Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

jeepster1993

jeepster1993

Well-Known Member
This is my 250 watter.
Built 3 years ago and several successful grows with it.
Cree CXB 3590's(3500k) running at 50 watts each, in a 5 square foot tent. That is Gelato 33.
It is a killer setup.
IMG-3346.JPG
 
SMT69

SMT69

Well-Known Member
wow super nice setups in here.....

here's my humble f strip build, these are very easy to build, everything is pretty much plug n play

14 x samsung f562b single row strips 3000K
1" Wide Extruded Aluminum Heatsink for each 1
meanwell 480h-24b driver
1" pvc frame diy

currently run in a 2'x4' tent @ 350w about 20" up
so light i can pick it up one hand


flower tent 2x4







and the veg tent 2'x3'x6'

4X samsung Quantum boards QB120 4000k
meanwell 240h-c2100b
no heat sinks needed even full up at 250w
mounted on pvc frame, also super light






 
Last edited:
SMT69

SMT69

Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if its better running these a little lower power and closer to the plants is better, or higher up like ive gottem (20") and crank um up...?.

thoughts ?

I mean do i run 30w a sq ft at say 12" or go 45w sq ft at 20" .......etc
 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
SMT69 said:
I'm wondering if its better running these a little lower power and closer to the plants is better, or higher up like ive gottem (20") and crank um up...?.

thoughts ?

I mean do i run 30w a sq ft at say 12" or go 45w sq ft at 20" .......etc
Click to expand...
20000 lux
 
jeepster1993

jeepster1993

Well-Known Member
This my 320 watter.
Home made, it looks it.
About 3 years old now. It has grown a lot of dank. In a 3x3 tent.
6 Cree CXB 3590(3500k) running at about 55 watts each(320 watts total on a meanwell driver). When I bought the parts...I ordered much larger heatsinks than I really needed. But they work.
Island sweet skunk being grown it it now, these are 33 days from seed.
IMG-3378.JPG
 
rotten chestnut

rotten chestnut

Member
My ghetto diy ~250W cob setup in 3x3 tent.
5x3500k vero gen 7 cobs with meanwell drivers running at 1.4A and alpine cpu coolers.

It's only been a couple weeks since I replaced my cree cbx 3070 as I had only just realized that 70-80% of the bulbs had burned out due to sub par cooling.
Only did one grow with the crees a few years ago, and I failed to realize that the cobs were basically dead when I started my second grow with autos this summer. The lights were changed a few weeks into flowering so it's looking like the plants are almost a lost cause.

It should have clicked with me sooner that the plants were growing slowly, but I never thought to look directly at the lights =/
The new veros are supposed to be better than crees I had, so hopefully I'll have more success with my next grow.
 

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led1k

led1k

Well-Known Member
iAmGrimReefer said:
32 560mm gen 2 bridgelux strips, 2 35k for every 1 5k. 4 hlg 240-1400's running it balls to the wall.
Click to expand...
I just got 15 of the same strip. Waiting for the HLG-320H-20B. What spacing are you using?
Edit: post showed red x's but they show now? Oh...
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
It has been a while since I built my 14 - Citizen 1212 3500K cri 90 fixture. I have done 6 grows with them and overall the results are very good. I use some 730 nm reds to initiate flower running them 15 minutes at lights off. One thing I noticed especially the last 3 grows is that the internodal length is too long. So I have decided I want to add some more blue light to my spectrum to see if that will shorten the internode space a little. So I copied RapidLed who copied the CobShop's light form. It uses a 140 mm pin heat sink, a Citizen Royal Blue COB CLU048-1212CF-B455 and a Meanwell HBG-60-1050 driver. I built two of them. I plan on using them until the end of stretch.

Blue1.jpg Blue2.jpg Blue3.jpg
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.
 
randydj

randydj

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.
Click to expand...
4 - 3 watt 730 nm SemiLeds in 24 SQ FT Meanwell LDD-700H. I think I did all of the calculations back when I built the light but I have slept since then. The Citizen 1212 3500K cri 90 is a little weak on blue and I wanted to add some anyhow. I think it will be fun to see what happens. If it ends up being too much blue? I can just put a white cob on one of them easy peasy.
 
T-Time

T-Time

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.
Click to expand...
Learn something new every day. Thanks Randomblame !
 
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