Plant stress due to transplant...HELP!

kmo8762

kmo8762

Well-Known Member
I've got two 1month old plants that I transplanted yesterday, I know to expect some stress from the disturbance but what I'd like to know what is a normal reaction and how long does it usually take for them to recover? Is there anything I can do to help them or should I just leave them be? Currently they both look overwatered(which they arent), leaves very droopy. Any help would be greatly appreciated:leaf:
 
I transplanted a few weeks ago, but before the movement I water with superthrive (which helps with the stress).
my top sets of leaves went like claws, curled up under itself.
new growth is fine, I think yours will be fine aslong as you water when needed.
good luck
 
did you transplant them into someting with a smiliar ph level.....use litmus paper. cheap, reliable, easy to find.
 
It's always best to water them after any transplant, and place them in a dark area to recover from any heavy shock (root loss ect.)
 
DJ Redrum said:
It's always best to water them after any transplant, and place them in a dark area to recover from any heavy shock (root loss ect.)
Click to expand...
I did water them after the move, but i put them back in the grow room with lights,fan, etc all running. They've been on a 24/7 light schedule and I didn't want to change too much at once.
 
DJ Redrum said:
It's always best to water them after any transplant, and place them in a dark area to recover from any heavy shock (root loss ect.)
Click to expand...

Yep ^^^ Tp'ing is easiest done with soil dry, or almost dry. Wet soils tend to collapse if you're not careful, and sometimes, even if you are.

Smooth Tp's need only rest overnight . . . or none, keeping a close eye on the patient (for shock) thru the first few hours of hot, direct light/sun.
 
I never transplant because I always start my popped beans out right in the largest pot size I will use for that grow. I never use anything smaller than 5-gallons and normally will use 7-gallon pots.
　
Once a plant’s root begin to circle the pot the plant is then under a degree of stress and it will do nothing but increase until repotted into a larger pot. If the rootball has reached a root-bound condition you will need to slightly score it/cut it along the edges and the bottom, in several or more places. If not the roots will want to continue to circle and will not spread out and down anywhere near as fast as they would if the rootball is scored. Each cut root will then push out and spread out and down and that is what you want, as does the plant itself.
　
If you allow your plant’s roots to reach a root-bound condition there are a number of problems that can and likely will follow.



The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:


  1. Stunted Growth.
  2. Stretching.
  3. Smaller and slower bud production.
  4. Needs watering too often.
  5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
  6. Wilting.

For future reference .. when you repot follow the following steps.
　
Select the pot size you will be transplanting into. (I suggest growing in nothing smaller than 5-gallon pots and I normally use 7-gallon pots and I start out my plants in them and never repot.)
　
Allow the soil in the pot your plant is in to dry out and slightly pull away from the sides of the pot.
　
(The following applies if you are right handed. If not reverse the hand choice instructions)
　
Partially fill your new larger pot with quality soil so when you insert your plant into the new pot and fill in around the rootball the top of the soil will be at the correct level.
　
Pick up your old pot with your left hand.
　
Place your right hand on top of the soil with the main stem between your first and second fingers.
　
Gently tap the edge of the pot on a countertop or a workbench or something similar. The entire rootball should slide out in one piece, possibly with a slight amount of soil loss, but no damage to or loss of roots unless the plant was so root-bound that the roots had grown through the drain holes. If that is the case clip them first.
　
You plant and rootball are then securely held in your right hand. Inspect the rootball and if it is tightly packed/twisted/root-bound slightly score/cut the edges of the rootball and also slightly score/cut the bottom of the rootball. If you do not so that the roots will want to continue to follow their circling pattern and their growth progression both down and to the sides into the fresh deeper soil will be much slower. Each cut root will push out new roots and they will go both out and down into the new soil.
　
Place the plant into the new pot.
　
If the surface level of the old rootball is to low or to high remove some soil or add additional soil.
　
Next fill in around the edges between the rootball and the sides of the larger pot.
　
Water thoroughly to cause the soil to settle without compressing it too much by packing it down by hand. If needed add additional soil and water again.
　
Normally plants will undergo very little to no shock when transplanted in this manner but it would not be an injudicious thing to do to use a product like SuperThrive or something with the same general properties because they will reduce plant stress helping them to overcome it quicker and easier.
　
Good luck!
　

　




 
MrFishy said:
Yep ^^^ Tp'ing is easiest done with soil dry, or almost dry. Wet soils tend to collapse if you're not careful, and sometimes, even if you are.

Smooth Tp's need only rest overnight . . . or none, keeping a close eye on the patient (for shock) thru the first few hours of hot, direct light/sun.
Click to expand...
Is there anything that can be done to alleviate the stress or should I just leave them be?
 
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