Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by TimeToBurn, May 22, 2015.
So my fixture is now 1m x 1m in a 1.2 x 1.2
♫ Who ya gonna call? ROUGH BASTARDS! ♫
Took a FLIR picture of the 2x5000K ledstrip fixture I posted yesterday:
Aluminium frame is about 25C and the SMD's get up to 46C. I get the idea that the heat is not transferring well from the strips to the frame. With the TCI stips I had much less of a difference between PCB and aluminium (the alu gets much hotter there). But then those strips are twice as wide for the same number of watts.
I didn't add any thermal paste between strips and aluminium, because with the TCI strips this didn't seem to make a real difference (2C cooler at best). Perhaps these narrower Samsung strips would benefit from thermal paste?
Although the SMD's on the TCI strips go up to 50C. So the Samsung strip SMD's are actually running cooler.
I have two years ago's new hotness in my tent, a pair of Gen 7 Vero 29 COBs at 4000K some nice pin heatsinks from the ole Northern Grow Lights and the pricy AF Ledil reflectors. It lacks very much red but gets the job done. I took it down tonight to add a new feature to it so I grabbed some images.
What's that kajigger on the bottom? Well to solve my red problem I just added 10x CREE XP-E HE Photo Red diodes stuck onto a 25mmx10mm heatsink. DRAGON MODE ACTIVATE
I added a switch so I can turn the red LEDs off when I don't need them. I've been considering doing a new light with Bridgelux EB Gen 2 strips and having 5 strips on at all times and 4 strips on a switch like this. That way I can do like 4x 5000K + 1x 3000K, then switch on 4x more 3000K to get more red for blooms and fruits. All done with one driver, although the dimming is ganged to a single 3-in-1 dim circuit. I haven't seen any builds that have a switch to disable strips to change color temperature, any reason why that's not more popular?
I used the double row Samsung strips with Thermal compound (buy a toothpaste sized tube). Strips and heat sinks get about equally warm. When the room is up to temperature the strips run approximately 20C warmer (about 50C) going by touch.
3000 k..and 5000k
Are these the 800 diodes boards, 16s50p?
6" x 22" 560 diode..
Was 110F degrees in the shade today, lights survived and are still going.
Gave the plants a silica treatment before the heatwave and they just ticked right through.
Foliar or feed?
Used it as a pH up. So about a 3rd of the recommended dose.
Good to know. Never hurts to have a backup plan for a heatwave.
400w vero 29C
200w vero 29c
Working on a ip rated sammy strip build next
Nice lights @key4
Do you have price list?
The new black framework with blue heatsinks look even better.
Latest creation. 200w QB288 fixture with a sonoff wifi controller and bayite power monitor. I'm pretty happy with it!
Some cxm rails and vero panals
kelly is that you?!
I thought you guys might get a kick out of this. The winter did a real number on my hydrangea and it looked like it wasn't going to last so I brought it inside and rigged up a little "veg light" for it. It is the CREE horticulture reference design LEDs with 9x 4000K XP-G3 and 3x 660nm XP-E Photo Red. I had a few 25x10x300mm heatsinks so I stuck them to that with some pieces of thermal tape, 3D printed some heatsink mounts, and strapped the ends to a piece of 1/2"x1/2"x1/16" aluminum angle. From there it got decidedly ghetto as the only power supply I had sitting around was 12V and a way overpowered 300W boost converter. While I was at it, I added on a DC voltage and current meter, wrapped the plant in some reflectix mylar bubble insulation for a little reflection, and added a 80mm computer fan to aid in transpiration (the leaves were showing droplets of moisture). The whole thing hangs on some bungee cords on a quick PVC frame.
I think I have some sort of LED addiction problem. Put them on all the things.
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