plant problems **help**
- Thread starter moose88
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Woomeister
Well-Known Member
pics needed...
moose88
Well-Known Member
here are a few pictures let m eknow what to do what to get how much to put in etcc... it isnt burn from the lights i don thtink casue i have another plant higher then that one that onbe is fine not doing anyhting this one is doing
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Woomeister
Well-Known Member
Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Woomeister
Well-Known Member
You have potassium lock out, you need to flush!
Woomeister
Well-Known Member
thoroughly flush and remove necrotic leaves, by removing the leaves you are stopping the plant using vital energy trying to 'mend' itself.
Rocky Top High
Well-Known Member
I am not trying to bust your balls but for gosh sakes, have some patience. Flushing is a good start but it is not going to be the cure all of your problem. I have no idea what your Ph is and that can lead to lock out as well.
What nutes are you using? IF, it is in fact a P or K def, then I would suggest a supliment for your normal feeding schedule. PK 13/14 is a good one and I have just recently started using Hammerhead (PK 9/19) Again, not knowing your nutes or their NPK ratio, it's hard to determine.
Regardless of what your issue is, don't start changing 3 or 4 diffent things because you will never know what "fixed" your problem. Have patience and just use common sense. It will take 5-10 days once the proper action has been implimented before you see improvement. The damaged areas will not heal so remove any damaged areas that are more than 50-60% damaged.
Again, relax and be patient. Oh, one more thing, your temps could also be a factor in how your plant uses it's nutrients. Monitor that as well and keep it between 60-80 degrees farenhiet. Good luck
What nutes are you using? IF, it is in fact a P or K def, then I would suggest a supliment for your normal feeding schedule. PK 13/14 is a good one and I have just recently started using Hammerhead (PK 9/19) Again, not knowing your nutes or their NPK ratio, it's hard to determine.
Regardless of what your issue is, don't start changing 3 or 4 diffent things because you will never know what "fixed" your problem. Have patience and just use common sense. It will take 5-10 days once the proper action has been implimented before you see improvement. The damaged areas will not heal so remove any damaged areas that are more than 50-60% damaged.
Again, relax and be patient. Oh, one more thing, your temps could also be a factor in how your plant uses it's nutrients. Monitor that as well and keep it between 60-80 degrees farenhiet. Good luck
moose88
Well-Known Member
thank you i know patience is the crdinal rule of growing thry just are getting worse the nutes are in the post peruvian sea bird guano but i appriciate the input ill see what happens and keep updated also i want to switch to a liqid fert like ff three step ive read thqat changing ferts youll need to reduce serving size the first few time but do you think that this could ll be from using nutes that dont do well with the soil there in?..
moose88
Well-Known Member
update so i flushed again and alos repoted in ff ocean forest soil with perlite the plant has responded well seems that in conjuction that has solvved the deffeceny i will be using only ff soil from now on!! also otherplants that had the sam defficancy i repotted and flushed before hand have all gotten 100 percent better the last one i repotted today to see which fixed the problem and it was repotting it in ff so for any one who uses shit from wally world dont bother it will fuck your shit up!!!
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