 5.8 Do not let it get too high, monitor it daily, apply a few drops of ph down, test, repeat...also add a teaspoon of h202(hydrogen peroxide) to your reservoir to keep root rot away. You can correct this, you just have to pay attention and monitor things

sincl9759 said:

if you wasnt giving it anything for 5 days that you flushed it my thought would be that it needs nutes you only needed to swap the water no need to keep it without nutes for 5 days? that my guess anyways id like to see what others think.... i think if the ph was high before and it was locking out nutes and then not giving it no nutes would proberly of made it worse but i dont know im just helping by guessing lol..

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Hi

I was feeding her quarter strength nutes from 1 weeks after germ so i thought it was nute burn or over feeding so that when i gave her the 5 day flush so i doubt its that, if anything its gotten worse after giving nutes again.

massah said:

give it nutrients again, keep your nutrient solution as cool as possible(below 65F)...that will increase the speed at which your PH goes up...nutrients bring your PH down, time+heat brings it back up, you have to continually add some ph down over the course of a week or two(depending on when you do complete changes) to keep your PH down at 5.8 Do not let it get too high, monitor it daily, apply a few drops of ph down, test, repeat...also add a teaspoon of h202(hydrogen peroxide) to your reservoir to keep root rot away. You can correct this, you just have to pay attention and monitor things

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I check the ph twice a day as it is, once first thing in the morning, once when i get home an normaly its gone up by about 0.2-0.4 each time. I change my res weekly but dont have a temp checker for the res.

she is on bloom nutes now and the growth seems back, to be honest im hopin ive sorted it but if the problem hits the next set of leaves up shes coming out and ill start another kalashnikova again as im not entirely convinced the seed was spot on in the first place, if you check my sig you can see her from seed to 22 days, there was whitening on the tips of the firdt leaf set from the start under a cfl with no nutes....hmmmm strange no???

dont shoot yourself. that lowers the chances of successful future grows.

0blivious... this is only the start of your problems...

N) Nitrogen (P) Phosphorus (K) Potassium are the 3 ultimate key elements.
your plants are lacking :- (P) Phosphorous (K) Potassium (Ca) Calcium, Zinc, Boron and Manganese.

the(N) nitrogen and (MG) magnesium they are getting giving them a nice dark leaf.

you MUST get that ph down to 5.8 it is imperative to your plants survival. if you do this you will see them prosper if you do not they will die.
you must then give them a full nutrient supplement diet and they will go growth crazy with the correct lighting.

check out the hydro/aqua part of the chart forget the terra part.

you will have to keep your nutrient reservoir at the exact temperature (18c 66f give or take a little).
to minimise ph fluctuations which you must check every 8 hours 3 times daily.
even more if you are having ph problems.

because you are growing in water it is easier to pinpoint the missing nutrients than when in soil unless the soil is neutral nutrient free.

now pop that gun in the rubbish bin and be a good lad eh and buy a floating glass thermometer they are only the price of a pint of good ale.!
and remember, never add nutrients then check and adjust water that has not sat for 24 hours before adding to your tank, if you do, the chemicals added to the water to protect our health will attack any good bacteria that is building up in your plant structure, do not use rain water, it is full of nasty chemical elements from millions of vehicle/jet exhausts that it collects on the way down.

au revoir.

Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.

View attachment 1851304
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.

fssalaska said:

View attachment 1851303
Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.

View attachment 1851304
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.

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fssalaska....

pic 1
these young plants are suffering from a lack of oxygen at the root base, add hydrogen peroxide to the nutrient solution at 3ml per litre and that will solve the problem.

pic 2
give these young plants half nutrients for 2 weeks at exactly ph 6.5 at 18c-66f then full nutrients after this period.

Voila.

from what i have read your PH is not supposed to be any lower than 5.8 and no higher than 6.2 (with a hydroponics setup) anything out of those ranges will for sure damage your plants. i would get your PH issue figured out and see where that takes you, you said above that it was getting up to 6.8,6.9 wich is extremely high, once you get your PH balanced add the nutes again and you probally will see some posotive results.

never have grown in hydro so im no expert but i have seen the 5.8-6.2 no higher or lower quite a few times so im assuming it is about correct.

hope i could help, good luck man let us know how you make ou

matthebrute said:

from what i have read your PH is not supposed to be any lower than 5.8 and no higher than 6.2 (with a hydroponics setup) anything out of those ranges will for sure damage your plants. i would get your PH issue figured out and see where that takes you, you said above that it was getting up to 6.8,6.9 wich is extremely high, once you get your PH balanced add the nutes again and you probally will see some posotive results.

never have grown in hydro so im no expert but i have seen the 5.8-6.2 no higher or lower quite a few times so im assuming it is about correct.

hope i could help, good luck man let us know how you make ou

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with ph6.2 you will miss :-

(K) Potassium, (Ca) Calcium, (Mn) Manganese, (Fe) Iron, and (B) Boron.

ive never seen leaves get the spots they do from overwatering ....but im no expert at hydro i have grown hydro got the same spots on my leaves and was due to a nute lockout not overwatering theyll droop if overwatered

fssalaska said:

And thats what you think ? telling others there wrong really makes you look like a ass dude..

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0calli said:

ive never seen leaves get the spots they do from overwatering ....but im no expert at hydro i have grown hydro got the same spots on my leaves and was due to a nute lockout not overwatering theyll droop if overwatered

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Exactly.....the ones that fssalaska is showing us are lacking oxygen at the root base while the roots are constantly in water, hydrogen peroxide, (liquid oxygen) will solve this problem, and solve the drooping issues.

0calli said:

ive never seen leaves get the spots they do from overwatering ....but im no expert at hydro i have grown hydro got the same spots on my leaves and was due to a nute lockout not overwatering theyll droop if overwatered

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i know, because i grow.

WeeGogs said:

i know, because i grow.

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You grow ? no shit, lmao Me to for the last 10 years.

fssalaska said:

You grow ? no shit, lmao Me to for the last 10 years.

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you couldnt grow a fucking moustache, why give out the wrong info, his ph is too high, so stop talking shite.

his ph is around 6.8 - 6.9 what does that tell you then brain.

it tells you his plants are locking out :-

(P) Phosphorous (K) Potassium (Ca) Calcium, (Fe) Zinc, (B) Boron and (Mn) Manganese.

he is catching (N) Nitrogen and (Mg) magnesium.

the chart at the bottom is the proof in the pudding for all the members on riu to see.

i dont talk drivel like you.

0blivious said:

Hello all

Could somebody please help me sort my kalashnikova plant any toughts guys??

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Do not make any drastic changes. Check the ph of your
nutrients and adjust slowly to correct the problem. Adding an air stone to your tank is not a drastic change too much hydrogenperoxide IS. Learn to use the tools you have to learn not to start at the same point and get the same results. All the flaming about high priced nutrients is personal experience and preference. I use Miracle Gro from Walmart $4.94 1.5lb. for everything even a floating hydro seed start. <<<Forgot to ckeck my cantaloupes today. The more changes you make the more your plants have to adjust. I cut a cantaloupe washed the seeds soaked like starting sprouts. Once I had germination I had too many so started 1/2 gal floating hrdro until I could put outside. No air stone just topped with weak nutrients. When I did make changes none of my plants reacted positively 7.4ph county water from the start. Water cycle and nutrients made all the difference not 0.4ph difference, I should ph my rain to see what they get now that the latter rains are here.

What kind of water are you using? My first hydro grow looked like that. It was because I was using tap water.

Um why is this guy making res tanks with nutes and no ppm meter, first of id love to hear the exact ppms and how many times hes dumping the res for a new one etc etc More the hard facts of hydro first, is it eating nutes, dose the ppm of the res lower over tim, looks easy to solve if you just get the variables right. Peace

well i had the same problem and i couldnt figure out what was wrong so it kept getting worse but finally i changed its medium and it got better. not sure what cured it, maybe it had nute lockout or just didnt like my soil but now its thriving.